Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights.


Peter J. McClosky <pmcclosky@...>
 

None of the Hobby shops up here carry "Stick on Weights".

I went to every auto parts store I could find (before giving up) and
could not fine any. Most of the clerks in these stores had no idea what
I was talking about. When I explained that they were used to balance
alloy wheels they "got it"

Then I went to a tire store, and while the would not sell me any they
had in stock ("I would not have any to use"), they did pre order me 1
box each of 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz stick on weights.

I think I got a life time supply, without paying for shipping (and lead
is heavy!!!).

Peter
===

Jon Miller wrote:

...Lead is good but hard to get these days. Wheel
weights are not bad (lead) but you need to mail-order in CA.

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pmcclosky@comcast.net


Mont Switzer <mhts_switzerm@...>
 

I prefer the stick on lead weights like what Peter has on order. I get mine from A-line and probably pay a little more for them to be able to buy in small quantities.

These weights are small and heavy. I try to install them over the car trucks on house cars. This leaves the floor clean if I want to model the door in the open position.

I still don't have a "pat system" for weighting open top cars.

Mont Switzer

"Peter J. McClosky" <pmcclosky@comcast.net> wrote:
None of the Hobby shops up here carry "Stick on Weights".

I went to every auto parts store I could find (before giving up) and
could not fine any. Most of the clerks in these stores had no idea what
I was talking about. When I explained that they were used to balance
alloy wheels they "got it"

Then I went to a tire store, and while the would not sell me any they
had in stock ("I would not have any to use"), they did pre order me 1
box each of 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz stick on weights.

I think I got a life time supply, without paying for shipping (and lead
is heavy!!!).

Peter
===

Jon Miller wrote:

...Lead is good but hard to get these days. Wheel
weights are not bad (lead) but you need to mail-order in CA.

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---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.


Schuyler Larrabee
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Mont Switzer <mhts_switzerm@...> wrote:

I prefer the stick on lead weights like what Peter has on order. I
get mine from A-line and probably pay a little more for them to be able
to buy in small quantities.

These weights are small and heavy. I try to install them over the
car trucks on house cars. This leaves the floor clean if I want to
model the door in the open position.

I still don't have a "pat system" for weighting open top cars.

Mont Switzer
You can buy these by the pound on eBay. Search for (you guessed
it) "Stick on weights." Least expensive, but you may need to find some
buddies to go in on it with you.

SGL


Philip Dove <philip.dove@...>
 

Peter
How many weights are there in a box, and how much did they cost? I got a bag of old wheel weights from a Tyre fitting shop for nothing from when they rebalanced wheels, but most were curved weights with steel clips and whatever type they were they were really filthy. I have some lead, it was a feed pipe to a toilet cistern, but a bit of cutting and hammering converted it into sheets of metal. The virtue of coins is you know the weight of them before you start, and you probably have some in stock. I also got a load of used air gun pellets from a showman at a Midway It took a surprising amount of effort to get the bits of paper target separated out. As someone else said off cuts of roof flashing are probably easiest if you can get it. I've seen Athearn cars (steel axles and steel weights) move slightly if they are spotted over a coupling magnet.
Regards Philip Dove

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter J. McClosky
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 14 August 2007 18:08
Subject: [STMFC] Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights.


None of the Hobby shops up here carry "Stick on Weights".

I went to every auto parts store I could find (before giving up) and
could not fine any. Most of the clerks in these stores had no idea what
I was talking about. When I explained that they were used to balance
alloy wheels they "got it"

Then I went to a tire store, and while the would not sell me any they
had in stock ("I would not have any to use"), they did pre order me 1
box each of 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz stick on weights.

I think I got a life time supply, without paying for shipping (and lead
is heavy!!!).

Peter
===

Jon Miller wrote:

> ...Lead is good but hard to get these days. Wheel
> weights are not bad (lead) but you need to mail-order in CA.
>
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http://home.earthlink.net/~pmcclosky
pmcclosky@comcast.net


Rob & Bev Manley
 

Mont,
My son worksat Discount tire and has a box full of old stick on weights. They pull the weights off and run the wheel on the computer balancer and add new weights. A little clean up and some new foam tape and you're all set.
I picked up a dandy postal scale for $16.99 @ Office Depot. I used it on my Monon cars.

