Labor Day modeling follies


Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
 

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout. The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted Athearn Lancaster & Chester “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy” car was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48. It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside- a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over. There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped. I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box: a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos. I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight.

*****

Tru-Color paints: I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes. So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red). I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched. Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

*****

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny




Sacramento, CA 95864


Charles Peck
 

Denny, not long ago I used a center punch to open a large hole in a stubborn bottle lid and strained the
contents through a funnel into a new bottle. So I got about a half ounce out of perhaps three quarter.
Still better than a total loss.
Chuck Peck in Acadia NP

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 8:34 PM, Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout. The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted Athearn Lancaster & Chester “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy” car was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48. It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside- a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over. There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped. I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box: a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos. I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight.

*****

Tru-Color paints: I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes. So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red). I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched. Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

*****

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny

Sacramento, CA 95864



mrprksr <mrprksr@...>
 

I have had luck opening stuck floquil lids by soaking them lid side down in a slightly larger lid in acetone....give it alittle time...dry it off some and use a pair of plyers on lid...Hope this helps...Larry Mennie


On Monday, September 5, 2016 8:50 PM, "Charles Peck lnnrr152@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
Denny, not long ago I used a center punch to open a large hole in a stubborn bottle lid and strained the
contents through a funnel into a new bottle. So I got about a half ounce out of perhaps three quarter.
Still better than a total loss.
Chuck Peck in Acadia NP

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 8:34 PM, Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 
Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout. The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted Athearn Lancaster & Chester “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy” car was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48. It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside- a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over. There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped. I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box: a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos. I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight.

*****

Tru-Color paints: I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes. So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red). I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched. Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

*****

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny

Sacramento, CA 95864





Rod Miller
 

On 9/5/16 5:50 PM, Charles Peck lnnrr152@gmail.com [STMFC] wrote:


Denny, not long ago I used a center punch to open a large hole in a stubborn
bottle lid and strained the
contents through a funnel into a new bottle. So I got about a half ounce out of
perhaps three quarter.
Still better than a total loss.
Chuck Peck in Acadia NP
[snip]

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I
am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.-
that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a
bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush
already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open
(screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting
imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket
unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny

Sacramento, CA 95864
My method of preserving paint in the bottle is to carefully wipe
all the paint from the top edge of the bottle (where the cap
seals) and to clean the inside of the cap completely, usually
washing it with lacquer thinner. When the occasional cap
defeats my muscles, I use a pair of slip jaw pliers with the
jaws opened so the sharp ribs enclose the cap, works every
time.

To help mix the paint after it has been sitting for a while,
the first time I open the container I add steel BBs. My
supply from years ago is Crossman Copperhead copper coated
steel airgun shot. This is for paints with pigments that
settle such as Floquil.

--
Rod Miller
Handcraftsman
===
Custom 2-rail O Scale Models: Drives, | O Scale West / S West
Repairs, Steam Loco Building, More | 2016 Meet is May 5 - 7
http://www.rodmiller.com | http://www.oscalewest.com


Joseph
 

Denny,
To address the last point, I have turned the bottle upside down and dripped a few drops of lacquer thinner between the top and the  ottle.  Wait a few minutes and it should release.  I have also crushed a scalecoat black bottle, cutting my hand and spilling paint all over myself, my clothes and the floor.

joe binish



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
Date: 9/5/16 7:34 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: Steam Era Freight Car List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more  worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout.   The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted  Athearn Lancaster & Chester  “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy”  car  was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48.  It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside-  a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over.  There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .  

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with  Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped.  I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting  anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor  consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box:  a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos.  I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight. 

*****

Tru-Color paints:  I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes.  So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red).  I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched.  Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

***** 

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction.  It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny




Sacramento, CA 95864



------------------------------------
Posted by: Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
------------------------------------


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gary laakso
 

Denny:
I place the bottle upside down in a pot with water up to the top of the cap and heat the water until it boils for a few minutes.  The bottle needs to cool for a minute after its removed and then it unscrews.

Gary Laakso
south of Mike Brock


On Sep 5, 2016, at 9:22 PM, binish6 binish6@q.com [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Denny,
To address the last point, I have turned the bottle upside down and dripped a few drops of lacquer thinner between the top and the  ottle.  Wait a few minutes and it should release.  I have also crushed a scalecoat black bottle, cutting my hand and spilling paint all over myself, my clothes and the floor.

joe binish



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
Date: 9/5/16 7:34 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: Steam Era Freight Car List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more  worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout.   The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted  Athearn Lancaster & Chester  “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy”  car  was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48.  It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside-  a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over.  There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .  

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with  Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped.  I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting  anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor  consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box:  a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos.  I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight. 

*****

Tru-Color paints:  I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes.  So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red).  I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched.  Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

***** 

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction.  It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny




Sacramento, CA 95864



------------------------------------
Posted by: Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
------------------------------------


------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/

<*> Your email settings:
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<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
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    STMFC-fullfeatured@...

