Date
1 - 16 of 16
Baking painted styrene models
Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
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----- Original Message -----
From: Denny Anspach
Just how safe is it to bake a painted styrene
model @170� ? I do it all the time with brass
models, but up to now, never anything else.
----- Original Message -----
Not at all. If it doesn't melt them outright they can get soft enough to sag or collapse under their own weight. There have been a number of photos in the modeling press over the years showing models ruined by the lights during a photo shoot.
KL
From: Denny Anspach
Just how safe is it to bake a painted styrene
model @170� ? I do it all the time with brass
models, but up to now, never anything else.
----- Original Message -----
Not at all. If it doesn't melt them outright they can get soft enough to sag or collapse under their own weight. There have been a number of photos in the modeling press over the years showing models ruined by the lights during a photo shoot.
KL
Richard Hendrickson
On Dec 6, 2006, at 11:22 AM, Denny Anspach wrote:
styrene models by simply closing the door on my spray booth and leaving
it with the lights on (2 60W incandescent bulbs), which brings the temp
up to around 120-130°. That works well to reduce drying time (at least
with Scalecoat II, and I assume Accupaint has similar characteristics)
and has never caused a problem.
Richard Hendrickson
Just how safe is it to bake a painted styreneDenny, 170° strikes me as being a bit risky. I bake the paint on
model @170º ? I do it all the time with brass
models, but up to now, never anything else.
My purpose in doing it is to shorten the time between masked coats
(Accupaint).
styrene models by simply closing the door on my spray booth and leaving
it with the lights on (2 60W incandescent bulbs), which brings the temp
up to around 120-130°. That works well to reduce drying time (at least
with Scalecoat II, and I assume Accupaint has similar characteristics)
and has never caused a problem.
Richard Hendrickson
Dennis Storzek <destorzek@...>
--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...>
wrote:
regulation; if you put a reasonably responsive thermometer in the oven
(like a mercury filled glass candy thermometer, the bi-metallic metal
thermometers made for use in ovens are even less accurate than the
oven temperature controls) you'll very likely see it shoot right up to
250 F then drop slowly back to the set point. That initial time at 250
F is guaranteed to ruin your model. Most amorphous plastics like high
impact polystyrene begin to soften at just over 150 F. Once the part
starts to soften, molded in stresses will make it warp and twist, no
matter how evenly it is supported.
Decades ago, when I still lived at home, I used to dry the paint on
models by setting them on a toolbox set a couple of feet from a forced
air space heater. One day my Mom decided the box was a tripping
hazard, and pushed it back against the wall, closer to the heater. It
turned a kitbashed MDC Pullman Palace car into a banana. I almost
thought I could build a yard office from the sway-backed body, until I
realized that the bottom had also spread open more than a couple scale
feet. This in a hot air stream that was not particularly uncomfortable
to hold your hand in.
I'm with Richard on this one. Build a box with a light bulb inside and
do a trial run with a good thermometer to confirm that it doesn't go
over 130 F, then use that to cure plastic models.
Dennis
wrote:
I concur. Household ovens are notorious for poor temperature
On Dec 6, 2006, at 11:22 AM, Denny Anspach wrote:Just how safe is it to bake a painted styreneDenny, 170° strikes me as being a bit risky. I bake the paint on
model @170º ? I do it all the time with brass
models, but up to now, never anything else.
My purpose in doing it is to shorten the time between masked coats
(Accupaint).
styrene models by simply closing the door on my spray booth and leaving
it with the lights on (2 60W incandescent bulbs), which brings the temp
up to around 120-130°. That works well to reduce drying time (at least
with Scalecoat II, and I assume Accupaint has similar characteristics)
and has never caused a problem.
Richard Hendrickson
regulation; if you put a reasonably responsive thermometer in the oven
(like a mercury filled glass candy thermometer, the bi-metallic metal
thermometers made for use in ovens are even less accurate than the
oven temperature controls) you'll very likely see it shoot right up to
250 F then drop slowly back to the set point. That initial time at 250
F is guaranteed to ruin your model. Most amorphous plastics like high
impact polystyrene begin to soften at just over 150 F. Once the part
starts to soften, molded in stresses will make it warp and twist, no
matter how evenly it is supported.
Decades ago, when I still lived at home, I used to dry the paint on
models by setting them on a toolbox set a couple of feet from a forced
air space heater. One day my Mom decided the box was a tripping
hazard, and pushed it back against the wall, closer to the heater. It
turned a kitbashed MDC Pullman Palace car into a banana. I almost
thought I could build a yard office from the sway-backed body, until I
realized that the bottom had also spread open more than a couple scale
feet. This in a hot air stream that was not particularly uncomfortable
to hold your hand in.
I'm with Richard on this one. Build a box with a light bulb inside and
do a trial run with a good thermometer to confirm that it doesn't go
over 130 F, then use that to cure plastic models.
Dennis
Thomas M. Olsen <tmolsen@...>
Hi Denny,
Once, about 20 years ago, I tore apart an AHM PRR 1938 12 Roomette-5 Double Bedroom sleeping car to rebuild it into a 1948 12-4 sleeping car. The model was completed with the exception of applying the decals and finish coat to seal everything. Now, I have a buddy (he is a custom builder) who bakes plastic freight and passenger equipment all the time, but uses an electric roll oven with an electronic temperature control and does so at 125 degrees F and uses an oven temperature thermometer as well to keep a check on the temperature.
At the time, I did not have such an item so had the brilliant idea that I could use the kitchen oven and adjust the temperature with the use of a standard oven thermometer that you could place inside. I did so, waited until the thermometer reached 125 degrees and shut the oven off, then placed the model in the center of the oven. 10 Minutes later, I removed the model only to find that it had curled up like a leaf. It was then that I learned that gas ovens concentrate their heat towards the center and have a tendency to exceed the temperatures that are set even though you may have just shut them off. You just do not have the control over the temperature that you need to do the job properly. If there were any stresses in my model, the excess heat certainly released all of them at one time!
I have never since baked a plastic model in an oven. That little error cost me almost 100 hours of work and until recently, have stuck with brass. Richard, Kurt and Dennis are right regarding temperature control while baking certain materials.
Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@...
Denny Anspach wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Once, about 20 years ago, I tore apart an AHM PRR 1938 12 Roomette-5 Double Bedroom sleeping car to rebuild it into a 1948 12-4 sleeping car. The model was completed with the exception of applying the decals and finish coat to seal everything. Now, I have a buddy (he is a custom builder) who bakes plastic freight and passenger equipment all the time, but uses an electric roll oven with an electronic temperature control and does so at 125 degrees F and uses an oven temperature thermometer as well to keep a check on the temperature.
At the time, I did not have such an item so had the brilliant idea that I could use the kitchen oven and adjust the temperature with the use of a standard oven thermometer that you could place inside. I did so, waited until the thermometer reached 125 degrees and shut the oven off, then placed the model in the center of the oven. 10 Minutes later, I removed the model only to find that it had curled up like a leaf. It was then that I learned that gas ovens concentrate their heat towards the center and have a tendency to exceed the temperatures that are set even though you may have just shut them off. You just do not have the control over the temperature that you need to do the job properly. If there were any stresses in my model, the excess heat certainly released all of them at one time!
I have never since baked a plastic model in an oven. That little error cost me almost 100 hours of work and until recently, have stuck with brass. Richard, Kurt and Dennis are right regarding temperature control while baking certain materials.
Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@...
Denny Anspach wrote:
Just how safe is it to bake a painted styrene
model @170� ? I do it all the time with brass
models, but up to now, never anything else.
My purpose in doing it is to shorten the time between masked coats (Accupaint).
Denny
--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento
docdenny34 <danspach@...>
Richard's and Dennis's comment cement my own lurking suspicion that I just might be
playing with fire, and I am glad to know for the first time that a measured 130º F. is the
top safe temperature. Thank you.
Now, a second question as to Scalecoat I: Is it safe to apply over Floquil or Accupaint
primer? Floquil Barrier? I have always used Scalecoat I without primer, and then only on
brass. I am reluctant to invest in an entire new inventory of Scalecoat II to apply to plastic.
Dennis' good story about a portable heater turning an MDC car into a banana reminds me
of a marriage-shaking episode of my own 30 years ago: I had spent a solid one week of
vacation meticulously multicolor painting with automotive paints an entire brass
passenger train, plus two other brass cars- a LOT of work! At the end of the week I
popped all eight cars into the oven and turned to "warm" (about 200º), and went to relax
and contemplate the week's success. Well, my good wife came along and casually turned
the over up to 450º preparatory for preparing supper! Well, I heard a comment in the
kitchen- "What's THAT SMELL?"
