Date
1 - 10 of 10
Taking Apart a Sunshine Model
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golden1014
Gentlemen,
I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car) that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC? Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing it, but nothing's worked. Thanks! John John Golden Bloomington, IN Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet 15 & 16 August, 2008 Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all |
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Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
John--
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Some nail polish remover or acetone, perhaps? Be very careful using this stuff around any styrene details on the car, though. Steve Lucas. --- In STMFC@..., John Golden <golden1014@...> wrote:
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James Fellows
I disaseebled an F&C NH coach by droping a Lecia M3 on it. Unfortunitly I ended up with many more parts then the kit came with.
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Jim Fellows -------------- Original message --------------
From: John Golden <golden1014@...> Gentlemen, I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car) that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC? Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing it, but nothing's worked. Thanks! John John Golden Bloomington, IN Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet 15 & 16 August, 2008 Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all |
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Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
John,
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I have deconstructed a couple resin kits that needed more patience to get right. One thing i found is being able to "gently" tweak a small screw driver on the seams; another way is with a new razor blade and a lot of slow motion; and the trusty exacto blade which can be slid along a seam. It takes time and patience. If you hurry the task, it gets bigger to repair. Once you get it apart, remember to lightly sand off the CA residue to insure a complete bond when reassembling. Thankfully, I have not had to remove minute details. Others on this list may have better ideas on this one. Most time when it happens to me, I end up drilling tiny holes and insetring wire stiffeners to hold everything together. Hope this helps with your question. Fred Freitas --- On Tue, 6/10/08, jamesfellows@... <jamesfellows@...> wrote:
From: jamesfellows@... <jamesfellows@...> Subject: Re: [STMFC] Taking Apart a Sunshine Model To: STMFC@... Date: Tuesday, June 10, 2008, 3:11 PM I disaseebled an F&C NH coach by droping a Lecia M3 on it. Unfortunitly I ended up with many more parts then the kit came with. Jim Fellows ------------ -- Original message ------------ -- From: John Golden <golden1014@yahoo. com> Gentlemen, I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car) that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC? Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing it, but nothing's worked. Thanks! John John Golden Bloomington, IN Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet 15 & 16 August, 2008 Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at http://www.pbase. com/golden1014/ 2006_st_louis_ rpm_meet& page=all |
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-I haven't tried this myself but I'm led to believe ACC weakens in
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freezing temps so if you put the finished model in the freezer for a while it should be relatively easy to pry apart. Bob Weston -- In STMFC@..., John Golden <golden1014@...> wrote:
Gentlemen,
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Mike Fortney
John, I've had good fortune using Uncure, a 30-120 second ACC debonder
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which was custom-labeled for the LHS. I kept the joint coated with Uncure using a Q-tip, then gently started working the parts apart. It does take almost the entire two minutes to loosen but once the joint separation starts, it's a piece o' cake. Uncure turns the ACC into a gooey paste which cleans right off with NO damage to the resin parts and NO marring of the surfaces. Uncure is also handy to remove the errant glob of ACC which can otherwise mar a model's surface. Mike Fortney --- In STMFC@..., John Golden <golden1014@...> wrote:
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Tony Higgins
I have never taken a whole model apart but I have successfully de
bonded body joints I was unhappy with. I used acetone and a q-tip. Just keep soaking the q-tip and wiping the joint. It takes time but it'll eventually weaken the joint. Be careful and you can get it apart without breaking. Tony Higgins --- In STMFC@..., "oandle" <oandle@...> wrote: a while it should be relatively easy to pry apart. |
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golden1014
Mike, All,
Thanks for all the great ideas on how to de-construct a resin model. The problem is that this SAL round-roof box car has a huge, thick roof casting and the body did not assemble properly. I assembled it once and did a poor job, and used debonder to disassemble it. I assembled it again and this time used a lot of ACC, and it still didn't fit right. This time I can't get it apart. I'll try the debonder you mentioned, and if that doesn't work try some straight acetone. If nothing else works, I'll try the Leica method. Maybe an old Nikon would work? John Golden Bloomington, IN --- In STMFC@..., "itc_725" <emfour@...> wrote: debonder which was custom-labeled for the LHS. I kept the joint coated withIt does take almost the entire two minutes to loosen but once thejoint separation starts, it's a piece o' cake. Uncure turns the ACC intoa gooey paste which cleans right off with NO damage to the resinparts and NO marring of the surfaces. Uncure is also handy to remove the |
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rwitt_2000 <rmwitt@...>
John Golden wrote:
" The problem is that this SAL round-roof box car has a huge, thick roof casting and the body did not assemble properly." Martin did the B&O M-27 versions with the Tatum roof also with a very thick casting for the roof. When I build mine I intend to scratch build the roof per the article in Railroad Model Craftsman by Bob Chapman using a Red Caboose ARA roof casting as the starting point. It seems that the model will be top heavy and not track well using the thick roof casting. I would be interested in learning from those that have assembled these two kits if they had any problems actually operating these models. Bob Witt |
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Tony Higgins
I built this model last year, and was also concerned by top heaviness
from the thick roof casting. I set my drill press up to a fixed depth and drilled out most of the material with a 1/4" drill. I forgot to weigh it before and after, but I estimate I reduced it's weight by nearly half. When I get my layout running, I'll see how it does. -Tony Higgins --- In STMFC@..., "rwitt_2000" <rmwitt@...> wrote: roof casting and the body did not assemble properly."<snip> It seems that the model will be top heavy and not track well using the thickroof casting. I would be interested in learning from those that haveoperating these models. |
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