Date
1 - 12 of 12
Wooden Craftsman Kits
|
SUVCWORR@...
I have Ambroid kits I built 40 years ago. I used Ambroid's cement without
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
incident. Apply several coats of sanding sealer to the model before painting (sand between each coat) then there is no issue with water or decal solvent being absorbed by the wood. It works best if the sealer is applied after the basic car is built but before the detail parts are added. Rich Orr In a message dated 11/3/2008 7:38:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
hacketet@... writes: The oldest wooden models I have on the layout are about 30 years old. I built them with plain old Elmer's White Glue. The stuff holds up well over the years. However, if you apply decals to an assembled model, it will come apart. White glue is water soluble. The water also swells the wood and that doesn't help things either. To avoid this problem paint and decal the sides or other components before assembly. --- In STMFC@..., "lnerj72" <lnerj72@...> wrote:
------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) |
|
|
|
lnerj72 <lnerj72@...>
Hi Everyone,
A quick question, I am about to start on some wooden freight car kits from various manufacturers (Pacific Pike, Ambroid, Juneco, etc) and I was wondering what would be the best glue to use for the wooden portions? Weld-bond, yellow carpenters glue, regular white glue, CA? I am thinking about using Weld-Bond as it seems to be the crazy glue of white glues. Cheers Iain |
|
|
|
Ray Meyer
My best results have been with plain old white glue. CA is a bad choice for
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
wood. If you ever have a question, this is a good site: http://www.thistothat.com/ On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 4:43 PM, lnerj72 <lnerj72@...> wrote:
Hi Everyone, --
Atty Raymond G. Meyer 110 E. Main St Port Washington, WI 53074 262-284-5566 rgmeyer2@... |
|
|
|
Ray Meyer
BTW< her's this to that's take on Weldbond:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
http://www.thistothat.com/glue/weldbond.shtml On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 5:06 PM, Ray Meyer <rgmeyer2@...> wrote:
My best results have been with plain old white glue. CA is a bad choice --
Atty Raymond G. Meyer 110 E. Main St Port Washington, WI 53074 262-284-5566 rgmeyer2@... |
|
|
|
Earl T. Hackett <hacketet@...>
The oldest wooden models I have on the layout are about 30 years old.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I built them with plain old Elmer's White Glue. The stuff holds up well over the years. However, if you apply decals to an assembled model, it will come apart. White glue is water soluble. The water also swells the wood and that doesn't help things either. To avoid this problem paint and decal the sides or other components before assembly. --- In STMFC@..., "lnerj72" <lnerj72@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Spen Kellogg <spenkellogg@...>
lnerj72 wrote:
Iain, I have had very good luck using a canopy glue from Pacer. I don't have any handy so I am not sure of the name, but it starts with Formula and then a number. It's very similar to white glue. That is a trick I learned from Scotty Mason. Regards, Spen Kellogg . |
|
|
|
Cyril Durrenberger
I have not had that problem if dry transfers are used and the car is built with white glue. I have had some on the layout for 35 years and they still look pretty much like they did years ago. Some are LaBelle kits and others are scratch built from wood, before styrene was available. I have used decals on some of the cars, but have not had much problem except in one case. Paint the car well before applying to seal it and then use a minimal amount of water. Canopy glue is great too.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Cyril Durrenberger --- On Mon, 11/3/08, Earl T. Hackett <hacketet@...> wrote:
From: Earl T. Hackett <hacketet@...> Subject: [STMFC] Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits To: STMFC@... Date: Monday, November 3, 2008, 4:38 PM The oldest wooden models I have on the layout are about 30 years old. I built them with plain old Elmer's White Glue. The stuff holds up well over the years. However, if you apply decals to an assembled model, it will come apart. White glue is water soluble. The water also swells the wood and that doesn't help things either. To avoid this problem paint and decal the sides or other components before assembly. --- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, "lnerj72" <lnerj72@... > wrote: Hi Everyone, A quick question, I am about to start on some wooden freight car kits from various manufacturers (Pacific Pike, Ambroid, Juneco, etc) and I was wondering what would be the best glue to use for the wooden portions? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
|
|
Schuyler Larrabee
I had a few cars that curled up from decaling water like that. Not much fun trying to reassemble a
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
