Stock car sanding

Andy Carlson

Aside from some verbose model construction articles which guides one's hands through every step, we are otherwise on our own for the techniques needed to achieve the desired results.

I don't glue my sand paper to the glass surface as I find it not necessary, though I do check my sanding progress often. The light pressure of my fleshy fingers on the face of the stock car side seems to be sufficient for my purposes. I do use a coarser grit than has been recommended, as I don't want this to be a tedious endeavor.

I am fortunate to have been mentored on auto body work as a very young adult. The lessons I learned were numerous, and one which has helped me in modeling is usingĀ  a cross-hatch pattern of sanding. Any side (or end) which is being sanded gets a few diagonal left-to-right upwards passes followed by an equal number of downward passes. This creates visible cross-hatch patterns from the sanding operation, but most importantly, it evenly spreads the work so nothing gets too thin while other less worked areas remain thick.

As I stated earlier, flash is an over-thickening of a part. If a novice resin builder simply removes flash from an end, the finished car body will show the imperfections as if it were spot lighted. Simply using a shearing action to remove flash leaves the finished part overly thick, such as on the back side of the end. This is not a problem for an underframe, because the over-thickness is concealed inside the car body.

I like the delight of seeing the final thin whisks of flash simply float away when the back-side of the stock car casting is sanded down.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

Jared Harper