Rob Manley

----- Original Message -----
From: Mont Switzer
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights.


I prefer the stick on lead weights like what Peter has on order. I get mine from A-line and probably pay a little more for them to be able to buy in small quantities.

These weights are small and heavy. I try to install them over the car trucks on house cars. This leaves the floor clean if I want to model the door in the open position.

I still don't have a "pat system" for weighting open top cars.

Mont Switzer

"Peter J. McClosky" <pmcclosky@comcast.net> wrote:
None of the Hobby shops up here carry "Stick on Weights".

I went to every auto parts store I could find (before giving up) and
could not fine any. Most of the clerks in these stores had no idea what
I was talking about. When I explained that they were used to balance
alloy wheels they "got it"

Then I went to a tire store, and while the would not sell me any they
had in stock ("I would not have any to use"), they did pre order me 1
box each of 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz stick on weights.

I think I got a life time supply, without paying for shipping (and lead
is heavy!!!).

Peter
===

Jon Miller wrote:

> ...Lead is good but hard to get these days. Wheel
> weights are not bad (lead) but you need to mail-order in CA.
>
> Recent Activity
>
> *
> 5
> New Members
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/members;_ylc=X3oDMTJmM3JzZWIxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BHNlYwN2dGwEc2xrA3ZtYnJzBHN0aW1lAzExODcxMTAyOTc->
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> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads;_ylc=X3oDMTJjbzRrc3JnBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BF9wAzMEZ3JwSWQDMjU1NDc1MwRncnBzcElkAzE3MDUxNjk3MjUEc2VjA3NsbW9kBHN0aW1lAzExODcxMTAyOTk-?t=ms&k=Recreation+travel&w1=Freight+car&w2=Train+travel&w3=Recreation+travel&w4=Train+travel+in+usa&w5=Train+travel+vacation&c=5&s=110&g=2&.sig=4AkJasXHh7cwbseTSGtGYg>
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--
--
Peter J. McClosky
http://home.earthlink.net/~pmcclosky
pmcclosky@comcast.net



---------------------------------
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Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Rob Manley wrote:
I picked up a dandy postal scale for $16.99 @ Office Depot. I used it on my Monon cars.
Um, in place of couplers? glued onto the roof? <g>

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Peter J. McClosky <pmcclosky@...>
 

Hello Philip,

There are 624 1/4 oz weights in the 1/4 oz box, and 360 in the 1/2 oz box.

I paid about $94.00 (total) for the box of 1/4 oz weights and the other
box of 1/2 oz weights.

The 1/4 oz weights come in at about $0.08 apiece (or $0.32 per ounce)
and the 1/2 oz weights cost about $0.15 apiece (or $0.30 per ounce).

I know this is more than pennies cost, but they are much denser, and are
easier to work with.

I have also use lead shot from a metal store. These are about 1/8 inch
in diameter. When used on a car, they are not nearly as dense (a lot of
empty space between pellets) as the solid lead. I like the "denseness"
of the solid lead, as it lowers the center of gravity of the car.

Peter J. McClosky
======

Philip Dove wrote:
<>Peter
How many weights are there in a box, and how much did they cost? I got
a bag of old wheel weights from a Tyre fitting shop for nothing from
when they rebalanced wheels, but most were curved weights with steel
clips and whatever type they were they were really filthy. I have some
lead, it was a feed pipe to a toilet cistern, but a bit of cutting and
hammering converted it into sheets of metal. The virtue of coins is
you know the weight of them before you start, and you probably have
some in stock. I also got a load of used air gun pellets from a
showman at a Midway It took a surprising amount of effort to get the
bits of paper target separated out. As someone else said off cuts of
roof flashing are probably easiest if you can get it. I've seen
Athearn cars (steel axles and steel weights) move slightly if they are
spotted over a coupling magnet.
Regards Philip Dove
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter J. McClosky
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: 14 August 2007 18:08
Subject: [STMFC] Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights.

None of the Hobby shops up here carry "Stick on Weights".

I went to every auto parts store I could find (before giving up) and
could not fine any. Most of the clerks in these stores had no idea what
I was talking about. When I explained that they were used to balance
alloy wheels they "got it"

Then I went to a tire store, and while the would not sell me any they
had in stock ("I would not have any to use"), they did pre order me 1
box each of 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz stick on weights.

