Caboose Trucks


Jim Betz
 

Hi,

I'm well started along a project of adding marker lights to
a large number of cabeese. For the brass ones it is pretty
simple to "isolate the trucks electrically from the frame/body
and pick up one side with each caboose". A non-conductive
washer and a nylon/fibre truck screw makes this a fairly easy
job.
The preliminary research I've done for the plastic ones tells
me that I have a 'larger' job for those. I looks like I'm going
to be doing enough work to them that replacing the trucks is
probable.
This project is large - I'm going to end up doing 50, a 100,
or even more ... before I'm done.

So what I'd like to do is to work from photos and use trucks
that are as proto-typical as possible.
My dilemma is that there doesn't seem to be any one producing
caboose trucks that are easily adapted to using them for power
pickup. And - for that matter - there seems to be a lack of
supply of any kind of "variety" of the various types of caboose
trucks. Most of the brass cabeese are equipped with the
proper trucks (at least for that class of caboose for that RR) -
but most of them have not increased the run of the trucks and
sell them as after market items.

Your experience and guidance is requested ... thanks
- Jim


Bruce Smith
 

Jim,

Appropriate trucks ARE available in both brass and plastic for most PRR cabin cars in a number of scales, so if any of the "cabooses" you are working on are Pennsy, that should be pretty easy to deal with. Yes, plastic trucks are not usually designed for power pickup, but replacing the wheelsets on plastic trucks with metal wheels and using wipers connected to the truck screw is a relatively simple way of taking power from the track, just like most plastic tender trucks.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ \
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0

On Mar 10, 2010, at 11:19 AM, Jim Betz wrote:

Hi,

I'm well started along a project of adding marker lights to
a large number of cabeese. For the brass ones it is pretty
simple to "isolate the trucks electrically from the frame/body
and pick up one side with each caboose". A non-conductive
washer and a nylon/fibre truck screw makes this a fairly easy
job.
The preliminary research I've done for the plastic ones tells
me that I have a 'larger' job for those. I looks like I'm going
to be doing enough work to them that replacing the trucks is
probable.
This project is large - I'm going to end up doing 50, a 100,
or even more ... before I'm done.

So what I'd like to do is to work from photos and use trucks
that are as proto-typical as possible.
My dilemma is that there doesn't seem to be any one producing
caboose trucks that are easily adapted to using them for power
pickup. And - for that matter - there seems to be a lack of
supply of any kind of "variety" of the various types of caboose
trucks. Most of the brass cabeese are equipped with the
proper trucks (at least for that class of caboose for that RR) -
but most of them have not increased the run of the trucks and
sell them as after market items.

Your experience and guidance is requested ... thanks
- Jim


Steve SANDIFER
 

I prefer to use plastic trucks with stainless steel wipers purchased from Richmond Controls. They roll better and are easier to electrically isolate. I currently have them on Walthers and Intermountain caboose trucks.
See:
http://ssandifer.com/Lay/Howard/Const/LEDMarker/Index.htm

And thanks to Jim's circuit I have flicker free markers lamps.

----------------------------------------------------------------
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Dr., Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417
Personal: http://www.geocities.com/stevesandifer2000/index
Church: http://www.swcentral.org

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Betz
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 11:19 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Caboose Trucks



Hi,

I'm well started along a project of adding marker lights to
a large number of cabeese. For the brass ones it is pretty
simple to "isolate the trucks electrically from the frame/body
and pick up one side with each caboose". A non-conductive
washer and a nylon/fibre truck screw makes this a fairly easy
job.
The preliminary research I've done for the plastic ones tells
me that I have a 'larger' job for those. I looks like I'm going
to be doing enough work to them that replacing the trucks is
probable.
This project is large - I'm going to end up doing 50, a 100,
or even more ... before I'm done.