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Schuyler Larrabee
 

Gary, I use pretty much the same method, except to be sure the cap expands quickly from its static state, I put the bottle top-down in a shallow dish and then pour boiling water from the kettle into the lid deep enough to pretty much match the height of the cap. This way the cap expands quickly and the bottle doesn’t, and generally the bottle doesn’t get hot. I’d also be jumpy about the bottle deciding to let go and you’ve got paint in a lot of places you don’t want it!



As Rod suggested, the slip-jaw pliers usually win over the stuck cap.



Schuyler



Denny:

I place the bottle upside down in a pot with water up to the top of the cap and heat the water until it boils for a few minutes. The bottle needs to cool for a minute after its removed and then it unscrews.



Gary Laakso

south of Mike Brock

On Sep 5, 2016, at 9:22 PM, binish6 binish6@q.com [STMFC] <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Denny,

To address the last point, I have turned the bottle upside down and dripped a few drops of lacquer thinner between the top and the ottle. Wait a few minutes and it should release. I have also crushed a scalecoat black bottle, cutting my hand and spilling paint all over myself, my clothes and the floor.



joe binish







Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone



-------- Original message --------
From: "Denny Anspach danspachmd@gmail.com [STMFC]" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 9/5/16 7:34 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: Steam Era Freight Car List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout. The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted Athearn Lancaster & Chester “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy” car was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48. It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside- a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over. There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped. I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box: a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos. I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight.

*****

Tru-Color paints: I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes. So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red). I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched. Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

*****

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny




Sacramento, CA 95864



------------------------------------
Posted by: Denny Anspach <danspachmd@gmail.com>
------------------------------------


------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


dgconnery@...
 

Dr. Anspatch,


I have found the True Color Flat Rail Brown to be anything but flat and more akin to Oxide Red than either the color of rail I see or the color Floquil used - which I have enjoyed using for several purposes. I have not yet found a use for the jar of Flat Rail Brown from True Color but it will not be on either my rail sides or other rusted and dirty metal surfaces.


I hold my metal lidded jars of paint I can not remove under the hottest running water I can get from my water heater to expand the metal and loosen the lid. If I have to resort to my goosenecks to ultimately break the lid free I know I must replace the lid, once squeezed with the pliers the lid never seals properly and the paint will be wasted.


Dave Connery

San Ramon, CA


Andy Miller
 

For Floquil solvent-based paint, I use the few-drops-of- lacquer-thinner-in-the-inverted cap technique already mentioned. For other paints, I use the hot water technique, but I just hold the cap sideways under the hot water tap being careful not to let the hot water run over the glass bottle.



Regards,



Andy Miller



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 9:55 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies





Gary, I use pretty much the same method, except to be sure the cap expands quickly from its static state, I put the bottle top-down in a shallow dish and then pour boiling water from the kettle into the lid deep enough to pretty much match the height of the cap. This way the cap expands quickly and the bottle doesn’t, and generally the bottle doesn’t get hot. I’d also be jumpy about the bottle deciding to let go and you’ve got paint in a lot of places you don’t want it!

As Rod suggested, the slip-jaw pliers usually win over the stuck cap.

Schuyler

Denny:

I place the bottle upside down in a pot with water up to the top of the cap and heat the water until it boils for a few minutes. The bottle needs to cool for a minute after its removed and then it unscrews.

Gary Laakso

south of Mike Brock
On Sep 5, 2016, at 9:22 PM, binish6 binish6@q.com [STMFC] <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Denny,

To address the last point, I have turned the bottle upside down and dripped a few drops of lacquer thinner between the top and the ottle. Wait a few minutes and it should release. I have also crushed a scalecoat black bottle, cutting my hand and spilling paint all over myself, my clothes and the floor.

joe binish

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "Denny Anspach danspachmd@gmail.com [STMFC]" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 9/5/16 7:34 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: Steam Era Freight Car List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout. The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted Athearn Lancaster & Chester “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy” car was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48. It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside- a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over. There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped. I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box: a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos. I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight.

*****

Tru-Color paints: I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes. So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red). I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched. Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

*****

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny

Sacramento, CA 95864

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Posted by: Denny Anspach <danspachmd@gmail.com>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


pennsylvania1954
 

Denny--I have had success with just hot water from the tap. Run the water until it is hot, then immerse the cap end in the stream. There will be enough heat to expand the cap and soften the dried paint. After a minute or so, it is time for the pliers.

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL


Greg Martin
 

Denny,
 
As others have mentioned I too use hot water to expand the lid and in some cases the darn lids still wants to stick; so I wonder slowly into the kitchen and get the wife's rubber or neoprene bottle opener out of the drawer and wrap it tight and that more than not will do the job. (A wide rubber band works as well) I hate resorting to pliers of any kind if it can be helped. I also hate getting caught with the evidence in hand...    3^)
 
Greg Martin 
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 9/5/2016 5:41:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny


rob.mclear3@...
 

Floquil caps can be difficult and I don't like using pliers for the reasons that one of the other posters mentioned, I have broken the glass jar top and cap right off the bottle, not good for the hands.  What I do now is have a piece of pliable rubber pad, the kind that has perforations in it and used in cupboards to stop things sliding around, on hand and wrap that around the cap I can usually get the caps off with this although it does take some force.   I have also used lacquer thinner in the cap upside down as well and that works ok too.

