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Window Glazing
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Charles Hladik
Paul,
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My experiences have been that it looks like "old" glass in structures ( I like that), it sorta sags. As to strength, I can't answer. Chuck Hladik In a message dated 1/10/2011 9:44:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
chris_hillman@... writes: How good is the liquid window-glazing that you put in with a "tooth-pick" (more or less) for like, caboose windows? Does it dry thick enough to be strong against breaking and is it pretty smooth, consistent in transparency? Thanks, Paul Hillman Chuck Hladik Rutland Railroad Virginia Division Chuck Hladik Rutland Railroad Virginia Division [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Paul Hillman
How good is the liquid window-glazing that you put in with a "tooth-pick" (more or less) for like, caboose windows?
Does it dry thick enough to be strong against breaking and is it pretty smooth, consistent in transparency? Thanks, Paul Hillman |
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james murrie
One person's opinion; strong yes, consistent transpaency, no. The larger the window, the more it was noticable. But, as I said, that's just my experience so it might include large amounts of "operator error".
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Jim Murrie --- In STMFC@..., "behillman" <chris_hillman@...> wrote:
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jerryglow2
In my experience, if you put it on thick, it's like the bottom of a coke bottle and looks horible. In fact, it looks pretty bad in almost any HO application except maybe the foreward facing windows in a steam loco cab. Makes a good adhesive to mount clear acetate or microscope slide glass though. However YMMV
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Jerry Glow --- In STMFC@..., "behillman" <chris_hillman@...> wrote:
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WILLIAM PARDIE
My problem in in longevity. I have used this in cab wind deflectors
on steam locomotives and after 10 years a hole appears in the center. Bill Pardie On Jan 10, 2011, at 5:59 AM, jerryglow@... wrote: In my experience, if you put it on thick, it's like the bottom of a [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Paul,
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I liked to use it on the windows for my Alloy Forms model cars. You could put a contolled ammount in the front and rear window of a car, invert the body and let it dry to a proper curved windshield. To add to it's protection I coated them with Future Flor polish. Some of my cars are over 20 years old. Rob Manley Midwest Mod-U-Trak "Better modeling through personal embarassment" ----- Original Message -----
From: behillman To: STMFC@... Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 8:44 AM Subject: [STMFC] Window Glazing How good is the liquid window-glazing that you put in with a "tooth-pick" (more or less) for like, caboose windows? Does it dry thick enough to be strong against breaking and is it pretty smooth, consistent in transparency? Thanks, Paul Hillman |
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cj riley <cjriley42@...>
<How good is the liquid window-glazing that you put in with a "tooth-pick" (more <or less) for like, caboose windows?
<Does it dry thick enough to be strong against breaking and is it pretty smooth, I have used such products extensively, particularly on brass caboose cupolas that are inaccessible from the inside. It works, but visually it is less perfect than clear styrene (about as much difference as clear styrene is from slide glass. I find it to be acceptable and have some that approach 30 years old. It is best if you use it on all windows in a given model, so there is no contrast with sheet material. Less material is better and it is possible to remove excess by poking through with a tooth pick, removing a small amount. a shiny finish should be added after curing. CJ Riley [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
I like your tagline, Rob! Could be mine, too...
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Steve Lucas. --- In STMFC@..., "Rob & Bev Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote:
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