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double stirrup steps and Blacken-It
Dean Payne <deanpayne@...>
I am finishing up my kitbash of a 1920's Newburgh and South Shore GS
gondola based on a Red Caboose kit (with plate ends). I am in need
of long, double run stirrup steps (sill steps). Tichy has 3045,
which appear to be too short, perhaps, but Des Plaines has DPH2001,
which might be better. Are these the only sources of non-offset
double sill steps? Are the Des Plaines steps any different from the
Tichy steps, or are they dimensionally similar?
Also, since I replaced the supplied ladders with wire grabs, I am
wondering if you have experience with using Blacken-It to turn the
wire grabs black. I would hope this would prevent the common problem
of paint wearing/chipping off and showing a glint of brass on a black
model. I have heard of etching the brass by soaking it in vinegar,
and blasting it with abrasive. The cheapest abrasive blaster I know
about is the Paasche Air Eraser at $40, which might be more than I
want to spend right now. Of course, you can use it to blast truck
side frames as well, etc, so you get more versatility. Vinegar is
even cheaper than Blacken-it, so I am trying that as a start. I
could use Blacken-it over the vinegar "etching", of course.
Dean Payne
gondola based on a Red Caboose kit (with plate ends). I am in need
of long, double run stirrup steps (sill steps). Tichy has 3045,
which appear to be too short, perhaps, but Des Plaines has DPH2001,
which might be better. Are these the only sources of non-offset
double sill steps? Are the Des Plaines steps any different from the
Tichy steps, or are they dimensionally similar?
Also, since I replaced the supplied ladders with wire grabs, I am
wondering if you have experience with using Blacken-It to turn the
wire grabs black. I would hope this would prevent the common problem
of paint wearing/chipping off and showing a glint of brass on a black
model. I have heard of etching the brass by soaking it in vinegar,
and blasting it with abrasive. The cheapest abrasive blaster I know
about is the Paasche Air Eraser at $40, which might be more than I
want to spend right now. Of course, you can use it to blast truck
side frames as well, etc, so you get more versatility. Vinegar is
even cheaper than Blacken-it, so I am trying that as a start. I
could use Blacken-it over the vinegar "etching", of course.
Dean Payne
Schuyler Larrabee
I have vinegar-etched metal parts prior to using Blacken-it. You get a really
nice rich black finish, at least on brass. You have to clearcoat this RIGHT
AWAY, because it will rub off on your fingers. Once that's done, it is fairly
tough, but it will eventually rub off on the wear points, if you
handle/wrap/transport your models. The only way I know of to truly prevent that
is to have them plated.
The vinegar-etching is pretty essential. Otherwise you won't get an even
finish.
You can strengthen the etching by dissolving salt into the vinegar until you get
a saturated solution (solid salt remains in the bottom of the bottle) to get an
acid. I forget, but I think this is hydrochloric acid, but not all that strong.
Wear gloves, though, because your hangnails will announce themselves quite
stridently. And mark the bottle, you don't want that vinegar in your salad!
SGL
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nice rich black finish, at least on brass. You have to clearcoat this RIGHT
AWAY, because it will rub off on your fingers. Once that's done, it is fairly
tough, but it will eventually rub off on the wear points, if you
handle/wrap/transport your models. The only way I know of to truly prevent that
is to have them plated.
The vinegar-etching is pretty essential. Otherwise you won't get an even
finish.
You can strengthen the etching by dissolving salt into the vinegar until you get
a saturated solution (solid salt remains in the bottom of the bottle) to get an
acid. I forget, but I think this is hydrochloric acid, but not all that strong.
Wear gloves, though, because your hangnails will announce themselves quite
stridently. And mark the bottle, you don't want that vinegar in your salad!
SGL
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Payne [mailto:deanpayne@...]
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 1:44 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] double stirrup steps and Blacken-It
I am finishing up my kitbash of a 1920's Newburgh and South
Shore GS gondola based on a Red Caboose kit (with plate
ends). I am in need of long, double run stirrup steps (sill
steps). Tichy has 3045, which appear to be too short,
perhaps, but Des Plaines has DPH2001, which might be better.
Are these the only sources of non-offset double sill steps?
Are the Des Plaines steps any different from the Tichy steps,
or are they dimensionally similar?
Also, since I replaced the supplied ladders with wire grabs,
I am wondering if you have experience with using Blacken-It
to turn the wire grabs black. I would hope this would
prevent the common problem of paint wearing/chipping off and
showing a glint of brass on a black model. I have heard of
etching the brass by soaking it in vinegar, and blasting it
with abrasive. The cheapest abrasive blaster I know about is
the Paasche Air Eraser at $40, which might be more than I
want to spend right now. Of course, you can use it to blast
truck side frames as well, etc, so you get more versatility.
Vinegar is even cheaper than Blacken-it, so I am trying that
as a start. I could use Blacken-it over the vinegar
"etching", of course.
