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Paint question
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Pierre
I'm switching over to acrylic paints and thinking of trying Model flex or Polly Scale, any ideas or comments. Pierre
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Bill Welch
Pierre:
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I use mostly Modelflex but Polly Scale has some colors I like too, Aged or Tarnished Black (can't remember exactly) and their several BC reds and browns. They will require a larger orifice than you are probably accustomed to. After struggling for sometime for several years with a Binks-Wren SA that I had purchased as a teen, I purchased the Badger Anthem one year at the NMRA National Train Show at a very good price. They had just been introduced and was designed for water based paints. Just the ticket. You will also want to use a lower air-pressure, 18-20 PSI. Also stir, do not shake. You know where I am if you have more questions. Any highlights from Springfield? Bill Welch --- In STMFC@..., "Pierre" <pierreferland2010@...> wrote:
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Pierre
Bill, thank you for your comments, I have a Badger 200 single action with a medium tip and my compressor has a pressure regulator so I'll have to do some testing. I've heard that Tamiya X-20A (thinner) can be used with any paint and it also contains some retarder but some use distilled water, any ideas on that?
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--- In STMFC@..., "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:
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Bill, in your experience with these paints have you had trouble with the
water based paints sticking to resin kits? I have been using lacquer based for years and when I have tried the water based paints they seem to chip or scratch very easily on resin cars, where the lacquer based paints hold much better. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Fenton Wells On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 8:20 PM, lnbill <fgexbill@...> wrote: ** -- Fenton Wells 3047 Creek Run Sanford NC 27332 919-499-5545 srrfan1401@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Joe Gartman <josephgartman@...>
This might seem strange to some, but the best results I have had with resin has been Testors Model Master line of enamels. The downside is the lack of "railroad" colors...
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Joe Gartman Locomotive Engineer, BNSF Bakersfield, CA ----- Original Message -----
From: "O Fenton Wells" <srrfan1401@...> To: <STMFC@...> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 5:51 PM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Paint question Bill, in your experience with these paints have you had trouble with the |
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Jim Hayes
I've found acrylic paint over resin to be a little delicate when fresh. As
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soon as it's dry, I give it a shot of Clear-cote and then don't have problems. Jim On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 5:51 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...>wrote:
Bill, in your experience with these paints have you had trouble with the |
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Bill Welch
Fenton
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I have not had any problem with adherence. I always wash them thoroughly and sometimes will also go over them with denatured alcohol. Bill Welch --- In STMFC@..., O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:
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Good to know, thanks
Fenton Wells On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 9:31 PM, Joe Gartman <josephgartman@...>wrote: ** -- Fenton Wells 3047 Creek Run Sanford NC 27332 919-499-5545 srrfan1401@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Thanks Bill. I use windshield washer liquid ans sometimes alcohol as well
but for some reason the paint finish seem more 'fragile' than lacquer paints. I'll keep trying as I am getting much pressure from my wife. Fenton Wells On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 9:40 PM, lnbill <fgexbill@...> wrote: ** -- Fenton Wells 3047 Creek Run Sanford NC 27332 919-499-5545 srrfan1401@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Charles Hladik
Fenton,
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I've heard of using washer fluid as "thinner" but not for cleaning, stick with the alcohol. Chuck Hladik In a message dated 1/29/2012 9:43:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
srrfan1401@... writes: Thanks Bill. I use windshield washer liquid ans sometimes alcohol as well but for some reason the paint finish seem more 'fragile' than lacquer paints. I'll keep trying as I am getting much pressure from my wife. Fenton Wells On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 9:40 PM, lnbill <fgexbill@...> wrote: **the chipwater based paints sticking to resin kits? I have been using lacquerbasedfor years and when I have tried the water based paints they seem to orandscratch very easily on resin cars, where the lacquer based paints holdmuchbetter.> > > browns. They will require a larger orifice than you are probablyyear atdothe NMRA National Train Show at a very good price. They had just been -- Fenton Wells 3047 Creek Run Sanford NC 27332 919-499-5545 srrfan1401@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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I have been using Polly for years. recently I bought a mechanical Tea bag at IKEA. It is a scissors like device with 2 semi round screens. I use it to screen out silod matter from the paint before I pour it into my feed cup.
