Date
1 - 12 of 12
Molded-on Grab Irons (was: Heap Shields)
al_brown03
This may get me raided by the Prototype Police, but I don't mind clipping molded grab irons off an open-top car and replacing them with wire, providing the car body is dimensionally OK. I don't mind doing that on a house car, either: it's a good trade-off for price. However, I find it easier to remove molded grab irons and install a ladder, than to remove a molded ladder and install ladder *grabs*. That one's hard to do without scarring the car side. One weathers heavily and hopes purists don't notice.
Ducking for cover as sirens wail,
Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.
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Ducking for cover as sirens wail,
Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.
--- In STMFC@..., Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:
Dennis is correct. Heap shields for the cars we are talking about,
BTW well illustrated in several volumes of RP CYC, were a single
piece of steel. Regarding the MDC/Roundhouse part to create a heap
end, it is meant to go with a 3-bay ribbed side hopper in that line.
I have some of these to do a Southern version.
I have a some Athearn undec with heap shields so I can "sort of" get
to the L&N cars I want. I have plenty to keep me busy so I will give
Athearn some time to see if they redo their offset twin with separate
grabs.
I will grab some of Dennis' new car and I have 3 Atlas cars w/radial
ends and sets of Martin's "Alternate Sides" to do 3 Clinchfield cars.
I just would rather not spend time carving and drilling. Oh well!
Bill Welch
tmolsen@...
Al,
Micro-Mark makes a tool that you can use to remove cast-on ladders, grabs and other offending items without damaging the car bodies. I have the standard sized model and really does work!
It is a stainless steel chisel, 6-1/2" long and 4mm wide. The catalog description and part number is: #80893 Plastic Modeler's Chisel @ $18.95.
It also comes in a smaller version. The catalog description and part number is: #82709 Special Narrow Version with 2mm wide cutting edge @ $18.95.
You can order on-line at: http://www.micromark.com/
The tool is listed in the Holiday Catalog on page 33.
Best regards,
Tom Olsen
Thomas M. Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@...
Micro-Mark makes a tool that you can use to remove cast-on ladders, grabs and other offending items without damaging the car bodies. I have the standard sized model and really does work!
It is a stainless steel chisel, 6-1/2" long and 4mm wide. The catalog description and part number is: #80893 Plastic Modeler's Chisel @ $18.95.
It also comes in a smaller version. The catalog description and part number is: #82709 Special Narrow Version with 2mm wide cutting edge @ $18.95.
You can order on-line at: http://www.micromark.com/
The tool is listed in the Holiday Catalog on page 33.
Best regards,
Tom Olsen
Thomas M. Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@...
I tried a new method this week that works very well -- I used
my 'fine' sprue nippers to remove ladder rungs from a box car
ladder, including the bolt detail. Then I glued them in place
as replacements on a broken ladder on a car. As long as the
grabs are not "drop" style, this will work on any car. It was
a lot faster and easier than drilling holes etc for wire rungs.
Tim O'Connor
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my 'fine' sprue nippers to remove ladder rungs from a box car
ladder, including the bolt detail. Then I glued them in place
as replacements on a broken ladder on a car. As long as the
grabs are not "drop" style, this will work on any car. It was
a lot faster and easier than drilling holes etc for wire rungs.
Tim O'Connor
This may get me raided by the Prototype Police, but I don't mind clipping molded grab irons off an open-top car and replacing them with wire, providing the car body is dimensionally OK. I don't mind doing that on a house car, either: it's a good trade-off for price. However, I find it easier to remove molded grab irons and install a ladder, than to remove a molded ladder and install ladder *grabs*. That one's hard to do without scarring the car side. One weathers heavily and hopes purists don't notice.
Ducking for cover as sirens wail,
Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.
--- In STMFC@..., Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:
Dennis is correct. Heap shields for the cars we are talking about,
BTW well illustrated in several volumes of RP CYC, were a single
piece of steel. Regarding the MDC/Roundhouse part to create a heap
end, it is meant to go with a 3-bay ribbed side hopper in that line.
I have some of these to do a Southern version.
I have a some Athearn undec with heap shields so I can "sort of" get
to the L&N cars I want. I have plenty to keep me busy so I will give
Athearn some time to see if they redo their offset twin with separate
grabs.
