Solvaset


Schuyler Larrabee
 

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ’s Decal-set. But Solvaset’s always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into scribing or whatever.

 

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that.  I’ll buy a new bottle soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more or less) “stuff” accumulated in it.  Standing the bottle on the cap overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn’t seem to make it dissolve.  Any thoughts about this:

 

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the scribing on the model.  VERY!

 

 

Schuyler


Jack Burgess
 

I let the Solvaset do the best it can and then let the decals dry. The following day I'll use an new X-acto blade and carefully slice through the decal along the scribe marks and then apply another application of Solvaset. That has always worked well...

 

Jack Burgess

 

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ’s Decal-set. But Solvaset’s always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into scribing or whatever.

 

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that.  I’ll buy a new bottle soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more or less) “stuff” accumulated in it.  Standing the bottle on the cap overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn’t seem to make it dissolve.  Any thoughts about this:

 

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the scribing on the model.  VERY!

 

 

Schuyler

__


william darnaby
 

This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.



Bill Darnaby



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset








I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.



This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap
overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to
make it dissolve. Any thoughts about this:



I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!





Schuyler










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ed_mines
 

I'm more afraid that Solvaset will eat the newer thin film decals.


Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...>
 

It will, but it's remarkable what it won't touch.

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 1/20/2014 4:27 PM, ed_mines@... wrote:

 

I'm more afraid that Solvaset will eat the newer thin film decals.

No virus found in this message.
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Schuyler Larrabee
 

Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset





This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap
overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to
make it dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com


Charles Peck
 

If you don't wish to try slitting the film, you could separate a small portion of new Solvaset and dilute it 50/50 with
the old weaker Solvaset and try that mixture. If not quite right, add another portion of new until you get a strength
that works. 
Chuck Peck


On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Schuyler Larrabee <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:
 

Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J

Schuyler

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap
overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to
make it dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





frograbbit602
 

After setting decal with Champ's Decal Set in past years and Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol today I use Solvaset as the final coat to set the decal.  I find with Solvaset you go over the decal only once and let it dry as if you get it too wet with Solvaset the decal can be destroyed.  And, on scribed surface I agree with Jack Burgess that using a xacto blade or a single edge razor blade to cut thru the decal and recoating with the Solvaset works best.  If you decide to cut thru the decal with either choose a new blade as an older one due to losing sharpness could tear rather than cut the decal.
Lester Breuer


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Chuck, are you saying that Solvaset weakens with age? If so, that is likely
the issue I'm having as I've had this bottle for a couple of decades . . .



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Charles Peck
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:46 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset





If you don't wish to try slitting the film, you could separate a small
portion of new Solvaset and dilute it 50/50 with

the old weaker Solvaset and try that mixture. If not quite right, add
another portion of new until you get a strength

that works.

Chuck Peck

On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Schuyler Larrabee
<schuyler.larrabee@verizon.net> wrote:



Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J

Schuyler

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap
overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to
make it dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com


william darnaby
 

If it is...maybe...I can report that I had a miserable time getting it to
settle and was not entirely successful as those with sharp eyes would have
noticed on my model at Cocoa Beach. I had to do what Jack recommended and
slice the decal in the grooves, work it with full strength Solvaset and even
press it down with a brush. It was not pleasant.

Bill Darnaby

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 3:40 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset





This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap overnight
and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to make it
dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com











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Schuyler Larrabee
 

Well, IF it was that kit, that would be what I had to do. I have a dental
pick and have had to press down along the grooves, and the edge of the
herald (yeah, herald) seemed to want to rise up. I was reluctant to do the
razor blade slicing, which I've done often enough before, but it appears
that is the only answer for this thing.



That's all if it IS that kit. Might be.



