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Car Weight, scales and pennies
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CBarkan@...
OK, so how much does it "cost" to weight a typical car per NMRA recommended
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practice? Put another weigh, how much does each penny way? C In a message dated 4/13/03 7:58:50 AM, omnibus@... writes:
<< And the pennies do work; just add pennies to the scale until the desired weight is reached. Divide into two piles, one above each truck.>> |
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Peter Weiglin <omnibus@...>
--- In STMFC@..., "Steven Delibert" <stevdel@p...> wrote:
----- Original Message -----something measuring, or an even cheaper home-office type postal scale from the "5-and-dime" (hah!) work just fine for these purposes. = = = Yup. Nothing fancy is needed. I have an old one-pound maximum, non-digital, postal scale. How old? Shows a one-ounce stamp as 29 cents. Office Depot has its 37-cent successor for $7.99. And the pennies do work; just add pennies to the scale until the desired weight is reached. Divide into two piles, one above each truck. Peter Weiglin San Mateo, CA |
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Dave Nelson <muskoka@...>
IIRC, a tiny bit less than 1/10th of an ounce. I stick mine together with
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silicone caulk, making sure there is a smear of caulk somewhere on the outside edge (I keep a pile of these in my toolkit in 3 or 5 high bundles) and then depending on what's on hand when I do it either double sided tape or (more often) caulk to afix them to the car. Dave Nelson -----Original Message----- |
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Don Valentine
My experience with silicone caulking materials has been that they dry
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out faster than a rubber based cement such as Walthers Goo. That being said, what has your experience been, Dave, and how many of your "penny piles" have you had break loose in a car on you? One would think the double sided tape might be the best solution of the three materials. Take care, Don Valentine Quoting Dave Nelson <muskoka@...>: IIRC, a tiny bit less than 1/10th of an ounce. I stick mine together |
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Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
My favorite caulk is DAP. It adheres to anything, and once dry it
seems to be permanent. I've never had a weight break loose once it was glued with a generous dollop of DAP. My experience with silicone caulking materials has been that they dry Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...> Sterling, Massachusetts |
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Dave Nelson <muskoka@...>
None so far but it sounds from your comments that it may just be matter of
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time. 8-( I avoid goo/contact cement because I'm allergic to it and you've got to be careful to let it out-gas the solvent before doing the join -- too easy to be impatient. Have you another alternative to suggest? Dave Nelson -----Original Message----- |
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Jim or Lisa Hayes <jim-and-lisa@...>
After having both stick-on weights and an epoxied weight come loose after
several years, I switched to silicone caulk and have had no problems since. I also looked at why those weights came loose and decided it was the application as much as the adhesives. The inside of most resin floors is almost as smooth as glass giving any adhesive nothing much to grab on to. I've started sanding the inside surface with rough sandpaper to give some tooth to it. I think it will help. -- Jim Hayes Portland Oregon |
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C J Wyatt
After having both stick-on weights and an epoxied weight come loose aftersince. I also looked at why those weights came loose and decided it was theI think you are right about surface preparation, but for what it's worth, my standard is to mechanical attach the weights as well as use adhesive. My weights are 5/8' brass nuts, which of course are non-magnetic. Certain stainless steel alloys are also non-magnetic. When I'm drilling holes for the truck screws, I also drill two holes 0.200" closer to the center between the center sills and tap them. I first use epoxy to attach the nut, centering it on the screw hole. Then I use a "0.100" styrene strip with a clearance hole in the center as a crosspiece to hold the nut in place, and a 3/4" screw to hold it all down. This is not as cheap as pennies, but I don't have to worry about having the weights come lose. Jack Wyatt |
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