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Instead of Screws for Coupler Pockets

William Mosteller
 

A while back, I bought a New Haven FL-9 and EP-5 from Mark Castigliano of New Haven Terminal/Branford Hobbies. The coupler pockets are held in by 2-56 hex head screws. Since nothing else on the model railroad uses hex head screws, and thus an additional tool is required for these models, I asked Mark about it.
Mark points out two benefits of hex head screws over traditional blade or Phillips screws:
1) You can put the hex head screw on the hex wrench and thus install it one-handed, handy if the other hand is busy, and
2) The hex wrench is less likely to mar a newly custom painted model than a screwdriver.
albyrno
 

I use philips head screws (I prefer fillister head steel screws) with a  magnetized screwdriver of correct bit for screwhead and do not worry about them falling out or marring surface(the corners of hex head screws remove paint and creates ring around bolthead) when installing or tightening this is especially useful when installing or removing screws in recessed areas without the use of a bulky screwstarter,if you use the correct size driver for screwhead they will tighten fine.A hex head can be easily overtightened and threads damaged especially in soft metal or plastics.
 The hex head screws I use for brass or other threaded holes in harder material or where I need to solder something on to.
 Alan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
soolinehistory <destorzek@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "wsmvgn" <wsm@...> wrote:

A while back, I bought a New Haven FL-9 and EP-5 from Mark Castigliano of New Haven Terminal/Branford Hobbies. The coupler pockets are held in by 2-56 hex head screws. Since nothing else on the model railroad uses hex head screws, and thus an additional tool is required for these models, I asked Mark about it.
Mark points out two benefits of hex head screws over traditional blade or Phillips screws:
1) You can put the hex head screw on the hex wrench and thus install it one-handed, handy if the other hand is busy, and
2) The hex wrench is less likely to mar a newly custom painted model than a screwdriver.
...3) The hex head looks vaguely mechanical, and is easier on the eye than a giant slotted screw head.

I happen to like socket head cap screws (available down to 0-80 size)for the same reasons, from the side it just presents a nondescript cylindrical shape. They also will stay on the end of the hex key while inserting, and have the added advantage that the hex key never touches the model, as it is retained by the socket in the screw head. The little formed hex socket wrenches can wear a ring in the paint around the hex head if care isn't taken.

Dennis
Mark Vinski
 

I like to use flat head slotted or phillips screws and counter sink the coupler box cover. Unless you turn the model upside down nothing shows.

Mark Vinski

--- In STMFC@..., "soolinehistory" <destorzek@...> wrote:



--- In STMFC@..., "wsmvgn" <wsm@> wrote:

A while back, I bought a New Haven FL-9 and EP-5 from Mark Castigliano of New Haven Terminal/Branford Hobbies. The coupler pockets are held in by 2-56 hex head screws. Since nothing else on the model railroad uses hex head screws, and thus an additional tool is required for these models, I asked Mark about it.
Mark points out two benefits of hex head screws over traditional blade or Phillips screws:
1) You can put the hex head screw on the hex wrench and thus install it one-handed, handy if the other hand is busy, and
2) The hex wrench is less likely to mar a newly custom painted model than a screwdriver.
...3) The hex head looks vaguely mechanical, and is easier on the eye than a giant slotted screw head.

I happen to like socket head cap screws (available down to 0-80 size)for the same reasons, from the side it just presents a nondescript cylindrical shape. They also will stay on the end of the hex key while inserting, and have the added advantage that the hex key never touches the model, as it is retained by the socket in the screw head. The little formed hex socket wrenches can wear a ring in the paint around the hex head if care isn't taken.