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I have started making my own seals for the lids to replace the battered card stock seals that are on the bottles. I use the seal from my maintenance meds from Express scripts. I suppose if you are in perfect health you could use .10 styrene and cut your own. I like to keep my pressure at 35 PSI and thin with bottled water. I have used a Pasche H with a #3 tip but have switched to a #5. It's much better and doesn't clog as fast. At Trainfest I spoke to the Iwata reps and they suggested using anything but Polly. Ufortunately it's more available in my area. The plus side is it does brush quite well and levels nice and flat. I wash all my cars with Dawn (which now has an extreme formula) spray direct to the models, gloss coat with Future and flat finish with Polly Flat. My cars get handled and I haven't noticed any scratches or chips. Some wear on the brass grabs but I don't blast before I paint so it serves me right. Rob Manley Midwest Mod-U-Trak "Better modeling through personal embarrassment" ----- Original Message -----
From: Pierre To: STMFC@... Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 6:32 PM Subject: [STMFC] Paint question I'm switching over to acrylic paints and thinking of trying Model flex or Polly Scale, any ideas or comments. Pierre |
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Andy Harman
At 12:32 AM 1/30/2012 -0000, you wrote:
I'm switching over to acrylic paintsHow come? Andy |
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OK thanks, and alcohol is faster.
Fenton On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 9:45 PM, <RUTLANDRS@...> wrote: ** -- Fenton Wells 3047 Creek Run Sanford NC 27332 919-499-5545 srrfan1401@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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On Jan 29, 2012, at 6:32 PM, Pierre wrote:
I'm switching over to acrylic paints and thinking of trying Model flex or Polly Scale, any ideas or comments. PierreWhen painting with acrylics, the mantra is "keep the air dry, keep the paint wet". - thin with DI water - thinning with alcohol causes the paint to dry to quickly (retarder might be good... never tried it) - never blow air through a dirty brush (dual action brushes can do this) as the paint will dry inside quite quickly - I spray at 25 psi - drop the airbrush in a bucket of water between colors - run water or cleaner through the brush frequently while painting I paint almost exclusive with acrylics and love the results, but there is no question that it is harder than enamels. I use Poly Scale (OK), Model Master (Wonderful) and Vallejo (nice paints but really thick, thin the heck out of them). Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/ "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield." __ / \ __<+--+>________________\__/___ ________________________________ |- ______/ O O \_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ | | / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 \ | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__|| |/_____________________________\|_|________________________________| | O--O \0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0 |
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Fenton,
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First, a nit to pick, these paints are technically NOT water based. The solvent is alcohol. Because alcohol is water SOLUBLE, these paints are also water SOLUBLE. As for adherence, I've never had a problem on resin or plastic (brass... definitely an issue!). I usually prep resin with grit blasting and washing in DAWN. Never handle the model with bare hands after washing. When painting brass, I will usually use an enamel base coat for better adherence. Regards Bruce Smith Auburn, AL On Jan 29, 2012, at 7:51 PM, O Fenton Wells wrote:
Bill, in your experience with these paints have you had trouble with the |
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Good points Bruce. Probably the one thing I don't do and probably won't is
grit blast. I've been very successful with lacquer for over 30 years and will probably continue. That limits me to painting while my wife is out as my spray booth does a pretty good job over an hour or two (it is upstairs, as I lost my basement when I retired, showing what a poor negotiator I am). I do use the acrylics with a brush and may continue to try my luck with the air brush and the ALCOHOL soluble paints, as I have found that practice makes better (in my case not perfect). Thanks for every one's input. Good stuff. Fenton Wells On Mon, Jan 30, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote: ** -- Fenton Wells 3047 Creek Run Sanford NC 27332 919-499-5545 srrfan1401@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Aley, Jeff A
