Testors liquid sparingly with a 10/0 brush. After application I blow on the joint. After curing overnight, I come back with dull knife blade and test the joints. Bill Welch

Uh oh, somebody needs to get busy. . . Model on Ya'll Bill Welch

It might Mont, certainly would not hurt to try. Bill Welch

Okay, here is my plan: —Measure the interior width with Digital Caliper —Take the measure to Home Depot and ask them to cut a scrap of wood to that width to fit into the body cavity to prevent the sty

This is what I have done: Cut 0.005" styrene sheet into strips scale 3" wide. This is the base that is glued (carefully too much will distort this thin styrene) and let it cure over night. Next carefu

I have pretty much completed building a model of one of the SP's G50-15 GS gons using the Detail Associates kit. The G50-15 was the initial group built with the flat plate ends with two rib stiffeners

Dave obviously the model is already built and I am not going to disassemble it and start over. It is a compromise I am willing to live with on this model. In the past I have scratch built board x boar

Using a photo of Rutland stock car #1960 to guide me I have detailed and damaged this F&C kit. So that I could damage the upper boards I substituted styrene strip of the same size—hopefully avoiding N

Over the years three models have been done of the CN's 7-panel Howe Truss Boxcars—F&C ()originally Steam Shack I think), Sylvan, and Kaslo Shops. I am interested in trying to understand built dates an

Bob's Photo has a Col. Chet McCoid photo of L&N #25158 in service. I had a modeling article in the L&N's Historical Society magazine 2-3 years ago that is probably still available from them. Speedwitc

Here are my Z-Bars made with 0.005 styrene as part of Wine Locking Mechanism for my MEC GS gon model from F&C, originally a Yankee Clipper kit. Phase One is forming one bend around 2 x 2 strip styrene

"With a bit of trepidation. . ." Bob, glad to see you are not cowed by comments from some who have never shared photos of their modeling thus conveintly avoiding scrutiny. I like your weathering "acci

Thank you Al for bringing the discussion back to the topic. I have no reason to believe Rutland stock cars were painted any differently than their boxcars—Oxide Red it will be. Bill Welch

I start with .010 brass with and flatten whatever length I visualize I need to form the handle with Chain Nose Pliers little bit by little bit. Then I use Needle Nose Pliers to further try to flatten

The Boys at the Clearwater Car Shops broke out their Stynylrez Neutral Yellow primer yesterday and here are the results. Many harvested rivets and even more Archer Rivet decals. Ladder have .010 rungs

I am preparing to paint my F&C Rutland Stock Car and I am hoping someone here familiar with that RR's practice can comment on what color was used on their Boxcars and Stock Cars? I am not interested i

I think the key word there Tim is "knowingly." I had no idea you thought so little of me that you think I would do that. Bill Welch

Just the messenger Dennis, just the messenger. Bill Welch

A friend on Facebook found this resource and posted the link for it: http://sld-nmra.ca/freight_car/ref_material/braking_trains.pdf?fbclid=IwAR17qjVSUv_iuhFYt7PPsxfB0s2i-9GHQp-78PG96-tDDnc418RvfpzCIko

I have long found it ironic that the slippery plastic used for CA tips seems to be the only slippery plastic CA will adhere to. Bill Welch