Date
1 - 16 of 16
Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
asychis@...
I'm working on the excellent Boaz resin flatcar kits and wanted to get some
feedback on making consistently straight cuts for the styrene channel
material for the stake pockets. I use an NWSL Chopper and it seems no matter
what I do, the blade deflects when I make a cut and the pieces are not
straight. Is there some better technique or am I missing some procedure using
the Chopper. This is a problem for me using both the older model with the
hardboard base or the newer models with the plastic mat base.
Thanks,
Jerry Michels
feedback on making consistently straight cuts for the styrene channel
material for the stake pockets. I use an NWSL Chopper and it seems no matter
what I do, the blade deflects when I make a cut and the pieces are not
straight. Is there some better technique or am I missing some procedure using
the Chopper. This is a problem for me using both the older model with the
hardboard base or the newer models with the plastic mat base.
Thanks,
Jerry Michels
Jack Burgess <jack@...>
<I'm working on the excellent Boaz resin flatcar kits and wanted to get
<some feedback on making consistently straight cuts for the styrene
<channel material for the stake pockets. I use an NWSL Chopper and it
<seems no matter what I do, the blade deflects when I make a cut and the
<pieces are not straight. Is there some better technique or am I missing
<some procedure using the Chopper. This is a problem for me using both
<the older model with the hardboard base or the newer models with the
<plastic mat base.
<
<Thanks,
<
<Jerry Michels
I don't think that the blade is deflecting but that the thin styrene is
flexing. Think of the problem of cutting some HO 1x8s held vertically...as
the blade starts to cut, the strip flexes, resulting in a bad cut.
I'd cut with the base of the channel down (like I'd assuming that you're
doing) but with a piece of stripwood shoved into the space between the webs
to support the webs. You might need to glue a couple of pieces of stripwood
together to fit tightly or sand a thicker one. You could also put a larger
(such as an 8x8) piece of stripwood up against the fence of the chopper and
another on the outside of the channel and hold the combination tightly
together as you make your cut...the pieces of 8x8 stripwood would then
support both the outsides and insides of the channel webs. The combination
would keep the webs from flexing as you make your cut. I'd first try to make
a cut with the stripwood (outside supports and the piece inside) just short
of where you need to cut. If that supports the channel enough, then you
would be needlessly cutting the pieces of stripwood with each cut. If that
doesn't work and the channel is still flexing, then move the stripwood
pieces forward enough so that just the minimum stripwood is cut with each
chop.
Make sense?
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
<some feedback on making consistently straight cuts for the styrene
<channel material for the stake pockets. I use an NWSL Chopper and it
<seems no matter what I do, the blade deflects when I make a cut and the
<pieces are not straight. Is there some better technique or am I missing
<some procedure using the Chopper. This is a problem for me using both
<the older model with the hardboard base or the newer models with the
<plastic mat base.
<
<Thanks,
<
<Jerry Michels
I don't think that the blade is deflecting but that the thin styrene is
flexing. Think of the problem of cutting some HO 1x8s held vertically...as
the blade starts to cut, the strip flexes, resulting in a bad cut.
I'd cut with the base of the channel down (like I'd assuming that you're
doing) but with a piece of stripwood shoved into the space between the webs
to support the webs. You might need to glue a couple of pieces of stripwood
together to fit tightly or sand a thicker one. You could also put a larger
(such as an 8x8) piece of stripwood up against the fence of the chopper and
another on the outside of the channel and hold the combination tightly
together as you make your cut...the pieces of 8x8 stripwood would then
support both the outsides and insides of the channel webs. The combination
would keep the webs from flexing as you make your cut. I'd first try to make
a cut with the stripwood (outside supports and the piece inside) just short
of where you need to cut. If that supports the channel enough, then you
would be needlessly cutting the pieces of stripwood with each cut. If that
doesn't work and the channel is still flexing, then move the stripwood
pieces forward enough so that just the minimum stripwood is cut with each
chop.