So what I'd like to do is to work from photos and use trucks
that are as proto-typical as possible.
My dilemma is that there doesn't seem to be any one producing
caboose trucks that are easily adapted to using them for power
pickup. And - for that matter - there seems to be a lack of
supply of any kind of "variety" of the various types of caboose
trucks. Most of the brass cabeese are equipped with the
proper trucks (at least for that class of caboose for that RR) -
but most of them have not increased the run of the trucks and
sell them as after market items.

Your experience and guidance is requested ... thanks
- Jim


Richard Hendrickson
 

On Mar 10, 2010, at 9:42 AM, Steve Sandifer wrote:

I prefer to use plastic trucks with stainless steel wipers
purchased from Richmond Controls. They roll better and are easier
to electrically isolate. I currently have them on Walthers and
Intermountain caboose trucks.
The same approach would work equally well, of course, on Tahoe Model
Works caboose trucks, both the early Bettendorf swing motion and
later Barber-Bettendorf styles, which are IMHO the best HO scale
caboose trucks on the market. Keep these and other TMW trucks in
mind, as they have redefined the state of the art in HO scale trucks
and, though they're not as widely distributed through hobby shops as
they should be, the better retailers (e.g., Des Plaines) stock them
and they are readily available from list member Andy Carlson.

Richard Hendrickson


Tim O'Connor
 

Steve

Does this circuit work with either/both DC or DCC?
How difficult to add a magnetic switch to turn the markers
on/off?

Tim O'Connor

I prefer to use plastic trucks with stainless steel wipers purchased from Richmond Controls. They roll better and are easier to electrically isolate. I currently have them on Walthers and Intermountain caboose trucks.

See:

http://ssandifer.com/Lay/Howard/Const/LEDMarker/Index.htm

And thanks to Jim's circuit I have flicker free markers lamps.

----------------------------------------------------------------
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Betz
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 11:19 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Caboose Trucks



Hi,

I'm well started along a project of adding marker lights to
a large number of cabeese. For the brass ones it is pretty
simple to "isolate the trucks electrically from the frame/body
and pick up one side with each caboose". A non-conductive
washer and a nylon/fibre truck screw makes this a fairly easy
job.
The preliminary research I've done for the plastic ones tells
me that I have a 'larger' job for those. I looks like I'm going
to be doing enough work to them that replacing the trucks is
probable.
This project is large - I'm going to end up doing 50, a 100,
or even more ... before I'm done.

So what I'd like to do is to work from photos and use trucks
that are as proto-typical as possible.
My dilemma is that there doesn't seem to be any one producing
caboose trucks that are easily adapted to using them for power
pickup. And - for that matter - there seems to be a lack of
supply of any kind of "variety" of the various types of caboose
trucks. Most of the brass cabeese are equipped with the
proper trucks (at least for that class of caboose for that RR) -
but most of them have not increased the run of the trucks and
sell them as after market items.

Your experience and guidance is requested ... thanks
- Jim


Steve SANDIFER
 

Works equally well AC or DC. No flicker as the capacitor stores enough power to keep the markers lit for several minutes, even if off the track. Therefore dirty track, dead frogs, or less that perfect truck wipers are not a problem.

I've not tried to put a switch on mine. The resistor in line with the LED can be adjusted to get the brightness you desire based on your ambient light.

----------------------------------------------------------------
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Dr., Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417
Personal: http://www.geocities.com/stevesandifer2000/index
Church: http://www.swcentral.org

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim O'Connor
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 1:12 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Caboose Trucks



Steve

Does this circuit work with either/both DC or DCC?
How difficult to add a magnetic switch to turn the markers
on/off?

