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decaling Westerfield models
I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What decal
setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals. I have Solvaset, Champ setting solution, and Microscale,both Micro sol and Micro Set, setting solutions. Thanks in advance Brian carlson
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Richard Hendrickson
I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What decalBrian, the Rail Graphics decals included in Westerfield kits aren't especially fragile (unlike older Microscale decals, which tend to disintegrate if you even look cross-eyed at them), though all decals need to be handled carefully, of course. In my experience, all of the setting fluids you identify will work, but you want to be careful with full strength Champ decal set, as it's the most potent of the lot. I usually use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with water first, which should get everything settled in place, and then go back with full strength Champ used sparingly to get rid of bumps and bubbles. But I've also used Solvaset and Micro-Sol/Micro-Set in the past with good results. Richard H. Hendrickson Ashland, Oregon 97520
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Ted Culotta <tculotta@...>
On Dec 19, 2004, at 4:53 PM, Richard Hendrickson wrote:
Brian:I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What decal>setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals. I have In addition to Richard's comments. one thing I do that eliminates any marring of the decals is to not add setting solution until after the decals have dried completely. Then, I just touch the edges of the decals with a brush with the solution. The solution runs under the decals. Once this application has dried completely, I then go back and really bathe them in solution. At that point, they are affixed pretty well except for bubbles that need to be pierced or cut. I use full strength Champ with this approach and have not had issues. Regards, Ted Culotta Speedwitch Media 100 14th Avenue, San Mateo, CA 94402 info@... www.speedwitch.com (650) 787-1912
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Schuyler Larrabee
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-----Original Message-----I bet Richard left out the word "distilled," as in "distilled water" because regular tap water has lots of salts and other crud in it which will show up on your model as water spots. So, to a degree, will the glue on the decal, but nowhere as much. Distilled water is available at the grocery store and at stores like CVS. Cheap too. SGL
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Richard Hendrickson
From Schuyler Larrabee:
Schuyler's point is well taken, though I don't personally bother with-----Original Message-----I bet Richard left out the word "distilled," as in "distilled water" because distilled water. I use tap water with no problem because Ashland city water is very good to start with and we have a whole-house filter that removes what few impurities there might be in it. However, tap water in many locations might cause problems and distilled water is, as Schuyler says, inexpensive and readily available. Richard H. Hendrickson Ashland, Oregon 97520
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Richard Townsend
Obviously you're not using water from Lithia Park!
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Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:
I use tap water with no problem because Ashland city --
Richard Townsend Lincoln City, Oregon __________________________________________________________________ Switch to Netscape Internet Service. As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register Netscape. Just the Net You Need. New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups. Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
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Thanks all. Since the first model I plan to decal is a carload of PRR HB-1 containers for the G22B gondola. I may try Champ on one side and Mircoscale on the other since I plan to weather the crap out of the containers like Elden Gatwood's model in a issue of TKM.
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Brian Carlson Schuyler Larrabee <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:
-----Original Message-----I bet Richard left out the word "distilled," as in "distilled water" because regular tap water has lots of salts and other crud in it which will show up on your model as water spots. So, to a degree, will the glue on the decal, but nowhere as much. Distilled water is available at the grocery store and at stores like CVS. Cheap too. SGL Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: STMFC-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
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Richard Hendrickson
Rich Townsend, who's obviously been here, writes:
Obviously you're not using water from Lithia Park!No, Lithia water is strictly a curiosity for the tourists (for the uninitiated, Ashland was at one time promoted as a spa community owing to the water - full of bad tasting minerals - that flows out of natural hot springs). At one time it was piped to the railroad station, when there was a railroad station, but AFAIK it was never shipped out in rail cars like Shasta water, Arrowhead water, etc. (obligatory FC content). Our city water is snow melt from the Siskiyou Mountains - pure as the driven snow, or pretty close to it. Richard H. Hendrickson Ashland, Oregon 97520
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ljack70117@...
On Monday, December 20, 2004, at 12:12 AM, Richard Hendrickson wrote:
I read some where (do not remember where) but there is no pure water left on the surface of the earth. You may find some from under ground springs or from wells around Abilene Ks where it passes through 50 feet of sand. Even the snow and water on mountain tops are now polluted. The garbage comes out of the polluted air. When they say pure water today they mean it has less than what the government says is allowed. Even the bottled water you buy in the stores is not pure. Out of all the bottled water they tested over 60% of the companies were using straight tap water. This report was not from before the 50s but I read it in the last 15 years. Thank you Larry Jackman ljack70117@... I do not care who you are fat man. Get that sleigh and reindeer off my roof.
