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SP C-30-1 Caboose Handrails Colour
North Model Railroad Supplies <nmrs@...>
I'm adding the wire bits to a Walthers SP C-30-1 caboose and was wondering
what color the handrails, grab irons etc were in 1953? If they were body color, does anyone have a match for the color Walthers painted these cars? Thanks in advance for any help. Cheers Dave North |
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Charles Morrill
The curved handrails on the car side and the outside vertical rail on the platform handrail was painted white. All other grab irons and railing was body color.
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Charlie -----Original Message-----
From: North Model Railroad Supplies Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 12:18 AM To: STMFC@... Subject: [STMFC] SP C-30-1 Caboose Handrails Colour I'm adding the wire bits to a Walthers SP C-30-1 caboose and was wondering what color the handrails, grab irons etc were in 1953? If they were body color, does anyone have a match for the color Walthers painted these cars? Thanks in advance for any help. Cheers Dave North ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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North Model Railroad Supplies <nmrs@...>
Hi Charlie, Thanks very much for your help. Cheers Dave North
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Dave,
The following may help you to decide - and hopefully will make the process a lot easier to do and at the same time end up with freight cars you like more. I have a "standard practice" that includes touching all of the handrails, grabs, corner brackets, drop steps, brake wheels, couplers, cut levers, etc., etc., etc. with a brush with "whatever shade of 'Tuscan' I happen to mix up that day". I don't try to 'cover' them ... just a dab/stroke/run the brush over it here and there. I normally start with about 4 to 1 Tuscan to some shade of Mineral Red/any shade of burnt umber/burnt sienna/ red umber etc. ... but I don't pay a lot of attention to the number of drops of each color and let whatever I can reach easiest be as much my method as anything else. And I will frequently add a couple of drops of grey or black or white or a mustardy yellow (CNW or reefer yellow). I do not have a 'formula' that I use every time ... other than starting with some shade of "tuscan". But the key point is that I do -not- want it to match the body color. I want it to be "a few shades different". When you do this - the result is a handrail/grab that looks like the right color ... but it "stands out from the body". Background - most of the time when you look at a real freight car there is a highlight+shadow effect going on (yes, even when it isn't in full sun ... *G*). The details tend to be more noticeable than any factory paint car -model- that you see on any layout any where. To understand what I mean go fish out any unweathered Kadee box car you have and hold it up next to your computer monitor that is on a color picture of a real 'tuscan' box car. Unless you use extremely high quantities of light on your layout you just don't get those shadows. And even if the shadow is there ... the size of the grabs/handrails/etc. are so small that our eyes don't pick them up. So my "just a couple of shades off of the body" ... simulates the "shadows" - and my goal of having the detail part look correct - but "pop out" without being too big a difference is achieved. When trying to add some 'rust' to detail colors other than freight car red ... I like to thin the paint out until it flows (runs) into the corners ... - Jim Betz P.S. I like to go back after doing the detail weathering and shoot what I refer to as "blending coats" of some shade of grimy black, mud, etc. I have found that since I started doing the brush detail weathering (which includes washes, etc.) that I use a LOT less paint during this blending process. |
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