Tim O'Connor

>I prefer to use plastic trucks with stainless steel wipers purchased from Richmond Controls. They roll better and are easier to electrically isolate. I currently have them on Walthers and Intermountain caboose trucks.
>
>See:
>
>http://ssandifer.com/Lay/Howard/Const/LEDMarker/Index.htm
>
>And thanks to Jim's circuit I have flicker free markers lamps.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------
>J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Betz
> To: STMFC@...
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 11:19 AM
> Subject: [STMFC] Caboose Trucks
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm well started along a project of adding marker lights to
> a large number of cabeese. For the brass ones it is pretty
> simple to "isolate the trucks electrically from the frame/body
> and pick up one side with each caboose". A non-conductive
> washer and a nylon/fibre truck screw makes this a fairly easy
> job.
> The preliminary research I've done for the plastic ones tells
> me that I have a 'larger' job for those. I looks like I'm going
> to be doing enough work to them that replacing the trucks is
> probable.
> This project is large - I'm going to end up doing 50, a 100,
> or even more ... before I'm done.
>
> So what I'd like to do is to work from photos and use trucks
> that are as proto-typical as possible.
> My dilemma is that there doesn't seem to be any one producing
> caboose trucks that are easily adapted to using them for power
> pickup. And - for that matter - there seems to be a lack of
> supply of any kind of "variety" of the various types of caboose
> trucks. Most of the brass cabeese are equipped with the
> proper trucks (at least for that class of caboose for that RR) -
> but most of them have not increased the run of the trucks and
> sell them as after market items.
>
> Your experience and guidance is requested ... thanks
> - Jim


Jack Burgess <jack@...>
 

....and with the Flicker-Free circuit works with DCC (which might be what
Steve meant). I'm using a couple of them too and plan to add them to the
rest of my caboose fleet. Rather than adding a switch, one could put a kill
switch on the caboose storage track so that the markers didn't stay on while
in storage...


Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


Jim Betz
 

Hi,

The Flicker Free circuit works equally well in either DC or
DCC. It is designed for LEDs but can probably be adapted for
bulbs. You are on your own for that ... I don't use bulbs
any more. Yes, you could add a magnetic reed switch if you
wanted to - if you are interested contact me directly and I
can provide more details. Please include the words "Flicker
Free" in the subject of the email to get prompter answers.

*****

Thanks for the pointers to sources for trucks. And thanks
also for the solutions that do not involve metal trucks. I
may re-visit that line of thinking after I have an example
of the Richmond Controls wipers to look at and evaluate.
- Jim


michaelashelley <mashelley@...>
 

That is very similar to a circuit I've used to run an Atlas turntable motor using DCC track power. I was later told that the full wave bridge rectifier is not really needed - although I think it's necessary if you ever ran the caboose on regular DC track.

Somone else might want to test the circuit without the rectifier, since it's been a long time since I took Electrical Circuits 2.

Michael A. Shelley

--- In STMFC@..., "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@...> wrote:

I prefer to use plastic trucks with stainless steel wipers purchased from Richmond Controls. They roll better and are easier to electrically isolate. I currently have them on Walthers and Intermountain caboose trucks.
See:
http://ssandifer.com/Lay/Howard/Const/LEDMarker/Index.htm

And thanks to Jim's circuit I have flicker free markers lamps.

----------------------------------------------------------------
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
<snip>


Jim Betz
 

Hi,

So I went searching for pics of the actual cabeese in service.
Many of the trucks appear to be some kind of "adaptation" of a
standard Bettendorf (or Barber) truck. Think "a standard
Bettendorf/Barber truck ... but with the coil springs replaced
with leaf springs ... and with solid bearings (not roller).
All of the "caboose trucks" in HO scale I've found so far
are variations on the Barber/Bettendorf swing motion truck
that has that very distinctive "rectangular with rounded
corners" insert/piece that surrounds the leaf springs. I.e.
what the Tahoe Model Works version looks like.

Any one know of a source for the style I found in the pics?

Please note - there is a brass caboose truck (PSC?) out
there that has a copper leaf spring that is a representation of
what I'm looking for. I can't/won't use those because they tend
to dis-assemble themselves in just normal handling.
- Jim


Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Jim;

Could I see that pic again? I did some looking at photos, and want to
understand what you are asking for.