Jim Singer had an explanation of why those decals were like that, which I
don't recall clearly so I won't repeat it here. Want to avoid
misinformation.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 5:15 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset





If it is...maybe...I can report that I had a miserable time getting it to
settle and was not entirely successful as those with sharp eyes would have
noticed on my model at Cocoa Beach. I had to do what Jack recommended and
slice the decal in the grooves, work it with full strength Solvaset and even
press it down with a brush. It was not pleasant.

Bill Darnaby

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 3:40 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J

Schuyler

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap overnight
and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to make it
dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com





------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links

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protection is active.
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Schuyler Larrabee
 

I've been >bathing< the decal in question with Solvaset for a few days, and
it resists most everything. I'm going to let things dry out and then do one
more application and settle for what I get then.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
frograbbit602@yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 5:10 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] RE: Solvaset





After setting decal with Champ's Decal Set in past years and Microscale
Micro Set and Micro Sol today I use Solvaset as the final coat to set the
decal. I find with Solvaset you go over the decal only once and let it dry
as if you get it too wet with Solvaset the decal can be destroyed. And, on
scribed surface I agree with Jack Burgess that using a xacto blade or a
single edge razor blade to cut thru the decal and recoating with the
Solvaset works best. If you decide to cut thru the decal with either choose
a new blade as an older one due to losing sharpness could tear rather than
cut the decal.

Lester Breuer


Charles Peck
 

Yes, there are volatiles in Solvaset that evaporate, most active first, leaving a weaker solution with age. 
Chuck Peck


On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 5:12 PM, Schuyler Larrabee <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:
 

Chuck, are you saying that Solvaset weakens with age? If so, that is likely
the issue I'm having as I've had this bottle for a couple of decades . . .



Schuyler

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Charles Peck
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:46 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset


If you don't wish to try slitting the film, you could separate a small
portion of new Solvaset and dilute it 50/50 with

the old weaker Solvaset and try that mixture. If not quite right, add
another portion of new until you get a strength

that works.

Chuck Peck

On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Schuyler Larrabee
<schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:

Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J

Schuyler

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap
overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to
make it dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Jack Burgess
 

<I've been >bathing< the decal in question with Solvaset for a few days,

<and it resists most everything.  I'm going to let things dry out and

<then do one more application and settle for what I get then.

<

<

<

<Schuyler

If you are applying Solvaset and then letting the decal dry for a day and adding another application of Solvaset, I don't think that is going to work. To conform to rivets, etc., the decal needs to actually expand a little (which I think is the main purpose of the decal solvent/solution) and then contract as it dries. But if the decal film is "thick" or the groves in the siding are too wide, it won't work. But if you let the decal dry and then cut through the decal film and then add another coat of Solvaset, the decal should be able to conform to the groves since it doesn't need to expand...

Jack Burgess


Dennis Storzek
 

IF it's last years shake 'n take car, the grooves are some of the finest in HO scale, .005" wide and .0025" deep... hardly the Grand Canyon. And, unlike dealing with the old Northeastern scribed wood of yesteryear, where the grooves were so deep that the cut decal is lost in the shadow, these grooves are shallow enough that the background carside color will show through the slits.

Sounds like the decals came from the Bulletproof Decal Co.

Dennis Storzek


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Ah, then the solution (no puns intended) is likely to get a new bottle . . .

Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Charles Peck
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 5:58 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset





Yes, there are volatiles in Solvaset that evaporate, most active first,
leaving a weaker solution with age.

Chuck Peck

On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 5:12 PM, Schuyler Larrabee
<schuyler.larrabee@verizon.net> wrote:



Chuck, are you saying that Solvaset weakens with age? If so, that is likely
the issue I'm having as I've had this bottle for a couple of decades . . .



Schuyler

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of

Charles Peck
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:46 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset



If you don't wish to try slitting the film, you could separate a small
portion of new Solvaset and dilute it 50/50 with

the old weaker Solvaset and try that mixture. If not quite right, add
another portion of new until you get a strength

that works.

