Date
1 - 20 of 32
Reweigh rules
|
Norm Buckhart
can anyone sight the Rule number and language that requires 3 year reweighing of cars. thanks in advance, Norm Buckhart
|
|
|
|
Guy Wilber
Norm Buckhart wrote:
can anyone sight the Rule number and language that requires 3 yearInterchange Rule 30. What year, what car construction, and information do you seek? The Rule and charts cover three pages. Bear in mind that subsequent reweigh periods were not always 36 months, they were more frequent early on. Regards, Guy Wilber Sparks, Nevada [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
|
|
|
Norm Buckhart
wow - ok - generally around 1936-1955. I'm working on boxcar decals during this period. Norm
On Nov 30, 2011, at 4:59 PM, Guy Wilber wrote: Norm Buckhart wrote:can anyone sight the Rule number and language that requires 3 yearInterchange Rule 30. What year, what car construction, and information do you seek? The Rule and charts cover three pages. Bear in mind that subsequent reweigh periods were not always 36 months, they were more frequent early on. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
|
|
|
Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Norm Buckhart wrote:Guy Wilber replied:can anyone sight the Rule number and language that requires 3 year reweighing of cars. Interchange Rule 30. What year, what car construction, and information do you seek? The Rule and charts cover three pages. Bear in mind that subsequent reweigh periods were not always 36 months, they were more frequent early on.And after 1948 (I forget the month) reweigh for most cars after the first reweigh was 48 months, not 36. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history
|
|
|
|
Norm Buckhart
that may be enough information. So as I understand it - for a car say
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
built Dec 1945, the first reweigh date would be in 36 months - or Dec 1948, but then the second reweigh date might be Dec 51 or more probably Dec 52. I think I can go from there. Frank Peacock has sent me about 20 pages of reweigh station symbols by railroad so I think I can provide some meaningful decal sheets. Thanks, Norm
On Nov 30, 2011, at 5:23 PM, Anthony Thompson wrote:
Norm Buckhart wrote:Guy Wilber replied:can anyone sight the Rule number and language that requires 3 year
|
|
|
|
william darnaby
I just looked this up as I was applying proper dates to cars. According to
my 1/53 ORER, page 753, under Rule 11 of Code of Car Service Rules the first reweigh for all steel house cars was 30 months and 48 months for subsequent reweighs. Bill Darnaby
|
|
|
|
Guy Wilber
On Nov 30, 2011, at 5:33 PM, Norm Buckhart wrote:
that may be enough information. So as I understand it - for a car say
|
|
|
|
Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Norm Buckhart wrote:
that may be enough information. So as I understand it - for a car say built Dec 1945, the first reweigh date would be in 36 months - or DecNorm, it depends on car type, among other things. I made a table of the rules for the late 1930s to 1960s, which was supposed to be in the article I did on reweigh dates for Railroad Model Craftsman_ but somewhere in the production process it got mutilated. A full version is available on Google Docs at this link: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0Bz_ctrHrDz4wYzQ1YzZmZWEtNjU2ZS00Y2RjLTkyYTQtYjJkOWNiZDFlM2Y3&hl=en and the table is on the second page; or you can find it via my blog post on the subject, at: http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/03/reweigh-article-from-rmc.html Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history
|
|
|
|
Bill
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Yep, that's what I use as a rule when decaling -- 2.5 yrs for 1st reweigh, 6.5 yrs for 2nd, 10.5 for 3rd, etc. (The 1st is the more critical; others can be skewed by years in either direction) When reweighing a LOT of freight cars for the 1956-1960 era, I'm shocked by how LITTLE decal material is available for the post-1950 era. For example Ted Culotta's beautiful decal sets have like 13 or 14 1940's reweigh dates and maybe 1 post-1953 date. Very frustrating. Thank goodness for Champ's excellent data sets, but I'm using mine up quickly, and they're no longer made. Tim O'Connor
I just looked this up as I was applying proper dates to cars. According to
|
|
|
|
Thanks Tony. I think I should return the favor, and point out that
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
SP 82940 was a B-50-21 that had Equipco hand brakes (not Ajax) and a US Gypsum running board (not wood). I'll forgive the trucks since no one makes an ASF truck w/ spring planks. :-) :-) yer helpful buddy Tim
|
|
|
|
william darnaby
Yeah...that's also my beef with the Sunshine reweigh decals. Well done with
repack data and air brake data but you might get one date from the 50's for each railroad. I guess the late 40's is Martin's period of interest. I too, have just about used up my Champ stuff. Bill Darnaby When reweighing a LOT of freight cars for the 1956-1960 era, I'm shocked by how LITTLE decal material is available for the post-1950 era. For example Ted Culotta's beautiful decal sets have like 13 or 14 1940's reweigh dates and maybe 1 post-1953 date. Very frustrating. Thank goodness for Champ's excellent data sets, but I'm using mine up quickly, and they're no longer made. Tim O'Connor ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|
|
Sounds like a easy sell to Jerry Glow. I too am piecing Champ together.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Brian Carlson
--- On Thu, 12/1/11, William Darnaby <wdarnaby@...> wrote:
