Tichy decals (was RE: Decal Adhesive)


Tony Thompson
 

Tim O'Connor wrote:

 

The WORD from several people at the Lisle RPM (Naperville) meet is that
TICHY decals are resistant to decal softeners and do NOT conform to model
rivets or weld seams or anything else. 


      Not sure why people are saying this. I have used several of the Tichy sets, and they certainly conform to rivets, etc. with Solvaset.
Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Pierre Oliver
 

It's a problem with printing process that Tichy acquired from Jerry Glow.

Even Don Tichy will admit it

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 10/31/17 12:53 PM, Tony Thompson tony@... [STMFC] wrote:

�
Tim O'Connor wrote:

�

The WORD from several people at the Lisle RPM (Naperville) meet is that
TICHY decals are resistant to decal softeners and do NOT conform to model
rivets or weld seams or anything else.�


� � � Not sure why people are saying this. I have used several of the Tichy sets, and they certainly conform to rivets, etc. with Solvaset.
Tony Thompson�� � � � � ��Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705�� � � ��www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history







Bill Welch
 

I am not sure Don got anything from Jerry other than his artwork. Jerry owned no capacity to print decals.

Bill Welch


dahminator68
 

Hello.  My understanding is that Don got a printer for making decals before he purchased Jerrys line.  I have used the single color decals with no problems for a while in Kits.  Some of the printing is good enough to read 1" lettering in HO.  
Thank you,
Andrew Dahm
Westerfieldmodels@...

On Tuesday, October 31, 2017, 10:12 AM, fgexbill@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

I am not sure Don got anything from Jerry other than his artwork. Jerry owned no capacity to print decals.


Bill Welch


Pierre Oliver
 

I've had that conversation with Don.
He readily admits that those new decals will not settle over rivets and other bumpy surfaces

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 2017-10-31 1:09 PM, fgexbill@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

I am not sure Don got anything from Jerry other than his artwork. Jerry owned no capacity to print decals.


Bill Welch


 

Guess I’ll be avoiding Tichy decals until they fix that. If they fix that.





Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni



From: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2017 at 12:17 PM
To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy decals (was RE: Decal Adhesive)





I've had that conversation with Don.
He readily admits that those new decals will not settle over rivets and other bumpy surfaces
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com

On 2017-10-31 1:09 PM, fgexbill@tampabay.rr.com [STMFC] wrote:



I am not sure Don got anything from Jerry other than his artwork. Jerry owned no capacity to print decals.



Bill Welch







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


skibbs4
 

I think we need to make a distinction here between the decal "film" and the printed image on the decals.

The film is fine, and will lay down with Solvaset like any decal film. 

The print process is relatively thick.  Single colors like black are not too thick and can conform.  Early white decals, with a single print layer are fine.  At some point they started doubling up the white, presumably for opacity, making it more difficult to conform.  The multicolor railroad heralds, rather than only printing the color where needed, have a full background of color.  Think an entire layer of white behind the red and blue on a UP herald. 

So, choose them appropriately for what model surface they are going on. 

It is also correct that the printer was purchased new by Tichy, only the art is from other sources. 

Mike Skibbe

On Tue, Oct 31, 2017 at 12:17 PM, Pierre Oliver pierre.oliver@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

I've had that conversation with Don.
He readily admits that those new decals will not settle over rivets and other bumpy surfaces

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 2017-10-31 1:09 PM, fgexbill@... [STMFC] wrote:
 


Steve and Barb Hile
 

FWIW, here is a copy of the paragraph sent to the Tichy email group back in August as part of a broader announcement of new products.
 
Due to the problems some of you are having with adhesion of logos and other large decal areas, we are changing our recommended application procedure. Float the decal off the backing paper and blot dry with a paper towel. Use a Q-Tip to apply a thin coat of Elmer's clear glue to the back side. Position the decal with tweezers and press in place with a piece of stiff flexible foam (foam from a brass model box works great). Let dry overnight and over spray with clear lacquer (glosscote or dullcote).
 
Steve Hile



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2017 12:10 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy decals (was RE: Decal Adhesive)

 

I am not sure Don got anything from Jerry other than his artwork. Jerry owned no capacity to print decals.