Thanks,

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Jim
Betz
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 12:22 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Caboose Trucks



Hi,

So I went searching for pics of the actual cabeese in service.
Many of the trucks appear to be some kind of "adaptation" of a standard
Bettendorf (or Barber) truck. Think "a standard Bettendorf/Barber truck ...
but with the coil springs replaced with leaf springs ... and with solid
bearings (not roller).
All of the "caboose trucks" in HO scale I've found so far are variations on
the Barber/Bettendorf swing motion truck that has that very distinctive
"rectangular with rounded corners" insert/piece that surrounds the leaf
springs. I.e.
what the Tahoe Model Works version looks like.

Any one know of a source for the style I found in the pics?

Please note - there is a brass caboose truck (PSC?) out there that has a
copper leaf spring that is a representation of what I'm looking for. I
can't/won't use those because they tend to dis-assemble themselves in just
normal handling.
- Jim


Jim Betz
 

Elden,

There are several different WM cabeese at the following site. The
particular one that I'm using below has the only close up shot of
just the truck. I can not tell if this is exactly the same as the
others but it is similar to very similar to identical.

http://www.irritatedvowel.com/Railroad/WMRY/Caboose1867/Default.aspx

By the way - I found a Tahoe Model Works truck that is at least a
little bit similar to this. It is TMW number 108.

http://www.steamfreightcars.com/modeling/new%20products/tahoe/TWMFLYER108.pdf

The thing about the 108 is that it has both coil and
leaf/elliptical springs. When I look at the pics of the
WM and B&O cabeese it does not look to me like they had
any coil springs in them at all and that they were
'adaptations' of a truck that was designed for coil
springs but using leaf/elliptical springs instead. When
you look at the pics in the first reference above you will
see why I say this.

And the ones of theirs that are a 'normal' caboose truck is
any of 104, 105, 204, or 205 (which are not the same and have
what I referred to as the "rectangular center piece with rounded
corners").

http://www.steamfreightcars.com/modeling/new%20products/tahoe/TWMCABOOSE105.pdf

- Jim

6.2. Re: Caboose Trucks
Posted by: "Gatwood, Elden J SAD" elden.j.gatwood@... prr8112
Date: Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:25 am ((PST))

Jim;

Could I see that pic again? I did some looking at photos, and want to
understand what you are asking for.

Thanks,

Elden Gatwood


Richard Hendrickson
 

On Mar 13, 2010, at 1:00 AM, Jim Betz wrote:

There are several different WM cabeese at the following site. The
particular one that I'm using below has the only close up shot of
just the truck. I can not tell if this is exactly the same as the
others but it is similar to very similar to identical.

http://www.irritatedvowel.com/Railroad/WMRY/Caboose1867/Default.aspx
[snip]

When I look at the pics of the
WM and B&O cabeese it does not look to me like they had
any coil springs in them at all and that they were
'adaptations' of a truck that was designed for coil
springs but using leaf/elliptical springs instead.
Jim, the trucks on the WM (ex-B&O) caboose are double truss self-
aligning spring-plankless trucks of a design built in the late 1930s/
early 1940s by American Steel Foundries. The "ears" with rivets on
either side of the bolster are replaceable wear pads so that
excessive wear between the bolster and side frames can be corrected.
Other photos I have seen of these trucks show them with conventional
coil spring groups, but in these case, as you infer, the coil springs
have obviously been replaced with elliptical leaf springs to improve
the riding qualities on a relatively light car where there isn't a
significant difference between empty and loaded weight.

Richard Hendrickson


Jim Betz
 

Hi,

Thanks Richard for "the rest of the story".

So the obvious question is ... does any one know of a caboose
truck that is available that represents these 'conversions' as
they were done on the WM/B&O?
The Tahoe Model Works #108 is close - but it still has one
coil spring on either side of the leaf/elliptical spring. If
possible I'd like to find a plastic or brass truck that is
the one that was used on the WM & B&O. The brass trucks that
I have that are a representation of that do not work - as I
have already said - because they tend to dis-assemble in just
normal handling.