Rob McLear
Aussie.


Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Greg and Denny,

You need your own supply of these jar lid openers. :~) Seriously, I grab them up at county fairs and such, especially at booths that deal with ageing issues. My credit union also gives them away frequently. I mostly use them to hold the shafts when I set screw-on points to my wooden arrows (mandatory archery content).

Now I'm at the age where their use in the kitchen is becoming a day-to-day necessity.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 9/6/16 12:13 AM, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Denny,
 
As others have mentioned I too use hot water to expand the lid and in some cases the darn lids still wants to stick; so I wonder slowly into the kitchen and get the wife's rubber or neoprene bottle opener out of the drawer and wrap it tight and that more than not will do the job. (A wide rubber band works as well) I hate resorting to pliers of any kind if it can be helped. I also hate getting caught with the evidence in hand...    3^)
 
Greg Martin 
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 9/5/2016 5:41:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny



Jared Harper
 

Who's on this list, a  bunch of geezers?

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


---In STMFC@..., <sarahsan@...> wrote :

Greg and Denny,

You need your own supply of these jar lid openers. :~) Seriously, I grab them up at county fairs and such, especially at booths that deal with ageing issues. My credit union also gives them away frequently. I mostly use them to hold the shafts when I set screw-on points to my wooden arrows (mandatory archery content).

Now I'm at the age where their use in the kitchen is becoming a day-to-day necessity.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 9/6/16 12:13 AM, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Denny,
 
As others have mentioned I too use hot water to expand the lid and in some cases the darn lids still wants to stick; so I wonder slowly into the kitchen and get the wife's rubber or neoprene bottle opener out of the drawer and wrap it tight and that more than not will do the job. (A wide rubber band works as well) I hate resorting to pliers of any kind if it can be helped. I also hate getting caught with the evidence in hand...    3^)
 
Greg Martin 
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 9/5/2016 5:41:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny



William Hirt
 

Denny,

I purchased a few years ago a paint bottle opener from Micro Mark <http://www.micromark.com/jar-opener-5-inch-dia-capacity,7725.html>. I just used again this weekend. I have never broken a jar using it and I've been able to even get very old and long unused paint bottles open with it. It works perfect for Floquil and Polly Scale bottles.

Bill Hirt

On 9/5/2016 7:34 PM, Denny Anspach danspachmd@gmail.com [STMFC] wrote:
Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?


Peter Hall
 

All,

I have found “Soft Jaw Pliers” from Garrett-Wade work extremely well with stubborn lids on paint jars.  The large soft-jaw pipe pliers, Stock No. 94P05.01, will adapt to both Floquil-sized lids and Scalecoat-sized lids, as well as other sizes.  The pliers have soft, rubber-lined jaws which grip the metal lids without distorting them.

Combine the pliers with the hot-water-on-the-lid-only technique and I have been able to open every jar.  I also clean the top lip of the jar of paint, as well as the inside of the cap with a Q-tip, before replacing the cap.  I have found that shaking paint deposits a new film of paint on the jar and lid, so this has to be done each time I open the jar.

Thanks
Pete





On Sep 6, 2016, at 9:28 AM, Bill Hirt whirt@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

Denny,

I purchased a few years ago a paint bottle opener from Micro Mark 
<http://www.micromark.com/jar-opener-5-inch-dia-capacity,7725.html>. I 
just used again this weekend. I have never broken a jar using it and 
I've been able to even get very old and long unused paint bottles open 
with it. It works perfect for Floquil and Polly Scale bottles.

Bill Hirt

On 9/5/2016 7:34 PM, Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC] wrote:
> Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?
>
>



Greg Rich
 

If the stubborn bottle paint in question has a sticking lid due to dried paint build-up, one remedy I've used successfully is to invert the bottle on a surface and add a few drops on lacquer thinner to the inside of the ring formed by the metal cap. Let this sit for 4-5 minutes and remove the lid normally with a set of pliers. 
Ps. Try to clean the threads of the bottle/cap with thinner before reinstalling cap.

I 've rarely run across a stubborn cap that cannot be removed using this technique.

Greg Rich



Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone


James E Kubanick
 

 In addition to he hot water techniques mentioned by others, I have a small plastic strap wrench that can slip around any size model paint bottle lid. It transfers the torque to the lid and not so much to the bottle, so I have never broken a bottle with this tool, but it still exerts a lot of pressure on the lid without denting as pliers sometimes do. On the few instances where I have had to resort to the additional hot water treatment, the wrench does not draw any heat away from the lid.

As I recall, I purchased this strap wrench from Sears. It came with a larger one as a set of two.\

Jim Kubanick
Morgantown WV


On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 10:48 AM, "Bill Hirt whirt@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
Denny,

I purchased a few years ago a paint bottle opener from Micro Mark
. I
just used again this weekend. I have never broken a jar using it and
I've been able to even get very old and long unused paint bottles open
with it. It works perfect for Floquil and Polly Scale bottles.

Bill Hirt

On 9/5/2016 7:34 PM, Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC] wrote:
> Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?
>
>