Topics

Lifelike Fowler CN


red_gate_rover
 

In an impulse purchase I picked up a LifeLike Canada Fowler boxcar. It
came without the underframe and trucks. What underframe could I use
and whose trucks would be right? Also the shell is painted and
lettered for CN but has no data. Who sells data and other markings for
this car and what resource do I need to know where things should go?
I model 1929. As always, thank you. -Jim


Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

Jim---

Best suggestion that I have is to use it for a car body shed on the
ground. True Line Trains (Life-Like Canada's successor) has advertised
a re-make of this car, and the photos in their ad show it to be a very
nice model.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., "red_gate_rover" <red_gate_rover@...>
wrote:

In an impulse purchase I picked up a LifeLike Canada Fowler boxcar. It
came without the underframe and trucks. What underframe could I use
and whose trucks would be right? Also the shell is painted and
lettered for CN but has no data. Who sells data and other markings for
this car and what resource do I need to know where things should go?
I model 1929. As always, thank you. -Jim


red_gate_rover
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@...> wrote:

Jim---

Best suggestion that I have is to use it for a car body shed on the
ground. True Line Trains (Life-Like Canada's successor) has advertised
a re-make of this car, and the photos in their ad show it to be a very
nice model.

Good idea, but I model Maine two footers and this is supposed to help
me represent a standard gauge train in Farmington where there wasn't
such a shed. I knew about the plans for True Line to redo this car
and still hope it happens. However, the owner announced here a couple
of weeks ago that the project is on hold indefinitely due to errors in
the tooling and expenses mounting up. So I bought this on a whim,
not knowing that it didn't come with a frame. Live and learn. -Jim


Walter Cox
 

Hi Jim, This car is actually a model of a CP car rather than a CN. I
don't know what type of lettetring CP was using in 1929 but there is a
CP sig where you could get such info. I model CN (1959) so I'm not
familiar with what the lettering looked like in 1929 but I think I
could dig it up if you need it. I picked up a pair of CP shells and the
only underframes that I have found so far that would fit are
Westerfield, Speedwitch and an old MDC 36' boxcar which would need
would need work. I don,know if any of them are available separately.
Walt


-- In STMFC@..., "red_gate_rover" <red_gate_rover@...>
wrote:

In an impulse purchase I picked up a LifeLike Canada Fowler boxcar. It
came without the underframe and trucks. What underframe could I use
and whose trucks would be right? Also the shell is painted and
lettered for CN but has no data. Who sells data and other markings for
this car and what resource do I need to know where things should go?
I model 1929. As always, thank you. -Jim


W.R.Dixon
 

red_gate_rover wrote:
In an impulse purchase I picked up a LifeLike Canada Fowler boxcar. It
came without the underframe and trucks. What underframe could I use
and whose trucks would be right? Also the shell is painted and
lettered for CN but has no data. Who sells data and other markings for
this car and what resource do I need to know where things should go? I model 1929. As always, thank you. -Jim
When LifeLike Canada first produced these cars they screwed them up. Some came with incomplete lettering. They responded by supplying complete new shells. Stores were allowed to do what they wanted with the bad shells. Most gave them to the car purchasers as a bonus. Some sold them.

Other than the original incorrect under frame there is nothing that the shell will drop on. You will have to make something your self. I would start with a Westerfield kit and copy their under frame in styrene.

Bill Dixon


Robert kirkham
 

I know of a fellow who was looking in to getting a resin floor made for these shells. Last I heard the project was moving along. If scratch building one doesn't interest you, I think I would wait until something like that is available (assuming it turns out adequately.)

By the way, given the equal slope of the diagonal side bracing, I wouldn't call it a CPR car. If yours has a steel roof, I'd consider sanding off the ribs and gluing on new ones to look more CNR-ish. Maybe add a piece of light rail (centered on the ends) as a third vertical brace. Alternately, using a combination of ACC de-bonder and Easy Lift Off paint remover, I was able to slide a razor blade under the side bracing, removing the two vertical braces closest to the door, as well as the diagonal braces. I filled the original mounting holes and adjusted everything to get a more appropriate spacing and make it look more CPR-ish. While you're at it, consider removing all the ladders and grabs and replacing with lighter wire.....

Rob Kirkham


pierreoliver2003 <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Given all the remedial work seemingly required for this body shell,
wouldn't it be simpler to acquire a Speedwitch or Westerfield kit of
the desired car? One wonders...

Pierre Oliver


--- In STMFC@..., "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@...> wrote:

I know of a fellow who was looking in to getting a resin floor made
for
these shells. Last I heard the project was moving along. If
scratch
building one doesn't interest you, I think I would wait until
something like
that is available (assuming it turns out adequately.)

By the way, given the equal slope of the diagonal side bracing, I
wouldn't
call it a CPR car. If yours has a steel roof, I'd consider
sanding off the
ribs and gluing on new ones to look more CNR-ish. Maybe add a
piece of
light rail (centered on the ends) as a third vertical brace.
Alternately,
using a combination of ACC de-bonder and Easy Lift Off paint
remover, I was
able to slide a razor blade under the side bracing, removing the
two
vertical braces closest to the door, as well as the diagonal
braces. I
filled the original mounting holes and adjusted everything to get a
more
appropriate spacing and make it look more CPR-ish. While you're at
it,
consider removing all the ladders and grabs and replacing with
lighter
wire.....

Rob Kirkham


red_gate_rover
 

--- In STMFC@..., "pierreoliver2003" <pierre.oliver@...>
wrote:


Given all the remedial work seemingly required for this body shell,
wouldn't it be simpler to acquire a Speedwitch or Westerfield kit
of
the desired car? One wonders...

Pierre Oliver

Well I thought I was buying a car that just needed trucks and with
some weathering would be a good backgroung model (close enough for
me) for my narrow gauge/standard gauge transfer yard. This car seemed
to have appropriate lettering for 1929. Now I know that I should have
let it pass. I should just build a few more of the accurate kits and
stop trying to save myself time with RTR stuff. There are only a
handful of RTR 1920s era cars available for the period I model that
have 1920s lettering and K brakes. Most everying that I see
advertised as in use from the 1920s has 40s era lettering. Thanks
to all for the suggestions. -Jim


Mark
 

Good point, Jim. Every time I pull one of those RTR I find problems.

Mark Morgan

--- On Mon, 12/8/08, red_gate_rover <red_gate_rover@...> wrote:
From: red_gate_rover <red_gate_rover@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Lifelike Fowler CN
To: STMFC@...
Date: Monday, December 8, 2008, 6:10 PM











--- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, "pierreoliver2003" <pierre.oliver@ ...>

wrote:

Given all the remedial work seemingly required for this body shell,
wouldn't it be simpler to acquire a Speedwitch or Westerfield kit
of

the desired car? One wonders...
Pierre Oliver
Well I thought I was buying a car that just needed trucks and with

some weathering would be a good backgroung model (close enough for

me) for my narrow gauge/standard gauge transfer yard. This car seemed

to have appropriate lettering for 1929. Now I know that I should have

let it pass. I should just build a few more of the accurate kits and

stop trying to save myself time with RTR stuff. There are only a

handful of RTR 1920s era cars available for the period I model that

have 1920s lettering and K brakes. Most everying that I see

advertised as in use from the 1920s has 40s era lettering. Thanks

to all for the suggestions. -Jim