Krylon clear flat v. Red Caboose silver paint


Jeffrey White
 

I've been using Krylon clear flat finish in lieu of Testors Dull Coat for awhile now with no problems. Saturday I prayed a Red Caboose 10,000 gallon tank car kit with it as part of the weathering process.

The Krylon reacted with the silver paint and "crinkled" it. The black paint on the bottom of the tank and the frame along with the "Rustall" I used on parts of the frame was fine.

I can't explain it, I had not had that trouble before, Just a heads up to anyone looking to save a few bucks by using the Krylon.

Jeff White
Alma, IL


Schuyler Larrabee
 

I will NEVER use Krylon on a model again.

 

Decades ago, I superdetailed an ABBA set of Athearn F7 units that I converted into the ERIE’s F5, 710 ABCD.  I really pulled out all the stops and they were really impressive, Protopowered, all four units and they could pull over 60 cars on the North Shore layout.  They have, of course, now been superseded by Genesis and other newer units.  I even got a large blue box that had foam in it, and they could be carried around in that box, just like a brass set.

 

I painted them with Floquil, and used Accucals and Accupaint for the yellow nose.  Lots of drying time between the two, and there wasn’t any reaction between the two paints or the decals and the Floquil black.  I overcoated them with Krylon, on the recommendation of a fellow club member.

 

So after about two years or so, one day I took them out of the box and they felt a little “sticky.”  And then I noticed the fingerprints in the decals.  And the wrinkles in the stripes.  And then the fellow club member said “Oh, yeah, I’ve seen something like that on some of my models . . .”

 

Hope someone can learn from my bitter experience.

 

Schuyler

 

 

I've been using Krylon clear flat finish in lieu of Testors Dull Coat
for awhile now with no problems. Saturday I prayed a Red Caboose 10,000
gallon tank car kit with it as part of the weathering process.

The Krylon reacted with the silver paint and "crinkled" it. The black
paint on the bottom of the tank and the frame along with the "Rustall" I
used on parts of the frame was fine.

I can't explain it, I had not had that trouble before, Just a heads up
to anyone looking to save a few bucks by using the Krylon.

Jeff White
Alma, IL


Tony Thompson
 

Schuyler Larrabee] wrote:

 
I will NEVER use Krylon on a model again.

Decades ago, I superdetailed an ABBA set of Athearn F7 units . . .

 I painted them with Floquil, and used Accucals and Accupaint for the yellow nose.  Lots of drying time between the two, and there wasn’t any reaction between the two paints or the decals and the Floquil black.  I overcoated them with Krylon, on the recommendation of a fellow club member.

 So after about two years or so, one day I took them out of the box and they felt a little “sticky.”  And then I noticed the fingerprints in the decals.  And the wrinkles in the stripes.  And then the fellow club member said “Oh, yeah, I’ve seen something like that on some of my models . . .”


   I'm happy to say I never had a tragedy like Schuyler describes, but I too have had problems in past years with Krylon. I too would recommend that it NOT be used for anything.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Dave Parker
 

 I have a can of Krylon solely for use for "fixing" home-made decals after they come out of the laser printer. This is what MicroMark recommends with their decal paper.

Has anyone had a problem with this application of Krylon?

Thanks.

Dave Parker
Riverside, CA


Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

Not yet. I painted a CB&Q SSS baggage car with Krylon Flat Aluminum and sealed the custom inkjet printed shadowline decals with Krylon Crystal Clear. Three years later, all is well.



Nelson Moyer



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 7:28 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Krylon clear flat v. Red Caboose silver paint





I have a can of Krylon solely for use for "fixing" home-made decals after they come out of the laser printer. This is what MicroMark recommends with their decal paper.

Has anyone had a problem with this application of Krylon?

Thanks.

Dave Parker
Riverside, CA





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Greg Martin
 

Nelson,
 
The original thread was an issue over mixing Krylon with other brands of paints with dissimilar vehicles. This is dicey regardless. Moral of the story don't mix them with Krylon.   
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 12/22/2014 9:05:54 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
Not yet. I painted a CB&Q SSS baggage car with Krylon Flat Aluminum and sealed the custom inkjet printed shadowline decals with Krylon Crystal Clear. Three years later, all is well.

Nelson Moyer


Clark Propst
 

You guys using paint from a rattle can?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Benjamin Hom
 

Clark Propst asked:
"You guys using paint from a rattle can?"

I do if I can get away with it. I hate cleaning the airbrush.


Ben Hom