Georgia RR cars (was Not boxcar red)


al_brown03
 

I have this car in the paint shop. We discussed it in about February
or March, I *thought* on this group though archive searches haven't
found it. (I must be using the wrong keywords.) In essence:

Like Messrs. Lucas and Monk I've had the Tichy kit for years; I
started it last summer, found out about the incorrect roof, and
stopped. At that point I only knew about the radial roof which seemed
daunting. (Has someone made a radial-roof conversion kit? I vaguely
recall someone has, but I forget who.)

At Cocoa Beach last winter, Bruce Smith displayed a real nice model
of the car with the *welded* roof, which IIRC he produced by filing
the car lines almost all the way off, and calling their barely-
visible remnants the weld beads. This was the first I'd heard of the
welded roof, and it looked good. So I got out my car, and filed off
the car lines. Bruce was most generous with helpful comments as was
Richard Hendrickson.

In the course of the aforementioned group discussion that I can't
find, someone mentioned measuring one of these cars, and said the
roof sheets overlapped by 6" or so. Deciding to model that, I
put .010" x .060" styrene strips where the car lines had been. That's
too thick -- should be more like .0014" to represent 1/8" sheets
overlapping. (Various list members suggested thinner plastic foils or
strips, which however tended to crinkle when I glued them.) So I
filed the strips back down to a thickness somewhere near right (just
thick enough that the file didn't tear them -- should've switched to
sandpaper), and feathered the edges. I haven't seen a down-on photo
of the prototype roof, but from a "ground" angle my roof looks OK.

That was laborious and I wouldn't do it that way again. Either I'd
file the existing car lines down to the right thickness, and widen
them with putty; or I'd file them all the way off as I did, but
instead of styrene put on strips of Bare-Metal foil. I did a test
shot of Bare-Metal on a scrap sheet and it gave the desired barely-
visible smooth effect after painting. But my roof was built by then.

I'll bring the car to Cocoa Beach and y'all can tell me how bad it
looks. I would be open to modifying the roof some more if
photographic evidence so demands.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


Bruce Smith
 

On May 20, 2008, at 7:30 AM, al_brown03 wrote:
(Has someone made a radial-roof conversion kit? I vaguely
recall someone has, but I forget who.)
Speedwitch, but it was not a regular product line kit.

At Cocoa Beach last winter, Bruce Smith displayed a real nice model
of the car with the *welded* roof, which IIRC he produced by filing
the car lines almost all the way off, and calling their barely-
visible remnants the weld beads.
Al is too kind... what I tried to do was shave and then file them completely off, and then not bother about the weld lines <G>. The roof is basically flat. In photos, you can see the overlapping metal pieces from the side, but just barely. I did need to fabricate new running board supports too.


Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
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Monk Alan <Alan.Monk@...>
 

Thanks to Bruce and Al for the info - I too recall a recent(ish)
discussion about the roofs of these cars, but also couldn't find it in
the group archive.

Any chance of a pic or two of your welded roof Bruce??

I'll take the file to the roof of mine tonight, may have a play with
replicating overlapping sheets using some ultra-thin brass foil.

Cheers guys,
Alan,
London, UK

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Smith



On May 20, 2008, at 7:30 AM, al_brown03 wrote:
> (Has someone made a radial-roof conversion kit? I vaguely
> recall someone has, but I forget who.)

Speedwitch, but it was not a regular product line kit.
>
> At Cocoa Beach last winter, Bruce Smith displayed a real nice
model
> of the car with the *welded* roof, which IIRC he produced by
filing
> the car lines almost all the way off, and calling their
barely-
> visible remnants the weld beads.

Al is too kind... what I tried to do was shave and then file
them
completely off, and then not bother about the weld lines <G>.
The
roof is basically flat. In photos, you can see the overlapping
metal
pieces from the side, but just barely. I did need to fabricate
new
running board supports too.

Regards
Bruce


.

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sgId=72604/stime=1211288501/nc1=4430620/nc2=3848614/nc3=4763758>



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Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam@...>
 

Deciding to model that, I
put .010" x .060" styrene strips where the car lines had been. That's
too thick -- should be more like .0014" to represent 1/8" sheets
overlapping. (Various list members suggested thinner plastic foils or
strips, which however tended to crinkle when I glued them.) So I
filed the strips back down to a thickness somewhere near right (just
thick enough that the file didn't tear them -- should've switched to
sandpaper), and feathered the edges. I haven't seen a down-on photo
of the prototype roof, but from a "ground" angle my roof looks OK.<<

Foil, paper or parcel tape cut into strips the width of the panels
works well for this sort of thing - just overlap the strips a scale 6
inches or so and press down. If you're using paper, seal it with
shellac before painting

Aidrian


Bruce Smith
 

Alan asked:

Thanks to Bruce and Al for the info - I too recall a recent(ish)
discussion about the roofs of these cars, but also couldn't find it in
the group archive.

Any chance of a pic or two of your welded roof Bruce??
I've posted two shots of my model to the Files section:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/Georgia%20RR%20USRA%20box% 20car%20model/GeorgiaUSRA.jpg
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/Georgia%20RR%20USRA%20box% 20car%20model/GeorgiaUSRA2.jpg

Hope this helps!

