Iwata Airbrushes on Scottymason.com


Scott <smason2@...>
 

Hi folks,

A quick update for ya...

I just finished shooting a new DVD, "Airbrushing Techniques for Model Railroaders", This one-hour DVD will cover all the basic techniques you'll need to gain proficiency with an airbrush. I also show you some neat and quick ways to clean an airbrush. The DVD should be out in mid-November.

Also, I'm putting the finishing touches on my new line of Iwata airbrushes and accessories. If you're not familiar with Iwata, check out the website. These are simply, the finest airbrushes made, and I highly recommend them. All Iwata products on my page are in-stock and ready to ship. If you are looking for an Iwata product that isn't on my site, just e-mail me, and I can get you a price.

Thanks,

Scott
www.scottymason.com


Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

Scott,

I have heard this claim made about every new airbrush that has come out since 1970 but have seen little reason to switch from the tried and true Paasche line that has been around since the period most of us model, steam era, and has worked extremely well not only on freight cars but on all manner of equipment. Can you cite some of the advantages you feel the Iwata line has and a range of prices?

Thank you, Don Valentine

--- In STMFC@..., "Scott" <smason2@...> wrote:

Hi folks,

A quick update for ya...

I just finished shooting a new DVD, "Airbrushing Techniques for Model Railroaders", This one-hour DVD will cover all the basic techniques you'll need to gain proficiency with an airbrush. I also show you some neat and quick ways to clean an airbrush. The DVD should be out in mid-November.

Also, I'm putting the finishing touches on my new line of Iwata airbrushes and accessories. If you're not familiar with Iwata, check out the website. These are simply, the finest airbrushes made, and I highly recommend them. All Iwata products on my page are in-stock and ready to ship. If you are looking for an Iwata product that isn't on my site, just e-mail me, and I can get you a price.

Thanks,

Scott
www.scottymason.com


Larry Kline
 

Don,

I agree and Hobbylinc has the single action Paasche Model H kit for $47.99. I also have a Paasche double action model V but I still prefer my 50 year old Model H.

Larry Kline
Pittsburgh, PA

--- In STMFC@..., "Don" <riverman_vt@...> wrote:

Scott,

I have heard this claim made about every new airbrush that has come out since 1970 but have seen little reason to switch from the tried and true Paasche line that has been around since the period most of us model, steam era, and has worked extremely well not only on freight cars but on all manner of equipment. Can you cite some of the advantages you feel the Iwata line has and a range of prices?

Thank you, Don Valentine

--- In STMFC@..., "Scott" <smason2@> wrote:

Hi folks,

A quick update for ya...

I just finished shooting a new DVD, "Airbrushing Techniques for Model Railroaders", This one-hour DVD will cover all the basic techniques you'll need to gain proficiency with an airbrush. I also show you some neat and quick ways to clean an airbrush. The DVD should be out in mid-November.

Also, I'm putting the finishing touches on my new line of Iwata airbrushes and accessories. If you're not familiar with Iwata, check out the website. These are simply, the finest airbrushes made, and I highly recommend them. All Iwata products on my page are in-stock and ready to ship. If you are looking for an Iwata product that isn't on my site, just e-mail me, and I can get you a price.

Thanks,

Scott
www.scottymason.com


jerryglow2
 

For durability and better availibility of service parts, I stick with my Pasche VL but break out the Iwata when I want to do weathering. I once weathered an N-scale locomotive so subtily, the customer did not realize it was weathered but looked better than the excact same model not weathered. Needless to say, he was hooked of light weathering after that as it brought out a lot of the details.

Jerry Glow
former custom painter

--- In STMFC@..., "Don" <riverman_vt@...> wrote:

Scott,

I have heard this claim made about every new airbrush that has come out since 1970 but have seen little reason to switch from the tried and true Paasche line that has been around since the period most of us model, steam era, and has worked extremely well not only on freight cars but on all manner of equipment. Can you cite some of the advantages you feel the Iwata line has and a range of prices?

Thank you, Don Valentine

--- In STMFC@..., "Scott" <smason2@> wrote:

Hi folks,

A quick update for ya...

I just finished shooting a new DVD, "Airbrushing Techniques for Model Railroaders", This one-hour DVD will cover all the basic techniques you'll need to gain proficiency with an airbrush. I also show you some neat and quick ways to clean an airbrush. The DVD should be out in mid-November.