I will grab some of Dennis' new car and I have 3 Atlas cars w/radial
ends and sets of Martin's "Alternate Sides" to do 3 Clinchfield cars.
I just would rather not spend time carving and drilling. Oh well!
Bill Welch
That's a good one... for about the same price I've picked up a
dozen stainless steel dental instruments with various shapes and
sizes of cutting heads. They don't flex like the X-Acto blade
does when trying to remove stuff. (I grind X-Acto blades to
desired shapes and round off the edges too.)
Tim O'Connor
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dozen stainless steel dental instruments with various shapes and
sizes of cutting heads. They don't flex like the X-Acto blade
does when trying to remove stuff. (I grind X-Acto blades to
desired shapes and round off the edges too.)
Tim O'Connor
At 11/20/2009 02:35 AM Friday, you wrote:
Al,
Micro-Mark makes a tool that you can use to remove cast-on ladders, grabs and other offending items without damaging the car bodies. I have the standard sized model and really does work!
It is a stainless steel chisel, 6-1/2" long and 4mm wide. The catalog description and part number is: #80893 Plastic Modeler's Chisel @ $18.95.
It also comes in a smaller version. The catalog description and part number is: #82709 Special Narrow Version with 2mm wide cutting edge @ $18.95.
You can order on-line at: http://www.micromark.com/
The tool is listed in the Holiday Catalog on page 33.
Best regards,
Tom Olsen
Thomas M. Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@...
StephenK
Actually there used to be a tool that is ideal for removing molded-on grabs. I was lucky enough to get one about 30 years ago from Klein Tools. (I worked for an electrical distributor that carried Klein and I ordered a set of mini pliers and this came with it.) The tool is a end cutter that is only about 1/8" wide at the end. It will clip off molded-on details with ease--just a little scraping to clean things up.
Unfortunately, Klein doesn't make them any more. I spoke to the Klein rep at a trade show a few years ago and he said they haven't had it for years. Too bad--it's a great tool!
Steve Kay
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Unfortunately, Klein doesn't make them any more. I spoke to the Klein rep at a trade show a few years ago and he said they haven't had it for years. Too bad--it's a great tool!
Steve Kay
--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
That's a good one... for about the same price I've picked up a
dozen stainless steel dental instruments with various shapes and
sizes of cutting heads. They don't flex like the X-Acto blade
does when trying to remove stuff. (I grind X-Acto blades to
desired shapes and round off the edges too.)
Tim O'Connor
At 11/20/2009 02:35 AM Friday, you wrote:Al,
Micro-Mark makes a tool that you can use to remove cast-on ladders, grabs and other offending items without damaging the car bodies. I have the standard sized model and really does work!
It is a stainless steel chisel, 6-1/2" long and 4mm wide. The catalog description and part number is: #80893 Plastic Modeler's Chisel @ $18.95.
It also comes in a smaller version. The catalog description and part number is: #82709 Special Narrow Version with 2mm wide cutting edge @ $18.95.
You can order on-line at: http://www.micromark.com/
The tool is listed in the Holiday Catalog on page 33.
Best regards,
Tom Olsen
Thomas M. Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@...
Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
Tim & Al,
One of the best ways to eliminate the scarring on plastic surfaces is to use 0000 fine steel wool. It polishes the surface while removing trace scratches. I've used this material for 30 years and have been satisfied with the results. Once finished, rinse the item to remove any fines that remain, and clean with a soft cloth. This now leaves a smooth surface to paint and apply decals.
This will work on resin kits as well >>> just don't scrub too hard! Hope this helps with your projects.
Fred Freitas
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Show quoted text
One of the best ways to eliminate the scarring on plastic surfaces is to use 0000 fine steel wool. It polishes the surface while removing trace scratches. I've used this material for 30 years and have been satisfied with the results. Once finished, rinse the item to remove any fines that remain, and clean with a soft cloth. This now leaves a smooth surface to paint and apply decals.
This will work on resin kits as well >>> just don't scrub too hard! Hope this helps with your projects.
Fred Freitas
--- On Fri, 11/20/09, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Molded-on Grab Irons (was: Heap Shields)
To: STMFC@...
Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 4:02 AM
I tried a new method this week that works very well -- I used
my 'fine' sprue nippers to remove ladder rungs from a box car
ladder, including the bolt detail. Then I glued them in place
as replacements on a broken ladder on a car. As long as the
grabs are not "drop" style, this will work on any car. It was
a lot faster and easier than drilling holes etc for wire rungs.
Tim O'Connor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Molded-on Grab Irons (was: Heap Shields)
To: STMFC@...
Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 4:02 AM
I tried a new method this week that works very well -- I used
my 'fine' sprue nippers to remove ladder rungs from a box car
ladder, including the bolt detail. Then I glued them in place
as replacements on a broken ladder on a car. As long as the
grabs are not "drop" style, this will work on any car. It was
a lot faster and easier than drilling holes etc for wire rungs.
Tim O'Connor
This may get me raided by the Prototype Police, but I don't mind clipping molded grab irons off an open-top car and replacing them with wire, providing the car body is dimensionally OK. I don't mind doing that on a house car, either: it's a good trade-off for price. However, I find it easier to remove molded grab irons and install a ladder, than to remove a molded ladder and install ladder *grabs*. That one's hard to do without scarring the car side. One weathers heavily and hopes purists don't notice.
Ducking for cover as sirens wail,
Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, Bill Welch <fgexbill@.. .> wrote:
Dennis is correct. Heap shields for the cars we are talking about,
BTW well illustrated in several volumes of RP CYC, were a single
piece of steel. Regarding the MDC/Roundhouse part to create a heap
end, it is meant to go with a 3-bay ribbed side hopper in that line.
I have some of these to do a Southern version.
I have a some Athearn undec with heap shields so I can "sort of" get
to the L&N cars I want. I have plenty to keep me busy so I will give
Athearn some time to see if they redo their offset twin with separate
grabs.
I will grab some of Dennis' new car and I have 3 Atlas cars w/radial
ends and sets of Martin's "Alternate Sides" to do 3 Clinchfield cars.
I just would rather not spend time carving and drilling. Oh well!
Bill Welch
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
soolinehistory <destorzek@...>
--- In STMFC@..., "StephenK" <thekays100@...> wrote:
http://www.ppe.com/10cat/0152.pdf
I THINK PPE will take credit cards, but they may have a minimum order. If so, check their web site for other shaped nippers (gate cutters) all of which are flush cutting, and also check out their selection of needle files and rifflers.
Dennis
Were they like the "Premium End Nippers" at the bottom of this page?
Actually there used to be a tool that is ideal for removing molded-on grabs...
Unfortunately, Klein doesn't make them any more...
http://www.ppe.com/10cat/0152.pdf
I THINK PPE will take credit cards, but they may have a minimum order. If so, check their web site for other shaped nippers (gate cutters) all of which are flush cutting, and also check out their selection of needle files and rifflers.
Dennis
Misc Clark
A modified (width of the blade narrowed) chisel blade for your Exacto handle
works well, also... just be careful which direction you are applying the
pressure (away from your body parts)...
Clark Cone
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works well, also... just be careful which direction you are applying the
pressure (away from your body parts)...
Clark Cone
On Fri, Nov 20, 2009 at 2:35 AM, <tmolsen@...> wrote:
Al,
Micro-Mark makes a tool that you can use to remove cast-on ladders, grabs
and other offending items without damaging the car bodies. I have the
standard sized model and really does work!
It is a stainless steel chisel, 6-1/2" long and 4mm wide. The catalog
description and part number is: #80893 Plastic Modeler's Chisel @ $18.95.
It also comes in a smaller version. The catalog description and part number
is: #82709 Special Narrow Version with 2mm wide cutting edge @ $18.95.
You can order on-line at: http://www.micromark.com/
The tool is listed in the Holiday Catalog on page 33.
Best regards,
Tom Olsen
Thomas M. Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@... <tmolsen%40udel.edu>
I agree with Tom. It's a great tool. None of the collateral damamge that comes with Xacto chisel blades.
You will need to keep your whetstone handy for continued good performance. It does need periodic sharpening.
Bill McCoy
Jax. FL
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You will need to keep your whetstone handy for continued good performance. It does need periodic sharpening.
Bill McCoy
Jax. FL
--- In STMFC@..., <tmolsen@...> wrote:
Al,
Micro-Mark makes a tool that you can use to remove cast-on ladders, grabs and other offending items without damaging the car bodies. I have the standard sized model and really does work!