Dean Payne
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Richard Hendrickson
Dean Payne writes:
found it necessary to chemically etch the brass beforehand; Blacken-It
itself functions as a chemical etch. If the parts are sandblasted first,
so much the better. In fact, paint hangs on to sandblasted surfaces like
grim death and will not come off with normal handling even if you don't use
a chemical blackener. Bite the bullet, buy yourself an abrasive gun, and
cobble up a spray booth from second-hand materials or cheap particle board
to keep the abrasive powder contained. Once you've used one, you'll wonder
how you ever got along without it. (I'm assuming you already have an air
brush and air compressor, since it's almost impossible to do serious
modeling without one.)
I routinely sandblast all models before painting. The myth that you can't
sandblast styrene or resin is just that - a myth. Most paints don't adhere
any better to shiny plastic than to shiny metal; light sandblasting with
fine abrasive provides a "toothy" finish for excellent paint adherance
without damaging details.
Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520
...since I replaced the supplied ladders with wire grabs, I amDean, I routinely blacken brass wire parts with Blacken-It and have never
wondering if you have experience with using Blacken-It to turn the
wire grabs black. I would hope this would prevent the common problem
of paint wearing/chipping off and showing a glint of brass on a black
model. I have heard of etching the brass by soaking it in vinegar,
and blasting it with abrasive. The cheapest abrasive blaster I know
about is the Paasche Air Eraser at $40, which might be more than I
want to spend right now. Of course, you can use it to blast truck
side frames as well, etc, so you get more versatility. Vinegar is
even cheaper than Blacken-it, so I am trying that as a start. I
could use Blacken-it over the vinegar "etching", of course.
Dean Payne
found it necessary to chemically etch the brass beforehand; Blacken-It
itself functions as a chemical etch. If the parts are sandblasted first,
so much the better. In fact, paint hangs on to sandblasted surfaces like
grim death and will not come off with normal handling even if you don't use
a chemical blackener. Bite the bullet, buy yourself an abrasive gun, and
cobble up a spray booth from second-hand materials or cheap particle board
to keep the abrasive powder contained. Once you've used one, you'll wonder
how you ever got along without it. (I'm assuming you already have an air
brush and air compressor, since it's almost impossible to do serious
modeling without one.)
I routinely sandblast all models before painting. The myth that you can't
sandblast styrene or resin is just that - a myth. Most paints don't adhere
any better to shiny plastic than to shiny metal; light sandblasting with
fine abrasive provides a "toothy" finish for excellent paint adherance
without damaging details.
Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520
Dean Payne <deanpayne@...>
--- In STMFC@..., "Schuyler Larrabee"
<schuyler.larrabee@v...> wrote:
PollyScale) followed by a clear coat. Is Blacken-It any better, or
are we pretty much relying on the DullCote for protection from
wear/chipping?
No input (yet) on the Tichy vs. Des Plaines double rung sill steps.
The Tichy is a lot cheaper and more likely to be available at my LHS,
I don't know if the Des Plaines part is appreciably different,
dimensionally. I'm looking for a bit more length, if such a step
were ever made.
Dean Payne
<schuyler.larrabee@v...> wrote:
I have vinegar-etched metal parts prior to using Blacken-it. YouMy intent was to have a more durable finish than just painting (I use
get a really nice rich black finish, at least on brass. You have to
clearcoat this RIGHT AWAY, because it will rub off on yourfingers. Once that's done, it is fairly tough, but it will
eventually rub off on the wear points, if you handle/wrap/transport
your models.
PollyScale) followed by a clear coat. Is Blacken-It any better, or
are we pretty much relying on the DullCote for protection from
wear/chipping?
No input (yet) on the Tichy vs. Des Plaines double rung sill steps.
The Tichy is a lot cheaper and more likely to be available at my LHS,
I don't know if the Des Plaines part is appreciably different,
dimensionally. I'm looking for a bit more length, if such a step
were ever made.
Dean Payne
jerryglow2
--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson
<rhendrickson@o...> wrote:
<rhendrickson@o...> wrote:
Bite the bullet, buy yourself an abrasive gun...you can't
Once you've used one, you'll wonder
how you ever got along without it.
I routinely sandblast all models before painting. The myth that
sandblast styrene or resin is just that - a myth. Most paintsdon't adhere
any better to shiny plastic than to shiny metal; lightsandblasting with
fine abrasive provides a "toothy" finish for excellent paintadherance
without damaging details.
Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520
jerryglow2
Sorry - I hit the send before adding my reply which is basically to
wholeheartedly agree with Richard. When I lived in southern CA and
had a paint shop we had a weekly modeling nite at the shop and all
used my bead booth for cleanup on various construction models. Just
be mindful of the pressure and grit of the media you use.
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
wholeheartedly agree with Richard. When I lived in southern CA and
had a paint shop we had a weekly modeling nite at the shop and all
used my bead booth for cleanup on various construction models. Just
be mindful of the pressure and grit of the media you use.
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
--- In STMFC@..., "jerryglow2" <jerryglow@c...> wrote:
--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson
<rhendrickson@o...> wrote:Bite the bullet, buy yourself an abrasive gun...you can't
Once you've used one, you'll wonder
how you ever got along without it.
I routinely sandblast all models before painting. The myth thatsandblast styrene or resin is just that - a myth. Most paintsdon't adhereany better to shiny plastic than to shiny metal; lightsandblasting withfine abrasive provides a "toothy" finish for excellent paintadherancewithout damaging details.
Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520