Make sense?
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
Steve SANDIFER
There used to be some chopper type cutters that not only cut down, but
sliced through the material. I wish I had one as I am sure they would do a
much better job. Slicing is better than chopping.
______________________________________________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Jack
Burgess
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 9:14 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
<I'm working on the excellent Boaz resin flatcar kits and wanted to get
<some feedback on making consistently straight cuts for the styrene
<channel material for the stake pockets. I use an NWSL Chopper and it
<seems no matter what I do, the blade deflects when I make a cut and the
<pieces are not straight. Is there some better technique or am I missing
<some procedure using the Chopper. This is a problem for me using both
<the older model with the hardboard base or the newer models with the
<plastic mat base.
<
<Thanks,
<
<Jerry Michels
I don't think that the blade is deflecting but that the thin styrene is
flexing. Think of the problem of cutting some HO 1x8s held vertically...as
the blade starts to cut, the strip flexes, resulting in a bad cut.
I'd cut with the base of the channel down (like I'd assuming that you're
doing) but with a piece of stripwood shoved into the space between the webs
to support the webs. You might need to glue a couple of pieces of stripwood
together to fit tightly or sand a thicker one. You could also put a larger
(such as an 8x8) piece of stripwood up against the fence of the chopper and
another on the outside of the channel and hold the combination tightly
together as you make your cut...the pieces of 8x8 stripwood would then
support both the outsides and insides of the channel webs. The combination
would keep the webs from flexing as you make your cut. I'd first try to make
a cut with the stripwood (outside supports and the piece inside) just short
of where you need to cut. If that supports the channel enough, then you
would be needlessly cutting the pieces of stripwood with each cut. If that
doesn't work and the channel is still flexing, then move the stripwood
pieces forward enough so that just the minimum stripwood is cut with each
chop.
Make sense?
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
sliced through the material. I wish I had one as I am sure they would do a
much better job. Slicing is better than chopping.
______________________________________________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Jack
Burgess
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 9:14 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
<I'm working on the excellent Boaz resin flatcar kits and wanted to get
<some feedback on making consistently straight cuts for the styrene
<channel material for the stake pockets. I use an NWSL Chopper and it
<seems no matter what I do, the blade deflects when I make a cut and the
<pieces are not straight. Is there some better technique or am I missing
<some procedure using the Chopper. This is a problem for me using both
<the older model with the hardboard base or the newer models with the
<plastic mat base.
<
<Thanks,
<
<Jerry Michels
I don't think that the blade is deflecting but that the thin styrene is
flexing. Think of the problem of cutting some HO 1x8s held vertically...as
the blade starts to cut, the strip flexes, resulting in a bad cut.
I'd cut with the base of the channel down (like I'd assuming that you're
doing) but with a piece of stripwood shoved into the space between the webs
to support the webs. You might need to glue a couple of pieces of stripwood
together to fit tightly or sand a thicker one. You could also put a larger
(such as an 8x8) piece of stripwood up against the fence of the chopper and
another on the outside of the channel and hold the combination tightly
together as you make your cut...the pieces of 8x8 stripwood would then
support both the outsides and insides of the channel webs. The combination
would keep the webs from flexing as you make your cut. I'd first try to make
a cut with the stripwood (outside supports and the piece inside) just short
of where you need to cut. If that supports the channel enough, then you
would be needlessly cutting the pieces of stripwood with each cut. If that
doesn't work and the channel is still flexing, then move the stripwood
pieces forward enough so that just the minimum stripwood is cut with each
chop.
Make sense?
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
John Hagen
Jack,
In my experience I do believe the blade does deflect on my Chopper 2. There
is too much play where the lever pivots on its axle. I intend (someday, I
need to get one of them "round to its") to replace the axle with a much
longer rod to which I will permanently affix the lever so the whole assembly
is "welded" together as one piece. Then I will have to install bearing
blocks, probably four, two on each side of the lever for the purpose of
keeping the lever and the blade in the lever perfectly vertical.
