NP flat kit


joe binish <joebinish@...>
 

Fellow freight car nuts,
I receeived my NP 52' flat kit in the mail from Northern Specific models
today. Really nice, enough that I am putting off working on other stuff
that would earn fame and fortune to put it together! I hope to get it done
for an op session this weekend, albeit empty(the lumber load will have to
wait!)I have no connection with Northern Specific Models, just a happy
customer!
Joe Binish


Brian Paul Ehni <behni@...>
 

Website?
--

Brian Ehni

From: joe binish <joebinish@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 18:56:19 -0600
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] NP flat kit

Fellow freight car nuts,
I receeived my NP 52' flat kit in the mail from Northern Specific models
today. Really nice, enough that I am putting off working on other stuff
that would earn fame and fortune to put it together! I hope to get it done
for an op session this weekend, albeit empty(the lumber load will have to
wait!)I have no connection with Northern Specific Models, just a happy
customer!
Joe Binish


Tom Palmer
 

Brian,
Try this- http://www.northernspecificmodels.com/ - the stock car is nice.
Best regards,
Tom Palmer
Stafford, (no city taxes) Texas
77477
Modeling the Katy in 1952 in Texas of course.

----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Paul Ehni
To: STMFC List
Sent: 3/22/2006 8:10:58 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] NP flat kit


Website?
--

Brian Ehni


From: joe binish <joebinish@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 18:56:19 -0600
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] NP flat kit

Fellow freight car nuts,
I receeived my NP 52' flat kit in the mail from Northern Specific models
today. Really nice, enough that I am putting off working on other stuff
that would earn fame and fortune to put it together! I hope to get it done
for an op session this weekend, albeit empty(the lumber load will have to
wait!)I have no connection with Northern Specific Models, just a happy
customer!
Joe Binish




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joe binish <joebinish@...>
 

sorry!
www.northernspecificmodels.com
joe binish


Brian Paul Ehni <behni@...>
 

Can't say I ever saw the prototype, but this looks like a nice kit. I think
I may have to buy a couple of them.
--

Brian Ehni

From: Tom Palmer <remlapmot@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 20:26:25 -0600
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] NP flat kit

Brian,
Try this- http://www.northernspecificmodels.com/ - the stock car is nice.
Best regards,
Tom Palmer
Stafford, (no city taxes) Texas
77477
Modeling the Katy in 1952 in Texas of course.


Bruce Smith
 

On Wed, March 22, 2006 6:56 pm, joe binish wrote:
Fellow freight car nuts,
I receeived my NP 52' flat kit in the mail from Northern Specific models
today. Really nice, enough that I am putting off working on other stuff
that would earn fame and fortune to put it together! I hope to get it
done for an op session this weekend, albeit empty(the lumber load will
have to
wait!)I have no connection with Northern Specific Models, just a happy
customer!
Mine was on the doorstep today too, and I echo the sentiment. The model
has a neat design that will allow weight to be hidden in a false floor, as
well as between the center sills. It looks like a very detailed set of
castings that will go together pretty quickly and make a nicely detailed
52', 50 ton flat.

I plan to model one of the pre WWII 60250-60499 or 63000-63379 series cars
and was wondering what the proper trucks for this car would be.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


pullmanboss <tgmadden@...>
 

Bruce Smith wrote:

I plan to model one of the pre WWII 60250-60499 or 63000-63379
series cars and was wondering what the proper trucks for this car
would be.
Ted Culotta's decal set for the car says Tichy spring plankless double
truss or Proto 2000 AAR self-aligning spring plankless. Ted doesn't
differentiate between the two prewar or one postwar lots for the
trucks, but does mention the difference in decks between lots. I
haven't seen Aaron's flat car instructions but I'm sure he must have
mentioned the deck differences.

Tom Madden


Bruce Smith
 

On Wed, March 22, 2006 9:43 pm, pullmanboss wrote:
Ted Culotta's decal set for the car says Tichy spring plankless double
truss or Proto 2000 AAR self-aligning spring plankless. Ted doesn't
differentiate between the two prewar or one postwar lots for the
trucks, but does mention the difference in decks between lots. I
haven't seen Aaron's flat car instructions but I'm sure he must have
mentioned the deck differences.

Tom Madden
Tom,

Thanks! I have the decals, but didn't think to look there. Yes, Aaron
does mention the non-overlapping decks on the earlier versions. I would
note to the group (adding cellulose to the fire of the earlier deck
discussion <VBG>) that the kit includes a laser cut wooden deck.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Richard Hendrickson
 

On Mar 22, 2006, at 7:24 PM, Bruce Smith wrote:

I plan to model one of the pre WWII 60250-60499 or 63000-63379 series cars
and was wondering what the proper trucks for this car would be.
AAR self-aligning spring-plankless in the photos I have, so Ted C. is (as usual) correct in recommending either the Tichy or P2K trucks. Personally, I'd prefer the Tichy trucks as they are a bit more delicate in appearance and have smaller journal boxes; the boxes on the P2K trucks are more like those on 70 ton rather than 50 ton trucks.

Richard Hendrickson


Tim O'Connor
 

A pair of 1938 photos (NPHS V.19 #1) of two NP flat cars shows two
different trucks -- one with spring planks, and one without. After
looking at several model trucks, the only real choice for a truck
with spring planks is the Accurail, while the Proto2000 plankless
truck is a pretty good match for the other. Unfortunately the journal
box lids on the two models would look better if they could be swapped
to fit the combination of lids and planks found on the prototype. I
think the Tichy truck journals appear too small for these cars.

