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What Front range and CB&T kits have any value
Bill McCoy <bugsy451@...>
I'm cleaning house before the Jax Train show. Are there any
prototypes to be made from Front range 40' and 50' box car shells and the CB&T 1944 AAR 40' box car shell. The frames and appliances are worthless but the bodies look pretty well done. I have FR DD and SD 40's with fishbelly sidesills and 50' DDs welded and riveted. Also is there any prototype for the Central Valley underframes? Bill McCoy Jax |
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Bill, the hands down best, inexpensive, 40 and 50 foot, noncushion
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replacement underframes for postwar AAR box cars are made by Accurail. If you are willing to chop out the floor of the Front Range cars, or simply toss out the C&BT underframes, then the Accurail underframe is almost a drop-in. Now, these underframes are technically only correct for particular door widths, but if you can live with that problem they're great. The Front Range body tooling was very good IMO. Red Caboose redid the 40 foot cars and they're even better, but they used the underframes from their 1937 cars! Branchline and Intermountain make good postwar underframes too, but its not a complete floor + uf like the Accurail. The riveted 50 foot cars are great for... Southern Pacific! And only a few others. The welded cars can be applied to a number of owners, especially since narrowing the door opening or modeling a wider door is pretty easy. I don't know about the 40 foot fishbelly off the top of my head. Now that I think of it, Red Caboose did at least two different styles of tab sill for the 40 foot cars with 8 foot doors, something no one else has done that I know of. Tim I'm cleaning house before the Jax Train show. Are there any |
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Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...>
Bill McCoy asked:
"I'm cleaning house before the Jax Train show. Are there any prototypes to be made from Front range 40' and 50' box car shells and the CB&T 1944 AAR 40' box car shell? The frames and appliances are worthless but the bodies look pretty well done. I have FR DD and SD 40's with fishbelly sidesills and 50' DDs welded and riveted." The Front Range and C&BT Car Shops single door 40 ft postwar AAR boxcars have been largely superceded by models currently available from Branchline, Intermountain, and Red Caboose. If you have any C&BT 12-panel side cars with 7 ft or 8 ft doors, I recommend hanging on to them as there is no other kit available. As for the Front Range cars, I wasn't aware that they offered the 40 ft single door cars with full sidesills. You might want to hang on to them if you plan on doing any 1960s 40 ft cars, as the full sidesill will save you some work depending on the prototype. As Tim noted, you could replace the underframes, going as far as cutting out the ones on the Front Range kit, but I caution you against the law of diminishing returns. Why cut out a Front Range floor if the same prototype can be modeled from a Branchline kit? I don't know about you, but my time's well worth the delta between the selling price of that Front Range kit and the price of a new Branchline kit. If your cars are in resalable condition, I'd get rid of all but the ones I mentioned above. BTW, Ed Hawkins wrote up how to correct underframes for 8 ft door cars: http://www.steamfreightcars.com/modeling/articles/btuframemain.html "Also is there any prototype for the Central Valley underframes?" The CV underframes are from their NP stock car kit. They were marketed as replacements for Athearn, et. al. house car underframes; however, the kingpin to striker measurement is 5 ft, which is incorrect for post-1932 AAR boxcars. I purchased a bunch a long time ago to modify Walthers/Train-Miniature X29s, but they don't really work for that as the crossmember locations are different. They might work for other 1920s prototype house cars after narrowing - double check from your prototype information first though. Ben Hom |
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Ben Hom asks
It can only be modeled in the case of the 40 foot cars with 6Why cut out a Front Range floor if the same prototype can be and 8 foot doors. Other Front Range models are different than the Branchlines. The riveted 50 foot cars are quite different: 12 panel vs. BL's 16 panel. BL sliding door cars are useless for the SP, for example. Front Range also made a centered double door car with welded sides -- used by a few roads including SP. Tim O. |
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Andy Miller <asmiller@...>
Aren't the CV underframes from their NP stock car kit?
