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Ohmygod - Baking painted styrene models
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rgspemkt@...
In a message dated 12/6/2006 1:48:47 P.M. Central Standard Time,
danspach@... writes: Just how safe is it to bake a painted styrene model @170º ? I do it all the time with brass models, but up to now, never anything else. Denny, Say it ain't so!! Don't do it, please!!! <G> Richard is correct - A couple of 40 or 60 Watt bulbs would be the warmest heat source I would use on plastic. And, those bulbs will melt and contort the plastic if you're not careful to keep them far enough away. My suggestion would be to take a cardboard box the size of a copy paper box, toss the lid, set the box on its side, put the model about two inches in front of the back wall and aim a couple of light bulbs in there, with the bulbs no closer to the model than the front of the box. Even then, keep a very close eye on things. Of course, you'll want to turn the model every once in awhile (minutes) so all painted sides get exposed to your lightbulb(s). A small fan is useful, too, to force air through the box, which not only pushes the heat around, but also helps speed up the solvent evaporation process. Good Luck!!! John John Hitzeman President/Owner American Model Builders, Inc. LASERkit (tm) St. Louis, MO _www.rgspemkt.com _ (http://www.rgspemkt.com/) _www.ambstlouis.net _ (http://www.ambstlouis.net/) _www.laserkit.com _ (http://www.laserkit.com/) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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rfederle@...
If a model is available of the same material it might be wise to try this light box with that first. I would hate to ruin a model after hours of work getting just right.
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Might also consider trying a "Greenhouse". A glass baking dish, a small thermometer and sunlight. Again use a model of the same material to experiment. Robert Federle ---- rgspemkt@... wrote:
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Ok gang,
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I can't take this any more! An incandescent bulb can be just as dangerous as an oven to the plastic. My experience with acrylic paints is that they dry very rapidly ALL BY THEMSELVES (usually right inside the %$#@# airbrush <G>). Denny - I'm not sure what the rush is, but most of my models are ready for the second coat in 15 minutes or less. If you really want to make that faster, use a hair dryer, set on low... but again, heat is dangerous!! There is no need for a "heat cure" with an acrylic paint. If your acrylic painted models are taking longer to dry, you are most likely using too much paint. Multiple light coats is the cure. Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/ "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield." __ / \ __<+--+>________________\__/___ ________________________________ |- ______/ O O \_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ | | / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 \ | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__|| |/_____________________________\|_|________________________________| | O--O \0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0 On Dec 6, 2006, at 4:30 PM, <rfederle@...> wrote:
If a model is available of the same material it might be wise to |
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Dennis Storzek <destorzek@...>
--- In STMFC@..., Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
I think Doc mentioned Scalecoat I paint somewhere along the line. Scalecoat is an enamel, not a lacquer, as the resin film gains its strength from molecular cross linking. A Scalecoat finish can stay quite soft for a long time unless it gets an elevated temperature cure to speed the formation of molecular bonds. That's why custom painters that use the stuff always bake brass models. In theory, the finish should eventually cure just as well at room temperature, but it takes weeks. I've had the bad experience of rubbing the paint off etched rivet detail a week after the paint was applied to a brass/plastic composite model I couldn't bake; very disconcerting. Indeed, I've gone back to mostly Accupaint, which develops a harder surface much more quickly. Dennis |
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Brian Paul Ehni <behni@...>
With the added benefit that multiple light coats are less likely to hide
detail, too. -- Thanks! Brian Ehni From: Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> Reply-To: <STMFC@...> Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 16:49:47 -0600 To: <STMFC@...> Subject: Re: [STMFC] Ohmygod - Baking painted styrene models Ok gang, I can't take this any more! An incandescent bulb can be just as dangerous as an oven to the plastic. My experience with acrylic paints is that they dry very rapidly ALL BY THEMSELVES (usually right inside the %$#@# airbrush <G>). Denny - I'm not sure what the rush is, but most of my models are ready for the second coat in 15 minutes or less. If you really want to make that faster, use a hair dryer, set on low... but again, heat is dangerous!! There is no need for a "heat cure" with an acrylic paint. If your acrylic painted models are taking longer to dry, you are most likely using too much paint. Multiple light coats is the cure. Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/ "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield." __ / \ __<+--+>________________\__/___ ________________________________ |- ______/ O O \_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ | | / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 \ | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__|| |/_____________________________\|_|________________________________| | O--O \0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0 |
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