Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint


Bill Welch
 

Although I have been collecting photos of these Georgia cars for years it was the acquisition of a 1956 Jack Parker photo of #19733 with a good shot of their welded roof that gave me the confidence to build a new model to replace a much earlier build. I recently finished painting my Georgia USRA 50-ton Steel rebuild. Recently I finished painting it and have now applied the decals. I was not pleased with any of the Acrylic Aluminum paints I experimented with but despite its grainy look I liked the dull look of what you see here. I painted the black first and then mask it for the Aluminum. It seems like no matter the masking job I do, some of those pesky metallic granules sneak under the mask so then I mask the Aluminum and spayed more black. Next I attached the Speedwitch doors, door guides and the scratch built ladders I had already painted. The aluminum and black effectively hide the many harvested rivets required to properly model these cars but hopefully weathering will eventually bring them back.

Speedwitch has decals specifically for this car but I had to also use their Atlanta & West Point/Western Railway of Alabama set because the Georgia set does not have the “XM” nor does it have the numeral “7” or enough of “3’s” to do car #19733. I have several photos of these cars in this scheme and some seem to show black “paint outs” while in others these appear to be boxcar red. I decided to do one side with black and the other with BCR. There was also some variation for the “XM’ stenciling location so I did it differently on each side. After the flat coat is applied I will install black Kadee bracket grabs that have been dulled by media blasting. The last item to go on will be the scratch-built black Wood running board. Before installation I will sand it lightly and carefully to chip or wear some of the black paint from it.

If you are curious you can search “georgia usra rebuild” to see photos under construction and in primer.


Bill Welch


Bill Vaughn
 

Yes Bill a good paint for silver is needed.

Bill Vaughn


WILLIAM PARDIE
 

Bill:

I little trick that I learned years ago is to shoot at clear coat over the model after  masking.  When dry shoot the second color.
This really seals the edge of the tape and provides a very crisp edge.

Bill Pardie



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Bill Welch <fgexbill@...>
Date: 10/8/18 6:11 AM (GMT-10:00)
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint

Although I have been collecting photos of these Georgia cars for years it was the acquisition of a 1956 Jack Parker photo of #19733 with a good shot of their welded roof that gave me the confidence to build a new model to replace a much earlier build. I recently finished painting my Georgia USRA 50-ton Steel rebuild. Recently I finished painting it and have now applied the decals. I was not pleased with any of the Acrylic Aluminum paints I experimented with but despite its grainy look I liked the dull look of what you see here. I painted the black first and then mask it for the Aluminum. It seems like no matter the masking job I do, some of those pesky metallic granules sneak under the mask so then I mask the Aluminum and spayed more black. Next I attached the Speedwitch doors, door guides and the scratch built ladders I had already painted. The aluminum and black effectively hide the many harvested rivets required to properly model these cars but hopefully weathering will eventually bring them back.

Speedwitch has decals specifically for this car but I had to also use their Atlanta & West Point/Western Railway of Alabama set because the Georgia set does not have the “XM” nor does it have the numeral “7” or enough of “3’s” to do car #19733. I have several photos of these cars in this scheme and some seem to show black “paint outs” while in others these appear to be boxcar red. I decided to do one side with black and the other with BCR. There was also some variation for the “XM’ stenciling location so I did it differently on each side. After the flat coat is applied I will install black Kadee bracket grabs that have been dulled by media blasting. The last item to go on will be the scratch-built black Wood running board. Before installation I will sand it lightly and carefully to chip or wear some of the black paint from it.

If you are curious you can search “georgia usra rebuild” to see photos under construction and in primer.


Bill Welch


Tim O'Connor
 

Bill

Duh, it never occured to me to use clear coat - instead I always sprayed the
edge of the tape with the color being protected! But clear makes more sense!

Tim


I little trick that I learned years ago is to shoot at clear coat over the model after  masking.  When dry shoot the second color. This really seals the edge of the tape and provides a very crisp edge.

Bill Pardie

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Peter Ness
 

Bill,

 

I don’t know there is a good Aluminum paint out there, but that’s a great looking model!  Thank you for sharing the photos, and I like the concept of changing the paint-outs on both sides.

 

Peter Ness  

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Bill Welch
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 12:11 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint

 

Although I have been collecting photos of these Georgia cars for years it was the acquisition of a 1956 Jack Parker photo of #19733 with a good shot of their welded roof that gave me the confidence to build a new model to replace a much earlier build. I recently finished painting my Georgia USRA 50-ton Steel rebuild. Recently I finished painting it and have now applied the decals. I was not pleased with any of the Acrylic Aluminum paints I experimented with but despite its grainy look I liked the dull look of what you see here. I painted the black first and then mask it for the Aluminum. It seems like no matter the masking job I do, some of those pesky metallic granules sneak under the mask so then I mask the Aluminum and spayed more black. Next I attached the Speedwitch doors, door guides and the scratch built ladders I had already painted. The aluminum and black effectively hide the many harvested rivets required to properly model these cars but hopefully weathering will eventually bring them back.

Speedwitch has decals specifically for this car but I had to also use their Atlanta & West Point/Western Railway of Alabama set because the Georgia set does not have the “XM” nor does it have the numeral “7” or enough of “3’s” to do car #19733. I have several photos of these cars in this scheme and some seem to show black “paint outs” while in others these appear to be boxcar red. I decided to do one side with black and the other with BCR. There was also some variation for the “XM’ stenciling location so I did it differently on each side. After the flat coat is applied I will install black Kadee bracket grabs that have been dulled by media blasting. The last item to go on will be the scratch-built black Wood running board. Before installation I will sand it lightly and carefully to chip or wear some of the black paint from it.

If you are curious you can search “georgia usra rebuild” to see photos under construction and in primer.


Bill Welch


Tim O'Connor
 

Accupaint made both ALUMINUM, and ARTIFICIAL ALUMINUM - both excellent colors.
I think they are still offered by TRUCOLOR. (The "artificial" color is what you
see on UPS trailers, and older non-stainless steel Amtrak passenger cars, and
many SP ex-Daylight passenger cars.)

Tim O'

I don't know there is a good Aluminum paint out there
Peter Ness
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Ken Roth
 

Scalecoat silver with a bit of gray or white works well for me.  OR, if you still have any, the very best is Floquil Platinum Mist.  No grain problem with these.  Ken Roth