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Warning Labels
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golden1014
I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model with
water-based paint, that she should take the biggest, heaviest iron skillet we have and SMASH ME over the head with it first. It would be a much more efficient means of causing pain and complete frustration. Today, in just 45 minutes, I managed to ruin the roofs and ends of three FGE cars and a GN DS box car with splotches, blobs, paint oceans, and other problems from using water-based paint. I should've known better. And this was after spending mucho Johnny-bucks on paint and thinners, cleaning the airbrush for 45 minutes, cleaning numerous clogs and malfunctions, and most importantly wasting an hour away from the wife and kids. My reward for all this effort? Another four hours of work. Next the models will get sandblasted (again), then dried, then painted with good, old fashioned, sticky-but-perfect Scalecoat. No kidding; that stuff should have a Warning Label on it that reads something like this: Warning: This stuff approved for bush-painting only. DO NOT not attempt to airbrush. Using this paint with an airbrush will cause irritation, anxiety, frustration, anger, and homicidal behavior. Excessive smashing of nearby items may result. Rant complete. John Golden Bloomington, IN
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Stuart A. Forsyth <trainmail@...>
What brand paint were you using?
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Stuart A. Forsyth forsyth@...
On Oct 23, 2010, at 5:44 PM, John Golden <golden1014@...> wrote:
I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model with
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seaboard_1966
John remember this. Water based paints are for kids to use for finger painting! Denis Blake
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Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: John Golden <golden1014@...> Sender: STMFC@... Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 17:44:12 To: <stmfc@...> Reply-To: STMFC@... Subject: [STMFC] Warning Labels I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model with water-based paint, that she should take the biggest, heaviest iron skillet we have and SMASH ME over the head with it first. It would be a much more efficient means of causing pain and complete frustration. Today, in just 45 minutes, I managed to ruin the roofs and ends of three FGE cars and a GN DS box car with splotches, blobs, paint oceans, and other problems from using water-based paint. I should've known better. And this was after spending mucho Johnny-bucks on paint and thinners, cleaning the airbrush for 45 minutes, cleaning numerous clogs and malfunctions, and most importantly wasting an hour away from the wife and kids. My reward for all this effort? Another four hours of work. Next the models will get sandblasted (again), then dried, then painted with good, old fashioned, sticky-but-perfect Scalecoat. No kidding; that stuff should have a Warning Label on it that reads something like this: Warning: This stuff approved for bush-painting only. DO NOT not attempt to airbrush. Using this paint with an airbrush will cause irritation, anxiety, frustration, anger, and homicidal behavior. Excessive smashing of nearby items may result. Rant complete. John Golden Bloomington, IN [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
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Mark
Years ago a riv bigboy was redone and received detailing. Tamiya paint (as recall) was used. Never saw the finished product but Ray said it came out nice!
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My old favorite is floquil through badgers cheapest airbrush. Still have some for my B&O diesels. Mark Morgan PS at work Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®
-----Original Message-----
From: dblake7@... Sender: STMFC@... Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 01:24:54 To: Stmfc<STMFC@...> Reply-To: STMFC@... Subject: Re: [STMFC] Warning Labels John remember this. Water based paints are for kids to use for finger painting! Denis Blake Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: John Golden <golden1014@...> Sender: STMFC@... Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 17:44:12 To: <stmfc@...> Reply-To: STMFC@... Subject: [STMFC] Warning Labels I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model with water-based paint, that she should take the biggest, heaviest iron skillet we have and SMASH ME over the head with it first. It would be a much more efficient means of causing pain and complete frustration. Today, in just 45 minutes, I managed to ruin the roofs and ends of three FGE cars and a GN DS box car with splotches, blobs, paint oceans, and other problems from using water-based paint. I should've known better. And this was after spending mucho Johnny-bucks on paint and thinners, cleaning the airbrush for 45 minutes, cleaning numerous clogs and malfunctions, and most importantly wasting an hour away from the wife and kids. My reward for all this effort? Another four hours of work. Next the models will get sandblasted (again), then dried, then painted with good, old fashioned, sticky-but-perfect Scalecoat. No kidding; that stuff should have a Warning Label on it that reads something like this: Warning: This stuff approved for bush-painting only. DO NOT not attempt to airbrush. Using this paint with an airbrush will cause irritation, anxiety, frustration, anger, and homicidal behavior. Excessive smashing of nearby items may result. Rant complete. John Golden Bloomington, IN [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
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John
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What brand did you shoot? I've had some of the best experiences ever with acrylic paints, and some of the worst -- even from the same brand. One thing I have learned to do -- always pour out what you think you'll need from the jar, and re-close the jar tightly. When you are done, if there is some left over, THROW IT OUT!! Never, ever, ever, ever put it back into the original jar unless you want to throw out the rest of what is in the jar. You'll get blobs and bits and dried chunks as your reward if you try to mix the old and new, and ALSO if you have the original bottle open for more than a couple of minutes. Totally fresh paint is usually (but not always) trouble free -- that's why the demos at train shows make it look so easy! :-) Tim O'Connor
I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model with
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James F. Brewer <jfbrewer@...>
John,
