Silicon for attaching weights


Bill Welch
 

I use nuts for weight in House Cars attached over the trucks, framed on two sides with .100 x .100 styrene strip. I cannot find the adhesive I have traditionally have used for attaching the nuts and thought I would used Silicon. What should I look for at HomeDepot/Lowes/Ace?


Bill Welch


Pierre Oliver
 

Any clear silicone sealant will do

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 7/01/17 11:16 AM, fgexbill@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

I use nuts for weight in House Cars attached over the trucks, framed on two sides with .100 x .100 styrene strip. I cannot find the adhesive I have traditionally have used for attaching the nuts and thought I would used Silicon. What should I look for at HomeDepot/Lowes/Ace?


Bill Welch



frograbbit602
 

Bill, I use the GE Silicone II clear Premium Waterproof Silicone; however, any of the silicones will work or if you have Formula '560' canopy glue on hand you may want to try using that as it too will work well.
Lester Breuer




Schuyler Larrabee
 

Most hardware stores carry small tubes of silicone sealant. I’ve used this for years, but I now use lead tire weights that come with double stick foam tape. I have yet to find one of them loose after years.



BTW, there is a difference between silicon and silicone.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2017 11:16 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Silicon for attaching weights





I use nuts for weight in House Cars attached over the trucks, framed on two sides with .100 x .100 styrene strip. I cannot find the adhesive I have traditionally have used for attaching the nuts and thought I would used Silicon. What should I look for at HomeDepot/Lowes/Ace?



Bill Welch


Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
 

Clear silicone sealant is not a true adhesive, a cautionary and perhaps not wise choice when considering the gluing of weights into sealed house cars. Use a good fully wicked-off contact cement, good and safe for styrene, resin, wood, metal, plaster or paper; and it will never fail.


Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA


Tony Thompson
 

Bill Welch wrote:

 
I use nuts for weight in House Cars attached over the trucks, framed on two sides with .100 x .100 styrene strip. I cannot find the adhesive I have traditionally have used for attaching the nuts and thought I would used Silicon. What should I look for at HomeDepot/Lowes/Ace?

    I always use canopy glue for this and have had excellent results.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Clark Propst
 

I’ve had nuts come loose even with silicon. Maybe I forgot to sand the resin?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Gary Ray
 

I tried silicone caulk (for the bathtub – as I recall it was the GE Silicon) and held at first and then weights popped off.  I now use Barge Cement (old style – I was lucky enough to have a quart can – also great for gluing down rail to Central Valley tie strips – done with all the track work, thank goodness!)

Gary Ray

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 1, 2017 8:46 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Silicon for attaching weights

 



Bill, I use the GE Silicone II clear Premium Waterproof Silicone; however, any of the silicones will work or if you have Formula '560' canopy glue on hand you may want to try using that as it too will work well.

Lester Breuer

 

 

 





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Bob Chapman
 

Bill --
 
Whatever you do, don't use "silicon" -- it's a crystalline element with no adhesive properties.  
 
As mentioned by other responders, silicone sealants are not true adhesives, but have sufficient adhesion to secure weights, etc. The brands you'll find at retail sources are similar in properties.
 
Regards,
Bob Chapman
 
  
 
I use nuts for weight in House Cars attached over the trucks, framed on two sides with .100 x .100 styrene strip. I cannot find the adhesive I have traditionally have used for attaching the nuts and thought I would used Silicon. What should I look for at HomeDepot/Lowes/Ace?


Bill Welch


Lee Thwaits
 

Permatex Silicone states clearly on the label General Purpose Adhesive. I have used it for years for weights, motors, gluing roofs on Intermountain cars all in O scale. Never a failure. Motors must be cut off for removal. Experimented with it on various types of plastic which gives very secure bond that can, if need be, be broken apart with some twisting. I agree that GE silicon bathtub calk is useless.

Lee Thwaits


ron christensen
 

I have used Dap clear silicon adhesive to stick plastic miniature switches to homemade metal  snap switch machines for well over 10 years and have never had a failure. I think clamping the items together is the reason for success. It also works well glueing figures to the layout, just peal them off if you want  to move them.
Ron Christensen


nvrr49@...
 

Liquid Nails Clear Silicone ADHESIVE. http://www.liquidnails.com/en-US/products/green-glue-LN207?wt.mc_id=ln17ps-b&wt.tsrc=Paid%20Search&gclid=CJfXkuK_6tQCFUK4wAod3nAA3A

Having worked for Liquid Nails, it is an adhesive. Just about every manufacturer of caulks and adhesives makes a similar product.

Kent Hurley
KC, MO
nvrr49.blogspot.com


Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
 

CLEAR silicone is not an adhesive (usually so warned on the label) but has an uncanny ability to simply grab onto a surface, fingers of silicone locking into any crevice, or irregularity. . The objects so joined can be resilient to mild stresses, but when separated, the silicone just peels off. This characteristic makes it quite useful in mounting new can motors in brass locomotives, and I have done so for about 20 years. . Flat featureless or painted surfaces are a recipe for failure. It is also pretty inert, probably the reason that it is commonly used to seal aquariums, and probably exactly why it has so poor adhesive qualities.

The blue Barge Cement in the small consumer tubes holds as well as the old yellow (only now available in bulk amounts). The blue is not as easy to work (more stringy-ness), but it is certainly manageable. As Tony Thompson avers, contact cements properly applied, like Barge, GOO, or Pliobond, provide incredibly strong lasting adhesion, virtually all failures that I have experienced (I have used them in modeling since the ‘50s) have been substrate failure, i.e. peeling paint, deteriorating or poor surface preparation, etc. Non destructive separation does not become an option.

Canopy and Kwik Clear: Sleeper adhesives that are incredibly useful for modelers. I do think that too much may be asked of these adhesives inasmuch as they are simply not the strongest.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento CA