It is a stainless steel chisel, 6-1/2" long and 4mm wide. The catalog description and part number is: #80893 Plastic Modeler's Chisel @ $18.95.
It also comes in a smaller version. The catalog description and part number is: #82709 Special Narrow Version with 2mm wide cutting edge @ $18.95.
You can order on-line at: http://www.micromark.com/
The tool is listed in the Holiday Catalog on page 33.
Best regards,
Tom Olsen
Thomas M. Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@...
Schuyler Larrabee
Thanks, Bill, for the product numbers. They seem pretty thick, and one advantage of the Xacto
blades (if you knock off the corners) is that they are thin. Do you not find these tools sort of
bottom out on adjacent, um, "stuff?"
SGL
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blades (if you knock off the corners) is that they are thin. Do you not find these tools sort of
bottom out on adjacent, um, "stuff?"
SGL
I agree with Tom. It's a great tool. None of the collateral damamge that comes with Xacto chiselblades.
sharpening.
You will need to keep your whetstone handy for continued good performance. It does need periodic
items without
Bill McCoy
Jax. FL
--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , <tmolsen@...> wrote:
Al,
Micro-Mark makes a tool that you can use to remove cast-on ladders, grabs and other offending
damaging the car bodies. I have the standard sized model and really does work!number is: #80893 Plastic
It is a stainless steel chisel, 6-1/2" long and 4mm wide. The catalog description and part
Modeler's Chisel @ $18.95.Narrow Version with
It also comes in a smaller version. The catalog description and part number is: #82709 Special
2mm wide cutting edge @ $18.95.
You can order on-line at: http://www.micromark.com/ <http://www.micromark.com/>
The tool is listed in the Holiday Catalog on page 33.
Best regards,
Tom Olsen
Thomas M. Olsen
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.508)
Database version: 6.13750
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
The flush end-nippers that Klein once made, and that PPE still supplies are the handiest off all tools for removing the bulk of cast- on molded detailing. By removing most of the "overburden" with these flush-cutters, this then allows the use of a sharp chisel blade to finish the work with minimal chance of collateral damage. My " sharp chisel blade" is one of several X-acto blades that have been ground to shape, i.e. to a narrower profile, and have the corners rounded off.
IMHO, the most important issue with the good use of these blades is to keep them SHARP! My small Arkansas whet stone is out on the bench along with a piece of scrap leather as a strop, and I will commonly whet and strop the blade several times during a sitting or session. I do the same with razor blades, and in this regard, both X-acto and good razor blades will last an entire season; and they are sharper and smoother in doing so than when they were first removed from their packaging. When the blades become nicked or the profiles are no longer level -and will no longer hold an edge-, only then do they get the heave-ho.
I have the Micro Mark chisel, and although I do like it, its use has not yet persuaded me to give up my handy-dandy razor and X-acto blades.
Denny
Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento
IMHO, the most important issue with the good use of these blades is to keep them SHARP! My small Arkansas whet stone is out on the bench along with a piece of scrap leather as a strop, and I will commonly whet and strop the blade several times during a sitting or session. I do the same with razor blades, and in this regard, both X-acto and good razor blades will last an entire season; and they are sharper and smoother in doing so than when they were first removed from their packaging. When the blades become nicked or the profiles are no longer level -and will no longer hold an edge-, only then do they get the heave-ho.
I have the Micro Mark chisel, and although I do like it, its use has not yet persuaded me to give up my handy-dandy razor and X-acto blades.
Denny
Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento
StephenK
Assuming the ends of the cutters are flat, this is the item...
SKay
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SKay
--- In STMFC@..., "soolinehistory" <destorzek@...> wrote:
--- In STMFC@..., "StephenK" <thekays100@> wrote:Were they like the "Premium End Nippers" at the bottom of this page?
Actually there used to be a tool that is ideal for removing molded-on grabs...
Unfortunately, Klein doesn't make them any more...
http://www.ppe.com/10cat/0152.pdf
I THINK PPE will take credit cards, but they may have a minimum order. If so, check their web site for other shaped nippers (gate cutters) all of which are flush cutting, and also check out their selection of needle files and rifflers.
Dennis