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Stripping Testors enamel from Sylvan resin

Dean Payne
 

I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the application was too thick.  How do I strip it and start over, without damaging the resin?  What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin Sylvan is using?  I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but don't have ELO or Chameleon.  
Benjamin Hom
 

Dean Payne asked:
"I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the application was too thick.  How do I strip it and start over, without damaging the resin?  What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin Sylvan is using?  I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but don't have ELO or Chameleon."
 
This is something I need to work out as well, as I've got some resin that needs rebuilding.  I do know from other members' experience that brake fluid is definitely out!  It will soften the model along with the paint.
 
Ben Hom
Tom Madden
 

Cured urethane resin swells when immersed in alcohol, but I've successfully stripped Sunshine models with Scalecoat stripper - including one Santa Fe Rr-5/9 reefer three times! (The Accupaint wasn't sticking to the model and lifted when masked with drafting tape. That was a long time ago.)
 
Tom Madden


________________________________
From: Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...>
To: "STMFC@..." <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sunday, September 1, 2013 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Stripping Testors enamel from Sylvan resin

 

Dean Payne asked:
"I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the application was too thick.  How do I strip it and start over, without damaging the resin?  What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin Sylvan is using?  I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but don't have ELO or Chameleon."
 
This is something I need to work out as well, as I've got some resin that needs rebuilding.  I do know from other members' experience that brake fluid is definitely out!  It will soften the model along with the paint.
 
Ben Hom  






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
John
 

&nbsp;Gize, &nbsp; I haven&#39;t tried it on resin yet, but ScaleCoat wash-away paint stripper works very well on every type of plastic I&#39;ve tried it on.&nbsp; It is virtually identical to Chameleon, with a isopropyl alcohol base and butyl cellosolve (a/k/a 2-butoxyethanol) as&nbsp;the active ingredient. &nbsp; You can make your own, but butyl cellosolve costs about $50 per gallon (Sherwin Williams paint stores carry it, but in the back with the professional supplies).&nbsp; The advantage is, one gallon of butyl cellosolve will make enough paint remover for everyone in a large club!&nbsp; (Plus it is the active ingredient in MicroSol and Champ decal set, but that&#39;s a different story). &nbsp; If you take a quart bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol (make sure it is the 91% version, 70% will not work!), remove about 2 oz from the bottle and replace with 2 oz of butyl cellosolve, you will end&nbsp; up with about the same chemical mix as the commercial products.&nbsp; You do have the advantage of being able to modifying the blend to increase or decrease the butyl cellosolve concentration in the mix to adjust its aggressiveness.&nbsp; As always, try it on some scrap pieces first! &nbsp; -- John --- In stmfc@..., &lt;b.hom@...&gt; wrote: Dean Payne asked:
&quot;I know we&#39;ve gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the application was too thick. &nbsp;How do I strip it and start over, without damaging the resin? &nbsp;What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin Sylvan is using? &nbsp;I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but don&#39;t have ELO or Chameleon.&quot;
&nbsp;
This is something I need to work out as well, as I&#39;ve got some resin that needs&nbsp;rebuilding.&nbsp; I do know from other members&#39;&nbsp;experience that brake fluid is definitely out!&nbsp; It will&nbsp;soften the model along with the paint.
&nbsp;
Ben Hom&nbsp;&nbsp;

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Greg Martin
 

Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA's Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 9/1/2013 8:44:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
1payne1@... writes:




I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific
advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the
application was too thick. How do I strip it and start over, without damaging
the resin? What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin
Sylvan is using? I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but
don't have ELO or Chameleon.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Charlie Duckworth
 

&nbsp;I can not recommend using Scalecoat&#39;s stripper on resin casting. &nbsp;I did an IC boxcar by F&amp;C &nbsp;few months ago and several of the details came off the casting, making the model useless. &nbsp;This was their plastic stripper which I would think would be milder than what is used to strip brass. Charllie Duckworth --- In stmfc@..., &lt;tgregmrtn@...&gt; wrote: Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA&#39;s Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 9/1/2013 8:44:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
1payne1@... writes:




I know we&#39;ve gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific
advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the
application was too thick. How do I strip it and start over, without damaging
the resin? What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin
Sylvan is using? I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but
don&#39;t have ELO or Chameleon.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Greg Martin
 

Oops, I intended to write I HAVE NOT TRIED IT ON RESIN....

Sorry for the confusion. Test it on resin before you immerse it. I
don'ts mean to mislead anyone.

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 9/1/2013 11:40:52 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
omahaduck@... writes:




I can not recommend using Scalecoat's stripper on resin casting. I did an
IC boxcar by F&C few months ago and several of the details came off the
casting, making the model useless. This was their plastic stripper which I
would think would be milder than what is used to strip brass. Charllie
Duckworth --- In _stmfc@... (mailto:stmfc@...) ,
<tgregmrtn@...> wrote: Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA's Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated
cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to
strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow
and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 9/1/2013 8:44:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
1payne1@... writes:




I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific
advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the
application was too thick. How do I strip it and start over, without
damaging
the resin? What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin
Sylvan is using? I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!),
but
don't have ELO or Chameleon.












[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
NHJJ4@...
 

As Greg has stated It will work well BUT !
I have used it on a Scale coat BAKED & painted Brass Electric. Pulled it
right off in a day.

BUT. It wont touch Rapido Paint on there new FP-9 unit. Had a shell
soaking 1 month and not a thing done to it. Washed right off with no bugs to
the shell.