car on the fly while also trying to make sure the decals are in the right place and not getting folded over. The worst one was an Olympia Beer reefer kit (manufacturer long since forgotten). The decals were bedsheets across the sides, so it took a LOT of water to a) get them off the backer sheets, and b) float them into position on the sides. My decal-application techniques have improves a little (!) since then, but I later learned (on the next car, for instance) that a couple coats of sanding sealer (model aircraft "dope" works really well) along with some sanding to get a smooth surface seals the wood sufficiently that you don't have nearly so much chance of having the car sides curl up on you. Just be sure to use the back of an X-acto knife to clear out the scribing, or it gets full of dust which the next coat of sealer makes a pretty permanent part of the siding. Don't get too aggressive with the knife and rescribe everything too deeply - you can split the wood (and how does he know that, I wonder?). Just clean out the grooves. If it does split, glue some paper to the back side, and seal that, too. I used 400 grit paper at the end of the process, starting with 220 or 320. This also has a tendency to make the scribing a bit more subtle, which is a good thing, and pretty much eliminates raised grain issues which can really make a car look like s***. Seal both sides, before you start assembling anything. Roof and floor, too, but you probably can skip the end blocks. Oh, right, the original question was about glue: Elmer's yellow carpenter glue. Sets up fairly quickly and is VERY strong. Better, IMHO, than white. SGL From: Earl T. Hackett |
|
|
|
Schuyler Larrabee
I have Ambroid kits I built 40 years ago. I used Ambroid's cement withoutWell, different strokes for different folks. I detest Ambroid cement. SGL |
|
|
|
Ray Meyer
Whatever you use, sealing the wood before painting is absolutely necessary
for long term survival, especially in humid climates. Shellac is my choice. My experience with sanding sealers is that the car in the end looks like a plastic or resin car; my use of wood is to avoid that specifically. [I'm of the "only wood looks like wood" persuasion. Yeah, I know many others differ.] -- Atty Raymond G. Meyer 110 E. Main St Port Washington, WI 53074 262-284-5566 rgmeyer2@... |
|
|
|
ed_mines
--- In STMFC@..., "lnerj72" <lnerj72@...> asked:
what would be the best glue to useI liked to use white glue when I first started building wood models 30 years ago but I found that some model railroad paints (Floquil) wouldn't cover the glue joints. Prior to assembly I now seal wood with diluted Scalecoat sanding sealer (without stiring in the pigment from the bottom) or diluted Ambroid cement (MEK as thinner). Usually I sprayed both sides of the wood with either of the coating solutions; in the beginning the wood will soak it up like a sponge soaks up water. If you only coat one side it is apt to curl up. I like to use Ambroid cement for assembly. Some of the newer ones mentioned might be as good or even better. Don't spray car assembled with Ambroid cement with either of the coatings mentioned above. The MEK will dissolve the glue joints. Sealing the wood is important. I've seen wood sides shrink enought so gaps between pieces can easily be seen. I had sides warp from decal setting solution too. In additions to the sealents mentioned above I successfully used a waterborne sealent sold by Floquil, shellac, and a polyurethane wood sealer - all for sealing wood. Don't mix them though. MEK redissolved the polyurethane sealent ruining some wood parts. Ed |
|
|
|
Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
I have long savored the satisfaction of building refined wood car kits (Ambroid, Northeastern, Weaver, Suncoast, etc.), and the very best glue to use these days is white glue, either the fancy kind such as Canopy Cement or Microscale MicroClear, or the cheapest kind such as Elmer's or a clone. These glues are forgiving, hold up very well, and are easily cleaned up with water alone. The latter is a special advantage inasmuch as the slower set up allows the builder to completely clean/soak up spills or squeeze-outs with damp or wet Q- tips, pipe cleaners, etc.
All the white glues are "water-resistant". What this means is that ultimately the set-up glue will always be water soluble, but it will always take some time to be so- a circumstance that in practicality makes this feature a moot issue in the building of wood kits that will not ordinarily be immersed in water, or will not be residing in a Turkish bath. To avoid allowing glue (any kind) spills or squeeze outs from soaking into the wood before they can be sponged away, all the wood should be first sealed, most easily with a very fine sanding sealer (still available at R-C hobby sources= "Hot Fuel Proof"). Such sealers are essentially clear lacquer loaded with pumice or talc. If this very important preliminary step is performed, the kit builder has a clear road ahead in creating extremely clean and sharp glue joints free of glue, or glue effects outside the joint itself. Of course, this preliminary sealing of all the wood is also what ultimately will make the difference between a model that can be quite outstanding, versus one that can be beautifully built, but which will never be able to be satisfactorily painted. I also have models built years ago with Ambroid cement. This holds up well, but most models built with it are spoiled because the glue was so difficult to clean up, AND the glue soaked right in to wood that was never sealed. I have salvaged one model by soaking it in an acetone bath, which quite effectively "re-kitted" the completed model. Denny Denny S. Anspach MD Sacramento |
|
|