I think I got a life time supply, without paying for shipping (and lead
is heavy!!!).

Peter
===

Jon Miller wrote:

...Lead is good but hard to get these days. Wheel
weights are not bad (lead) but you need to mail-order in CA.
--
--
Peter J. McClosky
http://home.earthlink.net/~pmcclosky
pmcclosky@comcast.net


Lindsay smith <wlindsays2000@...>
 

The manufacturer sells cases of the wheel weights that weigh about 360 pouinds. So the car parts guys are reluctant to have a slow mover in big quantity on the shelf. PPW or A-Line sells it in reasonable size packages.

I made some special sized weights from the zinc sheets from the Dentist X-ray film packs. I used some of the wife's waste nail polish to glue it into a mass.
L:ots of junk will work in covered cars, I have fun stuffing straws for "pipe loads" in my gons.

LIndsay


---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.


Douglas Harding <dharding@...>
 

About 5/6 years ago I went to my local tire dealer and asked about stick on
weights, the kind used on alloy wheels. They wouldn't sell me a handful, but
did offer to get me a box the next time they needed some. Took a month or
so, but I got a box of 360 count 1/2 oz weights (11+ lbs) and a box of 360
count 1/4 oz weights (5.5+ lbs), all for less that $50. And because they
came on the regular tire delivery truck from the warehouse, no shipping
charges. Nice living in a small town.

And they have to use something to balance tires in California, so check your
local tire dealer. I have essentially a lifetime supply. And the adhesive is
tough, remember these things stick to wheels rotating at highways speeds
over all kinds of roads.

Doug Harding
www.iowacentralrr.org


jim_mischke <jmischke@...>
 

I went to my local Discount Tire store and successfully bummed ten
pounds of used lead weights (for balancing tires). They thought it
was a total hoot I was going to put them in little model boxcars.

They pay a hazardous waste disposal fee for discarding these used
lead weights. Giving them away to me saves them a little money.

In the ten pounds, there is a wide variety of shapes and sizes, about
a third of the weights are mishapen and not particularly usable.
All are covered with brake dust, wipe them off before using. Lead
is toxic, wash your hands immediately after handling them.

To flatted them a little, I put the good ones in a vice and squeezed
the steel grab down in profile.

I use these as extra weight, bonding them to a standard steel boxcar
weight. The regular flat steel weight serves as a skid.

I attach the lead weight to the steel weight, then the steel weight
to the car floor, both with Barge contact cement. Don't use too
much. Don't use Walthers Goo, it attacks plastic by warping it.

If I applied the lead weight directly to the plastic boxcar floor, I
would tend to use too much contact cement, a hazard to plastic.
Also, contact cement works best with mating two flat surfaces.

Most of our boxcars are glued together and buttoned up tight. Take
care putting in the weight, overengineer it. You will not enjoy
prying apart the boxcar to reattach a loose weight.





--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote:

Mont,
My son worksat Discount tire and has a box full of old stick on
weights. They pull the weights off and run the wheel on the computer
balancer and add new weights. A little clean up and some new foam
tape and you're all set.
I picked up a dandy postal scale for $16.99 @ Office Depot. I used
it on my Monon cars.

Rob Manley


----- Original Message -----
From: Mont Switzer
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights.


I prefer the stick on lead weights like what Peter has on order.
I get mine from A-line and probably pay a little more for them to be
able to buy in small quantities.

These weights are small and heavy. I try to install them over the
car trucks on house cars. This leaves the floor clean if I want to
model the door in the open position.

I still don't have a "pat system" for weighting open top cars.

Mont Switzer

"Peter J. McClosky" <pmcclosky@...> wrote:
None of the Hobby shops up here carry "Stick on Weights".

I went to every auto parts store I could find (before giving up)
and
could not fine any. Most of the clerks in these stores had no
idea what
I was talking about. When I explained that they were used to
balance
alloy wheels they "got it"

Then I went to a tire store, and while the would not sell me any
they
had in stock ("I would not have any to use"), they did pre order
me 1
box each of 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz stick on weights.

I think I got a life time supply, without paying for shipping
(and lead
is heavy!!!).

