Tulle cloth (or ribbon). Square weave for hog wire or field fence, diamond for chain link. I dye it using Rit and then then cut it to size and then dip it in thinned matte poly if I want it to be stif

Westerfield instruction sheets rarely show car end data, no matter the era, even in as-built lettering. No help there. Perusing all the Focus on Freight Cars books (images are 1930's) and the Steam Er

Many of the decal sets for resin car kits include "Car End Data", stuff like 'Coupler End Shank 6x8', 'K-2 Triple Valve', 'Friction Draft Gear', 'Cast Steel Yoke', etc.. I see many proto pictures with

Yep, we've all been there. Better pics or info come out after the car is done, and it will always bug you until addressed (well, it does me at least). You did a really nice save. RJ Dial Burlingame, C

I have 6 of Martin's kits in the stash and are targeted for a 2020 start, so close up detail pics like this are greatly appreciated Garth. RJ Dial Burlingame, CA

Southern-grown watermelons. Real thick rind (made great watermelon pickles) deep red juicy flesh with lots of black seeds. Weighed a ton, but shipped and stored well. Fell out of favor in the early 19

Ryan, thanks for this very good explanation. I reread it 3 times. I've been monitoring 3D printing with interest for about 3 years now, looking to move past having shapeways print my small detail part

Meant to include the lineage of the plaster car photo in the original post but hit send just as I remembered. Was hoping Fred Jansz was going to chime in and he didn't disappoint. As for the old SN an

We've discussed the Single Sheath boxcars over on the WP Modelers FB site a couple of times. Bill Kennedy has decals that cover the 26000 series with the proper medallion. Here is an image of the cars

Aaron, that is one good looking gondola. Is that the Westerfield G22 twin-pak flat-Pack version? I'm keeping your pictures for reference for when I build mine. RJ Dial Burlingame, CA

Huh? Gotta love it. What's a poor modeler to do. Step 23 of the Owl Mountain SP F-50 flatcar instructions says "Paint Specs called for SP Flatcars to have decks painted flatcar red". The instructions

Dennis, you can see the crossbearers? All I can see is black! Except for the Truss Rod underframe, which also looks fun to do. The Tichy underframe is $3.39 ea, so will use those. Bob, I searched all

2 last questions before I get started on kitbashing. The Mainstreeter stock car article reflects different ends than the PFE reefer end, was that because of the extra bracing the open-sided stock car

So you don't think I'm like my grandmother, sweet lady, but she would always leave out some part of a recipe she was asked to share. I forgot to mention that one needs to really gouge up the surface f

The Airhose bracket on the SSW is rubber Hi-Techs and the DL&W is plastic Kadee with those crappy flimsy hoses replaced with black wire. As for the deck, that is a strong point of the Tichys. Attached

This sounds interesting and a way to salvage these beautiful looking paint jobs. Andy, when you say narrow the roof by 1/8", do you mean remove the running board and split the roof under the running b

Couple of pics of the SSW and Lackawanna versions I made. I recall the RMJ article and pics was important as it covered body color, trucks and uncoupling devices. I included a closeup showing the Tich

I checked my large supply of LEDs. Would work for a flat car. The longest leads are still waaay too short for a boxcar. I also had bought some of that .024 Nickel Silver beading wire wrap awhile back,

You definitely want to read the RMJ article before proceeding. Use that last link from Eric. If still doesn't work i can send a PDF. I built 3 that required little modification (SP&S, NC&StL, SSW). Tu

Interesting. The Monad was in use in 1931? Man, I've had to discard the Monad decals on all the NP Boxcars I've built (1939) per the Sunshine data sheets, and you tell me that the reefers had it all t