You know the rest. The melted/burned and discolored paint was so baked on that it had to
be removed by sand blasting at the local plating shop- during the process of which most
of the cars became irreversably distorted with excessive air pressure, and soldered joints
TNTC were separated and blown apart.
The whole episode is still so traumatic in memory that the use, or proposed use of the
oven for paint baking is profoundly angst-provoking even to this day.
Postscript: Three years ago, I got out those sorry cars for the first time in all these years
and put them up for sale at our local annual model railroad show. To my amazement they
were snapped up almost immediately, and later in the day I saw them on a dealer's table
for the same sky high prices as perfectly good cars! Since then, I occasionally still one of
two of them as they make their way from unwary dealer to unwary dealer. Caviat Emptor!
Denny
playing with fire, and I am glad to know for the first time that a measured 130º F. is the
top safe temperature. Thank you.
Now, a second question as to Scalecoat I: Is it safe to apply over Floquil or Accupaint
primer? Floquil Barrier? I have always used Scalecoat I without primer, and then only on
brass. I am reluctant to invest in an entire new inventory of Scalecoat II to apply to plastic.
Dennis' good story about a portable heater turning an MDC car into a banana reminds me
of a marriage-shaking episode of my own 30 years ago: I had spent a solid one week of
vacation meticulously multicolor painting with automotive paints an entire brass
passenger train, plus two other brass cars- a LOT of work! At the end of the week I
popped all eight cars into the oven and turned to "warm" (about 200º), and went to relax
and contemplate the week's success. Well, my good wife came along and casually turned
the over up to 450º preparatory for preparing supper! Well, I heard a comment in the
kitchen- "What's THAT SMELL?"
You know the rest. The melted/burned and discolored paint was so baked on that it had to
be removed by sand blasting at the local plating shop- during the process of which most
of the cars became irreversably distorted with excessive air pressure, and soldered joints
TNTC were separated and blown apart.
The whole episode is still so traumatic in memory that the use, or proposed use of the
oven for paint baking is profoundly angst-provoking even to this day.
Postscript: Three years ago, I got out those sorry cars for the first time in all these years
and put them up for sale at our local annual model railroad show. To my amazement they
were snapped up almost immediately, and later in the day I saw them on a dealer's table
for the same sky high prices as perfectly good cars! Since then, I occasionally still one of
two of them as they make their way from unwary dealer to unwary dealer. Caviat Emptor!
Denny
Eugene E. Deimling <losgatos48@...>
Dennis:
I have been painting with Accupaint for 20 years and used a hair
dryer to accelerate the drying process. It also produces a glass-
like finish.
Gene Deimling
Los Gatos, CA
--- In STMFC@..., Denny Anspach <danspach@...> wrote:
I have been painting with Accupaint for 20 years and used a hair
dryer to accelerate the drying process. It also produces a glass-
like finish.
Gene Deimling
Los Gatos, CA
--- In STMFC@..., Denny Anspach <danspach@...> wrote:
(Accupaint).
Just how safe is it to bake a painted styrene
model @170º ? I do it all the time with brass
models, but up to now, never anything else.
My purpose in doing it is to shorten the time between masked coats
Denny
--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento
Greg Martin
Denny,
I bake mine in the sun or under a 60 watt bulb with the model under a clear plastic cake cover that you get in the grocery store. It is far safer and it gives it dust free drying environment. Works for me...
Greg Martin
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Show quoted text
I bake mine in the sun or under a 60 watt bulb with the model under a clear plastic cake cover that you get in the grocery store. It is far safer and it gives it dust free drying environment. Works for me...
Greg Martin
-----Original Message-----
From: danspach@...
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 11:22 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Baking painted styrene models
Just how safe is it to bake a painted styrene
model @170º ? I do it all the time with brass
models, but up to now, never anything else.
My purpose in doing it is to shorten the time between masked coats (Accupaint).
Denny
--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________
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From: danspach@...
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 11:22 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Baking painted styrene models
Just how safe is it to bake a painted styrene
model @170º ? I do it all the time with brass
models, but up to now, never anything else.
My purpose in doing it is to shorten the time between masked coats (Accupaint).
