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weathering with artist oil paint
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Randy Arnold <arnoldrandy5115@...>
I have been weathering with acrylic washes but do not like the effects of the surface tension in the water based media. I have started to try and use artist oil paints from a tube. My question is what is the drying time for this method. How many days should one let the model sit before handling it or adding more effects?
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Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
In my experience with oils;
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the model can be handled carefully once the oil has evaporated. You can tell by the lack of a sheen on the model. Depending on how much paint you laid on 3-4 days drying time should be planned for. Some really neat effects can be had with oils. have fun. Pierre Oliver --- In STMFC@..., "Randy Arnold" <arnoldrandy5115@...> wrote:
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Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
This should not take too long (24 hours?) as you will be making more of a
tinted thinner rather than thin paint. You should also add some Winsor & Newton Liquin to as a flow aid. Don't forget to clear coat the model first as this will also help flow. (I'm not sure about the drying time because working the next day has never been a problem for me.) KL From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Randy Arnold I have been weathering with acrylic washes but do not like the effects of the surface tension in the water based media. I have started to try and use artist oil paints from a tube. My question is what is the drying time for this method. How many days should one let the model sit before handling it or adding more effects? |
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Schuyler Larrabee
Randy,
The problem of surface tension in using acrylics can be resolved by adding some detergent (a drop or so for a small bowl of water) or a brushful of Kodak Photo-flo (if you can still find it). The water then is very fluid, and I have had little to no trouble with it. SGL From: Randy Arnold I have been weathering with acrylic washes but do not like the effects of the surface tension in the water based media. I have started to try and use artist oil paints from a tube. My question is what is the drying time for this method. How many days should one let the model sit before handling it or adding more effects? Thanks ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18020) http://www.pctools.com <http://www.pctools.com/?cclick=EmailFooterClean_51> ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18020) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= |
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Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Schuyler Larrabee wrote:
The problem of surface tension in using acrylics can be resolved by adding some detergent (a drop or so for a small bowl of water) or a brushful of Kodak Photo-flo (if you can still find it). The water then is very fluid, and I have had little to no trouble with it.Just what I was going to say. I really like acrylics and weather almost everything that way, and as Schuyler says, basing it on some "wet water" is essential. One important point (for me, anyway) is that the model MUST be flat-finished, or even "wet water" will bead up on it. The usual "RTR" model is semi-gloss to shiny and REQUIRES a coat of flat. For illustrations of my use of acrylics, and some specifics on flat car decks, see my blog at: http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/05/weathering-flat-car-decks.html Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history |
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Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
One other caveat about oils. No not use mixing white if you're in a hurry. I
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bought a tube of mixing white instead of titanium white because titanium white tends to yellow and mixing white does not. However, when I used a wash of mixing white for phosphate streaks on a hopper car, it took weeks to dry completely. Nelson -----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Kurt Laughlin Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 6:16 PM To: STMFC@... Subject: RE: [STMFC] weathering with artist oil paint This should not take too long (24 hours?) as you will be making more of a tinted thinner rather than thin paint. You should also add some Winsor & Newton Liquin to as a flow aid. Don't forget to clear coat the model first as this will also help flow. (I'm not sure about the drying time because working the next day has never been a problem for me.) KL From: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Randy Arnold I have been weathering with acrylic washes but do not like the effects of the surface tension in the water based media. I have started to try and use artist oil paints from a tube. My question is what is the drying time for this method. How many days should one let the model sit before handling it or adding more effects? |
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Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
Weathering with brushed oils is the time-honored method of doing so. Paul Jansen, who pioneered and popularized "weathering" and "aging" in the late '50s and '60s used oils (white, black, burnt sienna, burnt umber, etc.), turps, and the Pactra flat enamels available at that time. I copied his methods during the same period, and I can attest that the effects have stood up very well with interval time and wear.
These days, I am much more comfortable using a combination of Mont Switzer's use of Floquil washes, followed by judicious applications of Bragdon powders. Denny Denny S. Anspach, MD Okoboji, Iowa |
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