Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question


Alexander Schneider Jr
 

I received mine, and I have a question about the K brake system. I don’t see any connection between the lever on the “A” end and the rest of the system. My 1928 Car Builders Cyclopedia shows a connecting rod between the two levers. I can’t imagine it would be between the underframe channels. Any ideas?

 

Alex Schneider

 

,_


Dennis Storzek
 

Alex,

I haven't gotten the chance to see the new Rapido car, but the foundation brake rigging diagram you directed us to is for passenger cars. Few freightcars used brake cylinders with an attachment point for the brake lever on the cylinder head; this attachment was normally to the frame towards the A end of the car. Does this help?

Dennis Storzek


brianleppert@att.net
 

On my model the connecting rod is between the center sills (underframe channels).

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV


Eric Hansmann
 

Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.

 

In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.

 

- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix.

- The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is.

- The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles.

- The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler.

- The wheels will need to be painted.

 

 

I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alexander Schneider Jr
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 11:26 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

I received mine, and I have a question about the K brake system. I don’t see any connection between the lever on the “A” end and the rest of the system. My 1928 Car Builders Cyclopedia shows a connecting rod between the two levers. I can’t imagine it would be between the underframe channels. Any ideas?

 

Alex Schneider

 

,_


Ralph W. Brown
 

Hi Eric,
 
I too bought a four-pack of the pre-war cars, only one of which I have yet to remove from its box.  I agree they are amazing.
 
Do you have any particular source of decals in mind for changing the reweigh date?
 
The air reservoir stencil on the car I examined, incidentally, is right side up.  Yes, I had to read it with a strong magnifying glass!
 
Although I plan to use these cars in a 1920s era setting, I haven’t decided yet whether to remove the upper-most grab on the left end.  Rapido may have made only one basic version of the car, but the pre-war cars do have K, rather than AB, brakes.
 
Regarding the sheathing, do I understand correctly that you intend to replicate the center-bead board siding?  If so, I’d be very interested in how you’re planning to do that.
 
All things considered, I think these cars are a great addition to the roster.
 
Pax,
 
 
Ralph Brown
Portland, Maine
PRRT&HS No. 3966
NMRA No. L2532

rbrown51[at]maine[dot]rr[dot]com
 

From: Eric Hansmann
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2018 12:25 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
 

Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.

 

In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.

 

- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix.

- The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is.

- The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles.

- The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler.

- The wheels will need to be painted.

 

 

I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN


Eric Hansmann
 

Ralph,

 

I do not intend to try replicating the center bead sheathing.

 

As for other weigh date decals, I used this Black Cat set on a Yarmouth boxcar and need to check if there are extra dates on the remaining sheet.

http://www.blackcatdecals.com/product/np14689-northern-pacific-pre-ww2-boxcars-single-double-sheath/

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Ralph W. Brown
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2018 12:45 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

Hi Eric,

 

I too bought a four-pack of the pre-war cars, only one of which I have yet to remove from its box.  I agree they are amazing.

 

Do you have any particular source of decals in mind for changing the reweigh date?

 

The air reservoir stencil on the car I examined, incidentally, is right side up.  Yes, I had to read it with a strong magnifying glass!

 

Although I plan to use these cars in a 1920s era setting, I haven’t decided yet whether to remove the upper-most grab on the left end.  Rapido may have made only one basic version of the car, but the pre-war cars do have K, rather than AB, brakes.

 

Regarding the sheathing, do I understand correctly that you intend to replicate the center-bead board siding?  If so, I’d be very interested in how you’re planning to do that.

 

All things considered, I think these cars are a great addition to the roster.

 

Pax,

 

 

Ralph Brown
Portland, Maine
PRRT&HS No. 3966
NMRA No. L2532

rbrown51[at]maine[dot]rr[dot]com

 

From: Eric Hansmann

Sent: Friday, October 26, 2018 12:25 PM

To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.

 

In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.

 

- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix.

- The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is.

- The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles.

- The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler.

- The wheels will need to be painted.

 

 

I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN


np328
 

   Alex,
      I just looked at one of the blueprints of the underframe that I submitted to Rapido years ago when this car was still "a proposal".
Brian is right, there is a connecting rod between the center sill member on the original as built drawing.                                                                Jim Dick - St. Paul MN


Alexander Schneider Jr
 

Thanks to all who responded. ThE discussion has been very informative.

