Group, I went to the train shop recently and bought some kits, this is one of those kits. I believe Prototype Modeler was involved with this wood kit, but I looked through the TrainLife archives and c

Ken, One of the sources did send photos of SP&S cars with AB brakes on them. But I don't know if he wants me to upload them here. The photos are from the SP&S Color Guide.

Colin, I bought Tichy flatcar decals months ago. I was planning on using those. I personally haven't got around to using any Tichy decals yet but I've read that they're thick? I don't think that'll be

I apologize for bumping an old thread and responding late. Thank you everyone for the photos both in this thread and the ones that PMed me information. Anyway regarding the SP&S car, I've done work wi

Hello, I've been looking for photos of NC&StL and SP&S 41' flatcar ends but I couldn't find any. I've been working on the Tichy 41' flatcar kit with plans of turning it into an SP&S prototype. Issue i

The DL&W boxcar is part of number series 45000-45999. The cars were built in 1925 with vertical brakes, Hutchins roof, and K brake. There is a photo of how they looked pre-WWII on the STMFC website (h

I'm glad the Red Caboose (Intermountain) X29s are a thing. I wish Intermountain made more of them. Unbuilt kits all over the place are also good.

Thanks everyone. I do have plans to redo the car due to my errors and me scraping off rivets that didn't belong on the prototype. Has anyone here ever made their own hatch platforms for these cars? A

Hello, I currently have a Walthers GACX express reefer that I was doing some modifications to match it with the PFE prototype. The problem is I got carried away and damaged the paint and some of the w

It looks like it could be a lever related to the brake. The car is early 1900s, so it COULD be related to the brake. Somebody here may have a better the answer.

Eric, That's a lot of good information. Thank you for that. I wasn't even aware that the underbody was different from a typical PRR X29. And the part about the extra lever really answered the black pa

And just to add to this topic, here's the boxcar I've been working on. This was one of the first models I bought brand new and unopened (in 2018, as weird as it sounds) at a train shop in Spring, Texa

Hey everyone, For over two years (blame a mix of jumping from project to project and plain laziness) I've been working on an X29 class boxcar kit made by Red Caboose in the WLE scheme. I've been doing

Hey everyone, I looked at photos of various PFE reefers from the mid 1930s and onward which contain these boxes with lettering in them. What information is put into these boxes and why do they change

I was mainly confused due to seeing prototype photos with a "reweigh" date taken before photos (don't have any example photos, sorry) and I kept assuming tankers were treated the same as other freight

Hello everyone, With the release of Tangent's new run of 8000 gallon 1917-design tankers, I was interested in something that got me confused months before. So I was reading on Tony Thompson's blog reg

Thanks everyone for your responses, they are very helpful. If the kit is still at my LHS, then I may get it. The general stock car practices are also useful. -Ray

René, As somebody that also has the Accurail 4300 body and have plans of turning that into a C&S prototype, this is some very good modeling. This will also be a useful guide for me. I haven't got far

Hello, I'm curious about something about the Proto 2000 stock car that I'm interested in buying from my LHS. So most of the models seem to be painted and modeled after WWII. What modifications can I m

I also have Accurail 4300 series that I'm going to turn into a CB&Q prototype. I've been slowly removing molded-on grabs and other details that don't fit with the prototype. I hope to see your own bui