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regards, Andy Miller -----Original Message-----
From: Bill McCoy [mailto:bugsy451@...] Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 6:41 PM To: STMFC@... Subject: [STMFC] What Front range and CB&T kits have any value I'm cleaning house before the Jax Train show. Are there any prototypes to be made from Front range 40' and 50' box car shells and the CB&T 1944 AAR 40' box car shell. The frames and appliances are worthless but the bodies look pretty well done. I have FR DD and SD 40's with fishbelly sidesills and 50' DDs welded and riveted. Also is there any prototype for the Central Valley underframes? Bill McCoy Jax ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Meet the McDonald¿s® Lincoln Fry get free digital souvenirs, Web-only video and bid on the Lincoln Fry prop charity auction. http://us.click.yahoo.com/2YkgMD/fV0JAA/Y3ZIAA/9MtolB/TM --------------------------------------------------------------------~-> Yahoo! Groups Links |
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buchwaldfam <duff@...>
If this is a 12 panel instead of a 16 panel riveted car, is the
Accurail 50 foot riveted car useable as a Southern Pacific car? Just asking because I have, guess what?, a couple of the Accurail 50 foot cars, and don't know what to do with them. Have never seen a photo which matches that panel layout. If so, what series is the Southern Pacific car? Thanks, Phil Buchwald --- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@c...> wrote: The riveted 50 foot cars are great for... Southern Pacific! Andonly a few others. |
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Phil, the ACCURAIL 50 foot box car tooling -IS- from the
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FRONT RANGE box cars. They were transformed into one-piece bodies with separate underframes (instead of separate roofs). Accurail did at least one accurate SP 50 ft, double door car with unusual gothic lettering. They used a computer font but it's passably close and no one makes decals for it anyway. Tim O. If this is a 12 panel instead of a 16 panel riveted car, is the |
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Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Phil Buchwald writes:The Accurail 50-ft. single-door car has a slight fishbelly side sill, which would have to be removed for an SP car, such as B-50-34, which had a straight side sill. It also has a very narrow panel (or at least rivet row) next to the door, which would have to be removed or ignored for use with SP lettering. I don't have such a model, so can't check dimensions relative to the SP cars. The Accurail model does have single rivet rows, thus ruling out some other 50-ft. SD classes which had double rivet rows. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history |
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oliver
IIRC Bob Smaus used the Front Range 50' DD welded car for the 1960s
era ACF built SP B-70-14 series of lumber cars with yellow door(220000-220499). There was a article in the May 1989 RMC. Not sure how accurate these kitbashes are. According to the article, these were apparently patterned after NP#6000-7899 series cars, so they may be a potential project as well (someone more knowledgable may want to chime in). Smaus also used the 40' riveted, deep sill FR car with a new 10' door for the lumber car rebuilds with the famous yellow diagonal stripe (apparently various number series from 172000 to 189999. Tony Thompson probably could provide better information. Hope that helps some... Stefan Lerché Duncan BC Canada |
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buchwaldfam <duff@...>
Thanks for the info.
I think that scraping off a row or two of rivets wouldn't be a big deal. BTW, the car sides have joggles at each panel line instead of simply overlapping flat sheets. Of course I have more questions... ;> Are the ends on the prototype car the "early" or "late" IDE? The Accurail car has the late ends, but I'd have to clean off the molded-on end ladders anyway so it would be easier to just glue on some replacement Branchline ends. Is there a good photo or book avialable which shows this series or car? And what is the number series? I've got an old issue of either MR'ING or RMJ with a long distance shot of two differnt series of SP cars, but they don't give much detail, only that at least one of the series is a double door car. Thanks again! Phil Buchwald --- In STMFC@..., Anthony Thompson <thompson@s...> wrote: JustPhil Buchwald writes: footasking because I have, guess what?, a couple of the Accurail 50 photocars, and don't know what to do with them. Have never seen a sidewhich matches that panel layout.The Accurail 50-ft. single-door car has a slight fishbelly sill, which would have to be removed for an SP car, such as B-50-34, which had a straight side sill. It also has a very narrow panel(or at least rivet row) next to the door, which would have to be removedor ignored for use with SP lettering. I don't have such a model, socan't check dimensions relative to the SP cars. The Accurail model doeshave single rivet rows, thus ruling out some other 50-ft. SD classeswhich had double rivet rows. |
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Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Phil Buchwald asked:Are we talking single or double door? pre- or post-1956? The B-50-34 I mentioned earlier does NOT have the late ends. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history |
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Stefan Lerché wrote
According to the article, these were apparently patterned afterThat can't be right. The NP cars were riveted and had ZU eave roofs and straight side sills. The model is welded, has drop sills and a flush roof. Smaus also used the 40' riveted, deep sill FR car with a new 10' doorThat definitely was wrong, since the SP rebuilds were made from 10' interior height cars, and the model is a 10'6". Tim O. |
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Bill McCoy <bugsy451@...>
Ben and Tim, Thanks for your comments. Looking at the cars I have
they are as follows: 40' single 8' door with drop side sills with 10 panel riveted sides. Lettered C&O 19209. This car appears to be a model of the C&O 19209 shown on page 24 RP-CYC vol 4 including the ends. 40' single 8' door with drop side sills with 10 panel welded sides with the same ends (4-3-1?) 40' double 6' doors with drop side sill and riveted sides and the same end as the C&O car. I got this car from the NKP HS and is NKP 22101. I suspect it too is a Front Range. 40' single 6' door with tabbed side sill and welded 10 panel sides with the same ends (4-3-1?) 40' single 6' door with tabbed side sills and riveted 10 panel sides with the same ends. 50' double 8' doors, 13 panel welded sides, the same ends as on the 40' cars. 50' double 8' doors, 13 panel riveted sides, the same ends as on the 40' cars. All of these cars appear to 10' 6" IH. and have diagonal panel roofs with the exception of the CB&T car. I have a couple of the Red Caboose variants and it is apparently an improved Front Range 40 footer. I wonder if they got the fifties too. What would be the correct under frame for these cars? The CB&T 1944 AAR 40' has a 4-4 improved dreadnaught end and 10 panel riveted sides with a rectangular panel roof. Bill McCoy Jax --- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@c...> wrote: Just footasking because I have, guess what?, a couple of the Accurail 50 photocars, and don't know what to do with them. Have never seen a which matches that panel layout. |
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Scott Pitzer
The C&O car is a good one to do from this kit, but they had 9' doors. I think I narrowed an Athearn "Railbox" door for mine, but you can probably do better now in the doors department.
