Using CA as a gap filler


Mark Heiden
 

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to fill the gap between the weight cover and the body of an
Atlas two-bay offset side hopper, with little luck. Body putty
doesn't want to stay in place, so I turned to using CA instead. I'm
using Flash CA, medium formula, but this isn't working well either. It
doesn't seem to get down into the gap, it just seems to sit on the
surface. I've been running a bead along the gap, then sanding it
smooth with progressively finer sand paper (about 400 grit to start).
Is there a trick to doing this? Should I try to somehow force the CA
into the gap? Any advice is welcome!

Thanks,
Mark Heiden


Fred in Vt. <pennsy@...>
 

Mark,

There is one technique that has been used when things make one itch; that is> take a file and run it across some evergreen, or like plastic, until you have a pile of shavings. Mix in some gap filler CA until it makes a paste-like mixture, then tamp it into the seam you're trying to fill. Sand, as you described, then finish with 0000 grit steel wool.
PRACTICE on a spare piece or two before blending it into the model. It's not the easiest method, yet it has it's moments when it's needed.
Good luck with the project.

Fred Freitas

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Heiden
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 7:32 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Using CA as a gap filler


Hello everyone,

I'm trying to fill the gap between the weight cover and the body of an
Atlas two-bay offset side hopper, with little luck. Body putty
doesn't want to stay in place, so I turned to using CA instead. I'm
using Flash CA, medium formula, but this isn't working well either. It
doesn't seem to get down into the gap, it just seems to sit on the
surface. I've been running a bead along the gap, then sanding it
smooth with progressively finer sand paper (about 400 grit to start).
Is there a trick to doing this? Should I try to somehow force the CA
into the gap? Any advice is welcome!

Thanks,
Mark Heiden




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Miller,Andrew S. <asmiller@...>
 

Mark,

Use the "thin" CA. Let it run into the gap and then spray it with CA
accelerator. It may require several layers to fill a large gap.


regards,

Andy Miller

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Mark Heiden
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 7:33 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Using CA as a gap filler

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to fill the gap between the weight cover and the body of an
Atlas two-bay offset side hopper, with little luck. Body putty
doesn't want to stay in place, so I turned to using CA instead. I'm
using Flash CA, medium formula, but this isn't working well either. It
doesn't seem to get down into the gap, it just seems to sit on the
surface. I've been running a bead along the gap, then sanding it
smooth with progressively finer sand paper (about 400 grit to start).
Is there a trick to doing this? Should I try to somehow force the CA
into the gap? Any advice is welcome!

Thanks,
Mark Heiden


Andy Carlson
 

A very accomplished modeler, who has mentored me for
decades, showed me a technique years ago which I still
gratefully use and have found nothing else with the
properties I find useful.

Hardware stores which stock Devcon WHITE 2-Ton epoxy
are the source for a great filler for styrene models.
Back when I was making a few masters of freight cars,
styrene was the material I worked with and I found
that this Devcon product was a very good surface
filler. It has a hardness similar to styrene, an asset
when someone is sanding/filing the work area. It does
not shrink, and the working consistency enables single
application success. Downside? It takes about 6 hours
to harden. Avoid the 5-minute epoxys, for their
shrinkage alone makes them unusable for this purpose.

Over the years this product has been harder to find,
though it seems to be currently available in a double
syringe applicator. I suggest separating the 2
syringes, and when mixing, use a ratio of about 55/45
white component to cream component.

BTW, Devcon White 2-Ton Epoxy is an extremely good
product for casting small parts from molds made from
Auto Parts stores high Temperature Silicone Gasket
material.

Regards,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Tim O'Connor
 

It's still available Andy. Thanks for the tip.

A very accomplished modeler, who has mentored me for
decades, showed me a technique years ago which I still
gratefully use and have found nothing else with the
properties I find useful.

Hardware stores which stock Devcon WHITE 2-Ton epoxy
are the source for a great filler for styrene models.

Regards,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Montford Switzer <ZOE@...>
 

Mark:

Try working the CA into the crack with a brush loaded with Testors
plastic solvent cement. Lay a bead of the thick CA where you want it.
The solvent cement tends to thin the CA so it will go into the space you
need to fill.