Also, I'm putting the finishing touches on my new line of Iwata airbrushes and accessories. If you're not familiar with Iwata, check out the website. These are simply, the finest airbrushes made, and I highly recommend them. All Iwata products on my page are in-stock and ready to ship. If you are looking for an Iwata product that isn't on my site, just e-mail me, and I can get you a price.

Thanks,

Scott
www.scottymason.com


Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Listers comment-

....I still prefer my 50 year old Model H [Paasche].
and

I have heard this claim made about every new airbrush that has come
out since 1970 but have seen little reason to switch from the tried
and true Paasche line that has been around since the period most of
us model,...
Yes. I too still rely upon my Model H given to me as a Christmas
present c. 1954. I have yet to be struck by any need, or an "I want",
to change. It is a still-available classic bulletproof airbrush.

In some years past when the Naperville meet was scheduled at the same
time of the large industry hobby show at Rosemont near O'Hare airport,
by serendipity I fell into a long interesting conversation with a very
senior Paasche marketing guy who was visiting their booth (Paasche is
Chicago-based, as I recall). He was quite conversant with airbrushing
in general, and the needs of railroad modelers in particular; and when
I asked his opinion whether or not I should be considering changing to
an "updated" type of air brush, he stated quite emphatically that what
I had ( and still have: the ancient -even then- Model H) could and
would do just about everything that the modeler might need or want,
and in this regard no change was either necessary, or perhaps even
desirable (the last in regards to the consequences of ascending a new
learning curve).

If you are able to make your air brush work for you, change is not
necessary. If your brush does not work for you, be introspective
before springing the money to purchase yet another one.

Now that I think about this conversation with the Paasche man, I
recall another denizen of this good list, SGL, was with me at the
time. If he denies it ever happened, he obviously was not paying
attention.

Denny


Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento


Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

So can we conclude that the Iwata "buzz" is merely about another sound and satisfactory addition to our arsenal of airbrushes, rather than anything of a revolutionary nature?

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Clark Propst
 

I've used Iwata demonstrators at Trainfest and the NTS. The double action is quite a machine.

I still use my 'H'. I had a friend who could paint multi-color paint schemes with acrylics using his H. He would never tell me how he did it!

Anybody have consistent luck running Polly Scale or Badger thought their H for painting freight cars?

If so, what's the secret?

Clark Propst


Bill Welch
 

Clark, the issue is that these water based paints need a larger orifice than solvent based paints. My first airbrush was a Binks-Wren that I bought as a teenager to paint 1/72nd & 1/48th scale aircraft. When I re-entered modeling as an adult I initially used this with the then new Accuflex paint. I had a hard time spraying until Badger came out with their airbrush especially designed to spray these newer type paints. Their "155" I think, it is a double action AB. It seems like I noticed at some point that Pasche has an equivalent.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., cepropst@... wrote:



I've used Iwata demonstrators at Trainfest and the NTS. The double action is quite a machine.

I still use my 'H'. I had a friend who could paint multi-color paint schemes with acrylics using his H. He would never tell me how he did it!

Anybody have consistent luck running Polly Scale or Badger thought their H for painting freight cars?

If so, what's the secret?

Clark Propst


Larry Kline
 

I have been using Polly Scale in my H for a few years. I use distilled water from the drugstore as my thinner. I thin by eye. I spray at 25 to 30 psi and use a water trap. I take the airbrush apart after a painting session and clean the airbrush parts with lacquer thinner.

Larry Kline
Pittsburgh, PA

Clark Propst wrote:
Anybody have consistent luck running Polly Scale or Badger thought their H for
painting freight cars?

If so, what's the secret?


Clark Cooper
 

I have no problems spraying Polly Scale with my 'H' brush. It's easier with a larger tip. The 'H' brush has three available tip sizes (H-1, H-3, and H-5), but is typically sold with the smallest (H-1). The complete tip assemblies only cost $10.95 retail from Paasche:

http://www.paascheairbrush.com/store/search.html

I thin about 25% with distilled water, pressure at around 25 pounds; clean the brush with cheap ammonia glass cleaner, occasionally disassemble and scrub out with micro-brushes.

