pencil weathering


Tim O'Connor
 

Garth

Not just wooden freight cars. I use pencils to simulate the rubbing
of radial bands on tank cars, to highlight rivets on any car, to shade
or add rust or grime to door hardware, ladder rungs, walkways, etc.
Artist's pencils are pigment based so this is just another way of
depositing pigments, the other ways include spraying, wet brush,
or dry brush. And of course, there's no better way to add chalk marks
than an artist's pencil.

Tim O'

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Garth G. Groff" <ggg9y@...>

I recently sprayed a styrene wooden grain elevator barn red. I was going
to give it a wash of diluted black paint. Then I had the idea of
experimenting with colored pencils. I went down to the art store and
bought three high-quality reddish brown pencils, plus a medium gray. I
randomly worked the individual boards with the pencils, plus some
smudging and the black wash. The result was quite realistic to my eye
and turned a nice, but unspectacular, structure into something I'm quite
proud of.

So now I'm thinking that a similar technique could easily be used on
wooden freight cars. It seems a natural technique for adding color
variation over a base coat. I think this would look especially good on
yellow or orange refrigerator cars, where replacement of boards added
quite a bit of variation (see Tony's book).

Any takers?


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Tim's right. You should be aware that there are two varieties of color pencils. Prismacolor
pencils are the Cadillac of pencils, IMHO, and work extremely well on moderately abrasive surfaces,
like wood, and flat painted styrene, and some metal objects. They are chalky in character, but not
as dry as actual chalk. There are also "Derwent" pencils, also very high quality, made in England,
which are more oil-based, and behave differently. I'm not quite sure I can really describe how they
behave, so I won't try, except to say that they do work somewhat better on smoother surfaces.

You'll also see Color-ase pencils. Don't bother.

SGL
La vita e breve, mangiate prima il dolce!

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On
Behalf Of timboconnor@...
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 2:49 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: pencil weathering

Garth

Not just wooden freight cars. I use pencils to simulate the rubbing
of radial bands on tank cars, to highlight rivets on any car, to shade
or add rust or grime to door hardware, ladder rungs, walkways, etc.
Artist's pencils are pigment based so this is just another way of
depositing pigments, the other ways include spraying, wet brush,
or dry brush. And of course, there's no better way to add chalk marks
than an artist's pencil.

Tim O'

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Garth G. Groff" <ggg9y@...
<mailto:ggg9y%40virginia.edu> >

I recently sprayed a styrene wooden grain elevator barn
red. I was going
to give it a wash of diluted black paint. Then I had the idea of
experimenting with colored pencils. I went down to the art
store and
bought three high-quality reddish brown pencils, plus a
medium gray. I
randomly worked the individual boards with the pencils, plus some
smudging and the black wash. The result was quite realistic
to my eye
and turned a nice, but unspectacular, structure into
something I'm quite
proud of.

So now I'm thinking that a similar technique could easily
be used on
wooden freight cars. It seems a natural technique for adding color
variation over a base coat. I think this would look
especially good on
yellow or orange refrigerator cars, where replacement of
boards added
quite a bit of variation (see Tony's book).

Any takers?



Rob & Bev Manley
 

As some of you who attended the last Naperville RPM show know, weathering was a hot topic. It seems that a few of us who gave up the fine arts to chase trains and build freight cars have gone back to the art stores and our roots to look for more alternative ways to weather. Yes the old Paasche is a fine tool but with the advent of the waterbased acrylics it has a less fine application than the deadly oil-based paints. What to do? I was altready using washes and dry brushing but wasn't as happy with chalk. It just dissappeared when the flat coat hit it.

My wife Bev who some of you met works for an art store and after listening to these discussions has reminded me that the colored pencils must not be a wax based as they would repel any flat overspray. They would also have a glossy look and may not be desireable on a model. The type we bought are Sanford Prismacolor Watercolor for about $1.00 each and have a great variety of earth tones as well as colors like Peach, Cream, Orange and Indigo blue. I have a photo of a Cinese Red Q boxcar that shows a dark Cyan or indigo hue in the shadows of a rivet panel. That is where you can use your blues for weathering. Or on a C&O Geep or RS use a lighter blue to highlight the panel edges for a faded chalky look. A good example is the effect Ted Rose had with his watercolors using non model railroading weathering colors to breathe life into his work. A lot of his work wasn't as detailed as our resin cars but it conveyed the same feeling.

Remember, Model Railroading isn't FUN, It's hard work.
"And if you want to be an artist, you got to learn to suffer!" ---Fractured Fairy Tales
Rob Manley

----- Original Message -----
From: Schuyler Larrabee
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 8:37 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: pencil weathering


Tim's right. You should be aware that there are two varieties of color pencils. Prismacolor
pencils are the Cadillac of pencils, IMHO, and work extremely well on moderately abrasive surfaces,
like wood, and flat painted styrene, and some metal objects. They are chalky in character, but not
as dry as actual chalk. There are also "Derwent" pencils, also very high quality, made in England,
which are more oil-based, and behave differently. I'm not quite sure I can really describe how they
behave, so I won't try, except to say that they do work somewhat better on smoother surfaces.

You'll also see Color-ase pencils. Don't bother.

SGL
La vita e breve, mangiate prima il dolce!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On
> Behalf Of timboconnor@...
> Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 2:49 PM
> To: STMFC@...
> Subject: [STMFC] Re: pencil weathering
>
> Garth
>
> Not just wooden freight cars. I use pencils to simulate the rubbing
> of radial bands on tank cars, to highlight rivets on any car, to shade
> or add rust or grime to door hardware, ladder rungs, walkways, etc.
> Artist's pencils are pigment based so this is just another way of
> depositing pigments, the other ways include spraying, wet brush,
> or dry brush. And of course, there's no better way to add chalk marks
> than an artist's pencil.
>
> Tim O'
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Garth G. Groff" <ggg9y@...
> <mailto:ggg9y%40virginia.edu> >
>
> > I recently sprayed a styrene wooden grain elevator barn
> red. I was going
> > to give it a wash of diluted black paint. Then I had the idea of
> > experimenting with colored pencils. I went down to the art
> store and
> > bought three high-quality reddish brown pencils, plus a
> medium gray. I
> > randomly worked the individual boards with the pencils, plus some
> > smudging and the black wash. The result was quite realistic
> to my eye
> > and turned a nice, but unspectacular, structure into
> something I'm quite
> > proud of.
> >
> > So now I'm thinking that a similar technique could easily
> be used on
> > wooden freight cars. It seems a natural technique for adding color
> > variation over a base coat. I think this would look
> especially good on
> > yellow or orange refrigerator cars, where replacement of
> boards added
> > quite a bit of variation (see Tony's book).
> >
> > Any takers?
>
>
>
>