Chuck Peck

On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Schuyler Larrabee
<schuyler.larrabee@verizon.net> wrote:

Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J

Schuyler

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap
overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to
make it dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com


Bruce Smith
 

I will second Chuck's comment.  When I finally ordered a new bottle, it was WAAAAY more aggressive.  I had to water it down a bit to use !  So Schuyler, when you get that new bottle, exercise caution using it.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...] on behalf of Charles Peck [lnnrr152@...]
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:58 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset



Yes, there are volatiles in Solvaset that evaporate, most active first, leaving a weaker solution with age. 
Chuck Peck


John Sykes III
 

Solvaset changed their formulation some time back.  It use to be a solution of Butyl Cellosolve in water (2-botoxy ethanol) the same as MicroSol and Champ Decal Set (different concentrations, same chemical), but changed to a methoxy-2-propanol/methoxy-1-propanol mixture (I think the mixture is a result of the chemical process to make that solvent).  There may be a touch of isopropyl alcohol in all of these products to act as a wetting agent, but I am not sure of that.


I do not know how the new Solvaset compares to the old Solvaset or the Champ (which use to be comparable to the old Solvaset), but they are all definitely stronger than the MicroSol.


-- John


Lee Thwaits
 

Since I started using Microscale Micro sol & Micro set I have had no problem with decals settling into grooves nor leaving blush under large heralds. I recently bought a bottle of Solvaset to try after several years of not using it and was very dissatisfied with the results and ending up scrapping the decals. These are not Champ decals.

Lee Thwaits


John H <sprinthag@...>
 

Who printed the decals and on whose paper? Film really as there are thinner films and thicker films. Then the actual printed images may be thick or thin.

For years I've heard that Walther's declas were rpinted on ratehr thick paper and that was likely true as they go way back in time when thin film wasn't. That said Walther's doesn't print decals nowadays but they sell Walther's paper. From what I have seen it appears about the same thickness as Microscale or Bare Metal Foil (my favorite) paper. Tango Papa still has the thinnest film from what I understand albeit I haven't actually used it.

Alps printed decals also get a bad rap for being too thick in the ink department. That may be true depending on how the decal was printed. Properly printed Alps decals using spot colors may be no thinner than screen printed albeit there are variables. Also it is possible to trade off opaqueness for thinness. I have seen many Microscale decal stripes that do a poor job of hiding the color split that is often below the decal and I have printed replacements with my Alps printers that covered well and were no more difficult to apply. So much depends on the what the color is made of. Some are paints and then the are dyes. Alps uses thermo wax ribbons. They all have different characteristics and different degrees of opaqueness. With an Alps one can apply a layer of white undercoat that really increases opaqueness. If the decal will be applied over a solid color background I suggest one layer of white. If it will be covering two or more colors than two white layers will be needed. And, if one color is a light shade and the other a dark shade it is possible three layer may be needed to totally hide the color variation. But each layer makes for a stiffer decal. I have seldom used more than two white layers and have had good results.

For riveted surfaces it is generally necessary to "blot" the decals once they have been positioned with soft tissue, either facial tissue or the stuff used for the other end. And don't be shy with the blotting, the idea is to push the decal down around the rivets. DO NOT APPLY ANY SETTING SOLUTION WHEN DOING THIS! After the decal is well blotted, then apply the solution. I do not recommend using the "set the decal in a pool of solution" method of decaling on rivets. In fact I never use that method at all having very poor luck with it. That said a lot of people use it very successfully so play with it.

John Hagen

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, <destorzek@...> wrote:

IF it's last years shake 'n take car, the grooves are some of the finest in HO scale, .005" wide and .0025" deep... hardly the Grand Canyon. And, unlike dealing with the old Northeastern scribed wood of yesteryear, where the grooves were so deep that the cut decal is lost in the shadow, these grooves are shallow enough that the background carside color will show through the slits.

Sounds like the decals came from the Bulletproof Decal Co.

Dennis Storzek