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

I used Bare-Metal foil to add "new steel" to a Westerfield CASO
boxcar, using this photo for reference.

http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/images/caso-138113-1.jpg

After painting the car with Scalecoat #2 Red Oxide, I was very
pleased with the effect created by using this foil. The stuff is
about .001-.002" thick.

Steve Lucas.




--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton"
<smokeandsteam@...> wrote:

Deciding to model that, I
put .010" x .060" styrene strips where the car lines had been.
That's
too thick -- should be more like .0014" to represent 1/8" sheets
overlapping. (Various list members suggested thinner plastic foils
or
strips, which however tended to crinkle when I glued them.) So I
filed the strips back down to a thickness somewhere near right (just
thick enough that the file didn't tear them -- should've switched to
sandpaper), and feathered the edges. I haven't seen a down-on photo
of the prototype roof, but from a "ground" angle my roof looks OK.<<

Foil, paper or parcel tape cut into strips the width of the panels
works well for this sort of thing - just overlap the strips a scale
6
inches or so and press down. If you're using paper, seal it with
shellac before painting

Aidrian


Monk Alan <Alan.Monk@...>
 

Bruce,

that certainly does help, thanks very much - nice bit of modelling there
:)

Regards,
Alan

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Smith
Sent: 22 May 2008 13:54


Alan asked:

> Thanks to Bruce and Al for the info - I too recall a
recent(ish)
> discussion about the roofs of these cars, but also couldn't
find it in
> the group archive.
>
> Any chance of a pic or two of your welded roof Bruce??

I've posted two shots of my model to the Files section:


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/Georgia%20RR%20USRA%20box%
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/Georgia%20RR%20USRA%20box%>
20car%20model/GeorgiaUSRA.jpg

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/Georgia%20RR%20USRA%20box%
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/Georgia%20RR%20USRA%20box%>
20car%20model/GeorgiaUSRA2.jpg

Hope this helps!

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith

.

<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=2554753/grpspId=1705169725/m
sgId=72702/stime=1211460847/nc1=4430620/nc2=3848607/nc3=4025321>



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The contents of the e-mail and any transmitted files are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Transport for London hereby exclude any warranty and any liability as to the quality or accuracy of the contents of this email and any attached transmitted files. If you are not the intended recipient be advised that you have received this email in error and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing or copying of this email is strictly prohibited., If you have received this email in error please notify postmaster@tfl.gov.uk., This email has been sent from Transport for London, or from one of the companies within its control within the meaning of Part V of the Local Government and Housing Act 1989. Further details about TfL and its subsidiary companies can be found at http://www.tfl.gov.uk/ourcompany, This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept for the presence of computer viruses.
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Tim O'Connor
 

I was contemplating whether to try something like that with
one of Ted Culotta's Wabash single sheathed box cars.... unless
Ted plans to release steel side versions.

Tim O'Connor

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@yahoo.ca>
I used Bare-Metal foil to add "new steel" to a Westerfield CASO
boxcar, using this photo for reference.

http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/images/caso-138113-1.jpg

After painting the car with Scalecoat #2 Red Oxide, I was very
pleased with the effect created by using this foil. The stuff is
about .001-.002" thick.

Steve Lucas.


Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, timboconnor@... wrote:


I was contemplating whether to try something like that with
one of Ted Culotta's Wabash single sheathed box cars....
Tim--

I'm not sure what you plan to do, exactly. What I used the Bare-
Metal for was to simulate sheet steel welded onto the lower part of a
car side to replace rusted-out material. I'm thinking of using it to
make new roof "panels" for a "welded roof" to replace the one on the
Tichy Georgia RR steel-sided USRA boxcar rebuild.

But, how did you plan to use the foil on the Wabash car? Looks
interesting, and I'm ALWAYS interested in new techniques.

Steve Lucas.




-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@...>
I used Bare-Metal foil to add "new steel" to a Westerfield CASO
boxcar, using this photo for reference.

http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/images/caso-138113-1.jpg

After painting the car with Scalecoat #2 Red Oxide, I was very
pleased with the effect created by using this foil. The stuff is
about .001-.002" thick.

Steve Lucas.


Tim O'Connor
 

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@yahoo.ca>
But, how did you plan to use the foil on the Wabash car? Looks
interesting, and I'm ALWAYS interested in new techniques.
I was thinking of just covering the scribed wood. But the foil may
be too thin for this application. I'm more likely to use aluminum
HVAC tape, which is thicker and has a strong adhesive backing.
I've used it to build very small details like brackets and gussets.

Tim O'


Bruce Smith
 

On Thu, May 22, 2008 5:04 pm, timboconnor@comcast.net wrote:
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@yahoo.ca>
But, how did you plan to use the foil on the Wabash car? Looks
interesting, and I'm ALWAYS interested in new techniques.
I was thinking of just covering the scribed wood. But the foil may
be too thin for this application. I'm more likely to use aluminum
HVAC tape, which is thicker and has a strong adhesive backing.
I've used it to build very small details like brackets and gussets.

Tim O'
Tim,

The foil is far too thin. It conforms to the details and would nicely
show the scribed wood below it. For a really radical solution, why not
remove the sheathing by sanding the back of the side and replace it with
styrene or brass. Mont Switzer did this on an Intermountain PRR USRA gon
a few years back... of course, he didn't have to do the sanding part as
the wood sides are separate on that model ;^)

Regards
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL