What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?


dakkinder
 

I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder


Brian Paul Ehni <behni@...>
 

I use a homemade drill. I took a "Holland" motor (such as A-Line still sells
for an outrageous price, as I got mine for $3 apiece years ago), added a
flywheel at one end, and made a brass fitting to attach a Gyro chuck on the
other. I run it at about 5 volts. In and out; done. I usually only break 1
bit per 3 or 4 cars, and usually because I stupidly let it get bound up and
have to gingerly manually spin it backwards.
--
Thanks!

Brian Paul Ehni



From: dakkinder <dakkinder@...>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 03:28:27 -0000
To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?






I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for
grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder


Clark Cooper
 

Doug,

I use the pin vise with the ball handle. It fits nicely in the palm, and allows good control. If the model has pre-cast dimples, and there are lot of them, I'll plug a dremel into a variac for really slow speed (ie. a few hundred RPMs) and have at it. The rest is just being careful to not bend the bit, such as keeping the model still as you go.

-Clark Cooper


al_brown03
 

If the model *doesn't* have cast dimples, I have good luck using a straight pin as a mini center punch.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

--- In STMFC@..., Clark Cooper <csc@...> wrote:

Doug,

I use the pin vise with the ball handle. It fits nicely in the palm,
and allows good control. If the model has pre-cast dimples, and
there are lot of them, I'll plug a dremel into a variac for really
slow speed (ie. a few hundred RPMs) and have at it. The rest is just
being careful to not bend the bit, such as keeping the model still as
you go.

-Clark Cooper


asychis@...
 

I gave up on trying to drill #78 and smaller holes manually a long time
ago. I went through bits way to fast. A good drill press is the best
solution in my opinion (other than some trouble drilling ends on assembled cars I
foolishly built first and then tried to drill out). It is a quick,
accurate and precise way to drill holes in any models (and you will find a lot of
other uses for it).

Jerry Michels


Dennis Williams
 

Doug.
  I am on the higher end. Pricey, that is.  I use a Foredom for all the drilling. Higher the RPM the better. I do 30 cars at a clip and I use about 1 bit each  block of cars. Keep the drill as straight as possible, try not to wiggle the bit.
   Dennis/Owner
www.resinbuilder4u.com

--- On Wed, 9/8/10, dakkinder <dakkinder@...> wrote:


From: dakkinder <dakkinder@...>
Subject: [STMFC] What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?
To: STMFC@...
Date: Wednesday, September 8, 2010, 8:28 PM


 



I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Doug,
I've been using a cordless Dremel tool for years now for drilling holes in resin and plastic.
Basically I stopped breaking bits once I started using the tool. Dremel sells a small 3 jaw chuck that will hold a #80 which you can attach in lieu of a collet.
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com

--- In STMFC@..., "dakkinder" <dakkinder@...> wrote:

I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder


Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...>
 

Hi Doug,

I use two tools, both powered. Most often I use a Dremel Moto tool with a foot-operated speed control, as I explained in "Building resin freight car kits" in the February "Model Railroader." The smallest Dremel chuck will take no. 80 bits (I keep an special one that I don't use it for any larger sizes), and the foot control lets me run it at slow enough speeds not to melt resin or plastic. The motor tool turns the bit much more steadily than I can turn a pin vise by hand, so despite the size and weight of the tool it's much easier on tiny drills. Dremel doesn't make its foot-pedal control any more, but other manufacturers have similar items.

The other tool is a Micro Lux miniature drill press, sold by MicroMark. It has a Jacobs chuck that can hold no. 80 bits, but it's easier to use carbide bits that have a 1/8" shank - it's just less trouble to get these securely centered in the chuck. I buy carbide bits in number drill sizes online from Drill Bit City, drillcity.stores.yahoo.net, and I thank Jack Burgess for tipping me off to them.

You can get a better, higher-precision drill press than the Micro Lux - see cameronmicrodrillpress.com - but for a higher price. We have a Cameron in the MR workshop and it's a great machine, but building resin and plastic freight cars isn't that demanding, and the cheaper tool I have at home is more than adequate. We use a dial-type speed control with MR's Cameron press, and I have one at home too for the Micro Lux.

Not that I don't use pin vises too, but for drilling many holes at the same time I prefer the power tools.

So long,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
Executive Editor
Model Railroader magazine
asperandeo@...
262-796-8776, ext. 461
FAX 262-796-1142


jerryglow2
 

I make sure I "locate" the hole accurately and well with a scriber or sewing needle in a pin vice. Small amounts or stuff that can't be laid flat, I use a pin vice but when possible, I use an Albrecht chuck equipped drill press like I did on the hatches of:
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/modeling/MP_cov_hop.html

Jerry Glow
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals

--- In STMFC@..., "dakkinder" <dakkinder@...> wrote:

I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder


Roger Robar
 

The best way I know of and use to prevent drill breakage is the chuck the
drill bit into the pin vise, Dremel or drill press so only a ¼” or so is
sticking out. If the drill is too long to chuck that far in then cut it off;
use a cut-off wheel with eye protection.

Roger Robar





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Bill Welch
 

I have the same drill that Brian speaks of that I purchased from him at the "Nashville Depot" about 15 years ago. I use a small variable speed power pack to juice it.

One quirk I have experienced is that not all #79 drill bits will fit, so now I usually take the drill with me when I need new drill bits to fit each one to my drill. I have been pretty successful with minimizing breakage.

To maximize my drilling "efficiency" I try to work on two identical or similar cars at a time, i.e. an 8k and a 10k tank car, two offset twin hoppers, two Pratt trussed SS boxcars, etc.

I do have a couple of pin vices and use the little straight pins that come with shirts to create a starter dimple.

Brian, since Naperville is earlier this year and hopefully before hunting season, I hope to see you there this year!

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., "dakkinder" <dakkinder@...> wrote:

I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder


Eric Hansmann
 

Doug,

I use my Dremel that I got back in the late-1970s. It is plugged into a special outlet that is wired to a light dimmer. I use the dimmer to regulate the Dremel speed. This operation has eased multiple drilling of the same holes, especially on the three Tichy USRA SS box cars that are nearly completed. There are 64 grab iron holes to drill on each model. No bits were broken during the assembly of these models.

I understand this type of variable electrical source does not work well with newer Dremel tools.

In many cases a dimple helps before drilling. I use a sewing needle in a spare pin vise. I've used a push pin in the past, but like the finer and longer sewing needle tip.

Eric


Eric Hansmann
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Modeling the Railroads of Newburgh, Ohio, circa 1926:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/

--- In STMFC@..., "dakkinder" <dakkinder@...> wrote:

I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder


Jim King
 

I have a Micro Mark drill press with a chuck that handles down to a #80 bit.
I also use a clip-on "mag lite" sort of gizmo that shines a cone of light in
the area to be drilled. Spindle RPM is about 5000. I break about 1 bit for
every 50-60 drilled holes.



Jim King

Smoky Mountain Model Works, Inc.

Ph. (828) 777-5619

<www.smokymountainmodelworks.com>


lnnrr <lnnrr@...>
 

Andy mentions that Dremel doesn't make the foot control any more.
However, most sewing machine stores have foot controls that will
work on the older Dremels. I don't know about the newer Dremels
with electronic speed controls but my old ones run fine with my
Singer brand controller.
Chuck Peck

--- In STMFC@..., Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...> wrote:

Hi Doug,

I use two tools, both powered. Most often I use a Dremel Moto tool with a foot-operated speed control, as I explained in "Building resin freight car kits" in the February "Model Railroader." The smallest Dremel chuck will take no. 80 bits (I keep an special one that I don't use it for any larger sizes), and the foot control lets me run it at slow enough speeds not to melt resin or plastic. The motor tool turns the bit much more steadily than I can turn a pin vise by hand, so despite the size and weight of the tool it's much easier on tiny drills. Dremel doesn't make its foot-pedal control any more, but other manufacturers have similar items.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

Pierre, another gent on this list, and myself all use the cordless Dremel for drilling these holes in resin. I've found it useful for a variety of tasks.

Besides, it's a little far to the drill press in the shed during a Canadian winter peak model-building season!

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., "Pierre" <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:

Doug,
I've been using a cordless Dremel tool for years now for drilling holes in resin and plastic.
Basically I stopped breaking bits once I started using the tool. Dremel sells a small 3 jaw chuck that will hold a #80 which you can attach in lieu of a collet.
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com

--- In STMFC@..., "dakkinder" <dakkinder@> wrote:

I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder


D. Scott Chatfield
 

Roger Robar wrote:

The best way I know of and use to prevent drill breakage is the chuck the
drill bit into the pin vise, Dremel or drill press so only a ¼" or so is
sticking out. If the drill is too long to chuck that far in then cut it off;
use a cut-off wheel with eye protection.

Actually, in a hand-held drill this is _more_ likely to break the bit off, especially small bits.

Clamp the bit at a point double the length of the flutes. This minimizes flexure at the base of the flutes where the bit is weakest. In other words, if the flutes are 1/2" long, one inch of the bit should be stick out of the chuck.

Scott Chatfield


Clark Propst
 

I've worn out two battery operated drills, basically a flashlight with a chuck instead of a lamp. Used 2 'C' cells I think.
They didn't turn that fast. You held them like a fat pencil. Both worked very well. The first one was black made by X-acto and the other in green and I think marketed by AHM?

Sure wish I had another one. But, can't seem to find them anymore.
Now I use the pin vise with the wooden ball on the end. I break a bit now and then, mostly my fault. Hardly ever broke any with the battery operated drills.

Clark Propst


Brian Ehni <behni@...>
 

Sigh. Have to take a new deer stand to far Northern Minnesota the middle of
October. That and deer season will kill all my available vacation time. Next
year, though...

Thanks!
--

Brian P. Ehni




From: Bill Welch <fgexbill@...>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 14:01:07 -0000
To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and
Resin?






I have the same drill that Brian speaks of that I purchased from him at the
"Nashville Depot" about 15 years ago. I use a small variable speed power
pack to juice it.

One quirk I have experienced is that not all #79 drill bits will fit, so now
I usually take the drill with me when I need new drill bits to fit each one
to my drill. I have been pretty successful with minimizing breakage.

To maximize my drilling "efficiency" I try to work on two identical or
similar cars at a time, i.e. an 8k and a 10k tank car, two offset twin
hoppers, two Pratt trussed SS boxcars, etc.

I do have a couple of pin vices and use the little straight pins that come
with shirts to create a starter dimple.

Brian, since Naperville is earlier this year and hopefully before hunting
season, I hope to see you there this year!

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "dakkinder"
<dakkinder@...> wrote:

I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs
and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model.
Do you have any tips on how to do this?
I'm using a pin vise.

Doug Kinder


Tim O'Connor
 

Eric

That's an interesting idea, sounds better than the foot pedal.
I don't know about electrical stuff, but I think the old dimmers
used a rheostat (variable resistance) but the new dimmers use a
completely different technique -- perhaps that's why they don't
work so well with the Dremel?

Tim O'Connor

-------------------------------------------

I use my Dremel that I got back in the late-1970s. It is plugged into a special outlet that is wired to a light dimmer... I understand this type of variable electrical source does not work well with newer Dremel tools. Eric


Tim O'Connor
 

Scott, in my own experience that's the opposite of what works for me.
I leave as little as possible of the drill sticking out of a pin vise.

But for my drill press, I use your method because it gives me the best
clearance for the chuck.

Tim O'Connor

Clamp the bit at a point double the length of the flutes. This minimizes flexure at the base of the flutes where the bit is weakest. In other words, if the flutes are 1/2" long, one inch of the bit should be stick out of the chuck.
Scott Chatfield