Peter
===

Jon Miller wrote:

> ...Lead is good but hard to get these days. Wheel
> weights are not bad (lead) but you need to mail-order in CA.
>
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t0xT4835fOuLGHcWBR5zw>
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travel&w4=Train+travel+in+usa&w5=Train+travel+vacation&c=5&s=110&g=2&.
sig=4AkJasXHh7cwbseTSGtGYg>
> * Train travel in usa
>
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wAzQEZ3JwSWQDMjU1NDc1MwRncnBzcElkAzE3MDUxNjk3MjUEc2VjA3NsbW9kBHN0aW1lA
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=2&.sig=XRYGBWb2ZYsNjCJB30amfg>
>
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> Game Day Companion
>
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127rhacnf/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49017/*http://digitalhome.yahoo.
com/sports>
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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578/D=groups/S=1705169725:NC/Y=YAHOO/EXP=1187117499/A=3848618/R=0/SIG=
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_ylu=X3oDMTA2MnU4czRtBHNlYwNzbg-->
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>
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>
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10t28jksf/*http://tv.yahoo.com/lineup/>
>
> Check listings to
>
> see what is on.
>
> .

--
--
Peter J. McClosky
http://home.earthlink.net/~pmcclosky
pmcclosky@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos
new Car Finder tool.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rob & Bev Manley
 

Jim,
I use the professional 3M double stick foam tape. You may be able to buy it at the local big box stores or online like I do for my job. Mc Master-carr is one outlet.it's way neater than any contact cement and doesn't leach or off-gas fumes and warp car bodies years later.

Rob Manley

----- Original Message -----
From: jim_mischke
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:12 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights.




I went to my local Discount Tire store and successfully bummed ten
pounds of used lead weights (for balancing tires). They thought it
was a total hoot I was going to put them in little model boxcars.

They pay a hazardous waste disposal fee for discarding these used
lead weights. Giving them away to me saves them a little money.

In the ten pounds, there is a wide variety of shapes and sizes, about
a third of the weights are mishapen and not particularly usable.
All are covered with brake dust, wipe them off before using. Lead
is toxic, wash your hands immediately after handling them.

To flatted them a little, I put the good ones in a vice and squeezed
the steel grab down in profile.

I use these as extra weight, bonding them to a standard steel boxcar
weight. The regular flat steel weight serves as a skid.

I attach the lead weight to the steel weight, then the steel weight
to the car floor, both with Barge contact cement. Don't use too
much. Don't use Walthers Goo, it attacks plastic by warping it.

If I applied the lead weight directly to the plastic boxcar floor, I
would tend to use too much contact cement, a hazard to plastic.
Also, contact cement works best with mating two flat surfaces.

Most of our boxcars are glued together and buttoned up tight. Take
care putting in the weight, overengineer it. You will not enjoy
prying apart the boxcar to reattach a loose weight.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote:
>
> Mont,
> My son worksat Discount tire and has a box full of old stick on
weights. They pull the weights off and run the wheel on the computer
balancer and add new weights. A little clean up and some new foam
tape and you're all set.
> I picked up a dandy postal scale for $16.99 @ Office Depot. I used
it on my Monon cars.
>
> Rob Manley
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mont Switzer
> To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [STMFC] Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights.
>
>
> I prefer the stick on lead weights like what Peter has on order.
I get mine from A-line and probably pay a little more for them to be
able to buy in small quantities.
>
> These weights are small and heavy. I try to install them over the
car trucks on house cars. This leaves the floor clean if I want to
model the door in the open position.
>
> I still don't have a "pat system" for weighting open top cars.
>
> Mont Switzer
>
> "Peter J. McClosky" <pmcclosky@...> wrote:
> None of the Hobby shops up here carry "Stick on Weights".
>
> I went to every auto parts store I could find (before giving up)
and
> could not fine any. Most of the clerks in these stores had no
idea what
> I was talking about. When I explained that they were used to
balance
> alloy wheels they "got it"
>
> Then I went to a tire store, and while the would not sell me any
they
> had in stock ("I would not have any to use"), they did pre order
me 1
> box each of 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz stick on weights.
>
> I think I got a life time supply, without paying for shipping
(and lead
> is heavy!!!).
>
> Peter
> ===
>
> Jon Miller wrote:
>
> > ...Lead is good but hard to get these days. Wheel
> > weights are not bad (lead) but you need to mail-order in CA.
> >
> > Recent Activity
> >
> > *
> > 5
> > New Members
> >
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/members;_ylc=X3oDMTJmM3JzZWIxBF9T
Azk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BHNlYwN2dGwEc2
xrA3ZtYnJzBHN0aW1lAzExODcxMTAyOTc->
> > *
> > 3
> > New Photos
> >
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/spnew;_ylc=X3oDMTJmaGVqbTA2BF9TAz
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BHNlYwN2dGwEc2xr
A3ZwaG90BHN0aW1lAzExODcxMTAyOTc->
> > *
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> >
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A3ZmaWxlcwRzdGltZQMxMTg3MTEwMjk3>
> >
> > Visit Your Group
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Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

