Central Valley trucks (was Re: 5' wheelbase trucks for new Westerfield ore car)


Gene Green <bierglaeser@...>
 

How would one replace the wheels in old CV trucks?
Would it involve drilling out the rivet?
What would replace the rivet?
Are the "journals" on CV trucks cone shaped so that today's axles will
fit and work?
Is the axle length of most of today's wheel sets close enough to CV's
to fit and operate well?
Could someone who has actually replaced wheel sets in CV trucks respond?

I am not interested in speculation by those who have no experience in
this matter. (VBG) I have quite a few CV trucks and a chance to buy
several more pairs at a very good price. I passed them up because of
the CV wheel contour. The current crop of semi-scale (.88) wheel sets
would be a great improvement in my opinion.

On the other hand, there are a lot of very good, free-rolling,
accurately detailed trucks - both freight and passenger - available
today that require, at most, paint and weathering. Why bother with CV
trucks?

Gene Green

--- In STMFC@..., Howard R Garner <cascaderail@...> wrote:

Would not the Central Valley archbars be a better choice.
They are still available on ebay and other sources and the wheel sets
can be swapped out.

Howard Garner


Jack Burgess <jack@...>
 

Gene wrote:

How would one replace the wheels in old CV trucks?
Would it involve drilling out the rivet?
What would replace the rivet?
Are the "journals" on CV trucks cone shaped so that today's axles will
fit and work?
Is the axle length of most of today's wheel sets close enough to CV's
to fit and operate well?
Could someone who has actually replaced wheel sets in CV trucks respond?
The CV trucks I have use individual springs (like Kadees) and it is easy to
twist the sideframes and pop up the wheelsets. (I just did it.)

[snip]

On the other hand, there are a lot of very good, free-rolling,
accurately detailed trucks - both freight and passenger - available
today that require, at most, paint and weathering. Why bother with CV
trucks?
The problem is finding 5' wheelbase arch bar trucks. Most of the ones (other
than the CV trucks and those mastered by Al) that I am familiar with are
from patterns made 50-60 years ago (just a guess).

BTW, I bought a large number of CV trucks probably 30 years ago since 5'
arch bars trucks were used on nearly all of the YV box cars, flat cars, M of
W equipment, etc. Twenty years later, I discovered that the castings on
probably half of them had disintegrated.

Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


Jon Miller <atsf@...>
 

Would it involve drilling out the rivet? What would replace the rivet?<
I've done this with passenger truck and I replaced the rivet with a screw. Requires tapping one of the parts, forgot which.

a lot of very good, free-rolling,
accurately detailed trucks ------Why bother with CV
trucks?<
Exactly! I think TMW will eventually make everything we ever need <G>!

Jon Miller
AT&SF
For me time has stopped in 1941
Digitrax, Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI user
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Spen Kellogg <spenkellogg@...>
 

Gene Green wrote:

How would one replace the wheels in old CV trucks?
Would it involve drilling out the rivet?
What would replace the rivet?
Are the "journals" on CV trucks cone shaped so that today's axles will
fit and work?
Is the axle length of most of today's wheel sets close enough to CV's
to fit and operate well?
Could someone who has actually replaced wheel sets in CV trucks respond?

Gene,
I have done it. For the CV arch bar trucks I tested them on a Reboxx roll tester. Some of the CV arch bars had very good rolling characteristics. They went into my "tuned" pile. On the others I was able to twist the frames so that the wheel sets popped out. I then reamed out each journal box with THE TOOL. Reboxx wheel sets replaced the CV axles that didn't roll well. I've only done five sets so far, but they roll fine. For the Fox and passenger trucks (4 and 6 wheel), I drilled out rivets on one side. I then tapped the hole/s for 2-56 screws and reassembled the truck with short brass round head 2-56 screws. I was unable to get good rolling characteristics out of any standard needle axle (couldn't effectively ream out the journal boxes) and so used Intermountain ball bearing wheel sets. For the Fox trucks this gave acceptable, but not great, rolling characteristics. The 36" ball bearing wheel sets rolled better, and the characteristics are up to my standards (18-20 half cycles on the roll tester). I just tested a few before answering your query, and could not find any 6 wheel trucks that I had done (a few passed muster with CV wheel sets), although I think I have done a few. However, except for the arch bar trucks, I had to rely on the Intermountain ball bearing wheel sets which have the .110" treads. For what it's worth, I have had similar problems using Reboxx wheel sets on Bethlehem Car Works trucks. The screw assembly system tends to result in less than square trucks and so the needle bearings are not riding on a true and even surface. I plan to buy some samples from Bitter Creek to see how they work. By far the best rolling comes from plastic and styrene trucks with the Reboxx wheel sets. My particular favorites are the Tahoe arch bar (5' 6" wheel base) with the semi scale Intermountain wheel sets (basically a Reboxx 1.010" axle) and Trout Creek's Theilsen trucks (purchased w/o wheel sets) to which I added Reboxx wheel sets. I also have some B.T.S. 4' 6" brass arch bar trucks, but have not assembled these yet, so cannot comment on how they roll.

Spen Kellogg


Gene Green <bierglaeser@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Jack Burgess" <jack@...> wrote:
Twenty years later, I discovered that the castings on
probably half of them had disintegrated.
Ouch! That is bad news, indeed!

Gene Green