Two New Kadee Running Boards Announced


Ed Hawkins
 

STMFC members,
The Kadee web site is now showing two new running boards for 40’-6” box cars. Both are available in 4 colors. Samples were shown last month at the St. Louis Area RPM.

U.S. Gypsum expanded metal (used from early 1940s to 1954)
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page2015-2018.htm

Morton (used from early 1940s through 1950s)
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page2005-2008.htm

For those who have not yet installed a Kadee running board to their PS-1 roof, something to be aware of is that the Kadee’s running board is “directional.” The running board has 6 notched mounting pins, equally spaced along the longitudinal center line under the running board surface, which are in turn inserted into corresponding precision-cut holes in the roof. The notches must face the right side of the car for the pins to be oriented properly so that they will lock into place. To complete the assembly, the latitudinals each have an additional pin to insert into diagonally-opposite roof holes above the side ladders, and the end supports are inserted into two holes.

The process is simple as long as the notches are properly oriented. If turned 180 degrees, it might cause head scratching and the question “why isn’t this working?” 

For those wondering, Sam Clarke of Kadee advised me that U.S. Gypsum & Morton brake steps are currently in work & a decision will be made at later date regarding availability for separate sale.

Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Bill Welch
 

Saw these at the Collinsville RPM last month. I just wish some entrepreneur would calculate/create a drilling template to make it easy to adapt Red Caboose/IMWX. Intermountain, Branchline/Atlas, etc. roofs to use these.

Bill Welch


Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Friends,

The Kadee people told me these were coming several months ago. I've been after Sam to do the Morton RB for years. Nearly all WP PS-1s used Morton. I'm going to order immediately.

Now all we need is the corresponding 50' version. Please, Sam!

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

On 8/24/18 11:13 AM, Ed Hawkins wrote:
STMFC members,
The Kadee web site is now showing two new running boards for 40’-6” box cars. Both are available in 4 colors. Samples were shown last month at the St. Louis Area RPM.

U.S. Gypsum expanded metal (used from early 1940s to 1954)
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page2015-2018.htm

Morton (used from early 1940s through 1950s)
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page2005-2008.htm

For those who have not yet installed a Kadee running board to their PS-1 roof, something to be aware of is that the Kadee’s running board is “directional.” The running board has 6 notched mounting pins, equally spaced along the longitudinal center line under the running board surface, which are in turn inserted into corresponding precision-cut holes in the roof. The notches must face the right side of the car for the pins to be oriented properly so that they will lock into place. To complete the assembly, the latitudinals each have an additional pin to insert into diagonally-opposite roof holes above the side ladders, and the end supports are inserted into two holes.

The process is simple as long as the notches are properly oriented. If turned 180 degrees, it might cause head scratching and the question “why isn’t this working?” 

For those wondering, Sam Clarke of Kadee advised me that U.S. Gypsum & Morton brake steps are currently in work & a decision will be made at later date regarding availability for separate sale.

Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Lester Breuer
 

Bill I do no drilling.  I cut the pins off and mount/glue directly to car running board saddles.   I find this method works best for me.  I have had no problems with running boards applied this way coming  loose on cars running on an operating railroad.

Lester Breuer 


O Fenton Wells
 

Lester, What do you use for glue,

On 8/24/18, Lester Breuer <rforailroad@comcast.net> wrote:
Bill I do no drilling.  I cut the pins off and mount/glue directly to car
running board saddles.   I find this method works best for me.  I have had
no problems with running boards applied this way coming  loose on cars
running on an operating railroad.

Lester Breuer



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@gmail.com


Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Friends,

I've used Kadee running boards for a number of upgraded Front Range and C&BT Shops cars. I carefully measure the spacing between the pegs and drill small holes in the car roof on the center line. Then I enlarge any that are off until the board sits without waves. For glue I usually use clear silicone caulk applied inside the car to the peg. This stuff never turns loose.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

On 8/24/18 5:20 PM, O Fenton Wells wrote:
Lester, What do you use for glue,

On 8/24/18, Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote:
Bill I do no drilling.  I cut the pins off and mount/glue directly to car
running board saddles.   I find this method works best for me.  I have had
no problems with running boards applied this way coming  loose on cars
running on an operating railroad.

Lester Breuer







Ed Hawkins
 


On Aug 24, 2018, at 11:17 AM, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:

Saw these at the Collinsville RPM last month. I just wish some entrepreneur would calculate/create a drilling template to make it easy to adapt Red Caboose/IMWX. Intermountain, Branchline/Atlas, etc. roofs to use these.