Jim Evans

In a message dated 9/1/2013 11:04:43 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tgregmrtn@... writes:




Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA's Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated
cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to
strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow
and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 9/1/2013 8:44:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
_1payne1@... (mailto:1payne1@...) writes:

I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific
advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the
application was too thick. How do I strip it and start over, without
damaging
the resin? What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin
Sylvan is using? I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!),
but
don't have ELO or Chameleon.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Charles Hladik
 

Maybe one of us should ask Clare at Sylvan, duh.
Chuck Hladik

In a message dated 9/1/2013 8:46:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
NHJJ4@... writes:




As Greg has stated It will work well BUT !
I have used it on a Scale coat BAKED & painted Brass Electric. Pulled it
right off in a day.

BUT. It wont touch Rapido Paint on there new FP-9 unit. Had a shell
soaking 1 month and not a thing done to it. Washed right off with no bugs
to
the shell.

Jim Evans


In a message dated 9/1/2013 11:04:43 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
_tgregmrtn@... (mailto:tgregmrtn@...) writes:

Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA's Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated
cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to
strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow
and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 9/1/2013 8:44:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
__1payne1@... (mailto:_1payne1@...) _
(mailto:_1payne1@... (mailto:1payne1@...) ) writes:

I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific
advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the
application was too thick. How do I strip it and start over, without
damaging
the resin? What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin
Sylvan is using? I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!),
but
don't have ELO or Chameleon.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam@...>
 

A strong caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) solution will work very
efficiently on enamels. It is safe on many/most resins and plastics, but
ensure that the solution is cool before you dunk the model as mixing the
soda and water gives off a lot of heat.

Not knowing which resin Sylvan are using I would suggest dunking a scrap
section in the solution before risking the whole model.

Aidrian

Beer has no effect on concrete, but unless the concrete is specially
treated the taste of the beer could be affected. (Military Engineering Vol
XIV, Concrete, WO Code No 8626, 1952.)
Sam Reynolds
 

I realize that the cars I tested the Dollar Store product on aren't representative of "Steam Era Freight Cars", but I gave LA's Totally AWESOME a try on a Robins Rails 60' auto parts boxcar and a Walthers 2-bay PS-3 hopper.  I had made numerous attempts to strip the paint from these cars using other products, but to no avail.  After letting the cars soak in LA's Totally AWESOME for 4 days the paint came off of the cars with no problem at all.  Not sure yet if less time would have yielded the same result.  16 PS-3 hoppers are now awaiting their time in the soak tank in order to be painted and decaled for the L&N.


Sam Reynolds



--- In stmfc@..., <tgregmrtn@...> wrote:

Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA's Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 9/1/2013 8:44:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
1payne1@... writes:




I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific
advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the
application was too thick. How do I strip it and start over, without damaging
the resin? What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin
Sylvan is using? I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but
don't have ELO or Chameleon.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tim O'Connor
 

Greg

I'd never heard of this store before, but I just found out there's
one just a couple miles from here. I think I'll check this stuff out.

The most unstrippable models so far in my experience were some of the
old Front Range stuff...

Tim O'

At 9/5/2013 08:33 PM Thursday, you wrote:


I realize that the cars I tested the Dollar Store product on aren't representative of "Steam Era Freight Cars", but I gave LA's Totally AWESOME a try on a Robins Rails 60' auto parts boxcar and a Walthers 2-bay PS-3 hopper. I had made numerous attempts to strip the paint from these cars using other products, but to no avail. After letting the cars soak in LA's Totally AWESOME for 4 days the paint came off of the cars with no problem at all. Not sure yet if less time would have yielded the same result. 16 PS-3 hoppers are now awaiting their time in the soak tank in order to be painted and decaled for the L&N.


Sam Reynolds


--- In stmfc@..., <tgregmrtn@...> wrote:

Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA's Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin
Greg Martin
 

Sam
 
Less time would have work as well, I leave mine overnight. But as my good friend Jim Evans had  mentioned it doesn't work on all paints but we have only found one company that we can say that about.
 
I believe it is worth the buck to experiment.  Craig Zeni actually gave me the idea.
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 9/5/2013 5:33:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, monon@... writes:

 

I realize that the cars I tested the Dollar Store product on aren't representative of "Steam Era Freight Cars", but I gave LA's Totally AWESOME a try on a Robins Rails 60' auto parts boxcar and a Walthers 2-bay PS-3 hopper.  I had made numerous attempts to strip the paint from these cars using other products, but to no avail.  After letting the cars soak in LA's Totally AWESOME for 4 days the paint came off of the cars with no problem at all.  Not sure yet if less time would have yielded the same result.  16 PS-3 hoppers are now awaiting their time in the soak tank in order to be painted and decaled for the L&N.


Sam Reynolds



 
Greg Martin
 

Tim,
 
I thought the worst stuff I have ever tried to get to strip was ATLAS locomotive paints and it did the trick, well worth the buck to experiment with.
 
If you recall Jim and I had mentioned his NH ACLO Model EP  4 or 5 or whatever that double ended ALCO looking nose units was had yellowed over time with the FUTURE as a clear finish coat. Well we took that beast and pit in this thinking that it might only remove the FUTURE or the FUTURE and the Decals and leave the SCALE COAT 1 (which he baked on in my mothers kitchen man was she mad). Well to our surprise it striped it to bare brass... I just keep throwing things in even the dirty used solution and it just keeps stripping. I had a Devil of a time stripping a couple Train Miniature X29's now that was some tough paint it dais take a couple day to get it off.
 
I have a couple of Front Range cars that are painted in the garage I will have to strip this weekend as an experiment, what the heck I am still working on a bucks worth of the stuff.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 9/5/2013 8:00:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, timboconnor@... writes:
 
Greg

I'd never heard of this store before, but I just found out there's one just a couple miles from here. I think I'll check this stuff out.

The most un strippable models so far in my experience were some of the old Front Range stuff...

Tim O'

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