Bill Welch


Tim O'Connor
 


Tony,

That was my experience too with sets from Jerry Glow. But several people,
highly experienced and talented modelers, said they had real problems - So
maybe there was a bad batch, or a change of printers?

Tim O'Connor





Tim O'Connor wrote:

The WORD from several people at the Lisle RPM (Naperville) meet is that
TICHY decals are resistant to decal softeners and do NOT conform to model
rivets or weld seams or anything else.

Not sure why people are saying this. I have used several of the Tichy sets, and
they certainly conform to rivets, etc. with Solvaset.

Tony Thompson 


william darnaby
 

I think the Oscar Meyer herald included with the Take-n-Shake reefer a couple of years back fits with this description.  I had a terrible time getting it to lay down and it was my understanding that Jerry printed them.

 

Bill Darnaby

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2017 12:53 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy decals (was RE: Decal Adhesive)

 




I think we need to make a distinction here between the decal "film" and the printed image on the decals.

 

The film is fine, and will lay down with Solvaset like any decal film. 

 

The print process is relatively thick.  Single colors like black are not too thick and can conform.  Early white decals, with a single print layer are fine.  At some point they started doubling up the white, presumably for opacity, making it more difficult to conform.  The multicolor railroad heralds, rather than only printing the color where needed, have a full background of color.  Think an entire layer of white behind the red and blue on a UP herald. 

 

So, choose them appropriately for what model surface they are going on. 

 

It is also correct that the printer was purchased new by Tichy, only the art is from other sources. 

 

Mike Skibbe

 


Tim O'Connor
 

Steve

How that could POSSIBLY help them settle down and conform to surfaces is a total mystery to my imagination!

I still have some CHAMP decal solution. And TAMIYA makes some extra strength decal solution. I will try those
two methods. Sanding and DIO-SOL will be a last resort. If none of that works, then into the trash they go!

What a shame. Ted Culotta and others mentioned an excellent printer - CARTOGRAPH - based in Italy. This is
where Ted is printing his decals, and if I ever create some artwork, that's where I will go too.

http://www.cartograf.com/

Tim O'Connor




FWIW, here is a copy of the paragraph sent to the Tichy email group back in August as part of a broader announcement of new products.
 
Due to the problems some of you are having with adhesion of logos and other large decal areas, we are changing our recommended application procedure. Float the decal off the backing paper and blot dry with a paper towel. Use a Q-Tip to apply a thin coat of Elmer's clear glue to the back side. Position the decal with tweezers and press in place with a piece of stiff flexible foam (foam from a brass model box works great). Let dry overnight and over spray with clear lacquer (glosscote or dullcote).
 
Steve Hile


Brian Carlson
 

So instead of a decal it’s a sticker?!?   

Brian J. Carlson 

On Oct 31, 2017, at 1:58 PM, 'Steve and Barb Hile' shile@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

FWIW, here is a copy of the paragraph sent to the Tichy email group back in August as part of a broader announcement of new products.
 
Due to the problems some of you are having with adhesion of logos and other large decal areas, we are changing our recommended application procedure. Float the decal off the backing paper and blot dry with a paper towel. Use a Q-Tip to apply a thin coat of Elmer's clear glue to the back side. Position the decal with tweezers and press in place with a piece of stiff flexible foam (foam from a brass model box works great). Let dry overnight and over spray with clear lacquer (glosscote or dullcote).
 
Steve Hile


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2017 12:10 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy decals (was RE: Decal Adhesive)

 

I am not sure Don got anything from Jerry other than his artwork. Jerry owned no capacity to print decals.


Bill Welch


Pierre Oliver
 

Okay,

Let's try and clear some of this up.
The decals that were offered by Gerry Glow, all suffered from the same issue. The actual printed component of the decal was impervious to setting solutions and paint removers.
If you were applying to a simple steel side with no rivets, you'd be fine. Over any protrusion and you'd have an issue.
Don Tichy acquired all of Gerry's artwork and seems to have used to same print process for those same decals.
Tichy has offered and continues to offer decals that were/are printed in a more conventional manner and they behave as we would expect.
As in all things caveat emptor

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 10/31/17 2:46 PM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] wrote:

�


Tony,

That was my experience too with sets from Jerry Glow. But several people,
highly experienced and talented modelers, said they had real problems - So
maybe there was a bad batch, or a change of printers?

Tim O'Connor





Tim O'Connor wrote:

The WORD from several people at the Lisle RPM (Naperville) meet is that
TICHY decals are resistant to decal softeners and do NOT conform to model
rivets or weld seams or anything else.

Not sure why people are saying this. I have used several of the Tichy sets, and
they certainly conform to rivets, etc. with Solvaset.

Tony Thompson�


John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
 

Group.

I spoke with Don yesterday and he is very seriously looking at a new printer that is supposed to resolve some of the problems he is having. We did not go into specifics on exactly what problems as that was not the purpose of the call, but I can’t imagine that the thickness of the while wasn’t one of them.

He also told me the approximate cost involved and it ain’t cheap by any stretch.

John Hagen

 

>Tony,

>That was my experience too with sets from Jerry Glow. But several people,
>highly experienced and talented modelers, said they had real problems - So
>maybe there was a bad batch, or a change of printers?

>Tim O'Connor

>>Tim O'Connor wrote:
>>
>>The WORD from several people at the Lisle RPM (Naperville) meet is that
>>TICHY decals are resistant to decal softeners and do NOT conform to model
>>rivets or weld seams or anything else.
>>
>>Not sure why people are saying this. I have used several of the Tichy sets, and
>t>hey certainly conform to rivets, etc. with Solvaset.
>>
>>Tony Thompson

Reply to sender . Reply to group . Reply via Web Post . All Messages (19) . Top ^

 


 

How are we to know the difference?





Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni



From: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2017 at 2:04 PM
To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy decals (was RE: Decal Adhesive)





Okay,

Let's try and clear some of this up.
The decals that were offered by Gerry Glow, all suffered from the same issue. The actual printed component of the decal was impervious to setting solutions and paint removers.
If you were applying to a simple steel side with no rivets, you'd be fine. Over any protrusion and you'd have an issue.
Don Tichy acquired all of Gerry's artwork and seems to have used to same print process for those same decals.
Tichy has offered and continues to offer decals that were/are printed in a more conventional manner and they behave as we would expect.
As in all things caveat emptor
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com

On 10/31/17 2:46 PM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@comcast.net [STMFC] wrote:




Tony,

That was my experience too with sets from Jerry Glow. But several people,
highly experienced and talented modelers, said they had real problems - So
maybe there was a bad batch, or a change of printers?

Tim O'Connor





Tim O'Connor wrote:



The WORD from several people at the Lisle RPM (Naperville) meet is that
TICHY decals are resistant to decal softeners and do NOT conform to model
rivets or weld seams or anything else.


Not sure why people are saying this. I have used several of the Tichy sets, and
they certainly conform to rivets, etc. with Solvaset.

Tony Thompson







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Fred Jansz
 

Group, beware! Tried several Tichy decal sets with all kinds of available softeners, even pure Methoxy-Propanol. Nothing worked, paint is thick as s**t and will hide all details, including board lines. Had to discard a 30 hours built resin model because of the fact the decals wouldn't come off anymore! Two plastic (IM) PFE models were days in brake fluid to remove paint & decals, but decal lettering was still on after that... tossed them away. Complained with Tichy and showed picture proof, no reply. Just my real life experience. Hope Tichy solves this problem soon in the meantime I won't buy them anymore.
best regards,
Fred Jansz


Pierre Oliver
 

Ask Don Tichy which is which?

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 10/31/17 3:10 PM, BRIAN PAUL EHNI bpehni@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

How are we to know the difference?