From: William Darnaby <wdarnaby@...> Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Reweigh rules To: STMFC@... Date: Thursday, December 1, 2011, 10:16 AM Yeah...that's also my beef with the Sunshine reweigh decals. Well done with repack data and air brake data but you might get one date from the 50's for each railroad. I guess the late 40's is Martin's period of interest. I too, have just about used up my Champ stuff. Bill Darnaby [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
|
|
|
On Dec 1, 2011, at 9:16 AM, William Darnaby wrote:
Yeah...that's also my beef with the Sunshine reweigh decals. Well done withBill, Folks, That's why I have very fine scissors and strong reading glasses at my modeling bench <VBG> I've lost count of the reweigh dates I've cut apart and pieced back together to get them in the correct time frame for June of 1944... Needless to say, I don't usually float single digits in a bucket of water when decaling either! Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/ "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield." __ / \ __<+--+>________________\__/___ ________________________________ |- ______/ O O \_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ | | / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 \ | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__|| |/_____________________________\|_|________________________________| | O--O \0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0
|
|
|
|
pullmanboss <tcmadden@...>
Bruce Smith wrote:
For very tiny decal bits I use a pin to place a small drop of water on the tip of my left index finger and put the decal on that. The decal will come loose in a few seconds but not float free. (That's why the "small drop".) Use fine tweezers to place the decal near where you want it on the model, then nudge the decal off the backing and into position. I use this technique for any decal smaller than my fingertip because it's much easier than chasing a floating decal across the surface of a water dish, or retreiving it from the bottom of the dish. (I use a shallow dark brown plastic cereal dish.) Like many techniques, it takes longer to describe than do, and I suspect many of you have long since figured this one out too. Tom Madden
|
|
|
|
pullmanboss <tcmadden@...>
Bruce Smith wrote:
For very tiny decal bits I use a pin to place a small drop of water on the tip of my left index finger and put the decal on that. The decal will come loose in a few seconds but not float free. (That's why the "small drop".) Use fine tweezers to place the decal near where you want it on the model, then nudge the decal off the backing and into position. I use this technique for any decal smaller than my fingertip because it's much easier than chasing a floating decal across the surface of a water dish, or retreiving it from the bottom of the dish. (I use a shallow dark brown plastic cereal dish.) Like many techniques, it takes longer to describe than do, and I suspect many of you have long since figured this one out too. Tom Madden
|
|
|
|
Joel Holmes <lehighvalley@...>
Hi Tom,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
That is the way I have been applying decals for over 40 years now. I also use a small screwdriver to lift the numbers off my finger and nudge them in place. Often a car number has from 2 to 6 separate numbers. Pullman names can have even more letters. Joel Holmes
Bruce Smith wrote:For very tiny decal bits I use a pin to place a small drop of water on the
|
|
|
|
Norm Buckhart
Tony - got both and printed them out. thanks, norm
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Nov 30, 2011, at 10:24 PM, Anthony Thompson wrote:
Norm Buckhart wrote:that may be enough information. So as I understand it - for a carNorm, it depends on car type, among other things. I made a table
|
|
|
|
Bruce
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
lol! yep, I do that too... except do you how RARE the digit "5" is on some reweigh decals? Plus because I need "56" "57" etc, it usually means TWO single digits in a bucket of water! I just hope my eyesight holds out. Tim O'
Bill, Folks,
|
|
|
|
jerryglow2
Been there done that for custom orders. I do not do a "generic" set but if you send me a text file of the dates and locations along with font type and color and you can have them.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Jerry Glow
--- In STMFC@..., Brian Carlson <prrk41361@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Tom,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Nice trick! I went positively -bonkers- several years ago when I did up my own BN center beam cars - more than 160 individual decals to apply to each car (IIRC I did 2 of them and still have a couple more that are painted but not decalled in some project box or other). Which probably helps explain a lot of things about me you've all been talking about for so long ... **** So ... why not put the drop of water right on the car and put the dry decal in that to float off and slide into position - thus eliminating the transfer using tweezers entirely? In thinking about it I think the next time I have some of these small decals I will try putting the decal on the car with its backing very near to its final location -and then adding a drop of water over it and sliding "almost directly to where it wants to be". Seems like it should work. Is there a fly in this ointment? **** Some other questions that have probably been answered before but my center beam addled brain doesn't recall ... If a car was off-a-wandering when it was time to reweigh ... was it done by the other road or did it wait until it came back to its home rails? I assume the cars were weighed empty and not loaded - so were cars routed to a reweigh location (for that purpose) or did they just wait until they were empty at one of those locations? It would seem that individual cars -might- have 'missed' their reweigh dates by several months or even a year or more. Correct? - Jim (C.B.A.B.)
--- In STMFC@..., "pullmanboss" <tcmadden@...> wrote:
|
|
|