I do not mean to say that the item being cut is not also flexing but I do
feel that all possible movement of the lever as regards it being
perpendicular to the base must be eliminated.
When I get a "round to it" I'll report on the results.
John Hagen
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Jack
Burgess
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 9:14 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
I don't think that the blade is deflecting but that the thin styrene is
flexing. Think of the problem of cutting some HO 1x8s held vertically...as
the blade starts to cut, the strip flexes, resulting in a bad cut.
I'd cut with the base of the channel down (like I'd assuming that you're
doing) but with a piece of stripwood shoved into the space between the webs
to support the webs. You might need to glue a couple of pieces of stripwood
together to fit tightly or sand a thicker one. You could also put a larger
(such as an 8x8) piece of stripwood up against the fence of the chopper and
another on the outside of the channel and hold the combination tightly
together as you make your cut...the pieces of 8x8 stripwood would then
support both the outsides and insides of the channel webs. The combination
would keep the webs from flexing as you make your cut. I'd first try to make
a cut with the stripwood (outside supports and the piece inside) just short
of where you need to cut. If that supports the channel enough, then you
would be needlessly cutting the pieces of stripwood with each cut. If that
doesn't work and the channel is still flexing, then move the stripwood
pieces forward enough so that just the minimum stripwood is cut with each
chop.
Make sense?
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
In my experience I do believe the blade does deflect on my Chopper 2. There
is too much play where the lever pivots on its axle. I intend (someday, I
need to get one of them "round to its") to replace the axle with a much
longer rod to which I will permanently affix the lever so the whole assembly
is "welded" together as one piece. Then I will have to install bearing
blocks, probably four, two on each side of the lever for the purpose of
keeping the lever and the blade in the lever perfectly vertical.
I do not mean to say that the item being cut is not also flexing but I do
feel that all possible movement of the lever as regards it being
perpendicular to the base must be eliminated.
When I get a "round to it" I'll report on the results.
John Hagen
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Jack
Burgess
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 9:14 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
I don't think that the blade is deflecting but that the thin styrene is
flexing. Think of the problem of cutting some HO 1x8s held vertically...as
the blade starts to cut, the strip flexes, resulting in a bad cut.
I'd cut with the base of the channel down (like I'd assuming that you're
doing) but with a piece of stripwood shoved into the space between the webs
to support the webs. You might need to glue a couple of pieces of stripwood
together to fit tightly or sand a thicker one. You could also put a larger
(such as an 8x8) piece of stripwood up against the fence of the chopper and
another on the outside of the channel and hold the combination tightly
together as you make your cut...the pieces of 8x8 stripwood would then
support both the outsides and insides of the channel webs. The combination
would keep the webs from flexing as you make your cut. I'd first try to make
a cut with the stripwood (outside supports and the piece inside) just short
of where you need to cut. If that supports the channel enough, then you
would be needlessly cutting the pieces of stripwood with each cut. If that
doesn't work and the channel is still flexing, then move the stripwood
pieces forward enough so that just the minimum stripwood is cut with each
chop.
Make sense?
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
I modified my NWSL chopper by putting down two parallel pieces of brass with
just enough room between them for the razor blade. This harder surface combined
with the blade sinking through the slot seems to help to prevent the blade from
deflecting and/or pinching the material. Also the material itself has to be secured
(immovable) while the cut is made.
Tim O'
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
just enough room between them for the razor blade. This harder surface combined
with the blade sinking through the slot seems to help to prevent the blade from
deflecting and/or pinching the material. Also the material itself has to be secured
(immovable) while the cut is made.
Tim O'
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 10:39:52 AM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
There used to be some chopper type cutters that not only cut down, but
sliced through the material. I wish I had one as I am sure they would do a
much better job. Slicing is better than chopping.
I don't think that the blade is deflecting but that the thin styrene is
flexing. Think of the problem of cutting some HO 1x8s held vertically...as
the blade starts to cut, the strip flexes, resulting in a bad cut.
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
From: "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 10:39:52 AM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
There used to be some chopper type cutters that not only cut down, but
sliced through the material. I wish I had one as I am sure they would do a
much better job. Slicing is better than chopping.
I don't think that the blade is deflecting but that the thin styrene is
flexing. Think of the problem of cutting some HO 1x8s held vertically...as
the blade starts to cut, the strip flexes, resulting in a bad cut.
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
I have one additional suggestion in addition to Jack's excellent advice.
With repeated use, the blade creates a grove in the Chopper I and Chopper
III fiberboard mat (if that's the version you use). The material you're
trying to cut may be depressed into the grove, resulting in uneven cuts. The
surface under the blade must be perfectly level, with no visible grove. The
suggested remedy is to fill the grove with epoxy. I have a Chopper III, so I
just moved the lever to next mounting location on the board. Eventually I'll
have three groves to fill, since there are three mounting locations on the
board.
Nelson Moyer
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
With repeated use, the blade creates a grove in the Chopper I and Chopper
III fiberboard mat (if that's the version you use). The material you're
trying to cut may be depressed into the grove, resulting in uneven cuts. The
surface under the blade must be perfectly level, with no visible grove. The
suggested remedy is to fill the grove with epoxy. I have a Chopper III, so I
just moved the lever to next mounting location on the board. Eventually I'll
have three groves to fill, since there are three mounting locations on the
board.
Nelson Moyer
-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
asychis@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 8:25 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
I'm working on the excellent Boaz resin flatcar kits and wanted to get some
feedback on making consistently straight cuts for the styrene channel
material for the stake pockets. I use an NWSL Chopper and it seems no matter
what I do, the blade deflects when I make a cut and the pieces are not
straight. Is there some better technique or am I missing some procedure
using
the Chopper. This is a problem for me using both the older model with the
hardboard base or the newer models with the plastic mat base.
Thanks,
Jerry Michels
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
asychis@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 8:25 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
I'm working on the excellent Boaz resin flatcar kits and wanted to get some
feedback on making consistently straight cuts for the styrene channel
material for the stake pockets. I use an NWSL Chopper and it seems no matter
what I do, the blade deflects when I make a cut and the pieces are not
straight. Is there some better technique or am I missing some procedure
using
the Chopper. This is a problem for me using both the older model with the
hardboard base or the newer models with the plastic mat base.
Thanks,
Jerry Michels
Jack Burgess <jack@...>
<I have one additional suggestion in addition to Jack's excellent advice.
<With repeated use, the blade creates a grove in the Chopper I and
<Chopper III fiberboard mat (if that's the version you use). The
<material you're trying to cut may be depressed into the grove, resulting
<in uneven cuts. The surface under the blade must be perfectly level,
<with no visible grove. The suggested remedy is to fill the grove with
<epoxy. I have a Chopper III, so I just moved the lever to next mounting
<location on the board. Eventually I'll have three groves to fill, since
<there are three mounting locations on the board.
<
<
<
<Nelson Moyer
I have my original Chopper from 40 years ago in addition to a Chopper II. I
don't like the Chopper II since the razor blade is closer to the lever pivot
point and therefore isn't as high above the working surface as the original
Chopper, making it easier to cut yourself while pulling cut parts out from
under the blade.
However, rather than continually fighting the grove in the fiberboard, I
came up with a fix several decades ago which completely eliminates that
problem. I first inserted a square of .040" styrene under the aluminum angle
supporting the lever (thus raising the lever up .040"). Another piece of
.040" styrene, about 4" long by 2" wide, is clamped to the original aluminum
fence using the Chopper clamps to form a new cutting surface. This piece of
styrene has a styrene fence glued to it, exactly parallel to the back edge
of the new cutting surface. This new fence (styrene 6x10 or so) is in two
pieces so that the blade comes down between them. The spacer under the blade
assembly results in the razor blade being parallel to the new cutting
surface. Another piece of .040" styrene with a piece of 12x12 styrene glued
to it is used as a stop when cutting multiple pieces using the Chopper
clamp.
The new styrene cutting surface completely eliminates the "groove"
problem...I think that I'm still using the styrene cutting surface that I
fabricated a few decades ago. I have other pieces of .040" styrene with the
fence at 45 degrees, 30 degrees, etc. for cutting angles, rafter tails, etc.
This modification is hard to describe without photos. If there is interest,
I'll post a couple of photos of the modification.
Jack Burgess
<With repeated use, the blade creates a grove in the Chopper I and
<Chopper III fiberboard mat (if that's the version you use). The
<material you're trying to cut may be depressed into the grove, resulting
<in uneven cuts. The surface under the blade must be perfectly level,
<with no visible grove. The suggested remedy is to fill the grove with
<epoxy. I have a Chopper III, so I just moved the lever to next mounting
<location on the board. Eventually I'll have three groves to fill, since
<there are three mounting locations on the board.
<
<
<
<Nelson Moyer
I have my original Chopper from 40 years ago in addition to a Chopper II. I
don't like the Chopper II since the razor blade is closer to the lever pivot
point and therefore isn't as high above the working surface as the original
Chopper, making it easier to cut yourself while pulling cut parts out from
under the blade.
However, rather than continually fighting the grove in the fiberboard, I
came up with a fix several decades ago which completely eliminates that
problem. I first inserted a square of .040" styrene under the aluminum angle
supporting the lever (thus raising the lever up .040"). Another piece of
.040" styrene, about 4" long by 2" wide, is clamped to the original aluminum
fence using the Chopper clamps to form a new cutting surface. This piece of
styrene has a styrene fence glued to it, exactly parallel to the back edge
of the new cutting surface. This new fence (styrene 6x10 or so) is in two
pieces so that the blade comes down between them. The spacer under the blade
assembly results in the razor blade being parallel to the new cutting
surface. Another piece of .040" styrene with a piece of 12x12 styrene glued
to it is used as a stop when cutting multiple pieces using the Chopper
clamp.
The new styrene cutting surface completely eliminates the "groove"
problem...I think that I'm still using the styrene cutting surface that I
fabricated a few decades ago. I have other pieces of .040" styrene with the
fence at 45 degrees, 30 degrees, etc. for cutting angles, rafter tails, etc.
This modification is hard to describe without photos. If there is interest,
I'll post a couple of photos of the modification.
Jack Burgess
Tom Houle <thoule@...>
Jack,
I'd sure like to see photos of your fix.
Thanks,
Tom Houle
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I'd sure like to see photos of your fix.
Thanks,
Tom Houle
-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Jack
Burgess
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:05 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
<I have one additional suggestion in addition to Jack's excellent advice.
<With repeated use, the blade creates a grove in the Chopper I and <Chopper
III fiberboard mat (if that's the version you use). The <material you're
trying to cut may be depressed into the grove, resulting <in uneven cuts.
The surface under the blade must be perfectly level, <with no visible grove.
The suggested remedy is to fill the grove with <epoxy. I have a Chopper III,
so I just moved the lever to next mounting <location on the board.
Eventually I'll have three groves to fill, since <there are three mounting
locations on the board.
<
<
<
<Nelson Moyer
I have my original Chopper from 40 years ago in addition to a Chopper II. I
don't like the Chopper II since the razor blade is closer to the lever pivot
point and therefore isn't as high above the working surface as the original
Chopper, making it easier to cut yourself while pulling cut parts out from
under the blade.