So I guess that what I'm looking for is a plastic or brass
truck that is not sprung/equalized ... but that represents
the leaf/elliptical modification to a truck designed for coil.

- Jim


brianleppert@att.net
 

Jim,

Tichy's #3051 Caboose Truck is your best choice for now. It's plastic, with side frames and bolster molded as one piece.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV

--- In STMFC@..., Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:

Hi,

Thanks Richard for "the rest of the story".

So the obvious question is ... does any one know of a caboose
truck that is available that represents these 'conversions' as
they were done on the WM/B&O?
The Tahoe Model Works #108 is close - but it still has one
coil spring on either side of the leaf/elliptical spring. If
possible I'd like to find a plastic or brass truck that is
the one that was used on the WM & B&O. The brass trucks that
I have that are a representation of that do not work - as I
have already said - because they tend to dis-assemble in just
normal handling.

So I guess that what I'm looking for is a plastic or brass
truck that is not sprung/equalized ... but that represents
the leaf/elliptical modification to a truck designed for coil.

- Jim


Jim Hayes
 

This may have already been mentioned but Tichy's caboose truck is "A
BETTENDORF TRUCK WITH TWO LEAF SPRINGS". If not exactly correct, it may do
until the right thing comes along.

Jim Hayes
Portland Oregon
www.sunshinekits.com

On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 2:08 PM, brianleppert@...
<brianleppert@...>wrote:



Jim,

Tichy's #3051 Caboose Truck is your best choice for now. It's plastic, with
side frames and bolster molded as one piece.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV


--- In STMFC@... <STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>, Jim Betz <jimbetz@...>
wrote:

Hi,

Thanks Richard for "the rest of the story".

So the obvious question is ... does any one know of a caboose
truck that is available that represents these 'conversions' as
they were done on the WM/B&O?
The Tahoe Model Works #108 is close - but it still has one
coil spring on either side of the leaf/elliptical spring. If
possible I'd like to find a plastic or brass truck that is
the one that was used on the WM & B&O. The brass trucks that
I have that are a representation of that do not work - as I
have already said - because they tend to dis-assemble in just
normal handling.

So I guess that what I'm looking for is a plastic or brass
truck that is not sprung/equalized ... but that represents
the leaf/elliptical modification to a truck designed for coil.

- Jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Charles Hladik
 

Jim,
Why not try _www.tichytraingroup.com_ (http://www.tichytraingroup.com)
and order direct. They show up on their web site at $2.95 a pair. Free
shipping at $25.00.
Chuck Hladik

In a message dated 3/15/2010 12:30:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jimbetz@... writes:




Hi,
Walthers does not even list the Tichy 3051. I'm guessing that
they are out of production. Any one know a shop that probably
has some?

Brian ... it would seem that there is an "opportunity" for
TMW here. Thanks for the referral.
- Jim
1.2. Re: Caboose Trucks
From: _brianleppert@brianle_ (mailto:brianleppert@...)




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Jim Betz
 

Hi,
Walthers does not even list the Tichy 3051. I'm guessing that
they are out of production. Any one know a shop that probably
has some?

Brian ... it would seem that there is an "opportunity" for
TMW here. Thanks for the referral.
- Jim

1.2. Re: Caboose Trucks
From: brianleppert@...


Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...>
 

Alas, Jim,

You can't assume something is out of production because Walthers doesn't list it. Try looking at www.tichytraingroup.com - you'll find the 3051 trucks there.

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
Executive Editor
Model Railroader magazine
asperandeo@...
262-796-8776, ext. 461
FAX 262-796-1142


Jon Miller <atsf@...>
 

These are listed as available on the Tichy site. $2.98 per pair (3051) or ten pair (3052) for $15.50. It's my experience to buy directly from Tichy. Also if you need, say a 100/200 sprues of anything, he give you a good price.

Jon Miller
AT&SF
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax, Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI user
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS