Topics

Glue for P2K E unit pilot


David North
 

I realise this is a bit off topic for the STMFC but given all the input recently on glues, I’m hoping for some help.

I broke the pilot on my P2K E7 and have no idea what will glue it back together.

I assumed it was moulded in ABS, but I tried Plastruct and Acetone with no success.

I don’t want to use ACC as it can leave a white frosting, plus I’d prefer something that welds the plastic together.

Does anyone have any ideas, please?

Cheers

Dave North


Todd Sullivan
 

Hi Dave,

Mike Rose sells a kind of epoxy ("Cypoxy") that is not cheap but apparently creates a strong molecular bond between most materials, and seems particularly good on most plastics, even engineering plastics.  You can find it on Mike's web site for Mike Rose Hobbies at http://www.mrhobby.com/ .

Todd Sullivan
Liverpool, NY

 


Andy Miller
 

Dave,



Which Plastruct did you use? The White Label PS is only good for Styrene,
but the Orange label PS should work on styrene or ABS. (The pink label is
not good for much).



Regards ,



Andy Miller



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2016 9:50 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Glue for P2K E unit pilot





I realise this is a bit off topic for the STMFC but given all the input
recently on glues, I'm hoping for some help.

I broke the pilot on my P2K E7 and have no idea what will glue it back
together.

I assumed it was moulded in ABS, but I tried Plastruct and Acetone with no
success.

I don't want to use ACC as it can leave a white frosting, plus I'd prefer
something that welds the plastic together.

Does anyone have any ideas, please?

Cheers

Dave North


David North
 

Dave,
Which Plastruct did you use? The White Label PS is only good for Styrene,
but the Orange label PS should work on styrene or ABS. (The pink label is
not good for much).
Regards ,
Andy Miller

 

 

 

Hi Andrew,

I used the orange label.

It had no effect on the pilot material.

 

To test the glue, I scraped a small area on th back of the pilot to take the shiny surface off the plastic.

I then rubbed a micro brush loaded with Plastruct orange on the scraped surface.

I expected to see the surface soften and get a bit gooey.

But nothing happened – it was like wiping water on the material.

 

I’m somewhat baffled by this stuff.

Maybe its not ABS?

Thanks for your advice.

Cheers

Dave


David North
 

Hi Dave,
Mike Rose sells a kind of epoxy ("Cypoxy") that is not cheap but apparently creates a strong molecular bond between most materials, and seems particularly good on most plastics, even engineering plastics. You can find it on Mike's web site for Mike Rose Hobbies at http://www.mrhobby.com/ http://www.mrhobby.com/ .
Todd Sullivan

 

HI Todd,

Thanks for your suggestion.

I was hoping to find a glue that would ‘weld’ th joint.

I may have to look at an epoxy.

I tried the product Mike sells a few years ago with poor results.

Cost a fortune to get here (Australia) and it went off very quickly.

I think the current product may be different, but I’m a bit gun shy.

Cheers

Dave


Todd Sullivan
 

Hi Dave,

Apologies - I didn't realize you were down under.  As another thought, I've had better than average results with Plastruct orange label cement - the one for styrene and ABS.  From the smell, it seems to have plexiglass in solution, and that helps secure parts together better than other brands.  The old Ambroid Plasticweld also did a better job, but I can't find that anymore.

Todd.



From: "'David North' david.north@... [STMFC]"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 7:38 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Glue for P2K E unit pilot

 
Hi Dave,
Mike Rose sells a kind of epoxy ("Cypoxy") that is not cheap but apparently creates a strong molecular bond between most materials, and seems particularly good on most plastics, even engineering plastics. You can find it on Mike's web site for Mike Rose Hobbies at http://www.mrhobby.com/ http://www.mrhobby.com/ .
Todd Sullivan
 
HI Todd,
Thanks for your suggestion.
I was hoping to find a glue that would ‘weld’ th joint.
I may have to look at an epoxy.
I tried the product Mike sells a few years ago with poor results.
Cost a fortune to get here (Australia) and it went off very quickly.
I think the current product may be different, but I’m a bit gun shy.
Cheers
Dave



Bill Welch
 

When living in Virginia—2009 and before—I tried Cyanopoxy as it was called then twice and never had any success with it. It was supposedly fresh which I understand is important. It was packaged in a quantity I could not imagine using up before it might go bad and was pricey. I cannot remember why I went for it a second time, maybe because I thought I might have done something wrong.

Loctite has a similar two-part product, a "felt tip applicator" to prepare the surface and the cement in a conventional tube. Much more affordable and it worked for me. I found it at Lowe's/Home Depot.

Bill Welch


Tim O'Connor
 


There are a number of ways to prepare the surface -- it depends on what
is being bonded, and the condition of the surface. All CA's are affected
by moisture in the air, or on the surfaces, or by oxides or 'films' on
the surface. Good preparation of surfaces will make for stronger bonds.
Online advice says that thin layers of CA work best.

The Wikipedia page mentions that Loctite "gel" CA contains rubber compounds
which I didn't know. I guess this creates a more flexible bond? I wonder if
this would work ok for etched running boards...

Tim O'



When living in Virginia�2009 and before�I��I tried Cyanopoxy as it was called then twice and never had any success with it. It was supposedly fresh which I understand is important. It was packaged in a quantity I could not imagine using up before it might go bad and was pricey. I cannot remember why I went for it a second time, maybe because I thought I might have done something wrong.

Loctite has a similar two-part product, a "felt tip applicator" to prepare the surface and the cement in a conventional tube. Much more affordable and it worked for me. I found it at Lowe's/Home Depot.

Bill Welch


Mark Vinski
 

I just tried MEK on a P2K E unit and it seemed to make a good bond.


Mark Vinski