DL&W Post WWII Steel Boxcar, a pretty easy kit-bash


Bill Welch
 

I been following Ted Culotta's Kit-Bash presentations online and have been inspired by them. I am also exploring various possibilities for my small stash of "Southwest Scale Production" doors (http://southwestscale.com/Freight-Car-Details_c3.htm) and therefore I suggest what I think is a straight forward kit-bash with a minimum of square cuts—always a challenge for me—to model a post WWII 10-ft IH DL&W steel boxcar w/a diagonal panel roof and Improved Dreadnaught ends.


Components needed are: an InterMountain 10-ft high ten panel 1937 boxcar kit; an InterMountain or Branchline diagonal panel roof; Southwest Scale Production 4/6/6 Youngstown doors and Accurail Steel Reefer ends. Not pictured are the necessary 8-rung ladders also from InterMountain


Here is a link showing photos of the IM body w/roof and doors and the Accurail end cut and spliced to create the correct Improved Dreadnaught end with asymmetrical to rib (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jui858cxa67acbz/AADC9bUQ0Wob6wjdJT-u7U3La?dl=0). This spliced end is not perfect on three counts:


1.) there are scars from removing the ladder but these will largely be covered by new ladders. 

2.) the end is slightly too wide—I plan to compensate for this with flanges on each end panel made from 0.005 styrene sheet that will have Archer Rivet decals applied.

3.) there should be more flat space under the bottom rib and at the top of the part as well.


This modified end will be copied in resin to make two ends. Mods to the body already made are the mounting tabs for the ladders and sill steps. I also plan to modify the small intermediate tabs where the cross ties connect. I am planning to use Yarmouth Sill Steps, and Kadee Bracket grabs. I will replace the ladder rungs w/.010 styrene rod. Speedwitch says they are planning to decals.


These post war 10-foot high cars are covered in one of the RP CYC's with detail info like running board, trucks, and brake gear.


Bill Welch


Ken Roth
 

Bill, I am wondering about another approach to the 10' IDE end.  I did this same DL&W car kitbash this summer using a similar approach (Southwest doors, diag. panel roof) except I used an Intermountain 10' IDE end with in conjunction with the pre-war 1937 body.  I may have missed something in the accuracy of the end, but it looks pretty close.  Not sure how easy it is to obtain a pair of those 10' IDE ends.  I happened to have a set.  I used the DL&W decal set (formerly Jerry Glow) now available from Tichy.

Ken Roth


pennsylvania1954
 

Hi Bill--I am with Ken in using a different approach for the ends. IM has/had 3/4 IDE ends with and without the top mini-rib for their 12 panel 10 ft boxcars (GN and others). Some years ago Andy Carlson tapped into IM and offered these ends. Please contact me off-list if you want a set.

Before Andy offered these, I modeled a DL&W car from a series previous to the one you are doing, with ends differing only by not having the top mini-rib. I used a Branchline end. This is a 3/4 IDE end, marked on the back side with "2E". My notes say "modified Branchline end" but at this point I don't recall what the mod was, although I am sure it wasn't complicated. They were not cut apart and reassembled.

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL