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lead shot
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Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Schuyler Larrabee wrote:
I ain't taking chances. There are other easier,I'm not very interested in opinions, Schuyler, just facts. The ones I cited can be looked up in handbooks. Where one would look up "opinions" I'm not sure. I too have no interest in taking chances. It would be idiotic to do so. But I'd prefer to know what IS a chance, and what isn't. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history |
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Schuyler Larrabee
Well, I DO have clean hogs . . . 8^)
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I ain't taking chances. There are other easier, better methods. And there are other opinions about lead in vapor form from melted lead. SGL -----Original Message-----[mailto:thompson@...] Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 3:14 AMis TOXIC. Eats your you've been working withbrain. Sure you can wash your hands after through the skin, itit, but that's not sufficient. It's absorbed melt it, as some haveemits vapors from being handled, and if you vapors aresuggested for lost-plaster casting, it's absorbed directlycutting it gets intothrough your lungs. Lead dust from filing and doesn't go away.your body via lungs, mouth, and skin. And it pressure, even inOnce it, it ain't coming out.This is mostly hogwash. Lead's vapor the liquid state, is remarkably small and leadvapor is most certainly NOT a danger. It does NOT emit vaporas a solid. Lead compounds can in some cases be absorbed bythe skin, but metallic lead is not dangerous in that way. Theone real danger in this list is lead dust from filing,which is dangerous to ingest. I fully support warningsabout dangerous aspects of modeling, but this one "ain't comingout" correctly. Press, Berkeley, CA 2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail,on railroad history yours for only $14.70http://us.click.yahoo.com/Z1wmxD/DREIAA/yQLSAA/9Mt olB/TM -------------------------------------------------- ------------ ------~-> |
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Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Let's go easy on all this lead business. It isThis is mostly hogwash. Lead's vapor pressure, even in the liquid state, is remarkably small and lead vapor is most certainly NOT a danger. It does NOT emit vapor as a solid. Lead compounds can in some cases be absorbed by the skin, but metallic lead is not dangerous in that way. The one real danger in this list is lead dust from filing, which is dangerous to ingest. I fully support warnings about dangerous aspects of modeling, but this one "ain't coming out" correctly. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history |
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Schuyler Larrabee
-----Original Message-----to replace the slope sheet weights on some hoppers with leadsheet. I found it difficult to cut to any specific shapeaccurately. Hey, Gize! Let's go easy on all this lead business. It is TOXIC. Eats your brain. Sure you can wash your hands after you've been working with it, but that's not sufficient. It's absorbed through the skin, it emits vapors from being handled, and if you melt it, as some have suggested for lost-plaster casting, it's vapors are absorbed directly through your lungs. Lead dust from filing and cutting it gets into your body via lungs, mouth, and skin. And it doesn't go away. Once it, it ain't coming out. Making slope sheets from sheet lead isn't really worth it, gains about 0.5 oz. (I know, I have done it.) Much better to buy the already-cast weights available on the market. I know about weights available from REBOXX (yep, I know them personally, but financial benefit to me? Not a chance!) and I know there is at least one other supplier out there with a large range of shapes and sizes. Ned, if you really wanna get that lead cut to the right shape, the most effective way to cut it is with a knife. But I certainly don't do that any more. SGL |
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Schuyler Larrabee
-----Original Message-----[mailto:s.holding@...] Works great for casting aREBOXX sells these in several diffferent styles for the more popular models. SGL |
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Richard Hendrickson
Ned Carey asks:
Scissors, as suggested by Andy Miller, cause the lead to curl and get all bent out of shape. I prefer to use a straight edge and score the lead with a stout X-Acto knife blade. Two or three strokes with the blade will cut through the lead. Or you can make a template out of heavy styrene sheet and score around it. Richard H. Hendrickson Ashland, Oregon 97520 |
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Don Valentine
Quoting Ned Carey <nedcarey@...>:
Duck billed aviation shears will probably work as well as anything.get plain sheet lead flashing . . .Whats the best way to cut lead sheet. I wanted to replace the slope Any store carrying Stanley Tools should have them. Don Valentine |
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Andy Miller <asmiller@...>
Scissors or, if its really thick, tin snips.