Another technique I picked up several years ago from Bob Hundman is to
make a paste out of Squadron Green plastic filler putty and Testors
plastic solvent cement. Work the paste into the opening with a chisel
blade model knife for flat tooth pick.

Now comes the part where one should say "practice on a junk model until
you are comfortable with the technique you choose."

Mont Switzer

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Mark Heiden
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 6:33 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Using CA as a gap filler

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to fill the gap between the weight cover and the body of an
Atlas two-bay offset side hopper, with little luck. Body putty
doesn't want to stay in place, so I turned to using CA instead. I'm
using Flash CA, medium formula, but this isn't working well either. It
doesn't seem to get down into the gap, it just seems to sit on the
surface. I've been running a bead along the gap, then sanding it
smooth with progressively finer sand paper (about 400 grit to start).
Is there a trick to doing this? Should I try to somehow force the CA
into the gap? Any advice is welcome!

Thanks,
Mark Heiden





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Brian Paul Ehni <behni@...>
 

A local plastic craftsman dissolves scrap styrene sprue and other styrene
parts in Testor's to make a paste for filling cracks and dents.
--
Thanks!

Brian Ehni

From: Montford Switzer <ZOE@...>
Reply-To: <STMFC@...>
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 09:43:45 -0500
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Using CA as a gap filler

Mark:

Try working the CA into the crack with a brush loaded with Testors
plastic solvent cement. Lay a bead of the thick CA where you want it.
The solvent cement tends to thin the CA so it will go into the space you
need to fill.

Another technique I picked up several years ago from Bob Hundman is to
make a paste out of Squadron Green plastic filler putty and Testors
plastic solvent cement. Work the paste into the opening with a chisel
blade model knife for flat tooth pick.

Now comes the part where one should say "practice on a junk model until
you are comfortable with the technique you choose."

Mont Switzer


Thomas M. Olsen <tmolsen@...>
 

In regard to Andy's post regarding Devcon, I have a friend in Ft. Wayne Indiana who makes his own masters and casts all of his PRR rolling stock from Devcon. Bill Faith, whom some of those on this list may remember, had been the original owner of Custom Railway Supply. At that time he was selling engravings of tower signs, railroad crossing signs, engine and tender badge plates, in addition to also making trust plates for passenger cars, cabin (cabooses to most of you) cars and freight cars (proper references for this list).

Bill has always cast his own parts from his own molds and masters, or from molds he made of commercially made parts. Over the last several years he has turned to Devcon to cast his own kits and parts which assembles into passenger cars and freight cars which would not otherwise be available, or available only as a brass model. His standards are so high that he absolutely refuses to buy a lot of what is on the market, either in brass, plastic or urethane.

He says that the Devcon as a casting material, even for large objects such as freight and passenger car sides, is an excellent medium to use and has had very few problems with it. I have seen the results of his work. He has cast PRR H30 Covered Hoppers where the only commercial parts that he has used were the grab irons, dimensional brass wire, couplers and wheel sets. They are exquisite! The interesting thing is that the Devcon he is using, when set up and hardened, is a dark gray. I imagine from Andy's description of the WHITE 2-Ton epoxy, that there must be several versions of this casting material on the market.

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware,19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@...
Andy Carlson wrote:

A very accomplished modeler, who has mentored me for
decades, showed me a technique years ago which I still
gratefully use and have found nothing else with the
properties I find useful.

Hardware stores which stock Devcon WHITE 2-Ton epoxy
are the source for a great filler for styrene models.
Back when I was making a few masters of freight cars,
styrene was the material I worked with and I found
that this Devcon product was a very good surface
filler. It has a hardness similar to styrene, an asset
when someone is sanding/filing the work area. It does
not shrink, and the working consistency enables single
application success. Downside? It takes about 6 hours
to harden. Avoid the 5-minute epoxys, for their
shrinkage alone makes them unusable for this purpose.

Over the years this product has been harder to find,
though it seems to be currently available in a double
syringe applicator. I suggest separating the 2
syringes, and when mixing, use a ratio of about 55/45
white component to cream component.

BTW, Devcon White 2-Ton Epoxy is an extremely good
product for casting small parts from molds made from
Auto Parts stores high Temperature Silicone Gasket
material.
Regards,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


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