-Clark Cooper

On Oct 13, 2010, at 2:23 PM, cepropst@q.com wrote:



I've used Iwata demonstrators at Trainfest and the NTS. The double action is quite a machine.

I still use my 'H'. I had a friend who could paint multi-color paint schemes with acrylics using his H. He would never tell me how he did it!

Anybody have consistent luck running Polly Scale or Badger thought their H for painting freight cars?

If so, what's the secret?

Clark Propst


Douglas Harding
 

I have a Paasche H-1 single action, a Badger Anthem 155 and an Iwata Revolution, both double action. I don't use the Paasche
anymore. I find the Iwata to be very nicely balanced and easy to use. The Badger is lighter, also works very nice and has a very
easy to remove needle for cleaning.

To paint acrylics (water based paints) requires the large tip and corresponding needle on the Paasche H-1. Both my Anthem 155 and
Revolution have tips/needles designed for the heavier acrylic paints, permitting me to spray direct from the bottle with no
thinning when using Badger's Model Flex.

Scott Mason was demo-ing a new attachment for the Iwata's at the national Narrow Gauge Convention in St Louis, which allows for
quicker removal of the needle for cleaning. I was not aware he was an Iwata dealer until that show. I did not seeing anything that
was revolutionary as far as improvements on painting models.

Info on Iwata can be found at http://www.iwata-medea.com/

Doug Harding
www.iowacentralrr.org


Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., Clark Cooper <csc@...> wrote:

I have no problems spraying Polly Scale with my 'H' brush. It's
easier with a larger tip. The 'H' brush has three available tip sizes
(H-1, H-3, and H-5), but is typically sold with the smallest (H-1).
The complete tip assemblies only cost $10.95 retail from Paasche:

http://www.paascheairbrush.com/store/search.html

I thin about 25% with distilled water, pressure at around 25 pounds;
clean the brush with cheap ammonia glass cleaner, occasionally
disassemble and scrub out with micro-brushes.

-Clark Cooper

While I have purposely avoided the waterbase paints after trying them some years ago it would seem one would want a #5 tip on a Paasche to use them. You mention the #1 tip as being sold on most of them, Clark. That strikes me as a bit fine for most good model paints, Accupaint, Scalecoat, etc. I have sold a number of the Paashe's over
the last forty years, long before Walthers began carrying them, and found the #3 tip worked best for most customers. But the #1 or #5 tip was a good alternate to have to meet the needs of others. I have never used anything but the #1 and #3 myself but, as indicated, I don't care for the water based paints. With the #3 tip most issues can be cured
by adjusting the pressure and/or the dilution ratio. I have found that many people try to paint with too little pressure. With Accupaint in particular one needs 25-30 pounds. Gordon Cannon had the same experience with Accupaint and would use little else.

Cordially, Don Valentine


soolinehistory <destorzek@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Douglas Harding" <doug.harding@...> wrote:

To paint acrylics (water based paints) requires the large tip and corresponding needle on the Paasche H-1.
I agree, the secret to painting today's water borne acrylics is a big tip. These paints are actually acrylic emulsions, with tiny globuals of solvent based paint floating around in soapy water. No matter how much water you add to thin the paint, the globuals remain the same size.

Dennis


Bruce Smith
 

On Oct 14, 2010, at 11:02 AM, Don wrote:
While I have purposely avoided the waterbase paints....
Arrrrrgh!

<on my semantic soapbox>
The paints named in this thread, Polyscale, Scalecoat II, etc, are NOT "water based". These paints are all or almost all based on an alcohol solvent. Because alcohol is water soluble, these paints are water SOLUBLE, but they are most definitely not "water based"!
<off my semantic soapbox>

Sorry Don, your comment finally put me over the edge with this thread, but this should be no means indicate that I am picking on you exclusively! <VBG>

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
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Bill Welch
 

Hench the Badger 155 Anthem.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., "soolinehistory" <destorzek@...> wrote:



--- In STMFC@..., "Douglas Harding" <doug.harding@> wrote:

To paint acrylics (water based paints) requires the large tip and corresponding needle on the Paasche H-1.
I agree, the secret to painting today's water borne acrylics is a big tip. These paints are actually acrylic emulsions, with tiny globuals of solvent based paint floating around in soapy water. No matter how much water you add to thin the paint, the globuals remain the same size.