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And Front Range didn't do all that well with their C&O box car lettering jobs. This model, in brown, had the C and the O larger than the &, as in the later Chessie System style. Scott Pitzer ======= -----Original Message-----
From: Bill McCoy <bugsy451@...> Sent: Feb 9, 2005 6:05 PM To: STMFC@... Subject: [STMFC] Re: What Front range and CB&T kits have any value Ben and Tim, Thanks for your comments. Looking at the cars I have they are as follows: 40' single 8' door with drop side sills with 10 panel riveted sides. Lettered C&O 19209. This car appears to be a model of the C&O 19209 shown on page 24 RP-CYC vol 4 including the ends. |
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oliver
Tim,
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Like I said...I'm not sure about the authenticity of these kitbashes. There is no mention of 10' vs 10'6" on the 40'ers. He used the FR #5100 for the 50' car and the FR#4070 for the 40' car. I guess it's another case of "good enough to publish". regards Stefan --- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@c...> wrote:
Stefan Lerché wroteAccording to the article, these were apparently patterned afterThat can't be right. The NP cars were riveted and had ZU eave roofs |
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The ends on the FR/Accurail cars are R+3/4, and is similar to the
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ends on the SP B-50-35, -36 and -38 which were all quite similar looking cars with the same number of side panels, same roof and same ends. The Accurail car was numbered as a B-50-35 #210836 and I have a 1955 photo of the prototype car lettered the same way. Tim O. Are the ends on the prototype car the "early" or "late" IDE?Are we talking single or double door? pre- or post-1956? The |
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mopacfirst
This is a break from the thread that has been going on for a couple days.
I think the CB&T kits are great -- I've harvested about 30 stainless steel weights from them. They're flat and have a good finish, so they're excellent as a way to hold a Branchline or similar roofwalk down while the glue dries. I've also held on to a few doors that might be useful someday, even if I stack them up against the wall of the carshop that I haven't built yet. Ron Merrick ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain proprietary, business-confidential and/or privileged material. If you are not the intended recipient of this message you are hereby notified that any use, review, retransmission, dissemination, distribution, reproduction or any action taken in reliance upon this message is prohibited. If you received this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender and may not necessarily reflect the views of the company. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
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Bill McCoy <bugsy451@...>
I take it this is the welded 50' DD you are talking about so I'll
earmark my welded FR 50' car to be an SP. Is it a B50-35 or 36 or 37? What underframe would it have? This leaves finding prototypes for the other cars. Thanks. Bill McCoy Jax d--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@c...> wrote: IDE? theThe Accurail car has the late ends, but I'd have to clean off onmolded-on end ladders anyway so it would be easier to just glue Thesome replacement Branchline ends.Are we talking single or double door? pre- or post-1956? B-50-34 I mentioned earlier does NOT have the late ends. |
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buchwaldfam <duff@...>
I'd like build a single door car, only so I don't have to hunt
down another pair of doors. Is that what the B-50-34 was? The photo in the magazine (my only source) shows a double door car, but not close enough to see the panel layout on the side. The ends on the Accurail car are the late IDE style. I'd like to build a car with the early IDE's simply because I have some Branchline ends in a bag on the bench, and that would save me from carving the ladders out of all of those dents! To that end, when was the B-50-34 series constructed, and what was the number series? I'd like to get a photo (Bob's or a Sunshine book?) to see what the car looks like... things like: a good look at the straight sills that you mentioned. As for the year, I was trying to stick with '50 through '55, but now have to go out to '56: a very bad person insisted that I needed a Kadee PS2 in Rutland colors. :) Best regards, Phil Buchwald --- In STMFC@..., Anthony Thompson <thompson@s...> wrote: The B-50-34 I mentioned earlier does NOT have the late ends. |
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