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I primarily use Polly Scale and thin it about 10-15% with Isopropol Alcohol; no problems. I bought one of those paint stirrers from Micro Mark and use it; I never shake the bottle, wipe the mouth of the jar, etc. I use an eyedropper to measure the paint; the dropper I use holds about 40 drops of paint; I use another dropper to add the alcohol. Like Tim said, if you have any left over, THROW IT AWAY! With white, yellow and silver, I tend to use less thinner because those paints already seem thin to me. FWIW YMMV. Jim Brewer Glenwood MD
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From: "Tim O'Connor" <timboconnor@...> To: STMFC@... Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 9:58:33 PM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Warning Labels John What brand did you shoot? I've had some of the best experiences ever with acrylic paints, and some of the worst -- even from the same brand. One thing I have learned to do -- always pour out what you think you'll need from the jar, and re-close the jar tightly. When you are done, if there is some left over, THROW IT OUT!! Never, ever, ever, ever put it back into the original jar unless you want to throw out the rest of what is in the jar. You'll get blobs and bits and dried chunks as your reward if you try to mix the old and new, and ALSO if you have the original bottle open for more than a couple of minutes. Totally fresh paint is usually (but not always) trouble free -- that's why the demos at train shows make it look so easy! :-) Tim O'Connor I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model with [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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John,
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I use Polyscale for both brush painting and airbrushing. for the brush painting I use high quality artist brushes from Langneckl, Windsor Newton, Grumbacher and others found at real art stores. Never the cheap brushes from the LHS. They are watercolor sable or soft natural hair, some times for a stiffer bristle I will use the synthetics made for acrylics. I use the same bottle for airbrushing. I clean the top rim of the bottle and shake or stir the paint. Stirring when the muck is thick at the bottom and I can see other colors down there like blue to be mixed into the grey. I use a single action Paasche H with a number 3 tip. If I suspect an older bottle I will strain the paint into my feed cup. I use a clean Micro Sol bottle that I cut the bottom out of and drop a faucet screen into the funnel end. (inverted top of the bottle). I spray at 35 PSI with regulated/ filtered air into a holding tank. I thin with generic tasteless bottle water like Ice Mountain. Distilled water works too. Between color changes I dump the remaining paint into the trash can, flush with water and clean with a feed cup of Windex with amonia. If I use a stubborn color I'll run some Laquer Thinner through the brush. If I cant get a decent pattern out of the brush I''ll dissassemble it and swab out the brush, nozzle and cup with pipe cleaners and a Q-Tip. If I rush and mess up, I go to the sink, douse the model with Windex and scrub with luke warm water and an artist Oil natural bristle brush. I gloss coat with Future and give it a day before I decal. I use Polyscale flat finish thinnedto about 30 - 40% depending on how it looks in the bottle. Some batches can have more viscosity than others. I stopped using Isopropyl alcohol when I bought a bottle of 91% and turned my paint into a sludge. The non tap water works fine. I admit it does have a steep learning curve but the health benefits far out weigh it for me and my wife. Sincerely, Rob Manley
----- Original Message -----
From: <dblake7@...> To: "Stmfc" <STMFC@...> Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 8:24 PM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Warning Labels John remember this. Water based paints are for kids to use for finger painting! Denis Blake
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mcindoefalls
I feel your pain, John, but I also infer that this was a new medium for you? An hour spent experimenting with the stuff on scrap styrene and a few junk car or locomotive shells would have been a wise investment. I hope you can recover and save the cars that turned out so poorly.
Walt Lankenau
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Gatwood, Elden J SAD
John;
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I had the exact same experience when I was first starting to use Modelflex, and before I bought my Iwata Eclipse. Rather than tell you what to do on the paint, I just want to caution you on one thing. I ruined a Westerfield gon trying to blast dried acrylic paint off of it, since the paint was tougher than the resin. Be VERY careful, and watch closely to avoid pitting the surface next to the paint globs! Elden Gatwood
-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of John Golden Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 8:44 PM To: stmfc@... Subject: [STMFC] Warning Labels I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model with water-based paint, that she should take the biggest, heaviest iron skillet we have and SMASH ME over the head with it first. It would be a much more efficient means of causing pain and complete frustration. Today, in just 45 minutes, I managed to ruin the roofs and ends of three FGE cars and a GN DS box car with splotches, blobs, paint oceans, and other problems from using water-based paint. I should've known better. And this was after spending mucho Johnny-bucks on paint and thinners, cleaning the airbrush for 45 minutes, cleaning numerous clogs and malfunctions, and most importantly wasting an hour away from the wife and kids. My reward for all this effort? Another four hours of work. Next the models will get sandblasted (again), then dried, then painted with good, old fashioned, sticky-but-perfect Scalecoat. No kidding; that stuff should have a Warning Label on it that reads something like this: Warning: This stuff approved for bush-painting only. DO NOT not attempt to airbrush. Using this paint with an airbrush will cause irritation, anxiety, frustration, anger, and homicidal behavior. Excessive smashing of nearby items may result. Rant complete. John Golden Bloomington, IN [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Bill Welch
Try using Baking Soda as the blast media
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Bill Welch
--- In STMFC@..., "Gatwood, Elden J SAD " <elden.j.gatwood@...> wrote:
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gettheredesigns <rick@...>
Thank you Rob, great post. I've had a good experience with Polly Scale as well, using many of the precautions you described so thoroughly. When I first open a jar, I throw a half-dozen BBs in and shake the dickens out of it.