I use the professional 3M double stick foam tape....it's way neater than any contact cement and doesn't leach or off-gas fumes and warp car bodies years later.
As has been discussed thoroughly for some time, and presuming both tape and cement have been applied properly:

Sticky tape is just fine except that no one knows exactly how long these sticky foam tapes will in fact last.

The latter statement re: contact cement is un substantiated urban myth throughout and should be firmly retired- forever.

Denny


--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa


Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Denny Anspach replied to:

...it's way neater than any contact cement and doesn't leach or off-gas fumes and warp car bodies years later.
The latter statement re: contact cement is un substantiated urban myth throughout and should be firmly retired- forever.
Denny, you make this statement ASSUMING contact cement was applied "properly," though no one really knows how long to let solvent evaporate to be "dry enough" and in any case, if it all evaporates, it isn't cement any longer. I submit that neither you nor anyone is certain what "properly" means.
As I said previously, I'd be happy to show you some Athearn box car floors which took years to warp with "contact" Goo. "Myth," my behind.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Jon Miller <atsf@...>
 

Just to add fuel, what about water based contact cements. There are a few out there or at least there used to be.

Jon Miller
AT&SF
For me time has stopped in 1941
Digitrax, Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI user
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Charles Morrill
 

I've had the same experience with this "Myth" --- at least the Goo version. I had a HO plastic flat car which took on a very "John Allen" shape due to the contact cement holding the wood lumber load to the deck. Eventually the Kadee couplers were aimed so far skyward that they would not couple with any other car. Then there were the passenger car plastic diaphragm striker plates that were taking the shape of a horizontal U because of the ever shrinking string of Goo used to attach them to the diaphragm. None of these examples happened within a few days or even months of the Goo being used in the assembly. It took a few years.
Charlie

----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Thompson" <thompson@signaturepress.com>
Denny, you make this statement ASSUMING contact cement was
applied "properly," though no one really knows how long to let solvent
evaporate to be "dry enough" and in any case, if it all evaporates, it
isn't cement any longer. I submit that neither you nor anyone is
certain what "properly" means.
As I said previously, I'd be happy to show you some Athearn
box car floors which took years to warp with "contact" Goo. "Myth," my
behind.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Tony writes-
As I said previously, I'd be happy to show you some Athearn
box car floors which took years to warp with "contact" Goo. "Myth," my
behind.
H-mmm. From glue originally improperly piled on thick like Ambroid and then contact closed improperly before its time? But from "fumes" wafting around for years in a closed car body?? Oh, come on!

I submit that neither you nor anyone is certain what "properly" means.
Well, perhaps a grain of truth if one presumes that no one has a ounce of judgment, nor the will to exercise it. Beyond that this assertion is untenable on its very face, much less in the face of very long term common successful experience to the contrary.

Urban myth it certainly is, and in the cold light of day it will so remain, However, witness the current flare-up, which like a Phoenix arises once more to further falsely discourage a lot of modelers from using a very well proven, VERY handy, and long lasting class of cements.

Sheesh!

What more can I say?

I rest my case.

Denny
--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa


Jim Williams <wwww5960@...>
 

Hi.....The warping is not a result of an action with fumes but from the Goo itself. Goo never completely drys, and the solvent in it will continue to attack the surface for years. This will result in the warping as the the plastic surface constricts. This is much more noticable with the quanity and thickness of the Goo application, ie, "heaped" on a surface as when you are securing weights.....By the way I've personally seen the result on F&C resin kits, after 5 years two gons were so twisted they would stay on the track and the Goo was open to air....Best Jim Williams



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