Tim O'Connor

Bruce Smith wrote:

I plan to model one of the pre WWII 60250-60499 or 63000-63379
series cars and was wondering what the proper trucks for this car
would be.
Ted Culotta's decal set for the car says Tichy spring plankless double
truss or Proto 2000 AAR self-aligning spring plankless. Ted doesn't
differentiate between the two prewar or one postwar lots for the
trucks, but does mention the difference in decks between lots. I
haven't seen Aaron's flat car instructions but I'm sure he must have
mentioned the deck differences.

Tom Madden


Tim O'Connor
 

The 1938 photos do show overlapping decks (I assume you mean wood
that overlaps the side sills?) but the overlap is small, maybe an
inch or a little more.

Tim O'Connor

Tom,

Thanks! I have the decals, but didn't think to look there. Yes, Aaron
does mention the non-overlapping decks on the earlier versions. I would
note to the group (adding cellulose to the fire of the earlier deck
discussion <VBG>) that the kit includes a laser cut wooden deck.

Regards
Bruce


Bruce Smith
 

On Wed, March 22, 2006 11:40 pm, Tim O'Connor wrote:

The 1938 photos do show overlapping decks (I assume you mean wood
that overlaps the side sills?) but the overlap is small, maybe an
inch or a little more.
Yes, I saw that. It looks like the early cars had this very small
overlap, which is what I was calling "no overlap".

Interstingly, the directions have you glue the deck on very early in the
build process, making it hard not to paint the deck while painting the
model. I will likely add the deck later, pre-stained, once the model is
painted.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


joe binish <joebinish@...>
 

Bruce,
You could add the deck later in the instructions, since nothing is done to
it after you attach it to the "underframe". Looking closely at the photos
in Aaron's and Ted's instrucions, it looks to me like the ends of the deck
boards were painted while the side of the car was painted. A little masking
tape should cover the deck while I spray it. (do I loose FCN points if I
didn't add all of the brake piping? There is no documentation for the train
line!) Off to the spray booth.
Joe Binish


Ted Culotta <tculotta@...>
 

On Mar 23, 2006, at 9:45 AM, joe binish wrote:

Bruce,
You could add the deck later in the instructions, since nothing is done to
it after you attach it to the "underframe". Looking closely at the photos
in Aaron's and Ted's instrucions, it looks to me like the ends of the deck
boards were painted while the side of the car was painted. A little masking
tape should cover the deck while I spray it. (do I loose FCN points if I
didn't add all of the brake piping? There is no documentation for the train
line!) Off to the spray booth.
Even though my model is weathered and "finished" the deck is still loose and unattached.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
645 Tanner Marsh Road, Guilford, CT 06437
info@speedwitch.com
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912


SD9E@...
 

Can some one provide contact information to enable getting in touch with
Northern Specific? Thanks, Jeff Pape


leakinmywaders
 

Anybody have a a brake wheel recommendation for Northern Specific's
resin NP flat car? The kit instructions are silent on this subject.
Looks like Aaron maybe used the straight-spoked wheel from the Tichy
kit, but it is flat in cross section, and the prototype wheels, as
best as I can tell, appear to have had spokes descending 2 or 3 inches
concentrically toward the hub.

Also, has anyone checked the deck height on a completed model against
prototype dimensions? I'm wondering if they ride a little high on the
bolsters--if so that could possibly be cured with some simple
modifications. The ORER-listed height to top of sides or platform for
the relevant NP car series is 3ft 11in from rail.

Thanks for getting the decals online, Ted. Best,

Chris Frissell
Polson, MT


Tim O'Connor
 

The W&R brass cars have an elaborate brake wheel, with a fairly
flat profile. I will look at some references tonight and try to figure out
what it is supposed to represent. Appliances like brake wheels might
change from order to order, or even car to car, so it's best to get the
information from an equipment diagram...

Tim O.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "leakinmywaders" <leakinmywaders@yahoo.com>
Anybody have a a brake wheel recommendation for Northern Specific's
resin NP flat car? The kit instructions are silent on this subject.
Looks like Aaron maybe used the straight-spoked wheel from the Tichy


pullmanboss <tgmadden@...>
 

Jeff Pape asked:

Can some one provide contact information to enable getting in touch
with Northern Specific?
From Aaron's web site (www.northernspecificmodels.com):

Npin53 (at) northernspecificmodels (dot) com

Tom Madden


leakinmywaders
 

Tim: As you might have noticed, NP diagrams seldom offer useful
information on brake appliances--e.g.,

http://research.nprha.org/NP%20Flat%20Cars/52%20Ft.%20Flat%20Cars%2064000-195.jpg

So we pretty much are stuck with photo sources (although there could
be relevant data stashed in the NPRHA archives in MN, should anyone
have time to dig for it).

Chris Frissell
Polson, MT

-- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, timboconnor@... wrote:
....
Appliances like brake wheels might
change from order to order, or even car to car, so it's best to get the
information from an equipment diagram...

Tim O.


Tim O'Connor
 

Chris

I'll bet there is another drawing out there... somewhere.. This is just
a "general plan" drawing. There may be a "bill of materials" or other
auxiliary drawings for every freight car. (He said, hopefully.)

Tim

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "leakinmywaders" <leakinmywaders@yahoo.com>
Tim: As you might have noticed, NP diagrams seldom offer useful
information on brake appliances--e.g.,

http://research.nprha.org/NP%20Flat%20Cars/52%20Ft.%20Flat%20Cars%2064000-195.jpg

So we pretty much are stuck with photo sources (although there could
be relevant data stashed in the NPRHA archives in MN, should anyone
have time to dig for it).