Dennis
Malcolm H. Houck
 

Fri Jun 21, 2013 9:00 am (PDT) . Posted by:
_"Alan Kilby" albyrno _ (mailto:albyrn
o@...?subject=Re:%20Instead%20of%20Screws%20for%20Coupler%20Pockets)


I use philips head screws (I prefer fillister head steel screws) with a
magnetized screwdriver of correct bit for screwhead and do not worry about
them falling out or marring surface(the corners of hex head screws remove
paint and creates ring around bolthead) when installing or tightening this is
especially useful when installing or removing screws in recessed areas
without the use of a bulky screwstarter,I use philips head screws (I prefer
fillister head steel screws) with a magnetized screwdriver of correct bit for
screwhead and do not worry about them falling out or m
The hex head screws I use for brass or other threaded holes in harder
material or where I need to solder something on to.
Alan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I keep a small vial of automotive valve grinding compound on my
bench. It's a very finely ground abrasive in a liquid medium. For
even slotted screws I dip the screwdriver blade into the compound
and place the screw on the blade. The screw will not fall away and
neither will the blade slip and mar paint. If the residue of the valve
compound needs to be removed, I wash it away with diluted alcohol.
Even if the screw is non-ferrous, or if the screwdriver blade is not
magnetized, this works every time.

Mal Houck
William Mosteller
 

Well, here's a lesson for me. Leave out a couple words and completely mystify the readers. What I was trying to describe is Allen head screws driven in with Allen wrenches. The marring of the carbody comes when the sharp blade of the screwdriver accidentally contacts the custom painted carbody. That's less likely because the Allen wrench isn't sharp and is inside the Allen screw head. As one poster suggests, the head of the Allen screw doesn't sit flush, and in fact is fairly gross. But on the underside of a coupler box that probably doesn't matter, but it would limit other uses of such screws.

Thanks.
Bill Mosteller
Great Decals!

--- In STMFC@..., "wsmvgn" <wsm@...> wrote:

A while back, I bought a New Haven FL-9 and EP-5 from Mark Castigliano of New Haven Terminal/Branford Hobbies. The coupler pockets are held in by 2-56 hex head screws. Since nothing else on the model railroad uses hex head screws, and thus an additional tool is required for these models, I asked Mark about it.
Mark points out two benefits of hex head screws over traditional blade or Phillips screws:
1) You can put the hex head screw on the hex wrench and thus install it one-handed, handy if the other hand is busy, and
2) The hex wrench is less likely to mar a newly custom painted model than a screwdriver.
eddie_walters <eddie_walters@...>
 

Wouldn't button head screws solve the "gross appearance" problem? Allen sockets, but lower profile than fillister head slotted/Phillips screws.

--- In STMFC@..., "wsmvgn" <wsm@...> wrote:

Well, here's a lesson for me. Leave out a couple words and completely mystify the readers. What I was trying to describe is Allen head screws driven in with Allen wrenches. The marring of the carbody comes when the sharp blade of the screwdriver accidentally contacts the custom painted carbody. That's less likely because the Allen wrench isn't sharp and is inside the Allen screw head. As one poster suggests, the head of the Allen screw doesn't sit flush, and in fact is fairly gross. But on the underside of a coupler box that probably doesn't matter, but it would limit other uses of such screws.

Thanks.
Bill Mosteller
Great Decals!
albyrno
 

I forgot about button head screws.Ace has them in small metric and sae sizes that use .050 allen wrench,I use 00-80 buttonheads for attaching frame sides to spacers and other areas where you need low profile screwhead.
I will have to get some valve lapping compound and try it on non-magnetic screws,I could use it for lapping in loco drive gears also it would work quicker than the toothpaste with baking soda that I use now.
Alan

--- In STMFC@..., "eddie_walters" <eddie_walters@...> wrote:

Wouldn't button head screws solve the "gross appearance" problem? Allen sockets, but lower profile than fillister head slotted/Phillips screws.

--- In STMFC@..., "wsmvgn" <wsm@> wrote:

Well, here's a lesson for me. Leave out a couple words and completely mystify the readers. What I was trying to describe is Allen head screws driven in with Allen wrenches. The marring of the carbody comes when the sharp blade of the screwdriver accidentally contacts the custom painted carbody. That's less likely because the Allen wrench isn't sharp and is inside the Allen screw head. As one poster suggests, the head of the Allen screw doesn't sit flush, and in fact is fairly gross. But on the underside of a coupler box that probably doesn't matter, but it would limit other uses of such screws.

Thanks.
Bill Mosteller
Great Decals!

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