Bruce,
"Model Master"? Did you mean Modelflex? Regards, -Jeff From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Bruce Smith I paint almost exclusive with acrylics and love the results, but there is no question that it is harder than enamels. I use Poly Scale (OK), Model Master (Wonderful) and Vallejo (nice paints but really thick, thin the heck out of them). |
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Jeff,
No, Model Master - from Testors. http://www.testors.com/category/136645/Acryl_Paints Regards Bruce Bruce,"Aley, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Aley@...> 01/30/12 10:19 AM >>> "Model Master"? Did you mean Modelflex? Regards, -Jeff From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Bruce Smith I paint almost exclusive with acrylics and love the results, but there is no question that it is harder than enamels. I use Poly Scale (OK), Model Master (Wonderful) and Vallejo (nice paints but really thick, thin the heck out of them). ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Jeff & Fenton, I have had very good luck with ModelFlex, after a time of
learning how . And my wife loves the lack of odor. I love the easy cleanup. Bruce lists some fine points. Here are a couple more, esp for ModelFlex: . Use an airbrush designed for Acrylic paints, or get the largest tip/needle your existing airbrush will take. Acrylic paints have a much "thicker" carrier, and need a larger hole to spray properly. Also some companies have a special crown tip that clogs less. . Ammonia based products can be used to clean your airbrush when using acrylics, which is why Windex or similar window cleaning liquid work great, they contain ammonia. Do not uses it to thin the paint, it will ruin your paint as the Ammonia breaks down the paint. This will even work on dried paint to some extent. . If you make a mistake while painting, 140 degree water will strip ModelFlex within the first 10 minutes after spraying. . Freezing will ruin paint. If you mail/internet order your paint for home delivery avoid mid-winter deliveries if you live in snow country. UPS trucks are not heated. Don't let a delivery sit on your front step all day. I would also be cautious of "fresh" stock at the hobby shop during the winter months. . Badger will replace free of charge any ModelFlex paint that goes bad. ModelFlex is thinned and ready for Spraying. Other brands of Acrylics are not, and must be thinned. All acrylics should be strained. I use a screen over the end of my pickup tube (Badger sells them). Doug Harding www.iowacentralrr.org |
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North Model Railroad Supplies <nmrs@...>
Hi Pierre,
Yes, I've used both with some initial issues but then success. Pollyscale dries pretty flat. Badger dries egg shell or semi gloss. Successful airbrushing with acrylics requires some charges from solvent based paints. 1) Less pressure say high teens rather than the 30psi you would use with solvent based paints. 2) A larger needle and tip allow the material to flow - I swapped from a No3 to a No5 in my Paasche H. 3) Definitely use retarder (Badger make it) in the paint to slow the drying time or the paint will dry in the gun. 4) On a bigger job, I'll stop halfway through and purge the gun with clean water, to clear out any paint building up in the gun 5) I've used distilled water and airbrush thinners and both work. 6) Just like solvent based paints, thin to a milky (4% milk I think its called in the US) consistency. 7) Dry between coats with a hair dryer (be careful with heat around fine details - they can curl and distort with too much heat) . You can literally see the paint dry as the hair dryer evaporates the water/thinners. 8) I typically hold the gun about 8" from the work and move steadily across the work. 9) Don't try to build up too many coats wet. 10) If you get a run, you can often wash the paint off under a cold or warm water tap, so long as the paint is still wet. If hand brushing, brush in one direction only and lay down one MAYBE two passes with the brush, then stop and allow to dry. Coverage and finish will look really poor, but don't worry. I use a hair dryer to dry between coats. Repeat one to two brush strokes in the same direction then stop again and hair dry. After a few coats the finish will start to look great. Patience and no panic is the key word. Hope this gives you some general ideas to start with Regards, David North |
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