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Peace, Rick Aylsworth
--- In STMFC@..., "Rob & Bev Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote:
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Rick,
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Your welcome. Did your BBs ever grow a wierd milky fungus around themselves in older bottles? I used the copper plated kind. Slainte' Rob Manley
----- Original Message -----
From: gettheredesigns To: STMFC@... Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2010 9:52 PM Subject: [STMFC] Re: Warning Labels Thank you Rob, great post. I've had a good experience with Polly Scale as well, using many of the precautions you described so thoroughly. When I first open a jar, I throw a half-dozen BBs in and shake the dickens out of it. Peace, Rick Aylsworth --- In STMFC@..., "Rob & Bev Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote: > > John, > I use Polyscale for both brush painting and airbrushing. for the brush > painting I use high quality artist brushes from Langneckl, Windsor Newton, > Grumbacher and others found at real art stores. Never the cheap brushes from > the LHS. They are watercolor sable or soft natural hair, some times for a > stiffer bristle I will use the synthetics made for acrylics. I use the same > bottle for airbrushing. I clean the top rim of the bottle and shake or stir > the paint. Stirring when the muck is thick at the bottom and I can see other > colors down there like blue to be mixed into the grey. > I use a single action Paasche H with a number 3 tip. If I suspect an older > bottle I will strain the paint into my feed cup. I use a clean Micro Sol > bottle that I cut the bottom out of and drop a faucet screen into the funnel > end. (inverted top of the bottle). > I spray at 35 PSI with regulated/ filtered air into a holding tank. I thin > with generic tasteless bottle water like Ice Mountain. Distilled water works > too. Between color changes I dump the remaining paint into the trash can, > flush with water and clean with a feed cup of Windex with amonia. If I use a > stubborn color I'll run some Laquer Thinner through the brush. If I cant get > a decent pattern out of the brush I''ll dissassemble it and swab out the > brush, nozzle and cup with pipe cleaners and a Q-Tip. > If I rush and mess up, I go to the sink, douse the model with Windex and > scrub with luke warm water and an artist Oil natural bristle brush. > I gloss coat with Future and give it a day before I decal. I use Polyscale > flat finish thinnedto about 30 - 40% depending on how it looks in the > bottle. Some batches can have more viscosity than others. I stopped using > Isopropyl alcohol when I bought a bottle of 91% and turned my paint into a > sludge. The non tap water works fine. > I admit it does have a steep learning curve but the health benefits far out > weigh it for me and my wife. > Sincerely, > Rob Manley > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <dblake7@...> > To: "Stmfc" <STMFC@...> > Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 8:24 PM > Subject: Re: [STMFC] Warning Labels > > > > John remember this. Water based paints are for kids to use for finger > > painting! Denis Blake > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: John Golden <golden1014@...> > > Sender: STMFC@... > > Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 17:44:12 > > To: <stmfc@...> > > Reply-To: STMFC@... > > Subject: [STMFC] Warning Labels > > > > I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model > > with > > water-based paint, that she should take the biggest, heaviest iron skillet > > we > > have and SMASH ME over the head with it first. It would be a much more > > efficient means of causing pain and complete frustration. > > > > Today, in just 45 minutes, I managed to ruin the roofs and ends of three > > FGE > > cars and a GN DS box car with splotches, blobs, paint oceans, and other > > problems > > from using water-based paint. I should've known better. And this was after > > spending mucho Johnny-bucks on paint and thinners, cleaning the airbrush > > for 45 > > minutes, cleaning numerous clogs and malfunctions, and most importantly > > wasting > > an hour away from the wife and kids. My reward for all this effort? > > Another > > four hours of work. Next the models will get sandblasted (again), then > > dried, > > then painted with good, old fashioned, sticky-but-perfect Scalecoat. > > > > No kidding; that stuff should have a Warning Label on it that reads > > something > > like this: > > > > Warning: This stuff approved for bush-painting only. DO NOT not attempt > > to airbrush. Using this paint with an airbrush will cause irritation, > > anxiety, > > frustration, anger, and homicidal behavior. Excessive smashing of nearby > > items > > may result. > > > > Rant complete. > > > > John Golden > > Bloomington, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > >
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Rob I had some BB's rust in ModelFlex paint. They must have been a cooper coated steel. I was very surprised, ruined a few bottles
of paint. I can only speculate that somehow the ammonia in ModelFlex ate through the copper, but not being a chemist, I really have no idea what happened. Needless to say I stopped using BBs. Doug Harding www.iowacentralrr.org
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