However, rather than continually fighting the grove in the fiberboard, I
came up with a fix several decades ago which completely eliminates that
problem. I first inserted a square of .040" styrene under the aluminum angle
supporting the lever (thus raising the lever up .040"). Another piece of
.040" styrene, about 4" long by 2" wide, is clamped to the original aluminum
fence using the Chopper clamps to form a new cutting surface. This piece of
styrene has a styrene fence glued to it, exactly parallel to the back edge
of the new cutting surface. This new fence (styrene 6x10 or so) is in two
pieces so that the blade comes down between them. The spacer under the blade
assembly results in the razor blade being parallel to the new cutting
surface. Another piece of .040" styrene with a piece of 12x12 styrene glued
to it is used as a stop when cutting multiple pieces using the Chopper
clamp.
The new styrene cutting surface completely eliminates the "groove"
problem...I think that I'm still using the styrene cutting surface that I
fabricated a few decades ago. I have other pieces of .040" styrene with the
fence at 45 degrees, 30 degrees, etc. for cutting angles, rafter tails, etc.
This modification is hard to describe without photos. If there is interest,
I'll post a couple of photos of the modification.
Jack Burgess
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Jack
Burgess
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:05 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
<I have one additional suggestion in addition to Jack's excellent advice.
<With repeated use, the blade creates a grove in the Chopper I and <Chopper
III fiberboard mat (if that's the version you use). The <material you're
trying to cut may be depressed into the grove, resulting <in uneven cuts.
The surface under the blade must be perfectly level, <with no visible grove.
The suggested remedy is to fill the grove with <epoxy. I have a Chopper III,
so I just moved the lever to next mounting <location on the board.
Eventually I'll have three groves to fill, since <there are three mounting
locations on the board.
<
<
<
<Nelson Moyer
I have my original Chopper from 40 years ago in addition to a Chopper II. I
don't like the Chopper II since the razor blade is closer to the lever pivot
point and therefore isn't as high above the working surface as the original
Chopper, making it easier to cut yourself while pulling cut parts out from
under the blade.
However, rather than continually fighting the grove in the fiberboard, I
came up with a fix several decades ago which completely eliminates that
problem. I first inserted a square of .040" styrene under the aluminum angle
supporting the lever (thus raising the lever up .040"). Another piece of
.040" styrene, about 4" long by 2" wide, is clamped to the original aluminum
fence using the Chopper clamps to form a new cutting surface. This piece of
styrene has a styrene fence glued to it, exactly parallel to the back edge
of the new cutting surface. This new fence (styrene 6x10 or so) is in two
pieces so that the blade comes down between them. The spacer under the blade
assembly results in the razor blade being parallel to the new cutting
surface. Another piece of .040" styrene with a piece of 12x12 styrene glued
to it is used as a stop when cutting multiple pieces using the Chopper
clamp.
The new styrene cutting surface completely eliminates the "groove"
problem...I think that I'm still using the styrene cutting surface that I
fabricated a few decades ago. I have other pieces of .040" styrene with the
fence at 45 degrees, 30 degrees, etc. for cutting angles, rafter tails, etc.
This modification is hard to describe without photos. If there is interest,
I'll post a couple of photos of the modification.
Jack Burgess
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
Jack I'd like to see what you did.
Tim O'
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Tim O'
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Burgess" <jack@...>
This modification is hard to describe without photos. If there is interest,
I'll post a couple of photos of the modification.
Jack Burgess
From: "Jack Burgess" <jack@...>
This modification is hard to describe without photos. If there is interest,
I'll post a couple of photos of the modification.
Jack Burgess
Jack Burgess <jack@...>
Fortunately, I checked the Photo albums before unloading anything...I posted
a couple photos of the modifications back in May 2011. They are already in a
folder in the Photos area under the title "NWSL Chopper Mods". The photo
"Chopper 1" shows the .040" riser under the blade/lever assembly and the new
"cutting surface" with its styrene fence. You can see the general
arrangement of the "stop" which is another piece of .040" with a 12x12
extending right up to the blade.
Note in the other photo that the fixed fence extends quite a ways to the
right of the blade to provide support for longer cuts. Note too that the
stop assembly extends UNDER the right end of the extended fence.
