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Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]
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Jim Williams <wwww5960@...>
Tim......You can ACC some styrene in the hole and drill and tap.......I've done this many times....best Jim W.
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Thanks Andy that's a good idea. I've filled, redrilled and tapped holes on plastic cars but I've
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never tried it with brass. And I've modified some brass freight cars, so I have no qualms about that. Tim O'Connor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Sperandeo" <asperandeo@yahoo.com> To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2012 2:35:15 PM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard] Well Tim, If it were my brass car I know what I'd do. I'd solder brass 2-mm screws into the kingpin holes, cut them off flush, drill them no. 50 and tap them 2-56, and install the Tahoe Model Works trucks with 2-56 screws. You still need a shoulder, but the sleeves in the Kadee no. 213 gear box kit work for that, or you can slice the hollow bosses off the lids of Kadee no. 232 coupler boxes (the ones that come with no. 5 couplers). Making a car work on the railroad is more important to me than preserving the original form of even a limited-run model. So long, Andy
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Andy Sperandeo
Well Tim,
If it were my brass car I know what I'd do. I'd solder brass 2-mm screws into the kingpin holes, cut them off flush, drill them no. 50 and tap them 2-56, and install the Tahoe Model Works trucks with 2-56 screws. You still need a shoulder, but the sleeves in the Kadee no. 213 gear box kit work for that, or you can slice the hollow bosses off the lids of Kadee no. 232 coupler boxes (the ones that come with no. 5 couplers). Making a car work on the railroad is more important to me than preserving the original form of even a limited-run model. So long, Andy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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