3M contact adhesive between 2 release layers 467MP


ed_mines
 

Anyone else try this (to attach roof walks to plastic models)? I used something like at work 30 years ago.

 

It has a real acrid odor and may be causing me to itch; I wonder if it ever goes away.

 

Ed Mines


O Fenton Wells
 


Ed, to attach metal roofwalks to resin or plastic car roofs and other metal to resin and plastic points I use a combination of contact cement and lacquer thinner.  It was a tip I saw in a magazine years ago and it works.  I put a dab of contact cement on a piece of wax paper then use an old paint brush dipped in the thinner to thin the contact cement and paint it on the roof walk supports and the bottom of the roof walk.  Then set aside for a while to let both pieces dry.  Once they dry put them together but be careful as they will not move once set.
The only down side I see with this is that sometimes I get a little sloppy on the underside of the roof walk.  I doesn't show too bad after it's painted but I'll probably never win the NMRA best of show award.  I have done about 30 freight cars and diesel grills and in 25 years and 7 moves they are still attached.
Fenton Wells


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 3:46 PM, <ed_mines@...> wrote:
 

Anyone else try this (to attach roof walks to plastic models)? I used something like at work 30 years ago.

 

It has a real acrid odor and may be causing me to itch; I wonder if it ever goes away.

 

Ed Mines




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


O Fenton Wells
 

PS Ed, while it doesn't smell too bad you don't want to breath many lacquer fumes either!
Fenton Wells


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 3:56 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:

Ed, to attach metal roofwalks to resin or plastic car roofs and other metal to resin and plastic points I use a combination of contact cement and lacquer thinner.  It was a tip I saw in a magazine years ago and it works.  I put a dab of contact cement on a piece of wax paper then use an old paint brush dipped in the thinner to thin the contact cement and paint it on the roof walk supports and the bottom of the roof walk.  Then set aside for a while to let both pieces dry.  Once they dry put them together but be careful as they will not move once set.
The only down side I see with this is that sometimes I get a little sloppy on the underside of the roof walk.  I doesn't show too bad after it's painted but I'll probably never win the NMRA best of show award.  I have done about 30 freight cars and diesel grills and in 25 years and 7 moves they are still attached.
Fenton Wells


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 3:46 PM, <ed_mines@...> wrote:
 

Anyone else try this (to attach roof walks to plastic models)? I used something like at work 30 years ago.

 

It has a real acrid odor and may be causing me to itch; I wonder if it ever goes away.

 

Ed Mines




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...



--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


mrprksr <mrprksr@...>
 

I've had good results using the same adhesive caulk I use to lay flex track.....use a tooth pick to smooth a small amount on each riser and weigh down roof walk till morning....this method gives you a little time to move roof walk around and get it straight and centered....been doing this for about ten years with no problems.....Larry Mennie


From: O Fenton Wells
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] 3M contact adhesive between 2 release layers 467MP

 
PS Ed, while it doesn't smell too bad you don't want to breath many lacquer fumes either!
Fenton Wells


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 3:56 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:

Ed, to attach metal roofwalks to resin or plastic car roofs and other metal to resin and plastic points I use a combination of contact cement and lacquer thinner.  It was a tip I saw in a magazine years ago and it works.  I put a dab of contact cement on a piece of wax paper then use an old paint brush dipped in the thinner to thin the contact cement and paint it on the roof walk supports and the bottom of the roof walk.  Then set aside for a while to let both pieces dry.  Once they dry put them together but be careful as they will not move once set.
The only down side I see with this is that sometimes I get a little sloppy on the underside of the roof walk.  I doesn't show too bad after it's painted but I'll probably never win the NMRA best of show award.  I have done about 30 freight cars and diesel grills and in 25 years and 7 moves they are still attached.
Fenton Wells


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 3:46 PM, <ed_mines@...> wrote:
 
Anyone else try this (to attach roof walks to plastic models)? I used something like at work 30 years ago.
 
It has a real acrid odor and may be causing me to itch; I wonder if it ever goes away.
 
Ed Mines



--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...



--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...



Tony Thompson
 

Ed Mines wrote:

 
Anyone else try this (to attach roof walks to plastic models)? I used something like at work 30 years ago.

      Ed, as I have pointed out several times, there is a SUPERIOR adhesive for all kinds of dissimilar materials, and etched metal running boards in particular: canopy cement. I wrote a blog post about it last spring, if you're interested, and it is at this link:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Anspach Denny <danspachmd@...>
 

About 15 years years ago, I began using Barge Cement routinely for one step mounting of running boards- metal, plastic, and wood. A tiny amount does it; the boards almost immediately are tacked-down, the setting time allows manipulation and/or the application of "contact" methods, and…. the boards stay. These are few downsides.  It is right on my mind as I speak inasmuch as I just negotiated with Barge Cement a neat but ornery retrofit of a Kadee running board on a model not designed for it.

For a long time, Barge Cement has for me been one of the most important and useful glues in my model adhesive armamentarium.

Denny

 
Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento

Please make note of my new eMail address.


rob.mclear3@...
 

Thanks to Tony for this.   I have recently been convinced by his many praises of this glue to give it a try.   I will not go back to anything else for roofwalk  attachment.   For metal roofwalks this stuff is amazing.   Looks like white glue when you get it out of the bottle but sticks like nothing else.   I use a toothpick to put small amounts on the roofwalk supports and then just lay the roofwalk on.  Sticks relatively fast, certainly faster than white glue, and dries clear.   Can't beat this stuff.  Thanks Tony for the heads up, and to other members give it a try I am sure you won't be disappointed I wasn't.


Rob McLear

Australia.



---In STMFC@..., <tony@...> wrote:

Ed Mines wrote:

 
Anyone else try this (to attach roof walks to plastic models)? I used something like at work 30 years ago.

      Ed, as I have pointed out several times, there is a SUPERIOR adhesive for all kinds of dissimilar materials, and etched metal running boards in particular: canopy cement. I wrote a blog post about it last spring, if you're interested, and it is at this link:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





william darnaby
 

I will second what the Doctor said and point out that his most valuable tip for using Barge Cement is to drill a .020 hole in the center of the cap.  This facilitates the application of small amounts and the straight pin used to plug the hole also makes a useful applicator.

 

Bill Darnaby (at a loss for big words like armamentarium)

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Anspach Denny
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:10 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: 3M contact adhesive between 2 release layers 467MP

 



About 15 years years ago, I began using Barge Cement routinely for one step mounting of running boards- metal, plastic, and wood. A tiny amount does it; the boards almost immediately are tacked-down, the setting time allows manipulation and/or the application of "contact" methods, and…. the boards stay. These are few downsides.  It is right on my mind as I speak inasmuch as I just negotiated with Barge Cement a neat but ornery retrofit of a Kadee running board on a model not designed for it.

 

For a long time, Barge Cement has for me been one of the most important and useful glues in my model adhesive armamentarium.

 

Denny

 

 

Denny S. Anspach MD

Sacramento

 

Please make note of my new eMail address.

 







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