Denny
--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Greg Martin
Tony writes:
Greg Martin wrote:
Com'on Tony stop rubbing it in... That's why I have to fade to the 60 watt
bulb which is roughly equivalent to a really good sunny summer day in
Oregon... <VBG>
This is my favorite joke I have heard and I hear it all the time since I
moved up here from So Cal... What is followed by three days of Rain? Monday...
3^)
Greg Martin
.
Greg Martin wrote:
I bake mine in the sun . . .<<
In Oregon? As if! Guess you must be a really patient guy <vbg>.Tony Thompson<
Com'on Tony stop rubbing it in... That's why I have to fade to the 60 watt
bulb which is roughly equivalent to a really good sunny summer day in
Oregon... <VBG>
This is my favorite joke I have heard and I hear it all the time since I
moved up here from So Cal... What is followed by three days of Rain? Monday...
3^)
Greg Martin
.
Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Greg Martin wrote:
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history
I bake mine in the sun . . .In Oregon? As if! Guess you must be a really patient guy <vbg>.
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history
Thomas M. Olsen <tmolsen@...>
Denny,
I use Scalecoat I over Floquil Zinc Chromate primer all the time and have never had a problem. What I like about the Zinc Chromate is that what ever you spray it over, it covers well with a very light coat. The problems most people have when spraying solvent based paint, whether it is a primer or a finish coat is that they spray the paint too wet and this will cause surface crazing on plastic. Other times they spray too dry and you get a rough surface. I have had no experience with any of the water-based acyrilics. Scalecoat I is my paint of choice. The Metalizer paints from Testor's (these were developed for the automobile modelers) and are excellent paints when you are trying to replicate various types of metal surfaces. Floquil is the old standby for jobs that I do not use Scalecoat for.
In regard to the oven mishaps, I did the same thing twice with a cheap roll oven with two brass PRR freight locos, a B6sb 0-6-0 and an L-1 2-8-2 almost 20 years apart (this was before and after the incident {1976} with the sleeping car). Instead of my wife turning up the roll oven, I did it. It was the thermal type that would cycle on and off when the temperature went above or below the setting. Each time, I had gotten busy with something else and forgotten about the proclivities of this device. I looked down, saw that it was not lit up, and thought (my biggest mistake - "thought"!), that I forgot to turn it on (didn't check to see if I had set it) and turned it up!
The L1s (1971) was in just drying after soaking it in white vinegar after washing it to get rid of the soldering fluxes, whereas the second time with the B6sb (1989), I was just baking a new paint touch-up job in preparation to selling it. Yep! Made kits out of both! The L1s was put back together and finished. The B6sb went into a jar of stripper and eventually was sold for parts to someone who did not care how much work it would take to put it back together.
Fortunately, I have learned my lessons well and stick to the straight and narrow when painting equipment. I have since painted a lot of freight cars in brass, plastic and urethane and have not lost one since.
Tom Olsen
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
docdenny34 wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I use Scalecoat I over Floquil Zinc Chromate primer all the time and have never had a problem. What I like about the Zinc Chromate is that what ever you spray it over, it covers well with a very light coat. The problems most people have when spraying solvent based paint, whether it is a primer or a finish coat is that they spray the paint too wet and this will cause surface crazing on plastic. Other times they spray too dry and you get a rough surface. I have had no experience with any of the water-based acyrilics. Scalecoat I is my paint of choice. The Metalizer paints from Testor's (these were developed for the automobile modelers) and are excellent paints when you are trying to replicate various types of metal surfaces. Floquil is the old standby for jobs that I do not use Scalecoat for.
In regard to the oven mishaps, I did the same thing twice with a cheap roll oven with two brass PRR freight locos, a B6sb 0-6-0 and an L-1 2-8-2 almost 20 years apart (this was before and after the incident {1976} with the sleeping car). Instead of my wife turning up the roll oven, I did it. It was the thermal type that would cycle on and off when the temperature went above or below the setting. Each time, I had gotten busy with something else and forgotten about the proclivities of this device. I looked down, saw that it was not lit up, and thought (my biggest mistake - "thought"!), that I forgot to turn it on (didn't check to see if I had set it) and turned it up!
The L1s (1971) was in just drying after soaking it in white vinegar after washing it to get rid of the soldering fluxes, whereas the second time with the B6sb (1989), I was just baking a new paint touch-up job in preparation to selling it. Yep! Made kits out of both! The L1s was put back together and finished. The B6sb went into a jar of stripper and eventually was sold for parts to someone who did not care how much work it would take to put it back together.
