Some googling led me here: https://www.3riversarchery.com/nitrocellulose-adhesive-fletching-glue.html There is also a German brand, UHU, which offers a few formulas. UHU Hart was recommended. I've als

Humbrol offers a "balsa" cement, which seems very similar to the old Ambroid. I've not used it much yet. My furniture making has used a CA, Titebond and Gorilla glue, depending on application. I'd exp

I can only speculate about their mindset, but speaking as an engineer who has faced the hydrostatic vs. rolling element bearing issue in his own career in aerospace and turbomachinery, I suspect there

I grew up north of Philly, Buck's county. Snow on the ground was common then (80s, 90s) less so these days (family still there days so). Perhaps moreso than Newark But I think a snowless February is p

This is speculation, but i wonder if icing up was less of a problem with bottom operated couplers. Steve

I thought the Chicago Cleveland radial was a round design, not peaked, while the Viking was a peaked roof. It's a different design, not just the same thing under 2 names. Steve

Look at the Rock Island boxcar - those rippled sides would be right up Pierre @ Yarmouth's alley... I don't think I've seen a prototype shot with such clear ripples, actually, not at a distance anyway

I've used a similar technique on a resin deck, except starting with a light grey base. Weathered wood often appears grey or silverish. I used browns and tans over it, then a unifying wash of black. As

I suppose one could etch a simple L with the holes. Design it for one peaked roof, file it to match the radial roof if needed. Then use a short stub of styrene to support the center of the L, under th

That looks like one of the Soos centered door boxcars - which I thought were used almost entirely for loading huge rolls of paper. ( The doors weren't offset to the left like most double door cars. )

Fair point Tony. We are likely straying off topic, so I'll be brief - there are shades of grey. Known was perhaps not fair for that particular case, "suspect" perhaps. We aero guts usually view it as

I guess I'd take a bit of the other view. Truss rods worked just fine for decades, so I don't see a well maintained truss rod car as putting workers at risk, especially in limited service as Larry poi

Smokebox did decals for the orange one. http://smokeboxgraphics.com/decalspre2k.html The instructions cover some of that info I think. Stephan

It's not ideal, but the conversions 3.5 mm =12 inch and .011 = 1 inch are carried around in my head, for use with my various digital and dial calipers.

Loudspeakers are often stuffed with fibrous batting. Crutchfield, for one, sells it. I'm sure others do too. I'd expect cotton or wool to serve, cheaply, and not degrade for a few decades. Steve

I should Google more and spout off less. https://www.micromark.com/High-Precision-Micro-Pin-Vise That's the one. Steve

I bought several over the years. Eventually I gave up and dropped the cash for the Starretts. And they are fantastic. I do have one other that is great, a very small one that only open up to about .02

I'm pretty confident McMaster Carr has what you want, for a reasonable price.

Oh, interesting. The ones I have aren't a loop. The are an open end, more like your needle. Allows me to reach in and drop a dot of CA right around the grab wire just above where it enters the hole. T

They offer a number of different tools for folding and forming photoetched parts. I think the also offer etched tools for applying CA, which are well worth the money. Steve