Dennis


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Denny, of course I remember that conversation. Mostly I remember thinking
that I'd done all my modeling with a Binks Wren, and still do. Never saw a
need for a double action brush, but then that may be my failing, not seeking
one out to try.

I do have a double action brush, a Badger "Crescendo" model No. 175-7, which
I bought at a yard sale in original packing for, IIRC, $15.00. I've never
opened it. Anybody have any comments on using this brush?

SGL


Now that I think about this conversation with the Paasche man, I
recall another denizen of this good list, SGL, was with me at the
time. If he denies it ever happened, he obviously was not paying
attention.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento










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Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Schuyler Larrabee wrote:
. . . I'd done all my modeling with a Binks Wren, and still do. Never saw a need for a double action brush, but then that may be my failing, not seeking one out to try.
I do have a double action brush, a Badger "Crescendo" model No. 175-7, which I bought at a yard sale in original packing for, IIRC, $15.00. I've never opened it.
I'll confess, now that Schuyler's broken the ice, that I do the vast majority of my airbrushing with an old Badger single action brush, which works fine for almost everything. I do have a fine Thayer & Chandler double-action brush, but don't often fire it up, partly because I'm not so confident with it, partly because it's more trouble to clean, and partly because I don't often need all that control.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

I agree with most of what I hear, and also still use my old Pasche for
applying Floquil and other solvent-based paints, but do like my
double-actions for control. My Iwata double-action is great for applying
Modelflex, which the Pasche will not do well. I also loved my double-action
Badger 150's for applying delicate weathering, but they both wore out, and I
have not replaced them, since I am now doing much of my weathering using
washes, dry-brushing, and sanding or rubbing techniques, which to me now look
more like the real thing. Oversprays can be applied to blend using either of
the above. Unless you are doing lots of advanced weathering applications,
the simple single-action brushes do the job very well.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Anthony Thompson
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 1:23 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Iwata Airbrushes on Scottymason.com



Schuyler Larrabee wrote:
. . . I'd done all my modeling with a Binks Wren, and still do.
Never saw a need for a double action brush, but then that may be my
failing, not seeking one out to try.
I do have a double action brush, a Badger "Crescendo" model No.
175-7, which I bought at a yard sale in original packing for, IIRC,
$15.00. I've never opened it.
I'll confess, now that Schuyler's broken the ice, that I do the vast majority
of my airbrushing with an old Badger single action brush, which works fine
for almost everything. I do have a fine Thayer & Chandler double-action
brush, but don't often fire it up, partly because I'm not so confident with
it, partly because it's more trouble to clean, and partly because I don't
often need all that control.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
<mailto:thompson%40signaturepress.com>
Publishers of books on railroad history


Jack Burgess <jack@...>
 

Schuyler admitted:

< Never saw a need for a double action brush, but then that may be my
failing, not
<seeking one out to try.

The concept of a double action air brush can seem intimidating and, unless
you see the advantages of it, it is easy to put off ever trying one. It can
seem as difficult as patting your head and rubbing your stomach at the same
time.

The frustration that I had with single action brushes is that you'd
carefully set the control for the width of the spray and just after you
started spraying, the tip would clog ever so slightly, reducing the
"pattern" to nothing. I found myself continually stopping and adjusting the
width of the spray.

A good double action brush will let you put down a line 1/16" wide which is
great for weathering, especially along dirt catchers such as bracing on
single-sheathed box cars. If you are afraid that you'll accidentally pull
the trigger back too far and spray an extra-wide line, you can screw down
the trigger to limit its travel.


Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


Tim O'Connor
 

Badger also sells an equivalent single action to the 155, the 150.
I have one of those, with a "crown" style tip which supposedly was
designed specifically for the water soluble paints. You can see the
tip in this photo http://www.badgerairbrush.com/library/150.jpg

But mostly I still use my Paasche H and VL :-)

Tim O'Connor

Hench the Badger 155 Anthem.

Bill Welch

I agree, the secret to painting today's water borne acrylics is a big tip. These paints are actually acrylic emulsions, with tiny globuals of solvent based paint floating around in soapy water. No matter how much water you add to thin the paint, the globuals remain the same size.

Dennis