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

From: STMFC List on behalf of STMFC List
Reply-To: STMFC List
Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2017 at 2:04 PM
To: STMFC List
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy decals (was RE: Decal Adhesive)

Okay,

Let's try and clear some of this up.
The decals that were offered by Gerry Glow, all suffered from the same issue. The actual printed component of the decal was impervious to setting solutions and paint removers.
If you were applying to a simple steel side with no rivets, you'd be fine. Over any protrusion and you'd have an issue.
Don Tichy acquired all of Gerry's artwork and seems to have used to same print process for those same decals.
Tichy has offered and continues to offer decals that were/are printed in a more conventional manner and they behave as we would expect.
As in all things caveat emptor
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 10/31/17 2:46 PM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] wrote:

Tony,

That was my experience too with sets from Jerry Glow. But several people,
highly experienced and talented modelers, said they had real problems - So
maybe there was a bad batch, or a change of printers?

Tim O'Connor

Tim O'Connor wrote:

The WORD from several people at the Lisle RPM (Naperville) meet is that
TICHY decals are resistant to decal softeners and do NOT conform to model
rivets or weld seams or anything else.

Not sure why people are saying this. I have used several of the Tichy sets, and
they certainly conform to rivets, etc. with Solvaset.

Tony Thompson





A&Y Dave in MD
 

Don told me at Timonium that it is an Epson printer marketed to sign makers with the one pass print head modified for decals. Not sure what modification was made.

It could be the resolution is fine but the ink is thicker or less pliable than ALPS particles or laser toner or silk-screened ink.

I have not had a chance to use them, but I have all-white lettering decals from them to test.

I really hope they will work well enough I can custom order the 8.5x11 sheet of A&Y decals I designed.  I cannot get dulux gold to come out nice enough for my satisfaction on my laser printer to print my own, sigh.

Sent from Dave Bott' iPhone

On Oct 31, 2017, at 2:46 PM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 


Tony,

That was my experience too with sets from Jerry Glow. But several people,
highly experienced and talented modelers, said they had real problems - So
maybe there was a bad batch, or a change of printers?

Tim O'Connor





Tim O'Connor wrote:

The WORD from several people at the Lisle RPM (Naperville) meet is that
TICHY decals are resistant to decal softeners and do NOT conform to model
rivets or weld seams or anything else.

Not sure why people are saying this. I have used several of the Tichy sets, and
they certainly conform to rivets, etc. with Solvaset.

Tony Thompson 


A&Y Dave in MD
 

Cartograf is excellent but pricey due to minimum order size. Their yellows cannot be beat for quality though.

Sent from Dave Bott' iPhone

On Oct 31, 2017, at 2:56 PM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Steve

How that could POSSIBLY help them settle down and conform to surfaces is a total mystery to my imagination!

I still have some CHAMP decal solution. And TAMIYA makes some extra strength decal solution. I will try those
two methods. Sanding and DIO-SOL will be a last resort. If none of that works, then into the trash they go!

What a shame. Ted Culotta and others mentioned an excellent printer - CARTOGRAPH - based in Italy. This is
where Ted is printing his decals, and if I ever create some artwork, that's where I will go too.

http://www.cartograf.com/

Tim O'Connor




FWIW, here is a copy of the paragraph sent to the Tichy email group back in August as part of a broader announcement of new products.
 
Due to the problems some of you are having with adhesion of logos and other large decal areas, we are changing our recommended application procedure. Float the decal off the backing paper and blot dry with a paper towel. Use a Q-Tip to apply a thin coat of Elmer's clear glue to the back side. Position the decal with tweezers and press in place with a piece of stiff flexible foam (foam from a brass model box works great). Let dry overnight and over spray with clear lacquer (glosscote or dullcote).
 
Steve Hile


Benjamin Scanlon
 

I have some of the Glow decals in TT which I'm now reluctant to use.  Bought them about a year before he ceased trading. 

I do not know if there's any way of identifying particular sets that have problems. 



Has anyone experimented with printed paper sides for boxcars or other stock?

Pluses would seem  to be lack of decal film and scale is largely irrelevant provided the artwork can be printed satisfactorily. 

Can see it being more use on cars with flat steel sides where rivets or weld lines are embossed from underneath.  (With careful positioning.) 

Downsides I experienced are that while you can laminate paper to styrene, you have to be  careful what you use to do it, as some inks don't like the solvent much and bleed. 

Be interested to hear any ideas tho, as this used to be fairly common practice a long time ago.  

I've seen some Australian models from the 'pre-decal era' which looked really good forty years later. 

Ben Scanlon