A long time back, I purchased a couple of brass freight car models which some bozo had performed expedient repairs of broken solder joints with Super Glue or some other ACC. There are some spots of glue on the paint, but even worse, in one place sufficient glue was used to fill a cavity and the head of a tiny Phillips head screw. I suspect the underframe may be glued to the body in places as well. And of course the repairs didn't even last! Since I'd like to remove the underframe to properly re-solder the detached parts, I need to get that screw out. Is there a chemical solvent or de-bonder that might assist my job. I'd prefer to avoid drilling the screw out. Thanks in advance.

Kind regards, Rob Adams

Super Glue or some other ACC<

The debonder sold in the same rack (at your LHS) as ACC seem to work
well.

Jon Miller
AT&SF
For me time has stopped in 1941
Digitrax, Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI user
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS

Jim or Lisa Hayes wrote:

There are "super Solvents" available in the ACC section of your hobby shop.
I think it's basically nail polish remover.
Jim Hayes
Portland OR

Acetone is the active ingredient IIRC.

Safe on brass, but don't try it on resin, which it disolves much better than it does ACC.

Adam

There are "super Solvents" available in the ACC section of your hobby shop.
I think it's basically nail polish remover.

Jim Hayes
Portland OR

Gents;

Thanks to all for your help with this. I tried Acetone and also my daughter's nail polish remover to no avail. This was just one of those deals where it was too smurfed up to recover. Perhaps if I'd tried to disolve it before mangling up the screw head. Drilled it out, then used an Exacto with a chisel blade to break the glued joint along the body - underframe joint. It put up quite a fight. At least it is apart. I may try to gently remove the spots on the paint, but I suspect it will take whats underneath as well. Probably time for a bath in MEK.

I've come to the conclusion that Super Glue should only be sold to professional modelers for assembling resin kits and other limited uses. As we know, it is not a cure-all for every detached component in the universe. I spent two hours yesterday cleaning ACC residue out of cold solder joints on a brass steamer so I could spend five minutes with the resistance soldering unit to fix them the right way. Maddening.

Enough of my rant. Thanks again for your help.

Best regards, Rob Adams

Jim or Lisa Hayes wrote:

Rob,

Superglue doesn't stand up well to "extreme" heat or cold, putting the cars
in the freezer for the day will probably make the bonds so brittle they will
break or shatter.

Joe Tucker

Joe Tucker wrote:
Superglue doesn't stand up well to "extreme" heat or cold, putting the cars
in the freezer for the day will probably make the bonds so brittle they will
break or shatter.

Actually, the CA bond is brittle by nature. What causes "sproing" (coined
by Tim O'Connor in describing this effect as applied to photoetched running
boards attached with CA) is expansion or contraction of the bonded
materials.


Ben Hom

--- In STMFC@..., Rob Adams <steamera@n...> wrote:

Gents;

Thanks to all for your help with this. I tried Acetone and also my
daughter's nail polish remover to no avail. This was just one of those
deals where it was too smurfed up to recover. Perhaps if I'd tried to
disolve it before mangling up the screw head. Drilled it out, then
used an Exacto with a chisel blade to break the glued joint along the
body - underframe joint. It put up quite a fight. At least it is
apart. I may try to gently remove the spots on the paint, but I

suspect

it will take whats underneath as well. Probably time for a bath in

MEK.

I've come to the conclusion that Super Glue should only be sold to
professional modelers for assembling resin kits and other limited

uses.

As we know, it is not a cure-all for every detached component in the
universe. I spent two hours yesterday cleaning ACC residue out of cold
solder joints on a brass steamer so I could spend five minutes with the
resistance soldering unit to fix them the right way. Maddening.

Enough of my rant. Thanks again for your help.

Best regards, Rob Adams

Rob-

It sounds like you already know this, but I'll state it again, just on
the off chance some member of this list doesn't know - - Don't EVER
solder (either torch or resistance) anywhere near ACC. The vapors are
really nasty. My one learning experience left me with a cough that
took about three weeks to stop.

Walter M. Clark
Time stopped in November 1941
Riverside, California
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