I didn't mention the design of the stop before since it is difficult without
photos. This stop is double-ended. In these photos, it is in the position
for short cuts. But, you can see that, if the stop is moved to the right for
a longer cut, one needs to reposition the NWSL clamp to the hole to the
right. That allows for cuts up to about 1-3/4" long. But what about even
longer cuts? For those cuts, the stop is turned end for end and thus hangs
off the right end of the tool base. In that position, one can make cuts up
to about 4" long. For this to work (and have the 12x12 still tight to the
fixed fence), the width of the stop must be equal to twice the distance from
the front of fixed fence to the back of the cutting surface plus the width
of the 12x12. Think about it and it will make sense. Of course, you could
also make a couple of different stops to accommodate both short and long
cuts.
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
a couple photos of the modifications back in May 2011. They are already in a
folder in the Photos area under the title "NWSL Chopper Mods". The photo
"Chopper 1" shows the .040" riser under the blade/lever assembly and the new
"cutting surface" with its styrene fence. You can see the general
arrangement of the "stop" which is another piece of .040" with a 12x12
extending right up to the blade.
Note in the other photo that the fixed fence extends quite a ways to the
right of the blade to provide support for longer cuts. Note too that the
stop assembly extends UNDER the right end of the extended fence.
I didn't mention the design of the stop before since it is difficult without
photos. This stop is double-ended. In these photos, it is in the position
for short cuts. But, you can see that, if the stop is moved to the right for
a longer cut, one needs to reposition the NWSL clamp to the hole to the
right. That allows for cuts up to about 1-3/4" long. But what about even
longer cuts? For those cuts, the stop is turned end for end and thus hangs
off the right end of the tool base. In that position, one can make cuts up
to about 4" long. For this to work (and have the 12x12 still tight to the
fixed fence), the width of the stop must be equal to twice the distance from
the front of fixed fence to the back of the cutting surface plus the width
of the 12x12. Think about it and it will make sense. Of course, you could
also make a couple of different stops to accommodate both short and long
cuts.
Jack Burgess
Newark, CA
James F. Brewer <jfbrewer@...>
Ditto
Jim Brewer
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Show quoted text
Jim Brewer
----- Original Message -----
From: timboconnor@...
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 1:23:26 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
Jack I'd like to see what you did.
Tim O'
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Burgess" < jack@... >
This modification is hard to describe without photos. If there is interest,
I'll post a couple of photos of the modification.
Jack Burgess
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
From: timboconnor@...
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 1:23:26 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Straight Cuts using a NWSL Chopper
Jack I'd like to see what you did.
Tim O'
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Burgess" < jack@... >
This modification is hard to describe without photos. If there is interest,
I'll post a couple of photos of the modification.
Jack Burgess
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
North Model Railroad Supplies <nmrs@...>
Hi Jerry,
I gather you have the moveable fence clamped to the table so you can cut
consistant lengths?
Does the blade always deflect in the same direction - ie to the left?
If yes, my experience is that if you let the blade "push" the styrene away
to the left as you slice through it, the cut will have a pronounced curve.
The blade doesn't create a kerf like a saw does, so there will always be
some deflection as the blade "makes room" for its own thickness.
And because the blade is thin and tempered, it will have some "spring" in
it, allowing it to flex and spring back - if you let it.
I hold the piece I'm cutting with my left hand hard against the stop to
absolutely minimize it moving to the left as I make the cut.
This significantly improves the straightness of the cut.
Try it yourself.
If you don't hold it tight enough, you can actually feel the piece you are
holding move to the left slightly as you make the cut - and you'll get a
curve.
The more you can stop the piece you are holding moving to the left, the
straighter the cut will be.
Just my 10c worth.
Cheers
Dave North
I gather you have the moveable fence clamped to the table so you can cut
consistant lengths?
Does the blade always deflect in the same direction - ie to the left?
If yes, my experience is that if you let the blade "push" the styrene away
to the left as you slice through it, the cut will have a pronounced curve.