Fortunately, I have learned my lessons well and stick to the straight and narrow when painting equipment. I have since painted a lot of freight cars in brass, plastic and urethane and have not lost one since.
Tom Olsen
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
docdenny34 wrote:
Richard's and Dennis's comment cement my own lurking suspicion that I just might be
playing with fire, and I am glad to know for the first time that a measured 130� F. is the
top safe temperature. Thank you.
Now, a second question as to Scalecoat I: Is it safe to apply over Floquil or Accupaint
primer? Floquil Barrier? I have always used Scalecoat I without primer, and then only on
brass. I am reluctant to invest in an entire new inventory of Scalecoat II to apply to plastic.
Dennis' good story about a portable heater turning an MDC car into a banana reminds me
of a marriage-shaking episode of my own 30 years ago: I had spent a solid one week of
vacation meticulously multicolor painting with automotive paints an entire brass
passenger train, plus two other brass cars- a LOT of work! At the end of the week I
popped all eight cars into the oven and turned to "warm" (about 200�), and went to relax
and contemplate the week's success. Well, my good wife came along and casually turned
the over up to 450� preparatory for preparing supper! Well, I heard a comment in the
kitchen- "What's THAT SMELL?"
You know the rest. The melted/burned and discolored paint was so baked on that it had to
be removed by sand blasting at the local plating shop- during the process of which most
of the cars became irreversably distorted with excessive air pressure, and soldered joints
TNTC were separated and blown apart.
The whole episode is still so traumatic in memory that the use, or proposed use of the
oven for paint baking is profoundly angst-provoking even to this day.
Postscript: Three years ago, I got out those sorry cars for the first time in all these years
and put them up for sale at our local annual model railroad show. To my amazement they
were snapped up almost immediately, and later in the day I saw them on a dealer's table
for the same sky high prices as perfectly good cars! Since then, I occasionally still one of
two of them as they make their way from unwary dealer to unwary dealer. Caviat Emptor!
Denny
Peter J. McClosky <pmcclosky@...>
Come on Tony, I saw the sun yesterday. (For about an hour.) [Big Grin!!!]
Of course our high temp yesterday was 39 degrees! [Not so big a grin!]
Peter J. McClosky
=======
Anthony Thompson wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Of course our high temp yesterday was 39 degrees! [Not so big a grin!]
Peter J. McClosky
=======
Anthony Thompson wrote:
Greg Martin wrote:I bake mine in the sun . . .In Oregon? As if! Guess you must be a really patient guy <vbg>.
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail,
thompson@... <mailto:thompson%40signaturepress.com>
Publishers of books on railroad history
rfederle@...
I think the sun comes through windows at times.
Robert Federle
---- "Peter J. McClosky" <pmcclosky@...> wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Robert Federle
---- "Peter J. McClosky" <pmcclosky@...> wrote:
Come on Tony, I saw the sun yesterday. (For about an hour.) [Big Grin!!!]
Of course our high temp yesterday was 39 degrees! [Not so big a grin!]
Peter J. McClosky
=======
Anthony Thompson wrote:Greg Martin wrote:I bake mine in the sun . . .In Oregon? As if! Guess you must be a really patient guy <vbg>.
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail,
thompson@... <mailto:thompson%40signaturepress.com>
Publishers of books on railroad history
--
--
Peter J. McClosky
http://home.earthlink.net/~pmcclosky
pmcclosky@...
Greg Martin
Then Tony replies to Richard:
Richard Hendrickson wrote:
with most regions of Oregon <g>. <
Richard is right the area he lives in is beautiful... It reminds me of parts
of the Napa Valley, and if I could find work down that way I might live
there as well, the old SP main line can been seen from nearly ever restaurant in
town and on a warm summers evening it is a joy to stroll and hope to see a
train and the old semaphores drop (yes they still have semaphores in Richard's
neck of the woods) and I can just imagine a drag freight with some 40s-50s era
SP flats with lumber loads headed south (mandatory STMC content) roaring
through town.