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eabracher@...
In a message dated 12/20/04 6:05:59 AM, ljack70117@... writes:
When they say pure water todaythe electronic industry uses PURE water in the manufacture of chips here in San jose. eric
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buchwaldfam <duff@...>
Mr. Hendrickson,
In reference to the Microscale decals disintigrating: Do you mean "older" in the sense of "any MS decals which have been sitting around a while", or are you referring to some older "formulation" of their decal film? I've had Microscale decals fall apart on me, and so now clip one of them (which I won't be using on the model)off of the sheet and test it to see if it will fall apart. If it does, i'll smear on a coat of their decal saver. It would be nice to not be so paranoid about their shelf life. I usually buy a decal set when a particular project strikes me as interesting, but then it gets put back in behind many other projects, so the decals could sit in the cupboard for a couple of years before I use them. Finally, the Microscale decal saver is too thick to airbrush. Can it be thinned with something? Or could a coat of clear acrylic paint do the same thing, and also be flexible enough to stand up to being applied to the model? Thanks! Phil Buchwald --- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@o...> wrote: decalI am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What andsetting solution do you guys recommend for their decals. I have decals needMicro Set, setting solutions.Brian, the Rail Graphics decals included in Westerfield kits aren't to be handled carefully, of course.
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earlyrail
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 17:48:33 -0000 Finally, the Microscale decal saver is too thick to airbrush. Can it be thinned with something? Or could a coat of clear acrylic paint do the same thing, and also be flexible enough to stand up to being applied to the model? Thanks!Use a coat of Future Acrylic floor finish. Many of use making decals with the ALPS printers use that as a top coat. Howard Garner modeling 1905
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Richard Hendrickson
From Phil Buchwald:
In reference to the Microscale decals disintigrating: Do youBoth, actually. I have a bunch of them which have been around for years (and it's also possible that the MS film is better now than it used to be). Finally, the Microscale decal saver is too thick to airbrush.The instructions on the MS film bottle say not to thin or dilute it, so I guess there's no way it can be airbrushed. Whether clear acrylic would work as well I can't say, as I've never tried it. Richard H. Hendrickson Ashland, Oregon 97520
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Thomas M. Olsen <tmolsen@...>
Brian,
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I have used all, but my experience with Walther's Solvaset was to dilute it with a little water as I have had decals shrivel up when using it straight from a new bottle. It can be quite strong, but loses some of it's potency after the bottle has been around for a while. A friend of mine was working on an Precision Scale Borden's milk car that had decals that were a series of overlays for the four milk bottles that were two to each side. He had all but the last one done finished when he ran out of Solvaset. All that was left to do was add the overlay with the black bottle outline and bottle labeling decal to it. When he added the overlay, he forgot and opened and used a brand-new bottle of Solvaset without diluting a little of it with water. Bye-Bye-Bye overlay! It shriveled right up! He is still looking for a set of those decals ten years later as they were made for those cars only. I have not had any difficulty with the other solutions, although the MicroScale and ThinFilm decals do need a little more care in the application as they do have a tendency to disintegrate. If you have decals that have surface cracks, are very old, or are very thin, you can either airbrush them with a clear lacquer or use MicroScale's Liquid Decal Film which can be brushed over the decal in question. This will seal any surface breaks and/or give added strength to the really thin decals so that they will hold up to the setting solution better. Tom Olsen Newark, Delaware Brian Carlson wrote:
Thanks all. Since the first model I plan to decal is a carload of PRR HB-1 containers for the G22B gondola. I may try Champ on one side and Mircoscale on the other since I plan to weather the crap out of the containers like Elden Gatwood's model in a issue of TKM.
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buchwaldfam <duff@...>
Oh, yeah! I saw that web site a month ago. I'm going to try to spray
it through my old badger brush. Thanks! Phil Buchwald --- In STMFC@..., Howard R Garner <cascaderail@b...> wrote: airbrush.Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 17:48:33 -0000 acrylicCan it be thinned with something? Or could a coat of clear topaint do the same thing, and also be flexible enough to stand up coat.being applied to the model?Use a coat of Future Acrylic floor finish.
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