Masking over Archer rivets


Tom Madden
 

On the model RR section of trainorders.com someone asked about masking over Archer rivets. The overwhelming consensus was: don't. Any tape, if pressed down well enough so there's no paint bleed under the edges, will want to pull the Archers off when removed.

But Javier Cervantes posted the following intriguing technique:
"Mask with wet white paper then let dry. Spray then remove the white paper mask. When you cut the paper ensure you have a steady hand for straight lines."

Anyone tried this, or even heard about it? Seems an interesting way to mask over irregular surfaces.

Tom Madden


al_brown03
 

In general I find Archers are fragile until I gloss-coat or paint over them, but will stand up to handling afterward. I'm about to paint a car with lots of Archers (photos posted in the Shake & Take group); they've been gloss-coated, but the car will need masking. I'll report on the results.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


al_brown03
 

Forgot to say: I plan to mask and spray late this week, maybe Thursday to Saturday.


Tim O'Connor
 


I have not heard of using wet white paper, but I do have a roll of very weak
adhesive paper from 3M - essentially a roll of Post-It note paper. I use it when
the surface is not too irregular (i.e. a flat surface).

Has anyone tried brushing Microscale liquid decal film over Archer rivets? I
wonder if it would help hold them in place securely while painting.

Tim O'Connor



On the model RR section of trainorders.com someone asked about masking over Archer rivets. The overwhelming consensus was: don't. Any tape, if pressed down well enough so there's no paint bleed under the edges, will want to pull the Archers off when removed.

But Javier Cervantes posted the following intriguing technique:
"Mask with wet white paper then let dry. Spray then remove the white paper mask. When you cut the paper ensure you have a steady hand for straight lines."

Anyone tried this, or even heard about it? Seems an interesting way to mask over irregular surfaces.

Tom Madden


Craig Zeni
 

On Jul 23, 2018, at 1:56 AM, main@RealSTMFC.groups.io wrote:

4d. Re: Masking over Archer rivets
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2018 18:36:05 EDT

I have not heard of using wet white paper, but I do have a roll of very weak
adhesive paper from 3M - essentially a roll of Post-It note paper. I use it when
the surface is not too irregular (i.e. a flat surface).

Has anyone tried brushing Microscale liquid decal film over Archer rivets? I
wonder if it would help hold them in place securely while painting.
Using Tamiya's masking tape I have masked over Archers but I airbrushed glosscoat over them first. I also applied the Archers over a painted surface, not directly to unpainted plastic.


Craig Zeni
Cary NC


al_brown03
 

Painted a week later than planned. Encouraged by Craig's result, I applied Archers to bare plastic, gloss-coated over them, painted over the gloss-coat. The paint was Scalecoat II; I let it cure for a week. Masked over the paint with Tamiya tape, and painted a second color. Unmasked, and the Archers were A-O-K; they were under the tape about three hours. 

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 


Hi Al,
 
Thanks for the info on this useful result. I appreciate the level of detail you put into your message, this allows me to know the specific process that is proven to work.
 
Claus Schlund
 

----- Original Message -----
From: al_brown03
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2018 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Masking over Archer rivets

Painted a week later than planned. Encouraged by Craig's result, I applied Archers to bare plastic, gloss-coated over them, painted over the gloss-coat. The paint was Scalecoat II; I let it cure for a week. Masked over the paint with Tamiya tape, and painted a second color. Unmasked, and the Archers were A-O-K; they were under the tape about three hours. 

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


StephenK
 

I have used another method for masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask.   I use dishwashing liquid (the kind for the sink, not the machine).   This assumes a non-wood model.   Paint a layer of liquid over the area and let dry.  I usually put 2-3 coats on.   Paint, then wash off after the paint dries.   Note that I have never used this on Archer Rivets.   (I have never used Archer rivets....).  It's worth a try on a sample piece of plastic.

Steve Kay


O Fenton Wells
 

I have another tale about Archer rivets.  I added them to a boxcar.  First I sprayed the car with clear gloss.  Applied the rivets and it was a problem because the gloss hadn't dried completely.  But I was in a hurry and kept going.  After a week I started to proceed with more detailing of the car and noticed that the gloss had still not dried and I was leaving my fingerprints all over the sides.  WOWZER not good.  So I decided to strip it with Scale Coat stripper.  I have plenty of Archer rivets so I figured they would go with the stripper. I don't immerse, I lay the car on news print and paint the stripper to one side.  Let it sit then use a tooth brush and wash the paint off at the deep sink.   I use less stripper that way and it works just as well.  On some applications I have to do it 2 or 3 times a side.  
After I got the clear gloss off, the Archer Rivets were still there....who knew.
Not saying this would work every time but it did this time.
Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 3:17 PM, StephenK <thekays100@...> wrote:
I have used another method for masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask.   I use dishwashing liquid (the kind for the sink, not the machine).   This assumes a non-wood model.   Paint a layer of liquid over the area and let dry.  I usually put 2-3 coats on.   Paint, then wash off after the paint dries.   Note that I have never used this on Archer Rivets.   (I have never used Archer rivets....).  It's worth a try on a sample piece of plastic.

Steve Kay




--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


James E Kubanick
 

My experience is identical to that which Al Brown describes. I use Scalcoat and Tamiya tape, also.

Jim Kubanick
Morgantown WV


On Monday, August 6, 2018 3:27 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:


I have another tale about Archer rivets.  I added them to a boxcar.  First I sprayed the car with clear gloss.  Applied the rivets and it was a problem because the gloss hadn't dried completely.  But I was in a hurry and kept going.  After a week I started to proceed with more detailing of the car and noticed that the gloss had still not dried and I was leaving my fingerprints all over the sides.  WOWZER not good.  So I decided to strip it with Scale Coat stripper.  I have plenty of Archer rivets so I figured they would go with the stripper. I don't immerse, I lay the car on news print and paint the stripper to one side.  Let it sit then use a tooth brush and wash the paint off at the deep sink.   I use less stripper that way and it works just as well.  On some applications I have to do it 2 or 3 times a side.  
After I got the clear gloss off, the Archer Rivets were still there....who knew.
Not saying this would work every time but it did this time.
Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 3:17 PM, StephenK <thekays100@...> wrote:
I have used another method for masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask.   I use dishwashing liquid (the kind for the sink, not the machine).   This assumes a non-wood model.   Paint a layer of liquid over the area and let dry.  I usually put 2-3 coats on.   Paint, then wash off after the paint dries.   Note that I have never used this on Archer Rivets.   (I have never used Archer rivets....).  It's worth a try on a sample piece of plastic.

Steve Kay



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...



Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 8/6/2018 12:17 PM, StephenK wrote:
masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask.   I use dishwashing liquid

    There is a product called "removable water-based resist" (by Jacquard).  I bought a bottle but haven't used it yet.  Do you have any experience with it?

-- 
Jon Miller
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