The blade doesn't create a kerf like a saw does, so there will always be
some deflection as the blade "makes room" for its own thickness.
And because the blade is thin and tempered, it will have some "spring" in
it, allowing it to flex and spring back - if you let it.
I hold the piece I'm cutting with my left hand hard against the stop to
absolutely minimize it moving to the left as I make the cut.
This significantly improves the straightness of the cut.
Try it yourself.
If you don't hold it tight enough, you can actually feel the piece you are
holding move to the left slightly as you make the cut - and you'll get a
curve.
The more you can stop the piece you are holding moving to the left, the
straighter the cut will be.
Just my 10c worth.
Cheers
Dave North
ghslaw31
One other suggstion, when cutting thicker stock, cut half through and the rotate the piece 180 degrees and finish the cut.
A tool no longer be manufactured called a Calibre Cutter tried to solve the problem by having the blade move through the stock as it was cutting I have one and it does a better job then the Chopper. It was discontinued because it was so costly the market couldn't support it.
Gerry Siegel
A tool no longer be manufactured called a Calibre Cutter tried to solve the problem by having the blade move through the stock as it was cutting I have one and it does a better job then the Chopper. It was discontinued because it was so costly the market couldn't support it.
Gerry Siegel
Carl
...and if all the previous suggestions do not work, consider cutting the items to a very slightly longer length and using that other handy device--the Sander. A little more work, but virtually guaranteed to produce the desired finished product. (BTW--the Calibre Cutter was a great advance in terms of cutting an angle. There were still problems, however, with compressing some materials on the "top" side of the cut). Best Wishes--Carl
Carl G. Camann
Atlanta, Georgia
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Carl G. Camann
Atlanta, Georgia
--- In STMFC@..., "Gerry Siegel" <cgsiegel@...> wrote:
One other suggstion, when cutting thicker stock, cut half through and the rotate the piece 180 degrees and finish the cut.
A tool no longer be manufactured called a Calibre Cutter tried to solve the problem by having the blade move through the stock as it was cutting I have one and it does a better job then the Chopper. It was discontinued because it was so costly the market couldn't support it.
Gerry Siegel
Ed <nprybiged@...>
Carl
What I do is scribe a line, were the cut will be, using a Dental
probe, that I sharpen to a fine point, and scribe a line about a third
of the depth and then us the Chopper to finish. DO NOT start the
cutting line using a cutting knife or razor blade as you will have
wave on each side of the cut as these tools only displace the plastic
as the scriber removes the plastic so when finish you end up with a
good square finish. Go for it.
Ed Ursem
Bloomington, MN
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What I do is scribe a line, were the cut will be, using a Dental
probe, that I sharpen to a fine point, and scribe a line about a third
of the depth and then us the Chopper to finish. DO NOT start the
cutting line using a cutting knife or razor blade as you will have
wave on each side of the cut as these tools only displace the plastic
as the scriber removes the plastic so when finish you end up with a
good square finish. Go for it.
Ed Ursem
Bloomington, MN
--- In STMFC@..., "Carl" <cgcamann@...> wrote:
...and if all the previous suggestions do not work, consider cutting the items to a very slightly longer length and using that other handy device--the Sander. A little more work, but virtually guaranteed to produce the desired finished product. (BTW--the Calibre Cutter was a great advance in terms of cutting an angle. There were still problems, however, with compressing some materials on the "top" side of the cut). Best Wishes--Carl
Carl G. Camann
Atlanta, Georgia
--- In STMFC@..., "Gerry Siegel" <cgsiegel@> wrote:
One other suggstion, when cutting thicker stock, cut half through and the rotate the piece 180 degrees and finish the cut.
A tool no longer be manufactured called a Calibre Cutter tried to solve the problem by having the blade move through the stock as it was cutting I have one and it does a better job then the Chopper. It was discontinued because it was so costly the market couldn't support it.
Gerry Siegel
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]