Alex Schneider 


On Sun, Oct 28, 2018 at 2:10 AM, np328
<jcdworkingonthenp@...> wrote:
   Alex,
      I just looked at one of the blueprints of the underframe that I submitted to Rapido years ago when this car was still "a proposal".
Brian is right, there is a connecting rod between the center sill member on the original as built drawing.                                                                Jim Dick - St. Paul MN


Dennis Storzek
 

Jim,

I haven't seen the model, and so am not entirely familiar with which series of cars it portrays, but this is a steel underframe car with straight sills, right? If so, the brake levers are normally supported on carriers below the sills, so how can the connecting rod be between them? do you mean below the sills on the car center line, perchance?

Dennis Storzek


brianleppert@att.net
 

Dennis,

The car has fish belly center sills.

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV.


Dennis Storzek
 

On Sun, Oct 28, 2018 at 08:54 AM, brianleppert@... wrote:
The car has fish belly center sills.
Ah, that answers that question. The levers run through slots in the sills with the connecting rod between the sills.

Dennis Storzek


Matt Goodman
 

I just picked up my pre-war model a couple of days ago. I'll paint the wheels and truck side frames, and probably replace the couplers with #58s. As Eric mentioned, the existing couplers are metal Kadee #5 replicas, with metal knuckle springs. While I'm mildly disappointed that Rapido chose to use these instead of the path Tangent has taken, I did appreciate the rust color (which included the "air" hose).

I had to do some tuning to the truck mounting. One truck would rock toward one side of the car body, but not the other; the other truck would rock toward toward the car center, but not toward the coupler.

The root cause was twofold. The first issue was with the mounting screws themselves - which were poorly formed. The screw head and washer are a single part, but the washer is not concentric with the head - think of a cam lobe. I fiddled with the location of the lobe until I found a location that allowed the truck to rock equally in most directions.

The second issue was one of the screws was driven in crooked.  The fiddling described above also mitigated this issue.

Although both were easily overcome, these two quality issues were disappointing given the cost of the model. The screw shape issue especially seems like it would be easy to fix - better screws!


Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio


On Friday, October 26, 2018, 12:25:16 PM EDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:


Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.

 

In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.

 

- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix.

- The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is.

- The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles.

- The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler.

- The wheels will need to be painted.

 

 

I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io ] On Behalf Of Alexander Schneider Jr
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 11:26 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

I received mine, and I have a question about the K brake system. I don’t see any connection between the lever on the “A” end and the rest of the system. My 1928 Car Builders Cyclopedia shows a connecting rod between the two levers. I can’t imagine it would be between the underframe channels. Any ideas?

 

Alex Schneider

 

,_


Tony Thompson
 

Matt Goodman wrote:

I just picked up my pre-war model a couple of days ago. I'll paint the wheels and truck side frames, and probably replace the couplers with #58s. As Eric mentioned, the existing couplers are metal Kadee #5 replicas, with metal knuckle springs. While I'm mildly disappointed that Rapido chose to use these instead of the path Tangent has taken, I did appreciate the rust color (which included the "air" hose).

    Full agreement. The "rust" color of the couplers is too light anyway.

I had to do some tuning to the truck mounting. One truck would rock toward one side of the car body, but not the other; the other truck would rock toward toward the car center, but not toward the coupler.

      I checked my model carefully after reading this, and found no such problem on mine. I pulled out the screws and they look fine.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Steve SANDIFER
 

I also replaced the coupler. The Kadee copy used the old style Kadee spring and mine would not center dependably. I put whisker couplers in and that problem was solved. I also painted the wheels first thing – why don’t Mfg. blacken wheelsets? I had none of the problems you describe with trucks or truck screws.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Matt Goodman via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2018 11:51 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

I just picked up my pre-war model a couple of days ago. I'll paint the wheels and truck side frames, and probably replace the couplers with #58s. As Eric mentioned, the existing couplers are metal Kadee #5 replicas, with metal knuckle springs. While I'm mildly disappointed that Rapido chose to use these instead of the path Tangent has taken, I did appreciate the rust color (which included the "air" hose).

 

I had to do some tuning to the truck mounting. One truck would rock toward one side of the car body, but not the other; the other truck would rock toward toward the car center, but not toward the coupler.

 

The root cause was twofold. The first issue was with the mounting screws themselves - which were poorly formed. The screw head and washer are a single part, but the washer is not concentric with the head - think of a cam lobe. I fiddled with the location of the lobe until I found a location that allowed the truck to rock equally in most directions.

 

The second issue was one of the screws was driven in crooked.  The fiddling described above also mitigated this issue.

 

Although both were easily overcome, these two quality issues were disappointing given the cost of the model. The screw shape issue especially seems like it would be easy to fix - better screws!

 

 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

 

 

On Friday, October 26, 2018, 12:25:16 PM EDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:

 

 

Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.

 

In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.

 

- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix.

- The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is.

- The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles.

- The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler.

- The wheels will need to be painted.

 

 

I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io ] On Behalf Of Alexander Schneider Jr
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 11:26 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

I received mine, and I have a question about the K brake system. I don’t see any connection between the lever on the “A” end and the rest of the system. My 1928 Car Builders Cyclopedia shows a connecting rod between the two levers. I can’t imagine it would be between the underframe channels. Any ideas?

 

Alex Schneider

 

,_


Eric Hansmann
 

Yesterday I took a closer look at the Pre-War version and noticed the running board end supports need attention. These details are crammed into place on the model and the angle of the support is lost. A builder image of the car reveals a longer support board under the ends of the running board than what is typically seen. I think the model detail is a bit to long and the support angle is minimized. I hope a little adjustment will make this better.

I have yet to remove the trucks or couplers for upgrades.


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN



On November 1, 2018 at 9:46 PM James SANDIFER <steve.sandifer@...> wrote:

I also replaced the coupler. The Kadee copy used the old style Kadee spring and mine would not center dependably. I put whisker couplers in and that problem was solved. I also painted the wheels first thing – why don’t Mfg. blacken wheelsets? I had none of the problems you describe with trucks or truck screws.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Matt Goodman via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2018 11:51 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

I just picked up my pre-war model a couple of days ago. I'll paint the wheels and truck side frames, and probably replace the couplers with #58s. As Eric mentioned, the existing couplers are metal Kadee #5 replicas, with metal knuckle springs. While I'm mildly disappointed that Rapido chose to use these instead of the path Tangent has taken, I did appreciate the rust color (which included the "air" hose).

 

I had to do some tuning to the truck mounting. One truck would rock toward one side of the car body, but not the other; the other truck would rock toward toward the car center, but not toward the coupler.

 

The root cause was twofold. The first issue was with the mounting screws themselves - which were poorly formed. The screw head and washer are a single part, but the washer is not concentric with the head - think of a cam lobe. I fiddled with the location of the lobe until I found a location that allowed the truck to rock equally in most directions.

 

The second issue was one of the screws was driven in crooked.  The fiddling described above also mitigated this issue.

 

Although both were easily overcome, these two quality issues were disappointing given the cost of the model. The screw shape issue especially seems like it would be easy to fix - better screws!

 

 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

 

 

On Friday, October 26, 2018, 12:25:16 PM EDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:

 

 

Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.

 

In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.

 

- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix.

- The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is.

- The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles.

- The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler.

- The wheels will need to be painted.

 

 

I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io ] On Behalf Of Alexander Schneider Jr
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 11:26 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

I received mine, and I have a question about the K brake system. I don’t see any connection between the lever on the “A” end and the rest of the system. My 1928 Car Builders Cyclopedia shows a connecting rod between the two levers. I can’t imagine it would be between the underframe channels. Any ideas?

 

Alex Schneider

 

,_

 



 


 




Matt Goodman
 

Good to here that the screw forming and screw verticalness issues aren’t widespread. By way of a visual description to go along with the cam lobe references, see attached. 



Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

Sent from my mobile

On Nov 1, 2018, at 1:56 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

Matt Goodman wrote:

I just picked up my pre-war model a couple of days ago. I'll paint the wheels and truck side frames, and probably replace the couplers with #58s. As Eric mentioned, the existing couplers are metal Kadee #5 replicas, with metal knuckle springs. While I'm mildly disappointed that Rapido chose to use these instead of the path Tangent has taken, I did appreciate the rust color (which included the "air" hose).