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Regards, Andy Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: Ned Carey [mailto:nedcarey@...] Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 1:02 PM To: STMFC@... Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re:lead shot get plain sheet lead flashing . . .Whats the best way to cut lead sheet. I wanted to replace the slope sheet weights on some hoppers with lead sheet. I found it dificult to cut to any specific shape accurately. Ned Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Ned Carey <nedcarey@...>
get plain sheet lead flashing . . .Whats the best way to cut lead sheet. I wanted to replace the slope sheet weights on some hoppers with lead sheet. I found it dificult to cut to any specific shape accurately. Ned |
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Don Valentine
Quoting Steven Holding <s.holding@...>:
For easy sheet lead to add to floors. I get a lead vent stack flange That's too much like work! Can't you get plain sheet lead flashing material in a roll? Roll out a bit and cut off what you need. If Home Depot is selling lead vent stack flanges instead of the aluminum and rubber ones that everyone else has sold for nearly twenty years it would seem they would have such flashing as well. Will try to check with my "local" Home Depot....which is 80 miles away! Don Valentine |
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Steven Holding <s.holding@...>
For easy sheet lead to add to floors. I get a lead vent stack flange from Home Depot and use a hobby knife to cut it up and an old bottle to roll it out flat.
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Get old tire weights and use a torch to melt them down. Use modeling clay wrapped in saran wrap forced into the cavity of a car and make a plaster mold. WOrks great for casting a weight for between the bays of a hopper car. Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Howard R Garner To: STMFC@... Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 5:35 PM Subject: [STMFC] Re:lead shot >I just got a reply from a gun collector friend. Number 8 shot is used for >shooting skeet and should be available at Wal-Mart and any shop that sells >reloading supplies. There is also 8.5 and 9 shot and something he refers to as >"dust." >All of this is cheaper in quantity than through a hobby supply. The same is >true of the stick on weights. I buy mine at a car parts store. Much >cheaper. > > > 25 pounds of #9 shot was $16.99 at the local sporting goods store last fall. Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/ b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: STMFC-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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Jon Miller <atsf@...>
Also don't forget lead wool.<The only problem here in CA it's easier to get lead by walking certain cities at night than it is to buy it in a store<G>. Jon Miller AT&SF For me time has stopped in 1941 Digitrax, Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI user NMRA Life member #2623 Member SFRH&MS |
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Steve Sandifer <jssand@...>
Also don't forget lead wood. It is like steel wool - small strings - but of lead. A good plumbing supply has it. This is useful for compacting into places like the underside of flat cars. Once shaped and packed, a little super glue will hold it forever.
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----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer mailto:steve.sandifer@... Home: 12027 Mulholland Dr., Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918 Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417 Personal: http://users2.ev1.net/~jssand/index.htm Church: http://www.swcentral.org Railway: http://www.trainweb.org/jssand Webmaster: http://www.ATSFRR.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Howard R Garner To: STMFC@... Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 5:35 PM Subject: [STMFC] Re:lead shot >I just got a reply from a gun collector friend. Number 8 shot is used for >shooting skeet and should be available at Wal-Mart and any shop that sells >reloading supplies. There is also 8.5 and 9 shot and something he refers to as >"dust." >All of this is cheaper in quantity than through a hobby supply. The same is >true of the stick on weights. I buy mine at a car parts store. Much >cheaper. > > > 25 pounds of #9 shot was $16.99 at the local sporting goods store last fall. Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/ b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: STMFC-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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earlyrail
I just got a reply from a gun collector friend. Number 8 shot is used for shooting skeet and should be available at Wal-Mart and any shop that sells reloading supplies. There is also 8.5 and 9 shot and something he refers to as "dust." All of this is cheaper in quantity than through a hobby supply. The same is true of the stick on weights. I buy mine at a car parts store. Much cheaper.25 pounds of #9 shot was $16.99 at the local sporting goods store last fall. |
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