But alas as Tony says I live in Salem in the Willamette Valley and make the
commute north to Portland in the mostly overcast and drizzle... Someone told
me that the good Lord turns the faucet on the second week of October and
turns it off around the end of May... And as my father reminded me before I moved
up," just get your hat and coat and go..." and I do. I wouldn't move back to
SO CAL for nuttin'... I often cruise on downtown Salem and just imagine how
it would have been to see these SP lumber trains headin' south with carload
after carload of lumber and paper... Or the OE/SP&S headed east (north) to
Portland with the same on the old 663 and 664 headed up with some smokey noisy
ALCo FA/Bs...
Salem was/is the home of John E. Davis, who often had an article our two
each year to share in Mainline Modeler and now he is gone, but we still have
Stan Townsen and Ed Austin and a few other guys some might recognize... All good
Steam era modelers...
Greg Martin
.
Richard Hendrickson wrote:
Wait a minute, guys. Greg lives in the Willamette Valley, where it
does rain a lot. But let's not over-generalize here . . .
Greg lives where most people in Oregon live. The generalizationis perfectly appropriate. As Richard well knows, I'm quite familiar
with most regions of Oregon <g>. <
Richard is right the area he lives in is beautiful... It reminds me of parts
of the Napa Valley, and if I could find work down that way I might live
there as well, the old SP main line can been seen from nearly ever restaurant in
town and on a warm summers evening it is a joy to stroll and hope to see a
train and the old semaphores drop (yes they still have semaphores in Richard's
neck of the woods) and I can just imagine a drag freight with some 40s-50s era
SP flats with lumber loads headed south (mandatory STMC content) roaring
through town.
But alas as Tony says I live in Salem in the Willamette Valley and make the
commute north to Portland in the mostly overcast and drizzle... Someone told
me that the good Lord turns the faucet on the second week of October and
turns it off around the end of May... And as my father reminded me before I moved
up," just get your hat and coat and go..." and I do. I wouldn't move back to
SO CAL for nuttin'... I often cruise on downtown Salem and just imagine how
it would have been to see these SP lumber trains headin' south with carload
after carload of lumber and paper... Or the OE/SP&S headed east (north) to
Portland with the same on the old 663 and 664 headed up with some smokey noisy
ALCo FA/Bs...
Salem was/is the home of John E. Davis, who often had an article our two
each year to share in Mainline Modeler and now he is gone, but we still have
Stan Townsen and Ed Austin and a few other guys some might recognize... All good
Steam era modelers...
Greg Martin
.
Richard Hendrickson
On Dec 6, 2006, at 10:23 PM, tgregmrtn@... wrote:
does rain a lot. But let's not over-generalize here. The Rogue
Valley, where I live in Oregon, gets only moderate rainfall (and
occasional light snow) in the winter, and it hardly ever rains here
between April and October. And most of Oregon east of the Cascades
–i.e., more than half of the state – is high desert, just like Nevada, where rainfall is relatively rare. Where Tony lives in Berkeley,
coastal fog is common almost every morning, but that doesn't mean it's
foggy everywhere in California. Now, back to steam era freight cars.
Richard Hendrickson
Tony writes:
Greg Martin wrote:Wait a minute, guys. Greg lives in the Willamette Valley, where itI bake mine in the sun . . .<<In Oregon? As if! Guess you must be a really patient guy <vbg>.Tony Thompson<
Com'on Tony stop rubbing it in... That's why I have to fade to the 60
watt
bulb which is roughly equivalent to a really good sunny summer day in
Oregon... <VBG>
This is my favorite joke I have heard and I hear it all the time
since I
moved up here from So Cal... What is followed by three days of Rain?
Monday...
3^)
does rain a lot. But let's not over-generalize here. The Rogue
Valley, where I live in Oregon, gets only moderate rainfall (and
occasional light snow) in the winter, and it hardly ever rains here
between April and October. And most of Oregon east of the Cascades
–i.e., more than half of the state – is high desert, just like Nevada, where rainfall is relatively rare. Where Tony lives in Berkeley,
coastal fog is common almost every morning, but that doesn't mean it's
foggy everywhere in California. Now, back to steam era freight cars.
Richard Hendrickson
Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Richard Hendrickson wrote:
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history
Wait a minute, guys. Greg lives in the Willamette Valley, where it does rain a lot. But let's not over-generalize here . . .Greg lives where most people in Oregon live. The generalization is perfectly appropriate. As Richard well knows, I'm quite familiar with most regions of Oregon <g>.
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history