    Full agreement. The "rust" color of the couplers is too light anyway.

I had to do some tuning to the truck mounting. One truck would rock toward one side of the car body, but not the other; the other truck would rock toward toward the car center, but not toward the coupler.

      I checked my model carefully after reading this, and found no such problem on mine. I pulled out the screws and they look fine.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 11/2/2018 7:00 AM, Matt Goodman via Groups.Io wrote:
Good to here that the screw forming and screw verticalness issues aren’t widespread.

    I have a black roof AB brake car and I would describe my truck screws as washer offset.  I don't think as bad as the picture but with 4x glasses it's offset.  Working on painting .088 wheelsets currently with other projects.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
SPROG User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


vapeurchapelon
 

Hello Stephen,
 
>> why don’t Mfg. blacken wheelsets? <<
 
Most if not all Mfg. actually do blacken their wheel sets - chemically. But if you are speaking of PAINTIING them (with black or a mix of rust, grime or whatever) this would make the car considerably more expensive as there would be several steps necessary to accomplish an accaptable result. Think of masking treads and axle ends and more difficult handling after painting.
 
Many greetings
 
Johannes
 
Gesendet: Freitag, 02. November 2018 um 04:46 Uhr
Von: "James SANDIFER" <steve.sandifer@...>
An: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Betreff: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

I also replaced the coupler. The Kadee copy used the old style Kadee spring and mine would not center dependably. I put whisker couplers in and that problem was solved. I also painted the wheels first thing – why don’t Mfg. blacken wheelsets? I had none of the problems you describe with trucks or truck screws.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Matt Goodman via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2018 11:51 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

I just picked up my pre-war model a couple of days ago. I'll paint the wheels and truck side frames, and probably replace the couplers with #58s. As Eric mentioned, the existing couplers are metal Kadee #5 replicas, with metal knuckle springs. While I'm mildly disappointed that Rapido chose to use these instead of the path Tangent has taken, I did appreciate the rust color (which included the "air" hose).

 

I had to do some tuning to the truck mounting. One truck would rock toward one side of the car body, but not the other; the other truck would rock toward toward the car center, but not toward the coupler.

 

The root cause was twofold. The first issue was with the mounting screws themselves - which were poorly formed. The screw head and washer are a single part, but the washer is not concentric with the head - think of a cam lobe. I fiddled with the location of the lobe until I found a location that allowed the truck to rock equally in most directions.

 

The second issue was one of the screws was driven in crooked.  The fiddling described above also mitigated this issue.

 

Although both were easily overcome, these two quality issues were disappointing given the cost of the model. The screw shape issue especially seems like it would be easy to fix - better screws!

 

 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

 

 

On Friday, October 26, 2018, 12:25:16 PM EDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:

 

 

Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.

 

In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.

 

- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix.

- The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is.

- The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles.

- The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler.

- The wheels will need to be painted.

 

 

I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io ] On Behalf Of Alexander Schneider Jr
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 11:26 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question

 

I received mine, and I have a question about the K brake system. I don’t see any connection between the lever on the “A” end and the rest of the system. My 1928 Car Builders Cyclopedia shows a connecting rod between the two levers. I can’t imagine it would be between the underframe channels. Any ideas?

 

Alex Schneider

 

,_

 


Kemal Mumcu
 

I'm not sure if this should be a separate thread or not but doesn't the Rapido NP boxcar sit a bit high on its trucks? If you compare photos of the prototypes with the model you might see what I mean. I don't yet have my hands on the model I bought to make a better observation I'm only going by pictures.

Colin Meikle


Todd Sullivan
 

Some of my 4 Rapido NP 10000-13999 series cars looked like they were riding a bit high, but then I carefully seated the trucks on their body-mounted 'king pins' and they looked a lot better.  I checked the Jan 1952 ORER, and the height to the top of the running board is 13'-8"; my cars measure 14'-0", about 4" taller.  Modifying the king pins does not look like it would be easy, so I can probably live with that for a while.

Todd Sullivan.