Topics

DT&I 41' Gon was GM&O Gon


Mark Stamm
 

I was just looking at three unbuilt Proto2000 52' gons the other day thinking I don't need three, but the link provided for the GM&O decals http://home.mindspring.com/~paducah/icg77.htm give me another idea. A simple kitbash by cutting the three middle sections of the Proto2000 52' gon as described at the link above gives me a 41' DT&I Gon that works in my 1949 modeling year.

Now does anyone know where I can get decals and a photo of said gon?

Thanks
Mark

Mark P Stamm
Mark at Euphoriatt dot Com

Sent from my mobile device


al_brown03
 

The DT&I gondola, some later sold to the GM&O, is the prototype for the 2010 Cocoa Beach Shake & Take project. A handout with photos is in the files of the Shake_N_Take group, and some members of that group may have decals.


Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


Bill Welch
 

Mont Switzer did this kitbash instead of using the  Athearn gon for the Cocoa beach "Shake & Take" DT&I gon project. Suggest you join the S&T group and explore the resources there.

Bill Welch


Greg Martin
 

Mark,
 
This will result in a stand in at best. There is no simple way to do this except for a bash with the Athearn car.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 2/18/2016 3:37:11 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

I was just looking at three unbuilt Proto2000 52' gons the other day thinking I don't need three, but the link provided for the GM&O decals http://home.mindspring.com/~paducah/icg77.htm give me another idea. A simple kitbash by cutting the three middle sections of the Proto2000 52' gon as described at the link above gives me a 41' DT&I Gon that works in my 1949 modeling year.

Now does anyone know where I can get decals and a photo of said gon?

Thanks
Mark

Mark P Stamm
Mark at Euphoriatt dot Com

Sent from my mobile device


Greg Martin
 

Correct he did and then John Greedy pointed out why it doesn't really work and Mont was in Oh Well mode.  3^(
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 2/18/2016 6:22:01 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

Mont Switzer did this kitbash instead of using the  Athearn gon for the Cocoa beach "Shake & Take" DT&I gon project. Suggest you join the S&T group and explore the resources there.


Bill Welch


Mark Stamm
 

Al, bill and Greg 

Thanks for the direction.  I downloaded the 2010 S&T PDF I'll give it a read this weekend. I knew it could not be as easy as a few quick cuts🙁

Mark P Stamm
Mark at Euphoriatt dot Com

Sent from my mobile device

On Feb 18, 2016, at 9:22 PM, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Mark,
 
This will result in a stand in at best. There is no simple way to do this except for a bash with the Athearn car.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 2/18/2016 3:37:11 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

I was just looking at three unbuilt Proto2000 52' gons the other day thinking I don't need three, but the link provided for the GM&O decals http://home.mindspring.com/~paducah/icg77.htm give me another idea. A simple kitbash by cutting the three middle sections of the Proto2000 52' gon as described at the link above gives me a 41' DT&I Gon that works in my 1949 modeling year.

Now does anyone know where I can get decals and a photo of said gon?

Thanks
Mark

Mark P Stamm
Mark at Euphoriatt dot Com

Sent from my mobile device


Daniel Kohlberg
 

I prefer to save the phrase "stand in at best" for some other project.

I built my GM&O cars from my stash of P2K kits in 2005 or so.  Maybe I am missing something, but...

-The P2K gon allows me to get the right length in 2 major cuts.  The Athearn Gon requires 6 major cuts. (4 to shorten body, 2 to remove ends)

-The P2K Gon gives me the right ends.  The Athearn route requires scratch built or custom cast ends.

-The P2K Gon give me the right underframe, trimmed similar to the body, complete with brake gear.  The Athearn Gon has an incorrect drop centersill with no brake gear.

-The P2K Gon has correct stirrups, grabs etc. out of the box,  It also gives me interior and floor detail.

-The P2K Gon is a finer level of tooling, and just as cheap.  Who didn't buy stacks of P2K kits back in the day for $5?

-And even more importantly for me: my P2k cars were a 2-day project.

I understand the merits of a Shake and Take project, and that things are donated for some group fun and group execution of the same model.  But I really don't care about that. 

The Athearn Gon just seems like the long way to go, even if it is "free."  Yes, I do get a slightly cheated floor height with the P2K Gon.  Yes, the 4 middle ribs on the side drop are a hair short on a P2K kitbash.  This can be fixed with some styrene modeling.  Perhaps some of us consider that easier than scratch building ends and dealing with the shortcomings of a 50 year old Athearn kludge. 

Have a great weekend everyone!

Dan Kohlberg

-----Original Message-----
From: "tgregmrtn@... [STMFC]"
Sent: Feb 18, 2016 8:22 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] DT&I 41' Gon was GM&O Gon



Mark,
 
This will result in a stand in at best. There is no simple way to do this except for a bash with the Athearn car.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 2/18/2016 3:37:11 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

I was just looking at three unbuilt Proto2000 52' gons the other day thinking I don't need three, but the link provided for the GM&O decals http://home.mindspring.com/~paducah/icg77.htm give me another idea. A simple kitbash by cutting the three middle sections of the Proto2000 52' gon as described at the link above gives me a 41' DT&I Gon that works in my 1949 modeling year.

Now does anyone know where I can get decals and a photo of said gon?

Thanks
Mark

Mark P Stamm
Mark at Euphoriatt dot Com

Sent from my mobile device



Greg Martin
 

Dan and all,
 
This is not a "my dog is bigger than your dog" note.
 
The Athearn is a dirty little bash to be quite honest. However, it was well researched by Richard Hendrickson and I did my homework as well by converting the builders photos to scale to acquire the dimensions and verify them.  No need to defend the results. 
 
If you want to do the project from the P2K car be my guest and the instructions from the SHAKE N TAKE project will certainly help with things like a better representation of the drop end casting. 
 
Regardless, keep modeling and make compromises when you have to.
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
Dan writes:

I prefer to save the phrase "stand in at best" for some other project.

I built my GM&O cars from my stash of P2K kits in 2005 or so.  Maybe I am missing something, but...

-The P2K gon allows me to get the right length in 2 major cuts.  The Athearn Gon requires 6 major cuts. (4 to shorten body, 2 to remove ends)

-The P2K Gon gives me the right ends.  The Athearn route requires scratch built or custom cast ends.

-The P2K Gon give me the right underframe, trimmed similar to the body, complete with brake gear.   ;The Athearn Gon has an incorrect drop centersill with no brake gear.

-The P2K Gon has correct stirrups, grabs etc. out of the box,  It also gives me interior and floor detail.

-The P2K Gon is a finer level of tooling, and just as cheap.  Who didn't buy stacks of P2K kits back in the day for $5?

-And even more importantly for me: my P2k cars were a 2-day project.

I understand the merits of a Shake and Take project, and that things are donated for some group fun and group execution of the same model.  But I really don't care about that. 

The Athearn Gon just seems like the long way to go, even if it is "free."  Yes, I do get a slightly cheated floor height with the P2K Gon.  Yes, the 4 middle ribs on the side drop are a hair short on a P2K kitbash.  This can be fixed with some styrene modeling.  Perhaps some of us consider that easier than scratch building ends and dealing with the shortcomings of a 50 year old Athearn kludge. 

Have a great weekend everyone!

Dan Kohlberg


riverman_vt@...
 

   Just another thought on this coversion job. Might there be any value
in trying to use an Athearn mid section with Proto 2000 ends???
Haven't really looked but just wondering. Perhaps the two won't mate
well enough.

Cordially, Don Valentine