Topics

ARCHER rivets on Factory Painted Boxcars


Andy Carlson
 

With the availability of ACR rivets from Archer, we can more easily model ACR boxcars. My question: has anyone applied the Archer rivets directly to a Painted and lettered model (such as a FP Branchline UP 40' boxcar)? What was their experience, and is this a viable way to achieve an ACR FP boxcar? I imagine that the rivets would require some paint touch-up.
Thanks dear folks,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA




________________________________
Bruce Smith posted:




Folks,

I just got the following from Archer! Adding these to the inventory
is fantastic - thanks Tony!!

NEW SURFACE DETAILS FOR MODEL RAILROADERS

Alternative Center Rivets (N-SCALE)
Alternate center rivets for freight cars with thinner sheet sides.
See the February, 2009 Railroad Model Craftsman magazine for more
details.
Researched by Tony Thompson
AR16017 - $14.95 each

Offset Rivets (N-SCALE)
For use on tank cars with double row rivets.
Researched by Tony Thompson
AR16017 - $14.95 each

Alternative Center Rivets (HO-SCALE)
Alternate center rivets for freight cars with thinner sheet sides.
See the February, 2009 Railroad Model Craftsman magazine for more
details.
Researched by Tony Thompson
AR16017 - $14.95 each

Offset Rivets (HO-SCALE)
For use on tank cars with double row rivets.
Researched by Tony Thompson
AR16017 - $14.95 each

-


Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Andy Carlson wrote:
With the availability of ACR rivets from Archer, we can more easily model ACR boxcars. My question: has anyone applied the Archer rivets directly to a Painted and lettered model (such as a FP Branchline UP 40' boxcar)? What was their experience, and is this a viable way to achieve an ACR FP boxcar? I imagine that the rivets would require some paint touch-up.
The rivets are black, so only on something like a black SP Overnight box car could you do this application without paint touchup. (But of course that's a car which DOES need these rivets.) One could of course touch each rivet with a dot of BCR paint on a BCR box car--
delicate work--but it would avoid getting out the spray gun.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


proto48er
 

Andy -

That is a really interesting question! Why couldn't you paint the decal sheet BEFORE you cut out and apply the rivets. I have done this with clearcoat when old decals were too fragile to apply. The paint film would be no different than a clearcoat.

In fact Mr. Francis of Thinfilm Decals fame first started with a special paper that had two glues already applied to it (German made, as I recall). To make his decal film, he first sprayed a thin (!) coating of clear lacquer on the surface of the paper, waited until it was dry, then applied the lettering/artwork with screen printing.

Seems to me that you could paint the rivets BEFORE they were applied - no difference. Anyone want to try it??

A.T. Kott

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:

With the availability of ACR rivets from Archer, we can more easily model ACR boxcars. My question: has anyone applied the Archer rivets directly to a Painted and lettered model (such as a FP Branchline UP 40' boxcar)? What was their experience, and is this a viable way to achieve an ACR FP boxcar? I imagine that the rivets would require some paint touch-up.
Thanks dear folks,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Tim O'Connor
 

It's probably easier to paint-match the rivets than to match
the background, but that's not a bad idea for some projects.

Tony, where did you measure the A.C.R. rivet spacing? (What
prototype.) Is it correct as-is for the SP B-50-24? (Overnight
box car)

Tim O'Connor

At 7/15/2009 04:29 PM Wednesday, you wrote:
Andy -

That is a really interesting question! Why couldn't you paint the decal sheet BEFORE you cut out and apply the rivets. I have done this with clearcoat when old decals were too fragile to apply. The paint film would be no different than a clearcoat.

In fact Mr. Francis of Thinfilm Decals fame first started with a special paper that had two glues already applied to it (German made, as I recall). To make his decal film, he first sprayed a thin (!) coating of clear lacquer on the surface of the paper, waited until it was dry, then applied the lettering/artwork with screen printing.

Seems to me that you could paint the rivets BEFORE they were applied - no difference. Anyone want to try it??

A.T. Kott


Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Tim O'Connor wrote:
Tony, where did you measure the A.C.R. rivet spacing? (What prototype.) Is it correct as-is for the SP B-50-24? (Overnight box car)
Both the UP and SP cars with ACR sides had rivets in the panel center were exactly twice the spacing of the seam rivets. That's what the Archer sheet has. A quick look at some Cyc photos suggests that other ACR cars were at least close to that proportion. If anyone has different info, speak up and maybe Archer will do another set.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


proto48er
 

Tim -

I was thinking in "O" scale terms! I have had to add a couple of rivets here and there, not whole strips of them. They are (currently) not properly spaced on the sheet for our size stuff.

In other words, I have cut some Archer rivets out individually and applied them in the appropriate place one at a time, not in strips. It seems this could be done easier on an already painted model by painting the decal sheet first, then cutting out the individual rivets... So far, I have only done this on a pair of unpainted cars (brass B&O USRA steel low-side gons where rivets were left off.)

A.T. Kott

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


It's probably easier to paint-match the rivets than to match
the background, but that's not a bad idea for some projects.
.....
Tim O'Connor


At 7/15/2009 04:29 PM Wednesday, you wrote:
Andy -

That is a really interesting question! Why couldn't you paint the decal sheet BEFORE you cut out and apply the rivets. I have done this with clearcoat when old decals were too fragile to apply. The paint film would be no different than a clearcoat.

In fact Mr. Francis of Thinfilm Decals fame first started with a special paper that had two glues already applied to it (German made, as I recall). To make his decal film, he first sprayed a thin (!) coating of clear lacquer on the surface of the paper, waited until it was dry, then applied the lettering/artwork with screen printing.

Seems to me that you could paint the rivets BEFORE they were applied - no difference. Anyone want to try it??

A.T. Kott


dh30973
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote:
Tony

Thanks, that is great. What I noticed from their announcement was they don't tell you what the spacing is. You indicated it is double, but double of what. I would assume that if you wanted to build a complete car side you need another sheet of rivets for the seam. Thus my question, what sheet does it pair with?

Dave Hussey


Tim O'Connor wrote:
Tony, where did you measure the A.C.R. rivet spacing? (What
prototype.) Is it correct as-is for the SP B-50-24? (Overnight box
car)
Both the UP and SP cars with ACR sides had rivets in the
panel center were exactly twice the spacing of the seam rivets. That's
what the Archer sheet has. A quick look at some Cyc photos suggests
that other ACR cars were at least close to that proportion. If anyone
has different info, speak up and maybe Archer will do another set.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Dave Hussey wrote:
Thanks, that is great. What I noticed from their announcement was they don't tell you what the spacing is. You indicated it is double, but double of what. I would assume that if you wanted to build a complete car side you need another sheet of rivets for the seam. Thus my question, what sheet does it pair with?
To tell the truth, I didn't think of it from that perspective, but from the idea of adding the ACR rivets to an existing car body--of which we have a bunch in HO which are suitable--to make the conversion. Here's a procedure: put down one strip of ACR, and when dry, add a second strip spaced halfway between <g>.
The car drawings show seam rivets at a 2.5-inch spacing, ACR at 5 inches.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


James Eckman
 

If you have to manually paint them, I'd be tempted to make a template and paint them with a slightly thick paint. I have painted on details with acrylics, painful!

Jim