Bill,
I have successfully installed Kadee running boards on Branchline Trains box car roofs. It’s pretty easy - on the underneath side of the BT roof are 6 small dimples located perfectly for spotting the holes to be drilled. I use a drill size slightly larger than the Kadee pins so that they have some freedom to move a slight amount and to be straight from end to end. I found this a necessary step as I could never duplicate the precision holes in the Kadee PS-1 roof and the locking method. 

I developed a simple jig to locate the holes for the pins under the latitudinals. Once the running board is installed to the roof, I affix the pins permanently with Barge cement from the underside to keep them in place. I made another template to locate the two holes for the end supports at the top of the ends. Once installed they were perfectly straight, and years later they’re still straight. 

Roofs not having the starter dimples will require a template to position the holes, which can be devised by using a BT roof for the locations.

Lester’s method that doesn’t require drilling holes works well for him, and I might give his method a try especially for roofs other than BT. 
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


gtws00
 

Lester, what type of glue do you use?
George Toman


Bill Welch
 

Lester I prefer mechanical attachments for these.

Bill Welch


Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
 

Lester Breuer responds to an expressed need for a Kadee running board drilling template:

 ….I do no drilling.  I cut the pins off and mount/glue directly to car running board saddles.

Lester has it just right.  Tiny dabs of resilient Barge cement on the running board saddles does it, and does it forever.  I clip off the index pins on the angle end supports as well, just letting these very hardy pieces to just rest against the car end.

Now, if Kadee would only produce wood varieties!

Denny

  
Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA


Tony Thompson
 

Canopy glue, no holes!
Tony Thompson

On Aug 24, 2018, at 3:20 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@gmail.com> wrote:

Lester, What do you use for glue,

On 8/24/18, Lester Breuer <rforailroad@comcast.net> wrote:
Bill I do no drilling. I cut the pins off and mount/glue directly to car
running board saddles. I find this method works best for me. I have had
no problems with running boards applied this way coming loose on cars
running on an operating railroad.

Lester Breuer




--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@gmail.com



Clark Propst
 

I use a dot of canopy glue to hold the Kadee or metal RBs in place.
Clark Propst 


Lester Breuer
 

I was asked  by Fenton and George regarding what type of glue I use for attaching Kadee running boards to roof saddles after cutting off pins.  

I use two types:   Barge All Purpose Cement ( yes blue tube) or Formula ‘560’.

Both have proved  very reliable for cars being handled in ops sessions on an operating railroad.
Lester Breuer


Lester Breuer
 

I should have stated that Formula 560 is a brand name of canopy glue.
Lester Breuer


Ken Adams
 

Outstanding. With the new running boards I should be able to model a Westerfield B-50-15 as one of the 1950 Sac Shops rebuilds.


O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks Lester.  I'll try that as I have had mixed results with canopy glue.
Fenton

On Sat, Aug 25, 2018 at 3:48 PM Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote:
I was asked  by Fenton and George regarding what type of glue I use for attaching Kadee running boards to roof saddles after cutting off pins.  

I use two types:   Barge All Purpose Cement ( yes blue tube) or Formula ‘560’.

Both have proved  very reliable for cars being handled in ops sessions on an operating railroad.
Lester Breuer



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
 

The big problem with Canopy Glue, or KristalKlear (the same thing AFIK) is that they are -ultimately- not strong cements, and they are at their very weakest adhering to smooth impervious metal/plastic surfaces. That said, their flexible resilience, shear strength greater that ACC (which has none), ease of cleanup, reasonable working time, and transparency makes them thoroughly attractive, and they remain for me a front line product (I am using KK almost exclusively on a current car-kit project filling my bench).

However, ancient Barge cement has a sheer strength many orders of magnitude even greater, and in this respect (and others) I use tiny, tiny drops of Barge Cement on the Kadee, Plano and other running boards in an effort to defeat the usual foes: mechanical dislodging/breakage, temperature extremes, and the inherent difficulties in making any cement adhere to engineering plastics. It works superbly for the first two, and far better than most others (including epoxy) for the last It is an excellent cement to tack into place parts temporarily even if other cements, i.e. ACC or KK are to be used for final closure. It is truly tough stuff.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA
to


Tim O'Connor
 

prototype for comparison